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      03-06-2017, 03:26 PM   #1
V.I.P.E.R
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DIY: F30 F31 Power Folding auto dimming & dipping mirrors

Hi guys,

I'm new at the forum and I drive a BMW F20 - yes the small one but electrically pretty much the same

DISCLAIMER:
As with all DIY projects, undertake this at your own risk. I am not responsible for anything that happens to you or your car!

I did the power folding auto dimming retrofit with dip function to my F20 - I want to share that with you - and by the way - sorry for my english, I'm not a native speaker.

Basis:
F20 118i 11/2011
normal heating mirrors
auto Timing back mirror

Needed Parts:
- 2 x Mirror with power folding functionality
- new switch for the mirror control with the folding button

Tools:
- shrink tubing
- soldering colt
- Torx screwdriver
- plastic tools for the door covers

Background:
The mirrors in the normal setup where directly connected to the switch on the driver side. So they are directly controlled. In the new setup they are Controlled via Lin BUS. These are basically the differences.
On the driver side, Lin Bus is already there - on the passenger side not ...

Opportunities ? Later more ...


Steps:
1. lower the Panel on both sides and put the mirror glas on both sides in the upset possible position.

2. disconnect battery

3.remove both door covers. (some torx screws, use a plastic tool to remove them safely). Dont kill the metal clips at the top!

4. remove both inner doof frames where the small speakers are located. The frames are also tightened with clips.

5.Remove the mirror glas with a plastic tool from the bottom. Lever it towards yourself slowly. Reattach the tool several times around the glas. Afterwards remove the mirror cover. It is tightened at three points inside the mirror with some kind of plastic clips. Four hands instead of two helped a lot here
Two hands try to loosen the clips, the other two should try to remove the cover.
Same for the other side.

6. Now it is possible to remove the mirrors. It is tightened with three torx screws (one is hided unter some rubber).
Loose the mirror connector plug first.

7. Mount the new mirrors in the same way you removed the old ones. Plug in the cable.

8.Now the mounting is finished. Driver side is plug and play, if you replace the switch ... Because Lin is already located there (you remember - I mentioned this before) But what is about the passenger side?

So I did some research in the Internet and in Rhinegold and I started to wondering what happened with the three cables which were used in the old "normal" variant? You are guessing right - nothing. So they will remain useless.

But - how many cables do we need for getting the passenger mirror working? - We will need three of them. Perfect - this sound ideal. One little problem is the cabel profile - it is not the same than in the original wire ring diagram. But from my point of view - this is not a big problem. Not much power running through it.

So - we are able to proceed:

9. Following steps are needed on the connector of S35 (at the passenger switch)
Pin 7,8,9 are the useless pins which where directly connected to the passenger mirror.
I've opened the connector and connected the following pins with the soldering bolt. ( you can do it how ever you prefer ... )

Pin 7 mit Pin 1 (ground)
Pin 8 mit Pin 2 (Lin Bus)
Pin 9 mit Pin 10 (power)



You can see the disconnected cables from pin 7,8,9 and the connected cables to the mentioned above pins.

10. Put everything together

11. Connect Battery

12. Code: Add 430 to FA and code FEM VO

Done

Thanks and feel free to ask if something is unclear.

best
Tim
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      03-06-2017, 03:47 PM   #2
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Can someone post part number for the new folding mirrors?
Great DIY btw. Thanks mate
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      03-07-2017, 12:42 AM   #3
V.I.P.E.R
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Thanks - the right mirror depends a lot on the exterior design and other options like surround view and so on.

Maybe you can take a look here:
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F3...side_mirror_2/
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      03-25-2017, 11:11 AM   #4
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Hi,

I'm about to do this retrofit myself but I have a question.
You've lost me at step 9, connect pin 7, 8 and 9 to what?
The drivers door is pretty clear to me but the passengers door, I barely seem to find any clear info on that...
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      03-25-2017, 03:23 PM   #5
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Hy, your method has one problem: the cable cross section of + and - for the passenger mirror
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      03-31-2017, 08:15 AM   #6
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anybody that can clear up the passenger's side? or a diagram?
Any help would be much appreciated.
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      04-01-2017, 02:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingpinRCR View Post
Hi,

I'm about to do this retrofit myself but I have a question.
You've lost me at step 9, connect pin 7, 8 and 9 to what?
The drivers door is pretty clear to me but the passengers door, I barely seem to find any clear info on that...
Sorry for my late replay ... I did not received a mail that someone posted in the Thread.

Pin 7,8,9 are directly connected to the passenger side. Because the are direct controlled in the basic setup. After Coding and changing the Switch they are useless. So we can use them. Cut the cable (7,8,9) and connect the Cable (1,2,10) on the Car side (not the switch side of cours )

All Pins are located on the Switch Connector on the Driver Side.

Pin 7 with Pin 1 (ground)
Pin 8 with Pin 2 (Lin Bus)
Pin 9 with Pin 10 (power)


Quote:
Originally Posted by tomsab0 View Post
Hy, your method has one problem: the cable cross section of + and - for the passenger mirror
I did not get it - what do you mean?


best
Tim

Last edited by V.I.P.E.R; 04-01-2017 at 02:54 PM..
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      04-02-2017, 11:46 AM   #8
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If i understand you correctly i have to cut pin 7 of the passenger's switch (s35) and tap into pin 1 of the passenger's switch (s35)? (and ofcourse the same for the other 2 couples)

kind regards,

Tom
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      04-02-2017, 11:52 AM   #9
V.I.P.E.R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingpinRCR View Post
If i understand you correctly i have to cut pin 7 of the passenger's switch (s35) and tap into pin 1 of the passenger's switch (s35)? (and ofcourse the same for the other 2 couples)

kind regards,

Tom
Almost right - not on the passenger side. On the driver side!
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      04-02-2017, 01:49 PM   #10
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so... like this?:
s35*1b = drivers side switch
x28*1b = connector from everything in driver's door to the car (connector x15)

s35*1bpin 7 to x28*1b pin 1 (this used to be the heating wich is now controlled by LINbus)
s35*1b pin 8 to x28*1b pin 2 (used to be passenger's mirror ground)
s35*1b pin 9 to x28*1b pin 10 (used to be incremental sensor 2 )

i'm a little worried about the sensor thingy...
does this look right?

ps: it seems strange to me that there are no connections to be made to the fem or on the passenger's side...
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      04-02-2017, 02:04 PM   #11
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It looks like you mixing up some things. Let me explain it again:
Everything happened on the Connector to the driver switch S35*1B. There is a connector with 12 Pins.

1 -> Ground
2 -> Lin
3 -> Mirror Power
4 -> Lin
5 -> not used
6 -> not used
7 -> Connected to Passenger Side
8 -> Connected to Passenger Side
9 -> Connected to Passenger Side
10 -> Power
11 -> Ground
12 -> not used


You Have to Cut 7,8,9 so that they are not longer connected to the switch. Now you have to connect the cute cables of 7,8,9 with the cables 1,2,10 ( I've cut them as well and used a soldering bolt to connect them)

The Clue:
Because you use the cables which are already placed in the car, you don't need to use new cable for FEM and so on. Pretty Easy


If its still unclear - I need to draw something ... But I think it should be clear...
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      04-03-2017, 09:13 AM   #12
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I get it now.
I was confused because it was much more complicated in the diagrams that I have.
Just to be clear, I have absolutely no connections to make at the passengers door? Just those 3 on the driver's side and everything will work after coding? Dimming and tilting in reverse also? If that is correct than i'll know what to do tomorrow...
Thanks for the info!

PS: tomsab0 is talking about the diameter of the wires. But like you said, it's a low voltage so the wires should be able to handle it...
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      04-03-2017, 11:43 AM   #13
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Hi,

yes nothing to do, just plug in the new mirror and you're done. It was so easy - this is why I thought to write a How-To

The diameter is not a big deal - not much power usage over the wire ... But if someone complains - use new cables instead Its still safe over the fuse.

best
Tim
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      04-06-2017, 12:52 PM   #14
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Hi again,

Do you perhaps have a guide to what has to be coded?

Edit: nevermind, I'm new to coding and retrofitting and only coded once before. (I coded the kombi to show "m performance" as a test.) So this was like being thrown into the deep end as I have no help but this forum.
I didn't know how to vo code option 430, turns out I just had to fdl code the following:

FEM_BODY 3053 KOMFORTOEFFNUNG_FB aktiv
FEM_BODY 3053 KOMFORTSCHLIESSUNG_FB aktiv
FEM_BODY 3053 KOMFORTSCHLIESSUNG_PA aktiv (not necessary since I don't have comfort acces, but did it anyway just in case)
FEM_BODY 3110 ASP_BEIKLAPPEN_BEI_KOMFORTSCHLIESSEN aktiv
FEM_BODY 3110 ASP_AUSKLAPPEN_NACH_KOMFORTSCHLIESSEN aktiv

+ If you want to decrease initiation delay:

FEM_BODY 3053 KOMFORT_SCHLIESSEN werte = 00

I did also change something else in the same cafd that looked like it is involved with powerfolding mirrors, but I can't remember what. I'm pretty sure now that it isn't required though...

As of now I can confirm that this alternative wiring does work on a f30.
Thanks V.I.P.E.R, this made everything so much simpler.

To all of you who want to do this:
After installing the mirrors but before coding, the mirrors will work partially (ie you can adjust them but won't fold) but the windows stop responding. DON'T PANIC (as i did a little), they will work again after coding the mirrors.

Last edited by KingpinRCR; 04-06-2017 at 02:30 PM..
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      04-10-2017, 02:11 PM   #15
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Awsome that it works - thx for the feedback!

Of course fdl coding will although work - VO coding does the same. But imho it is better to add the SA to the FA to make it Update stable.
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      04-20-2017, 05:53 PM   #16
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Thanks you V.I.P.E.R great guide
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      05-31-2017, 06:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V.I.P.E.R View Post
Awsome that it works - thx for the feedback!

Of course fdl coding will although work - VO coding does the same. But imho it is better to add the SA to the FA to make it Update stable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by V.I.P.E.R View Post
Awsome that it works - thx for the feedback!

Of course fdl coding will although work - VO coding does the same. But imho it is better to add the SA to the FA to make it Update stable.
Hi Viper thank you, only one question, if you have rheingold can you check if there is any fault due to not removal of unused pin on fem?

Thank you
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      10-19-2017, 01:07 AM   #18
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Hi, can I replace only driver side mirror(LHD) to see if mirror works as it should?
Then I will replace the other one to.
Just plug and play, change mirror + window switch + coding?

I have F30, 2015
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      10-19-2017, 08:45 AM   #19
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Great DIY! Hopefully it will help those who dont have power mirors, auto tilt, heated etc.

I have a set of mirrors with auto tilt, heated, folding for sale if anyones looking to do this retrofit. The frame goes on a 4 series but all the other parts can be used on a 1,2,3,4 series. Just need to be disassembled.
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      10-20-2017, 09:35 AM   #20
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Very well done sir!
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      11-02-2017, 06:02 PM   #21
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My wires are different colours. Should I still cut same pins?
The driver mirror works as it should after coding.

View post on imgur.com

View post on imgur.com

Thanks!

EDIT: Works

Last edited by Abi; 11-03-2017 at 01:20 PM..
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      07-23-2018, 08:03 AM   #22
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Hi,

I’m also gona do this job but i’m using Esys for coding and i’m pretty new with this. Can someone tell me the codes I have to add or change in Esys?

Grtzzz,

Stefan

Edit: Done. It works in Esys with the same codes. Only the 430 code i couldn't find. And i get a fault code that the mirrorswitch is not the Original one….. So if anyone knows how to solve this, please let me know….

Last edited by svhout; 07-30-2018 at 03:14 AM..
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