[krnlight]

Just dropped off my car for an oil change at 40k and was told that I've got both the oil pan and the oil filter housing gasket leaking...mine still is under the CPO warranty so I just need to pay the deductible to getting this fixed.

[ceedawg]

Originally Posted by krnlight

Just dropped off my car for an oil change at 40k and was told that I've got both the oil pan and the oil filter housing gasket leaking...mine still is under the CPO warranty so I just need to pay the deductible to getting this fixed.

Taking mine into the dealer tomorrow for a scheduled appointment because they saw oil all over the drivers side of the block underneath the intake manifold. Car has only 48k miles. 2k miles short of warranty expiration.

[lkstaack]

Way too many early gasket failures on this engine. I replaced my stock oil cooler with a larger one. Hopefully it will delay these gasket failures, but who knows?

[Tchao]

N55 is no different than every BMW engine since the M50 as far as common parts failure goes.

Expect every inline 6 BMW to have coolant and OFHG problems. Except N54, then you also have another phone book of things that fail often.

[lkstaack]

Originally Posted by Tchao

N55 is no different than every BMW engine since the M50 as far as common parts failure goes.

Expect every inline 6 BMW to have coolant and OFHG problems. Except N54, then you also have another phone book of things that fail often.

No different? Did you notice that little twirly thing under the exhaust manifold? It tends to keep things kinda hot.

[JaredG_F30]

I guess time will tell. You are right in that engine components, especially plastic and rubber ones will fail earlier due to the increase under hood temps. I'm thinking that a vented hood might actually help in this regard. Regardless even NA BMW engines are notorious for gasket leaks (OFHG, VCG, OPG) and coolant leaks so we can expect shorter lifespans with the turbo engines.

Originally Posted by lkstaack

No different? Did you notice that little twirly thing under the exhaust manifold? It tends to keep things kinda hot.

[lkstaack]

Originally Posted by JaredG_F30

I guess time will tell. You are right in that engine components, especially plastic and rubber ones will fail earlier due to the increase under hood temps. I'm thinking that a vented hood might actually help in this regard. Regardless even NA BMW engines are notorious for gasket leaks (OFHG, VCG, OPG) and coolant leaks so we can expect shorter lifespans with the turbo engines.

Owning two E46s for over 10 years, I have replaced valve cover gaskets, oil filter gaskets, Oil level sensor gaskets, crank case gaskets, VANOS sensor gaskets, etc. However, with the exception of VCGs, they generally last 100K miles or more before they need to be replaced. Not so with the N55. All of these gaskets, not to mention warped valve covers and transmission pans, need replacing far, far earlier.

I would seriously consider a vented hood if there was a quality one commercially available.

[ceedawg]

As I posted before I believe I saw a lot of moist oil sludge on the passenger side of the block under the intake manifold but a lot. Well below is what they are claiming is the fix so we will see. My car has 48,420 miles ,factory warranty expires Oct 22 2k18 I was told also but I have an extended warranty.

I think they're full of it but I will check in a few miles to see.

[lkstaack]

It's certainly possible that the cap gasket failed, but I would also expect a rough idle due to a vacuum leak if it was the cap.

[ceedawg]

Originally Posted by lkstaack

It's certainly possible that the cap gasket failed, but I would also expect a rough idle due to a vacuum leak if it was the cap.

I agree and I never ever had an idle nor stall issue.

[lkstaack]

Originally Posted by lkstaack

Oil filter housing gasket failed on my E46 at around 100k miles and at 37k miles on my F30. BMW needs to figure this out.

51K miles and the housing gasket failed again.

[enjoythemusic]

Wife's 2013 X1 failed at about 55k miles. We replaced gasket and water pump. While you;re in there, have them do the water pump too if your mileage is 'close enough' to dictate it since they seem to be in the same basic area.

[JaredG_F30]

I'm glad I have the CPO extended warranty but since I plan on keeping this car for a long time (eventual track rat) I guess I'll need to get good at changing the OFHG.

[lkstaack]

Originally Posted by enjoythemusic

Wife's 2013 X1 failed at about 55k miles. We replaced gasket and water pump. While you;re in there, have them do the water pump too if your mileage is 'close enough' to dictate it since they seem to be in the same basic area.

The electric water pump isn't near the oil filter housing on a F30 335i. Also, the electric pump isn't problematic like the older plastic belt driven ones.

When I removed the filter housing, I may have discovered why it failed after only 14k miles. It's supposed to be torqued to 16 ft lbs, but my housing (installed by a dealer tech) was torqued much higher. About 35 lbs, I guess.

[enjoythemusic]

Originally Posted by lkstaack

The electric water pump isn't near the oil filter housing on a F30 335i. Also, the electric pump isn't problematic like the older plastic belt driven ones.

Thank you, learn something new every day. Thanks for the added info and truly do appreciate it.

[Dog Face Pony Soldier]

This was brought to my attention at my 63k oil change service, almost exactly 3 years after I took delivery. I never saw the oil level go down or any drips, but it was making a mess.

Oil change, Vehicle Inspection, and the gasket repair was $1132 with NJ sales tax included at Park Ave BMW. I also threw the tech $20 to take some extra care cleaning up the mess.

[jh_f30]

Originally Posted by glennQNYC

This was brought to my attention at my 63k oil change service, almost exactly 3 years after I took delivery. I never saw the oil level go down or any drips, but it was making a mess.

Oil change, Vehicle Inspection, and the gasket repair was $1132 with NJ sales tax included at Park Ave BMW. I also threw the tech $20 to take some extra care cleaning up the mess.

Ouch. $20 for oil cooler and oil filter housing gaskets and a few tools and I did mine in about an hour.

[Dog Face Pony Soldier]

Originally Posted by jh_f30

Ouch. $20 for oil cooler and oil filter housing gaskets and a few tools and I did mine in about an hour.

Not buying the hour talk, but it's irrelevant anyway.

Living in a condo has advantages and disadvantages. One disadvantage is not having a driveway that's conducive to tinkering on my car.

[Logicoeur]

When people are saying they get this done under 3hrs, are they also draining oil and coolant?

I'm doing research to see if I want to diy, since indie quoted me 865 for the OFHG, Belt and tensioner. They got oil all over them from the leak.

[Tchao]

Originally Posted by Logicoeur

When people are saying they get this done under 3hrs, are they also draining oil and coolant?

I'm doing research to see if I want to diy, since indie quoted me 865 for the OFHG, Belt and tensioner. They got oil all over them from the leak.

No oil draining required. Just residual losses.

But forsure coolant loss. Just refill the the coolant, make SURE to leave the proper amount of air in the expansion tank. This is how the system bleeds.

Run the car with the cap off until you see bubbles stop entering the expansion tank from the bleed line, then just cap it and any residual air will find its way into the expansion tank. BMWs are one of the easiest to bleed.

Definitely do the tensioner and belt while you are there. Another super easy job with lots of DIY's posted.

[jh_f30]

Originally Posted by Tchao

No oil draining required. Just residual losses.

But forsure coolant loss. Just refill the the coolant, make SURE to leave the proper amount of air in the expansion tank. This is how the system bleeds.

Run the car with the cap off until you see bubbles stop entering the expansion tank from the bleed line, then just cap it and any residual air will find its way into the expansion tank. BMWs are one of the easiest to bleed.

Definitely do the tensioner and belt while you are there. Another super easy job with lots of DIY's posted.

Hmm, that coolant bleed process is a little different from what I've done. I fill the tank with the bleeder screw off until coolant starts to slightly flow from the bleeder hole. Screw it back in, cap it off, then run the bleed cycle (battery tender hooked up, ignition on, engine off, heater on full blast at max temp, press and hold gas pedal past the kickdown for 10-12 seconds. Starts the pump cycle that lasts around 10-15 minutes. Check the coolant level and adjust if necessary.)

[Logicoeur]

Originally Posted by jh_f30

Hmm, that coolant bleed process is a little different from what I've done. I fill the tank with the bleeder screw off until coolant starts to slightly flow from the bleeder hole. Screw it back in, cap it off, then run the bleed cycle (battery tender hooked up, ignition on, engine off, heater on full blast at max temp, press and hold gas pedal past the kickdown for 10-12 seconds. Starts the pump cycle that lasts around 10-15 minutes. Check the coolant level and adjust if necessary.)

Is this a documented bleeding procedure? I am hard pressed to understand how and why that works lol. How and why is the gas pedal mapped to starting some kind of pump in the coolant system? Is there a secondary pump just the the cabin heating loop?