[Brett530]

I'd like some help creating a phased plan to get my 2017 340i up to 430-450 WHP. Ideally each phase would add some power and keep costs within reason.

Car info:
M-Sport RWD with just over 3k miles. Track Handling Package everything stock except for a JB4 installed running map 1.

Goals:
- Maintain existing smooth driveability as much as possible since this is a daily driver
- Prioritize long term reliability
- Need to maintain emissions, so a downpipe would need to be catted
- I'm stuck with 91 octane here in Utah (which is equivalent to 93 at sea level). I have not found E85 locally, so that is probably not something to design around.
- Warranty is not a factor. This was a BMW Performance Driving School car. I bought it with 1800 miles on it and no factory warranty/maintenance plan.
- Currently no plans for tracking
- Not looking for excessive burbles and noise, but a a little more turbo noise and deeper exhaust note would be welcome.

Other:
- I'm torn on Water Meth injection. Seems like a nice cheap way to get power but seems high maintenance with potential reliability issues. Seems to be plenty of opposing views on WMI.
- I'm willing to consider intake, larger turbo, downpipe, exhaust, WMI, ECU flash, keep or remove JB4.
- We seem to be at the early stages of flash tunes for the B58, I can wait on all this if waiting opens up better options. The B58 with JB4 isn't exactly slow.

There are just too many variables and options, brands, and price points for me to figure this out. I'm very mechanical but other than piggy-back tunes, I'm an FBO novice.

[eluded]

Originally Posted by Brett530

- I'm stuck with 91 octane here in Utah (which is equivalent to 93 at sea level).

91 octane is 91 octane regardless of elevation.

Why not just put on down pipe and get one of those new flash tunes? That's as good as it will get on this platform. Otherwise go get an f 80 and be done with it.

[fb58]

from everything i read hopefully im wrong
you need meth too make more then 400whpish

[B58togo]

Not sure what you mean by 91 octane in Utah being equal to 93 at sea level. But with a DP, intake and Stage 2 flash, you should be very close to 400 whp. Add WMI, and depending on ratio, you're at your 430-450 goal. Keep the JB4 as a meth controller.

[Brett530]

Originally Posted by B58togo

Not sure what you mean by 91 octane in Utah being equal to 93 at sea level. But with a DP, intake and Stage 2 flash, you should be very close to 400 whp. Add WMI, and depending on ratio, you're at your 430-450 goal. Keep the JB4 as a meth controller.

Thanks that is a good starting place.

I should have probably just left off the comment about 93 octane. It doesn't really affect the mods I would need to do. (At the risk of turning this into an octane thread...) My understanding is that with less available oxygen at 4500 feet, pre-detonation is inhibited more than at sea level so it takes less combustion inhibitor in the fuel - lower octane.

[Brett530]

Originally Posted by B58togo

Not sure what you mean by 91 octane in Utah being equal to 93 at sea level. But with a DP, intake and Stage 2 flash, you should be very close to 400 whp. Add WMI, and depending on ratio, you're at your 430-450 goal. Keep the JB4 as a meth controller.

Which things need to be done at the same time? Can I do WMI first (w JB4), then a catted DP, and later a flash, or does the DP need a flash tune in order to add power?

Edit: I see that a downpipe will add some power without a tune. Even though I do have a tune, I'm not sure I can get any more boost using a dp since I'm fuel/octane limited. I think I may do the dp first. It is hard to decide which catted dp. CG Precision looks nice but is it that much better than aFe to justify the price difference? Suggestions? I'll probably stay with stock exhaust unless that is a significant limiting factor/restriction.

Edit 2: Now I'm confused again, this thread: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1468361 seems to be saying a DP will not add any power to a B58.

[B58togo]

You’ll gain roughly 10 whp with a high flow catted dp and probably 12-15 with a fully catless one. Turbo will spool more quickly as well. You can do it in any order, but I’d wait till you’re flashed and have a dp/intake before doing meth. Intake is more or less just a noise maker. I did an intake and JB4 at 1200 miles and then added a catless dp at 22,000. I’ll flash it next and then see where the car stands. Eventually I’ll want more, and that’s when I’ll probably do meth. Maybe by then however, we’ll have a viable port injection option that will make more power without meth. Unfortunately, I don’t have local access to e85 either.

[Nugget]

If you want 450whp without meth you probably need a bigger turbo.
So
-Pure Stage 2 Turbo
-Downpipe
-Intake
-Flash
-can keep the JB4 for logging and on the fly boost control

[eksigned]

step 1. sell car. step 2. buy M3.

[B58]

Terry hit 440WHP with E40, JB4, and intake with a lean AFR. Once back-end flash is released for the JB4 and fuel trims have been tweaked around we can probably run a E30 blend and with a DP you can probably hit 420-430 WHP if i had to guesstimate with a safe ethanol level blended in the tank if you do have access to E85. Other then that, with meth you will see 450WHP and such.

[B58togo]

Originally Posted by eksigned

step 1. sell car. step 2. buy M3.

Step 3. Realize you’ve made a really dumb financial mistake because all you really wanted was straight line power, and not the pedigree of a true M car, along with all the extra costs associated with it. Let’s see. Sell a one to two year old car and take a bath on resale. Turn around and buy a car that costs roughly 18k more, MSRP to MSRP and then suffer the increased insurance premiums on top of the resale hit and new car differential, when you could have just spent $2500 up front to get the extra power.

[E90ROXS]

Originally Posted by eksigned

step 1. sell car. step 2. buy M3.

kakak same comment made on the 328i forum. We tell those guys why bother with the 328 just get a 335. You should tell the M3 guys to get an M5.

[jrdoming]

Take a look at the n54tech boards. There are a good number of people with just JB4+meth who are pushing 450ish. You can add intake+dp if you like but they are mostly noise makers and from what I'm seeing not required to reach those power numbers. Could always stack a back-end flash on there later.

[B58]

Originally Posted by jrdoming

intake+dp if you like but they are mostly noise makers and from what I'm seeing not required to reach those power numbers.

Baseline Stock: 314Whp 339wtq
BMS Intake: 324whp 335wtq
BMS Intake + VM 4" Downpipe: 344whp 354wtq
BMS Intake + VM 4" Downpipe + Jb4 Map1: 370whp 400wtq


https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...5#post19453015

[Brett530]

Originally Posted by eksigned

step 1. sell car. step 2. buy M3.

Doh! Why didn't I think of that?

Hmm. I don't seem to be getting any hits on auto tranny M3's.
Maybe you can point me to one. /s

[Brett530]

As I've been comparing catted DPs, I'm wondering what I'm getting for near 1k. I don't really want the noise, and catted are maybe +15hp, so is the main benefit quicker spool-up? I'm almost tempted to go catless, but I don't want the noise, smell, or hassle with emission inspections.

I'm coming back around to WMI, but not sure I want the boost and timing to be in an unsafe range if there is a WMI failure. Can a JB4 protect a WOT run with high boost if the meth stops suddenly?

[jrdoming]

Originally Posted by Brett530

As I've been comparing catted DPs, I'm wondering what I'm getting for near 1k. I don't really want the noise, and catted are maybe +15hp, so is the main benefit quicker spool-up? I'm almost tempted to go catless, but I don't want the noise, small, or hassle with emission inspections.

I'm coming back around to WMI, but not sure I want the boost and timing to be in an unsafe range is there is a WMI failure. Can a JB4 protect a WOT run with high boost if the meth stops suddenly?

I believe jb4 has meth flow sensing and will throw you to map 4 if it fails but would rather someone else make that statement given I haven't added wmi yet.

[B58togo]

Originally Posted by Brett530

As I've been comparing catted DPs, I'm wondering what I'm getting for near 1k. I don't really want the noise, and catted are maybe +15hp, so is the main benefit quicker spool-up? I'm almost tempted to go catless, but I don't want the noise, small, or hassle with emission inspections.

I'm coming back around to WMI, but not sure I want the boost and timing to be in an unsafe range is there is a WMI failure. Can a JB4 protect a WOT run with high boost if the meth stops suddenly?

Yes, there is a fail safe that monitors meth flow and will revert to stock map if there's an interruption in flow. If you want to learn more about meth/JB4 integration, there is lots of info at n54tech.com

[Brett530]

The N54tech site is kind of "sprawling" with info. A thread called "Is this log ok?" will contain 8 pages of tuning tips.

I guess I just have to read it all - which I'm now inclined to do while I wait for my BMS WMI kit I just ordered with the stealth 3 gal tank. I'm still working on how to explain what it is to my wife. Her most frequent comment when riding with me is "I don't want to die". So, "I need more power" won't go over too well.
Um.. "its an engine cooling system that also keeps the engine clean"

[Mr Carrots]

Originally Posted by B58togo

Step 3. Realize you’ve made a really dumb financial mistake because all you really wanted was straight line power, and not the pedigree of a true M car, along with all the extra costs associated with it. Let’s see. Sell a one to two year old car and take a bath on resale. Turn around and buy a car that costs roughly 18k more, MSRP to MSRP and then suffer the increased insurance premiums on top of the resale hit and new car differential, when you could have just spent $2500 up front to get the extra power.

might as well just buy a mustang GT and add a whipple if you want massive HP on a budget

buying an m3 just to invalidate the warranty with tuning seems a really bad choice

The b58 really doesnt seem to be the platform to produce huge power, BMW didn't want us pushing silly numbers on these cars sadly

[eksigned]

Originally Posted by B58togo

Step 3. Realize you’ve made a really dumb financial mistake because all you really wanted was straight line power, and not the pedigree of a true M car, along with all the extra costs associated with it. Let’s see. Sell a one to two year old car and take a bath on resale. Turn around and buy a car that costs roughly 18k more, MSRP to MSRP and then suffer the increased insurance premiums on top of the resale hit and new car differential, when you could have just spent $2500 up front to get the extra power.

450 whp isn’t attainable safely. Agree to disagree on that one. Buy a used M3, kick the resale cost to the curb and be done with it.

[eksigned]

Originally Posted by B58

Baseline Stock: 314Whp 339wtq
BMS Intake: 324whp 335wtq
BMS Intake + VM 4" Downpipe: 344whp 354wtq
BMS Intake + VM 4" Downpipe + Jb4 Map1: 370whp 400wtq


https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...5#post19453015

Far from 450 whp the OP wants though