[ProperBimmer]

Hey guys,
Have 49k on my CPO 14 335 with MPPK and MPE on it. Took my car in for service today and it called for plugs, brake fluid flush, cabin filter and oil change. Definitely not paying $450 for a plug change.

-What do I need to do the plug service? I'm assuming there is a special plug tool?
-what part # for plugs? Does it vary from regular n55 plugs bc of mppk?


Let me know, thanks

[F32Fleet]

Thin walled deep spark plug socket, torque wrench, extension and min 8 degree swivel.

[redbullfan]

these are the plugs you need for the car
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...lug-0242145518

[redbullfan]

[redbullfan]

[ProperBimmer]

Shit okay. Next question.....who is near Hartford CT that I can pay to do this!! Lol

[jh_f30]

Originally Posted by ProperBimmer

Shit okay. Next question.....who is near Hartford CT that I can pay to do this!! Lol

If I was in the area, I'd do it for $400!

In all seriousness, spark plug change is not all that bad. Minimal tools required, about an hour of work for your first time. Brake fluid flush requires some more specialized tools (pressure bleeder and bleeder bottles) but you can get those off Amazon for about $75 or so.

Just depends on if you're the type who likes wrenching on their own car. Personally, I like learning and doing as much as I can myself, so if it's relatively simple, I'd rather DIY it and see the tool/equipment purchases as an investment for future maintenance I'll inevitably and up doing in the timeframe I anticipate owning the car (til the wheels fall off).

[ProperBimmer]

Originally Posted by jh_f30

If I was in the area, I'd do it for $400!

In all seriousness, spark plug change is not all that bad. Minimal tools required, about an hour of work for your first time. Brake fluid flush requires some more specialized tools (pressure bleeder and bleeder bottles) but you can get those off Amazon for about $75 or so.

Just depends on if you're the type who likes wrenching on their own car. Personally, I like learning and doing as much as I can myself, so if it's relatively simple, I'd rather DIY it and see the tool/equipment purchases as an investment for future maintenance I'll inevitably and up doing in the timeframe I anticipate owning the car (til the wheels fall off).

Not afraid of wrenching, just too old to do it now, not enough time in the day for me and I'd rather pay for it. My dealer here would do it for 450$! 26$ per plug, which is fucking insulting! I need an Indy shop, then again I don't even think I need the plug replaced!! Car runs and pulls strong

[Logicoeur]

After 50K miles you definitely would benefit from new spark plugs. When you swap them you will wonder why you didn't do it sooner.

You can find the oem plugs on eBay for ~$60. I plan to do mine this weekend. Just hit 60K and it's still on the factory plugs.

I swapped in a new air filter two weeks ago and gained 2mpg. Plugs will net you more.

[ProperBimmer]

Originally Posted by redbullfan

these are the plugs you need for the car
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...lug-0242145518

This is the part # I received from the dealer. At FCP these are 19.99$ a piece. High power plug?[IMG][/IMG]

[redbullfan]

Originally Posted by ProperBimmer

This is the part # I received from the dealer. At FCP these are 19.99$ a piece. High power plug?[IMG][/IMG]

You dont need high power plugs, just stick to the one that came with the car. And im pretty sure when installing MPPK the dealer doesnt change the plugs out for different ones

[ProperBimmer]

Originally Posted by redbullfan

You dont need high power plugs, just stick to the one that came with the car. And im pretty sure when installing MPPK the dealer doesnt change the plugs out for different ones

These are what the dealer said is in my car currently. Wondering what the difference is? I do have mppk (with jb+ on the low). What's the difference?

[upsidedownfunnel]

Originally Posted by ProperBimmer

These are what the dealer said is in my car currently. Wondering what the difference is? I do have mppk (with jb+ on the low). What's the difference?

Those are the spark plugs that all N55 cars come with. They're just the regular Bosch spark plugs with BMW branding. You can also use Bosch ZR5TPP33S
(don't forget the S) which are the OEM unbranded part.

All that prep work is just to remove plastic panels and move some things aside like the strut brace. If you were thinking about doing it, you should consider it.

If not, I agree not to pay the dealer $450 to do it. The plugs should cost you about $70 and labor should cost about $100-$150 tops at a good indy shop.

[F32Fleet]

BTW...IIRC plugs are 60k miles for the N55

[ProperBimmer]

Originally Posted by upsidedownfunnel

Those are the spark plugs that all N55 cars come with. They're just the regular Bosch spark plugs with BMW branding. You can also use Bosch ZR5TPP33S
(don't forget the S) which are the OEM unbranded part.

All that prep work is just to remove plastic panels and move some things aside like the strut brace. If you were thinking about doing it, you should consider it.

If not, I agree not to pay the dealer $450 to do it. The plugs should cost you about $70 and labor should cost about $100-$150 tops at a good indy shop.

Okay I can grab the ones you mentioned for 60$, what is the difference in the high power ones?

Also, I've seen a list of items needed to do the plug change, thin walled socked, plastic trim tools etc....no bullshit what exactly do I need to do this and not break bank here? I have never ever in my life used a tq wrench while changing plugs on any of my BMW's in the last 18 years!! Is that necessary?

[ProperBimmer]

Originally Posted by upsidedownfunnel

Those are the spark plugs that all N55 cars come with. They're just the regular Bosch spark plugs with BMW branding. You can also use Bosch ZR5TPP33S
(don't forget the S) which are the OEM unbranded part.

All that prep work is just to remove plastic panels and move some things aside like the strut brace. If you were thinking about doing it, you should consider it.

If not, I agree not to pay the dealer $450 to do it. The plugs should cost you about $70 and labor should cost about $100-$150 tops at a good indy shop.

FYI also, I am mechanically inclined, done dp's on my other n54 335's, cp's, fmic's, etc.....breaking coil packs and working around injectors just hasn't been my forte, don't want to mess anything up

[ProperBimmer]

Originally Posted by Logicoeur

After 50K miles you definitely would benefit from new spark plugs. When you swap them you will wonder why you didn't do it sooner.

You can find the oem plugs on eBay for ~$60. I plan to do mine this weekend. Just hit 60K and it's still on the factory plugs.

I swapped in a new air filter two weeks ago and gained 2mpg. Plugs will net you more.

Which plugs did you use?

[ProperBimmer]

Originally Posted by upsidedownfunnel

Those are the spark plugs that all N55 cars come with. They're just the regular Bosch spark plugs with BMW branding. You can also use Bosch ZR5TPP33S
(don't forget the S) which are the OEM unbranded part.

All that prep work is just to remove plastic panels and move some things aside like the strut brace. If you were thinking about doing it, you should consider it.

If not, I agree not to pay the dealer $450 to do it. The plugs should cost you about $70 and labor should cost about $100-$150 tops at a good indy shop.

Damnit just got a quote from Munich Motorsports here in CT for 380$ for plug change! Lol about to do this shit myself

[Logicoeur]

Originally Posted by ProperBimmer

Which plugs did you use?

OE SPEC ZR5TPP33S for now. Once I tune I'll go colder with NGK.

[jh_f30]

Originally Posted by ProperBimmer

Okay I can grab the ones you mentioned for 60$, what is the difference in the high power ones?

Also, I've seen a list of items needed to do the plug change, thin walled socked, plastic trim tools etc....no bullshit what exactly do I need to do this and not break bank here? I have never ever in my life used a tq wrench while changing plugs on any of my BMW's in the last 18 years!! Is that necessary?

You shouldn't need a trim tool.

Thin-walled magnetic socket can be found on amazon for <$10.

Socket extension set for the same. I recommend with wobble.

Might need universal joint adapters, also around $10.

You can get a torque wrench from Harbor Freight (3/8" drive) for $20. Improperly torqued plugs will alter the depth at which they're set in the cylinder and can cause adverse effects on ignition (from what I heard).

All in with the plugs that you said set you back $60, you're looking at around $110. Worth the $340 savings imo. Use that to get a new air filter, brake fluid, and a brake fluid flush kit and you'll still have money leftover.

Oh yeah, take out another $60-75 for an oil filter and oil. Still in the green!

[Zyler]

I just did my plugs this weekend and ran into an issue that I outlined in another thread regarding over tightening the plugs. Be sure to get an decent torque wrench. I used the harbor freight mentioned above and at 18 ft lbs (which the spark plugs should be torqued at) it was difficult for me to hear/feel the click which lead me to over tighten the plug resulting in a misfire. I since swapped in another plug and all is well again.

The install is easy - took me an hour start to finish. Get 6 of the Bosch ZR5TPP33S (must have the S) along with a "BMW MINI 14 MM 12 Point spark plug socket - CTA2376" from FCP euro. The socket has the rubber grommet and works fine. Cost me like $70 total and was delivered in one day.

Follow the link that BadBread posted above - It clearly explains each step and lists tools needed as well as the torque specs

Some things to know before you do the install -
E socket size 18 will remove the torx for the strut bars in case you don't want to buy a whole set. I reused the torx for these.
Tape (yes duct tape) the spark plug socket to the flex joint on your extension and lube the rubber grommet inside the socket. If you don't the socket may stay on the plug.
Work on one cylinder at a time from start to finish so you don't mix the connections (although this is difficult since its clear which cylinder they connect too)
Get a decent torque wrench
Don't forget to put the little black circle things back that cover the bolts for the struts and instead watch them fly away during the test drive afterwards.

[badbread]

Originally Posted by Zyler

I just did my plugs this weekend and ran into an issue that I outlined in another thread regarding over tightening the plugs. Be sure to get an decent torque wrench. I used the harbor freight mentioned above and at 18 ft lbs (which the spark plugs should be torqued at) it was difficult for me to hear/feel the click which lead me to over tighten the plug resulting in a misfire. I since swapped in another plug and all is well again.

The install is easy - took me an hour start to finish. Get 6 of the Bosch ZR5TPP33S (must have the S) along with a "BMW MINI 14 MM 12 Point spark plug socket - CTA2376" from FCP euro. The socket has the rubber grommet and works fine. Cost me like $70 total and was delivered in one day.

Follow the link that BadBread posted above - It clearly explains each step and lists tools needed as well as the torque specs

Some things to know before you do the install -
E socket size 18 will remove the torx for the strut bars in case you don't want to buy a whole set. I reused the torx for these.
Tape (yes duct tape) the spark plug socket to the flex joint on your extension and lube the rubber grommet inside the socket. If you don't the socket may stay on the plug.
Work on one cylinder at a time from start to finish so you don't mix the connections (although this is difficult since its clear which cylinder they connect too)
Get a decent torque wrench
Don't forget to put the little black circle things back that cover the bolts for the struts and instead watch them fly away during the test drive afterwards.

Glad it helped! Don't know if you lost your little black circle things but I've lost count how many things the engine bay gremlin has eaten at this point...

Any type of tape (blue tape as well, doesn't leave a residue) works when pulling the extension out after tightening. I used those locking extension bars which work well but totally not necessary, I'm just always looking for an excuse to buy more tools.