[1080]

Picked up a 320i last week with 77k miles(125,200 km's to be exact, i live in Holland). I usually dont buy cars with more than 100,000 km/60k miles on the dash but the thing is i still have 9 months of BMW guarantee with this car. So that kinda makes me more comfortable with it. Its an ex-lease and always maintened at BMW. I do have the knocking engine sound but like everyone says, its gone when the oil is hot enough. And everything else is just smoooth.

Now the big question. I was delightfully suprised to hear that the 320i has the same engine, turbo, drivetrain and transmission as the 328i, except for the pistons. So a remap is a logical choice. But is this a smart thing to do at 125,000 km's? Is the N20 engine solid enough for this? And just to be clear: i want the 184hp to 260hp remap.

Also IF i take the remap, i will probably go to the ZF(the maker of the tranny) hq in Dortmund to get a full revision for about €400. Which is a really fair price.

[Stubok]

Originally Posted by 1080

Picked up a 320i last week with 77k miles(125,200 km's to be exact, i live in Holland). I usually dont buy cars with more than 100,000 km/60k miles on the dash but the thing is i still have 9 months of BMW guarantee with this car. So that kinda makes me more comfortable with it. Its an ex-lease and always maintened at BMW. I do have the knocking engine sound but like everyone says, its gone when the oil is hot enough. And everything else is just smoooth.

Now the big question. I was delightfully suprised to hear that the 320i has the same engine, turbo, drivetrain and transmission as the 328i, except for the pistons. So a remap is a logical choice. But is this a smart thing to do at 125,000 km's? Is the N20 engine solid enough for this? And just to be clear: i want the 184hp to 260hp remap.

Also IF i take the remap, i will probably go to the ZF(the maker of the tranny) hq in Dortmund to get a full revision for about €400. Which is a really fair price.

Nice that you can have the tranny rebuilt to a higher spec. I hear you can actually just have the car coded so that it thinks the tranny thinks it has the m235i engine.

Supposedly the n20 isn't the most tunable engine, but my 328 is putting down north of 300lbft & HP to the wheel.

Apparently the timing chain and oil pump chains are supposed to be suspect, but not sure how much more stress you put on those by tuning. Also putting down more than 340lbft is a bad idea, as the rod bolts stretch and rods have been shown to give out. There are also a few cases I've read about where the Pistons have cracked.

I think if anything in yours was going to go, maybe it would already have gone, or maybe the chains already been changed? Perhaps with looking into.

I think you're pretty safe going to the stock 28i power.

[Cammy5]

Originally Posted by Stubok

Nice that you can have the tranny rebuilt to a higher spec. I hear you can actually just have the car coded so that it thinks the tranny thinks it has the m235i engine.

Supposedly the n20 isn't the most tunable engine, but my 328 is putting down north of 300lbft & HP to the wheel.

Apparently the timing chain and oil pump chains are supposed to be suspect, but not sure how much more stress you put on those by tuning. Also putting down more than 340lbft is a bad idea, as the rod bolts stretch and rods have been shown to give out. There are also a few cases I've read about where the Pistons have cracked.

I think if anything in yours was going to go, maybe it would already have gone, or maybe the chains already been changed? Perhaps with looking into.

I think you're pretty safe going to the stock 28i power.

Excuse the thread jack....

What mods do you have on your N20 to net 300whp/wtq? I have 255whp/310wtq with my tune alone but am curious how you got to 300whp

[Stubok]

Originally Posted by Cammy5

Excuse the thread jack....

What mods do you have on your N20 to net 300whp/wtq? I have 255whp/310wtq with my tune alone but am curious how you got to 300whp

ACF Performance Stage 3 tune (over Bootmod3), Stage 2 Turbo Upgrade with GFB DV+, AFE Momentum intake, ATM FMIC, ER Charge pipes, ER Catted Downpipe, Supersprint straight through front and Mid pipe to 335 rear muffler, S55 sparkplugs.

ACF have setup the stage 3 tune for the upgraded Turbo pretty conservatively for now. I don't get any more torque than Stage 2 with stock Turbo (330lbft) but the added flow capacity means we hold that target much longer (HP = TORQUE x RPM ÷ 5252). So 330lbft gets 314HP at 5000rpm. Confident we can take it to 350HP or higher by holding the higher boost target up to 5500 or 6000rpm. One of their Brazilian customers got 380HP, but that's on Flex fuel which is E110 (basically race gas)

[1080]

Originally Posted by Cammy5

Excuse the thread jack....

What mods do you have on your N20 to net 300whp/wtq? I have 255whp/310wtq with my tune alone but am curious how you got to 300whp

No worries, i was curious for the answer too

[Cammy5]

Originally Posted by Stubok

ACF Performance Stage 3 tune (over Bootmod3), Stage 2 Turbo Upgrade with GFB DV+, AFE Momentum intake, ATM FMIC, ER Charge pipes, ER Catted Downpipe, Supersprint straight through front and Mid pipe to 335 rear muffler, S55 sparkplugs.

ACF have setup the stage 3 tune for the upgraded Turbo pretty conservatively for now. I don't get any more torque than Stage 2 with stock Turbo (330lbft) but the added flow capacity means we hold that target much longer (HP = TORQUE x RPM ÷ 5252). So 330lbft gets 314HP at 5000rpm. Confident we can take it to 350HP or higher by holding the higher boost target up to 5500 or 6000rpm. One of their Brazilian customers got 380HP, but that's on Flex fuel which is E110 (basically race gas)

Good to know! I'm looking at down the road doing some sort of upgraded turbo (Dinan?) and having my car retuned along with an upgraded FMIC to get 300whp and keep torque roughly the same (310ft-lb).

[CRJdriver]

Originally Posted by Stubok

ACF Performance Stage 3 tune (over Bootmod3), Stage 2 Turbo Upgrade with GFB DV+, AFE Momentum intake, ATM FMIC, ER Charge pipes, ER Catted Downpipe, Supersprint straight through front and Mid pipe to 335 rear muffler, S55 sparkplugs.

ACF have setup the stage 3 tune for the upgraded Turbo pretty conservatively for now. I don't get any more torque than Stage 2 with stock Turbo (330lbft) but the added flow capacity means we hold that target much longer (HP = TORQUE x RPM ÷ 5252). So 330lbft gets 314HP at 5000rpm. Confident we can take it to 350HP or higher by holding the higher boost target up to 5500 or 6000rpm. One of their Brazilian customers got 380HP, but that's on Flex fuel which is E110 (basically race gas)

Hey do u get axle tramp? esp. when it's cold/cold tires? just curious since we run simklarish set up but different tune. I have to launch 2nd gear if it's cold..even on 275 mpss. I really wanna avoid doing subframe bushing.

[Stubok]

Originally Posted by CRJdriver

Hey do u get axle tramp? esp. when it's cold/cold tires? just curious since we run simklarish set up but different tune. I have to launch 2nd gear if it's cold..even on 275 mpss. I really wanna avoid doing subframe bushing.

My back will absolutely brake loose in 1st and 2nd if I floor it with cold tires.

I installed he M3 rear cross brace. It's an inexpensive cool OEM mod you can do. That definitely helps keep me more centered. I'll see if I can find the link for that forum.

[CRJdriver]

Originally Posted by Stubok

My back will absolutely brake loose in 1st and 2nd if I floor it with cold tires.

I installed he M3 rear cross brace. It's an inexpensive cool OEM mod you can do. That definitely helps keep me more centered. I'll see if I can find the link for that forum.

oh the one the goes back from the center brace?

out of curiosity I just dyno got 285/330 with Cali crap 91

from 17 psi to 23 I only gained 3 horsepower peak but like 30 torques.

turbo is out of breathe

http://imgur.com/zUeepej

I will make a proper post if people are interested?

[Stubok]

Originally Posted by CRJdriver

oh the one the goes back from the center brace?

out of curiosity I just dyno got 285/330 with Cali crap 91

from 17 psi to 23 I only gained 3 horsepower peak but like 30 torques.

turbo is out of breathe

http://imgur.com/zUeepej

I will make a proper post if people are interested?

Yea that's what happened to me when I was Stage 2 on stock turbo. You can actually get up to 26psi (I've even heard 29psi) but the internals can't handle it and you get to 4000rpm and the compressor wheel just can push enough air.

So I'm only holding the same pressure target (and torque), but my Turbo can provide the air all the way up.

Interestingly there is a tiny bit more lag, the torque curve isn't quite as steep going up (i.e. It doesn't come on as fast, which I actually like), but it hits the same number as Stage 2 did (330lbft) around 200rpm later and then keeps on going.

It's quite different feeling now. Where it used to run out of steam and I would shift to stay on torque, it now keeps pulling hard up the rpm's.

[CRJdriver]

Originally Posted by Stubok

Yea that's what happened to me when I was Stage 2 on stock turbo. You can actually get up to 26psi (I've even heard 29psi) but the internals can't handle it and you get to 4000rpm and the compressor wheel just can push enough air.

So I'm only holding the same pressure target (and torque), but my Turbo can provide the air all the way up.

Interestingly there is a tiny bit more lag, the torque curve isn't quite as steep going up (i.e. It doesn't come on as fast, which I actually like), but it hits the same number as Stage 2 did (330lbft) around 200rpm later and then keeps on going.

It's quite different feeling now. Where it used to run out of steam and I would shift to stay on torque, it now keeps pulling hard up the rpm's.

sweet man, yeah okay that makes me feel better. I was expecting more then 300 wheel but I guess I never considered it was torque that gives u the sense of speed rather then ultimate power. I do gain torque and power consistently through the lower revs. then like u said just flat after 4.5 and remain flat till redline so at least is usable. suppose that's the difference between the ur 10 and my 11 compression.

Either way we are putting down v8 torque with the 4
If u don't mind I'm going to PM u about the turbo upgrade. It's that or getting a 35 and swapping the bolt on over

here's a scan version of the dyno session. Last 2 runs were 23 psi

[STR8-6IX]

Originally Posted by 1080

Picked up a 320i last week with 77k miles(125,200 km's to be exact, i live in Holland). I usually dont buy cars with more than 100,000 km/60k miles on the dash but the thing is i still have 9 months of BMW guarantee with this car. So that kinda makes me more comfortable with it. Its an ex-lease and always maintened at BMW. I do have the knocking engine sound but like everyone says, its gone when the oil is hot enough. And everything else is just smoooth.

Now the big question. I was delightfully suprised to hear that the 320i has the same engine, turbo, drivetrain and transmission as the 328i, except for the pistons. So a remap is a logical choice. But is this a smart thing to do at 125,000 km's? Is the N20 engine solid enough for this? And just to be clear: i want the 184hp to 260hp remap.

Also IF i take the remap, i will probably go to the ZF(the maker of the tranny) hq in Dortmund to get a full revision for about €400. Which is a really fair price.

someone correct me if i am wrong, but the actual transmission internals are strong enough to handle the extra power, but i believe the transmission should be remapped for the extra power.

I would also either install a downpipe or upgraded muffler to help assist with the added power.

[Stubok]

Originally Posted by 6IX-F10-N52

someone correct me if i am wrong, but the actual transmission internals are strong enough to handle the extra power, but i believe the transmission should be remapped for the extra power.

I would also either install a downpipe or upgraded muffler to help assist with the added power.

That's correct. It's possible to code the 328 Tranny to the M235i. So it expects the same torque and power.

[Stubok]

Originally Posted by CRJdriver

sweet man, yeah okay that makes me feel better. I was expecting more then 300 wheel but I guess I never considered it was torque that gives u the sense of speed rather then ultimate power. I do gain torque and power consistently through the lower revs. then like u said just flat after 4.5 and remain flat till redline so at least is usable. suppose that's the difference between the ur 10 and my 11 compression.

Either way we are putting down v8 torque with the 4
If u don't mind I'm going to PM u about the turbo upgrade. It's that or getting a 35 and swapping the bolt on over

here's a scan version of the dyno session. Last 2 runs were 23 psi

[IMG]

View post on imgur.com

[/IMG]

Nice looking runs bro! Yea you can see the angle of the torque curve at 4500-5000rpm just goes south.

Basically you see that the compressor has reached its choke point. The other impact of that is that it's no longer running efficiently and is actually adding more heat to the charge. With a bigger compressor (and Turbine supporting it) the compressor can shift more air more efficiently and not add as much heat. So not only is the charge a bigger volume it's also cooler and more dense too.

The stock turbo is a TD04LR6-04HR.15TK31-60T. That's a reverse TD04L and has the smaller L turbine, while the Stage 2 unit has the turbine housing machined out to fit the TD04HL turbine. Also in Reverse.

Wheel Exducer (in.) Inducer (in.) Trim
TD04L.........1.62.....1.86....76
TD04HL.......1.80.....2.05....77

On the compressor side the Wheel goes from 15T to a much bigger custom billet compressor. The numbers I was given from Hexon are:

OEM BMW COMPRESSOR: 56/42mm trim: 56
HEXON COMPRESSOR: 60/48.5mm trim: 65

I don't have a compressor map for the Hexon, but you can see it's much larger then the OEM one. It certainly does deliver a lot more flow more efficiently and definitely is inside the choke point, even at the higher pressure ratio and flow. Also the billet wheel's inducer is close enough to the TD04HL turbine exducer so so it's pretty much right sized.

Now when I go to forged internals I'll probably be pushing this setup much closer to the choke point, and then may need to look at something else.