[RedBarron]

What do you all recommend? I may just run the BMW 0W-30 for a little more weight than the 20.

[eksigned]

Originally Posted by RedBarron

What do you all recommend? I may just run the BMW 0W-30 for a little more weight than the 20.

To each their own. I run Castrol 0W40 in Socal climates. People claim that it's too thick, but I read around BITOG here and there, and the consensus seems to be that the 40 weight is thinner than most. I also did a UOA that said the oil was doing well. It's on here somewhere if you'd like to peak.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...7#post24617357

[Frank Jia]

I personally recommend liquid moly 0w40 energy for daily and motul sport 5w40 for track day.

[G.Newt]

Any of the heavy duty diesel oils will work well. 5W-40. Most folks use Shell Rotella T6, Amazon makes some good stuff apparently. I'm probably going with Valvoline's diesel oil.
They have different additives than gasoline oil (but they're API SN/SM for gas engines too) so they have better cleaning properties. And it's a thicker oil that cold starts well in sub 0 degree weather.

[B58]

Originally Posted by G.Newt

Any of the heavy duty diesel oils will work well. 5W-40. Most folks use Shell Rotella T6, Amazon makes some good stuff apparently. I'm probably going with Valvoline's diesel oil.
They have different additives than gasoline oil (but they're API SN/SM for gas engines too) so they have better cleaning properties. And it's a thicker oil that cold starts well in sub 0 degree weather.

Diesel oil low key is the best, but it's hard convincing someone to use it haha. It has a nice grip on zinc that helps protect the moving parts.

[B58 parts]

I bought the OEM LL14 last time just because I couldn't figure out what else to put in. The parts girl said it's just penzzoil something something in an expensive bottle, which I have read elsewhere, but really who knows. It was $80 something for 7 bottles.

I'm open to going thicker but the winter months can be a problem. I don't care about LL as it's out by 7500 miles. The analysis was great so I'll probably stick with a good 0w20 just non BMW. Open to suggestions..

[G.Newt]

Originally Posted by YuminNuman

I bought the OEM LL14 last time just because I couldn't figure out what else to put in. The parts girl said it's just penzzoil something something in an expensive bottle, which I have read elsewhere, but really who knows. It was $80 something for 7 bottles.

I'm open to going thicker but the winter months can be a problem. I don't care about LL as it's out by 7500 miles. The analysis was great so I'll probably stick with a good 0w20 just non BMW. Open to suggestions..

0W-20 is a bit too thin for my tastes, especially now that I'm tuned. Someone's Blackstone lab report showed elevated levels of metals when using OEM 0W-20, usually tied to rod bearings. He was running more boost. The HTHS rating in LL-14 FE+ is also lower than LL-01 FE. Lower HTHS is for fuel economy and efficiency, higher HTHS is for durability.

So far my car has only seen LL-01 FE 0W-30 (while under warranty), but will be immediately switching to 5W-40 heavy duty diesel oil.

[MassNerd]

Interesting comment from the FCP Euro website on their B58 oil change kits:
"New BMW's fitted with BXX series engines "Require" 0W-20 LL14FE+ Rated oils. WE DO NOT RECOMMEND using this spec! The levels of protection LL14FE provides are much lower than LL01. The new formulation LL14FE is mainly designed with CAFE ratings, EPA requirements and fuel mileage in mind, NOT OVERALL PROTECTION."

Basically echoing what G.Newt said.

My manual says both LL01FE or LL14FE+. Guess I'll stick with the LL01FE.

[B58]

Originally Posted by G.Newt

0W-20 is a bit too thin for my tastes, especially now that I'm tuned. Someone's Blackstone lab report showed elevated levels of metals when using OEM 0W-20, usually tied to rod bearings. He was running more boost. The HTHS rating in LL-14 FE+ is also lower than LL-01 FE. Lower HTHS is for fuel economy and efficiency, higher HTHS is for durability.

So far my car has only seen LL-01 FE 0W-30 (while under warranty), but will be immediately switching to 5W-40 heavy duty diesel oil.

Are you going to use Shell Rotella T6?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rot...-1-qt/14958328

[G.Newt]

Originally Posted by B58

Are you going to use Shell Rotella T6?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rot...-1-qt/14958328

That's super expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Shell-Rotella...-1-spons&psc=1

Less than $60 for 3 gallons. That's almost enough for 2 oil changes.

I'll probably be getting Valvoline though: https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-Pre...s%2C162&sr=8-4

Reason? I've heard that Shell reformulated Rotella T6 awhile back to have less ZDDP, which is what made it desirable in the first place.

Valvoline actually posts some of that detail in their product info doc: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publi...2-ac162d889bd1


I can clearly see their oil has ~1300 zinc ppm and 1150 phosphorus. That's right at about the levels of old Rotella T6: http://www.pqiamerica.com/June%20201...lrotellat6.htm

Also, Valvoline has an API SN rating. Rotella T6 does not. This doesn't really mean jack shit to me because it's all just marketing and licensing, but something about the peace of mind of having that label. Call me crazy

[G.Newt]

Originally Posted by YuminNuman

I bought the OEM LL14 last time just because I couldn't figure out what else to put in. The parts girl said it's just penzzoil something something in an expensive bottle, which I have read elsewhere, but really who knows. It was $80 something for 7 bottles.

I'm open to going thicker but the winter months can be a problem. I don't care about LL as it's out by 7500 miles. The analysis was great so I'll probably stick with a good 0w20 just non BMW. Open to suggestions..

Go with the diesel oils lol. If you're worried about cold starts in the winter, the Valvoline oil actually exceeds the CCS standard for 0W oil viscosity at -35 Celsius, even though it's a 5W. It'll keep your engine head clean and help lengthen the life of your rod bearings.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/coldcrank.htm
Most heavy duty diesel oils will be around 6,000, which is under the 6,200 maximum for 0W oil.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by G.Newt

Go with the diesel oils lol. If you're worried about cold starts in the winter, the Valvoline oil actually exceeds the CCS standard for 0W oil viscosity at -35 Celsius, even though it's a 5W. It'll keep your engine head clean and help lengthen the life of your rod bearings.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/coldcrank.htm
Most heavy duty diesel oils will be around 6,000, which is under the 6,200 maximum for 0W oil.

Castrol Edge European Formula 0W-40 in black 5-qt jug for $25.xx at Walmart. Meets BMW LongLife-01 spec.

[D's Bimmer]

So, having read this feed, what oil brand and spec is recommended?

I have a 2016 340xi with a Stage II tune from MG Flasher. I also have 100 000kms on my odometer if that maters.

My mechanic asked whether I had heard about a different oil given the engine will run hotter with a tune.

Appreciate any recommendations.

Thanks!

[G.Newt]

Originally Posted by D's Bimmer

So, having read this feed, what oil brand and spec is recommended?

I have a 2016 340xi with a Stage II tune from MG Flasher. I also have 100 000kms on my odometer if that maters.

My mechanic asked whether I had heard about a different oil given the engine will run hotter with a tune.

Appreciate any recommendations.

Thanks!

Having read this thread, you should feel more informed to make a decision. I laid down facts with supporting documents. The rest is up to you to decide.

[eksigned]

Originally Posted by YuminNuman

I bought the OEM LL14 last time just because I couldn't figure out what else to put in. The parts girl said it's just penzzoil something something in an expensive bottle, which I have read elsewhere, but really who knows. It was $80 something for 7 bottles.

I'm open to going thicker but the winter months can be a problem. I don't care about LL as it's out by 7500 miles. The analysis was great so I'll probably stick with a good 0w20 just non BMW. Open to suggestions..

Would you mind sharing the UOA?

[David0ff]

Can't go wrong with T6.
Over the past 10+ years it has been the blood of my many cars and bikes (Kms on T6)
-E90 N52 (180 000)
-s2000 F20C (30 000)
-rx7 13b-rew (60 000)
-e36 M44 (150 000)
-K4 GSXR 1k (50 000)
-integra k20 (50 000)

[Mkswoosh]

So LL01 is for durability compared to the new regulation LL14/17. Went to Walmart today and couldn't find LL01 on any bottle. I must of missed it though.

Planning doing my own oil change in between the dealership warranty oil change 10k/year system. Are most liking the 0w30 over 0w20 for our b58?

[Stampe]

Hello everyone
After reading on various forums about what to put on my 340i 2018 after 8000 km. Have I recently bought castrol edge fst 0-30 ll-04 and mount one of the next days.
The car is driving in EU DK. I hope I have taken the best choice for durability and for sporty driving.
I have a look at the following link

https://babybmw.net/viewtopic.php?f=...2c79a60cecb0ed

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...engine/1PSryV8

[paulb15480]

I have a 2017 340i that is completely stock, other than the MPPSK that I ordered with the car when I purchased it. I currently have 40,000 miles on it and have been changing the oil/filter every 5000 miles since the car was new. The dealer did the oil changes at 10,000, 20,000, and 30,000 miles and I have been doing the other ones. In all cases I took (or had the dealer take) an oil sample that I sent to Blackstone Labs for analysis. When I have been changing the oil I have been using BMW LL14FE 0w20 and I am not sure, but I believe the dealer has been using 0w30.

I don't drive my car extremely hard all the time, but living in the southern US I have driven in temperatures from low teens in the winter to well over 100 degrees in the summer. I have been known to cruise down the highway on 400 mile road trips at speeds exceeding the posted limit by a healthy amount on 100 degree days. I have also seen 145 mph on a closed airport runway or two. So the car isn't driven solely to church on Sunday by a little old lady!

The key in all of this to me is the fact I have done an oil analysis on every oil change and the analysis has shown virtually no wear over the current 40,000 miles on the engine. The level of metal in the oil is virtually 0 after every oil change and has been consistent whether 0w30 or 0w20 has been in the engine. Blackstone consistently comments that this engine is showing to be extremely healthy and consistent over its lifetime, and is consistently lower in measurable "oil contamination" and wear markers compared to other similar engines.

So these are my experiences FWIW.

[G.Newt]

Originally Posted by paulb15480

I have a 2017 340i that is completely stock, other than the MPPSK that I ordered with the car when I purchased it. I currently have 40,000 miles on it and have been changing the oil/filter every 5000 miles since the car was new. The dealer did the oil changes at 10,000, 20,000, and 30,000 miles and I have been doing the other ones. In all cases I took (or had the dealer take) an oil sample that I sent to Blackstone Labs for analysis. When I have been changing the oil I have been using BMW LL14FE 0w20 and I am not sure, but I believe the dealer has been using 0w30.

I don't drive my car extremely hard all the time, but living in the southern US I have driven in temperatures from low teens in the winter to well over 100 degrees in the summer. I have been known to cruise down the highway on 400 mile road trips at speeds exceeding the posted limit by a healthy amount on 100 degree days. I have also seen 145 mph on a closed airport runway or two. So the car isn't driven solely to church on Sunday by a little old lady!

The key in all of this to me is the fact I have done an oil analysis on every oil change and the analysis has shown virtually no wear over the current 40,000 miles on the engine. The level of metal in the oil is virtually 0 after every oil change and has been consistent whether 0w30 or 0w20 has been in the engine. Blackstone consistently comments that this engine is showing to be extremely healthy and consistent over its lifetime, and is consistently lower in measurable "oil contamination" and wear markers compared to other similar engines.

So these are my experiences FWIW.

You're also not running an aftermarket tune. Someone that had been running JB4 for awhile got an OA done on 0W-20 and ended up with rod bearing wear. Sorry, but it's a fact that the HSTS rating for 0W-30 is higher than that of 0W-20.

Although your diligent oil changes and analysis show that 0W-20 is more than likely fine for MPPSK or stock cars that change them every 5k, which is valuable.

[J3Vr6]

When doing oil changes at the dealership, could you actually ask them to put in a different oil than spec (like 5w-40)?

[B58]

I'm running Liqui Moly 5w40 right now.