[theothernguyen]

Originally Posted by Bomcool96

I had this issue 2 months ago on my 320D (F30) 2013, I had the error code for a while and I checked the bulbs and switched them over but solve the issue, I checked everyrhing again and nocied the middle pin was snapped and burnt but all the other ones where fine what was strange, I called BMW and got a replacement for the same price as ebay's cheapiest (about £37 if I can rember correcly) This solved the issue and they also said about buying the replacement wireing kit if needed, But I said I will get back to them if this doesn't solve my issue or it happnes again, But it seems fine,

I looked online again and fount your post as I want to know if there is a grounding issue or just water mabe in the electrics somewhere?

Any update on solutions would be awsome!!!

This is the work around here that I found for the F30 for the eroded contact and grounding issue... scroll past the original fix for the e46 (you will need to read the original as well) and you will see pictures of the F30 housing unit and the grounding bypass.

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpo...&postcount=334

[Cs77]

Hello
Same issue on my F.30 2012.
First I have problems with parking lights,first left,bulb looks good but I change it...few days later right parking light,change it...and again and again.I noticed before that my left tail light is not light as right.I put it out and I see that housing around third pin is melted.I will take my car to car electrician to change connector.I hope that I will solve problems with that.

[Billfitz]

Changing the connector is a temporary fix, if it burned out once it will burn out again. The only permanent solution is to either perform the previously explained fix of the ground so it will handle the current of the original bulbs or changing to LED bulbs to reduce the current.

[KillshotVisuals]

This is my first time posting in this forum even though I have always found great answers to most of my car related issues on here. I did this repair on my 2013 BMW 335i yesterday and decided to just film it to hopefully help others who were in the same boat as me. I am by no means an expert so if I did anything wrong or inefficiently, I don't mind constructive criticism. Hope this helps at least a few people

I am also planning on doing a very in depth write up about the issue when I have a little more time but for now, all I have is the video. If you are very familiar with removing the brake light assembly, know which parts to purchase, and know for a fact that your connector is melted, skip to 6:10 to avoid unnecessary talking and get straight to the repair. Thanks guys!

[theothernguyen]

Originally Posted by KillshotVisuals

This is my first time posting in this forum even though I have always found great answers to most of my car related issues on here. I did this repair on my 2013 BMW 335i yesterday and decided to just film it to hopefully help others who were in the same boat as me. I am by no means an expert so if I did anything wrong or inefficiently, I don't mind constructive criticism. Hope this helps at least a few people

I am also planning on doing a very in depth write up about the issue when I have a little more time but for now, all I have is the video. If you are very familiar with removing the brake light assembly, know which parts to purchase, and know for a fact that your connector is melted, skip to 6:10 to avoid unnecessary talking and get straight to the repair. Thanks guys!

Great video! I wish this was around when I was fixing my tail light a few years ago. I also left this comment on the YT comments as well for others to reference.

Looking at how you did it (and how I did it), you don't really need to buy a NEW bulb socket or socket repair kit. You can use your existing socket/housing and just buy only the female quick disconnect and 14 gauge wire. Simply expose the brown (ground wire), and connect that ground to the white wire that you bought and run it like you did in the rest of the video, connecting the white cable to the metal tab you pried up.

The part at 17:38 where you pried up the metal piece, that is the male connector that would have otherwise connected to your newly made brown/ground connection. So pulling that metal tab up makes the earlier socket repair/repinning process pointless unless when the pin got burned and melted that it damaged the adjacent pins. You would save yourself some money and extra steps.

Cheers!

[jared21927]

Did this repair today with the old connector and bulb socket. Worked like a charm. I ordered a new socket and connector yesterday but it looks like I can return them now. Definitely was going to leave the car parked until I got this fixed so I appreciate this thread.

[305f30]

So I took my '13 F30 to my mechanic yesterday for some minor maintenance work. While there I had him check out my malfunctioning rear tail light only to find out that my connector had a melted pin as well. I've been looking at buying a new tail light as well as connector, but hopefully I can save some $ by trying this fix. Also can anybody recommend a good way to seal the bulb holder?? I saw some condensation forming on it when I removed the bulbs. Thanks!

[jared21927]

Originally Posted by 305f30

So I took my '13 F30 to my mechanic yesterday for some minor maintenance work. While there I had him check out my malfunctioning rear tail light only to find out that my connector had a melted pin as well. I've been looking at buying a new tail light as well as connector, but hopefully I can save some $ by trying this fix. Also can anybody recommend a good way to seal the bulb holder?? I saw some condensation forming on it when I removed the bulbs. Thanks!

Use some dielectric grease on your bulbs and connectors. May not prevent condensation but will prevent moisture from damaging your electronics

[Billfitz]

That's SOP. The trouble is that if corrosion was the problem then it would be happening with the hot pins as well. It only happens with the ground pin because it handles current to both bulbs and it's not up to the job.

[305f30]

Originally Posted by jared21927

Use some dielectric grease on your bulbs and connectors. May not prevent condensation but will prevent moisture from damaging your electronics

Thanks! Got the bad connector replaced a few days ago and tmrw I'll be switching over to all LEDs in the rear Hopefully that'll reduce the load on the ground wire.

[Billfitz]

It should prevent the problem, LEDs draw maybe 1/10 the current that incandescent do. Reading about these blown sockets in part convinced me to go all LED.

[305f30]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

It should prevent the problem, LEDs draw maybe 1/10 the current that incandescent do. Reading about these blown sockets in part convinced me to go all LED.

I completed the switch to full LEDs in the rear yesterday and Im very happy with the outcome. In addition to minimizing problems with the harness melting again, it just makes the car look alot more Up To-Date than those old school halogens!

[Billfitz]

The safer too, because they light far faster than incandescent. Regular bulbs have to heat the filaments to produce light, which takes time. LEDs don't have lag time. The sooner the guy behind you sees your brake or turn signal lights the sooner he can react to them.

[grey_guzman]

The fix that theothernguyen works perfectly and is inexpensive. Thanks for the post! My 2013 320i had this exact problem. I attached two pictures, sorry they might not be the best angles. in the picture with all the tools the bulb piece can be seen in the bottom right.

Side notes for F30:
You will need to break of the metal plating on the bulb side to connect to it. I actually used a soldering iron carefully and briefly to melt the plastic that held the metal down.

I cut the brown cable completely, Ive seen some people just strip the wire and connect the new wire to it.

There is conveniently a soft lighter colored piece of plastic that you will need to cut a whole in. This will be used to thread the new wire from on side to the other. This can be seen in the picture that shows the unit connected. The red cable is the new cable and you can see the piece of plastic I am talking about.

Update:
Excuse the language in the quote in the picture, I was a little frustrated with this design flaw.

[DJSF3014]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Changing the connector is a temporary fix, if it burned out once it will burn out again. The only permanent solution is to either perform the previously explained fix of the ground so it will handle the current of the original bulbs or changing to LED bulbs to reduce the current.

What should I do if it says left rear brake light malfunction but none of the connectors are fried? Looked at all of them yesterday all the lights work it still pops up.

[jared21927]

Originally Posted by DJSF3014

What should I do if it says left rear brake light malfunction but none of the connectors are fried? Looked at all of them yesterday all the lights work it still pops up.

Your bulb socket is probably loose. Check the socket and pull the metal tab up that the bulb sits on. Maybe even place some rubber underneath. Just need to make that connection tighter..... That's probably your issue.

[jwamb073]

Hi

Do you mind sharing pics of how you did this? I am having the same issue. I am new to this site. Thanks

Originally Posted by Rebound

This happened to me on my 2014. Seems to be a common problem with BMW’s. In my case (and it looks the same on this car), it was the brown ground pin which cooked. Probably the interconnect in the connector is just not thick enough and it cooks, just like a burnt fuse. On my car, the ground is shared with the brake light and the turn signal. To repair it, I took a little bit of speaker cable and soldered it to the metal inside the housing. You need to scrape the metal a bit to roughen it for the solder to adhere. Once the wire is soldered, now you have a nice, thick ground which won’t fail. But, you need to get to through to where that connector is. In my housing, near that connector, there’s a small white cap which is removable. Pretty sure the purpose is to allow condensation to dry out without letting water in. If you pull this white cap off, you can thread the wire through, then replace the white cap.

Then I bought a simple spade lug male and female connector. I crimped one to the new wire I soldered in. Then, I pulled the wire from the “cooked” connector and crimped the other spade connector to that wire. Install the housing, attach the stock wire connector, and connect your two spade lug connectors. This way, you can easily disconnect the wires in the future when you need to replace a bulb.

A few months later, I took the car to the dealer for service and they replaced it all under warranty with stock parts, but I’m certain that my repair was far more durable than stock. I have some pictures but can’t attach them now. PM me if you’d like to see them or if you need more clear details.

[theothernguyen]

Originally Posted by jwamb073

Hi

Do you mind sharing pics of how you did this? I am having the same issue. I am new to this site. Thanks

Please read the last few pages... It's all there

[F-16]

even later to the party but i have news for f32 and f33 fix.

[F-16]

Originally Posted by theothernguyen

Hey guys,

sorry a little late to the party.. but I have a cheap and easy DIY solution.

I encountered the exact same problem on my 2014 F30, got the rapid turn blinker error (other searched terms are turn signal rapid blinking or tail light triple blink or fast blinking), and I found the DIY fix in the e46 forum, and did a similar variation of the fix and posted about it there. ... I was too lazy to make a dedicated post on this forum, but I will link to the original post and my fix with photos. seems like the problem was corrosion of the ground wire.

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpo...&postcount=334

hopefully it helps someone in the future! Save a few hundred from out of warranty repairs (they wanted to replaced the whole housing unit and connector)

cheers!

a modified fix for F33 (and most probably for F32) I took 2 pictures. new to forum so will figure uploading pics soon.

[Ashhong]

It’s fucking criminal that this issue, which was recalled on their E46 cars, still exists on cars over a decade later. How is that ok?? Majority of people will go to the dealer, pay for a new connector, and have the problem all over again.

Thanks for the fixes all

[Brewer146]

So grateful for this site and all of your helpful suggestions. I purchased my '14 428i two weeks ago and just last weekend I began having the rear tail light issues described here. I did the usual bulb swaps and when that failed I turned to this site and boy am I glad I did. Thanks for the help and saving me $$$ since this is pretty much a fifth grade science assignment I can pull off on my own.