[jagnweiner]

Hello, all. I'm new to the forum and new to BMWs. I'm kind of a car guy, but mostly older stuff.

Anyway, I'm interested in 328d wagons and have spotted a few for sale within a state or two of where I'm located on the IL/IA border. Planning to test drive one when I'm up in Minneapolis this weekend to visit my brother. In doing research about the model, the only big concern I have is the transfer case issue. I have read a few of the threads here, including Enabled's detailed thread about a vibration mitigation strategy.

A couple questions: (1) If I proactively do the mod Enabled describes with the Loctite and rubber guibo (sp?) is there a decent chance of avoiding problems? (2) Does the problem seem to be mostly confined to the 2014 and early 2015 models? I see in the database there's only a few 2016 models that have had the problems.

Thanks in advance for any input. This looks like a great forum.

Regards,
Scott

[Enabled]

I think the transfer case output flange issue may start showing up on the newer cars too. It's possible to be biased because they're not aged enough.
The single difference is a smaller diameter bolt circle and the rubber flex disk on the facelift cars.

Can't speak for the longevity of the fix, but the vibration theory on a non-pressed flange still holds up. Preventing the vibration damage is important to its longevity.
I was going to look into TIG welding, but the material is just too thin and there is way too much to damage from the heat, plus warping. So spline Loctite is the next best choice.
At least with the Loctite there is a decent chance at removing it.


I did the Loctite fix on a brand new transfer case 16,000 miles ago. No rubber giubo yet. I have to do my rear brakes soon, so I will get the car on the lift and inspect flange closely.
I may do the rubber giubo now.

(FWIW I have sourced an additional transfer case in good condition since, for more understanding and learning)

[jagnweiner]

Thanks for the reply! I appreciate it.

The one I'm test driving in Minneapolis is a 2015 model, but appears to be made in 2014. One owner with 90K miles and roughly $18K. Carfax shows one owner and multiple dealer service visits, but no transfer case work (although a number of the service visits have no info about what was done). There's 2016 in KC with only 73K miles for about $20K. I don't have any history on that one yet. Trying to decide if one year newer (post LCI) and fewer miles are worth extra $. Admittedly, the color scheme on the 2016 car is much more to my liking.

Thanks,
Scott

[Hammer Werke]

How difficult of a job is replacing my 2015 metal guibo with new a rubber one? What do you estimate a shop's labor would be?

thank you.

Originally Posted by Enabled

I think the transfer case output flange issue may start showing up on the newer cars too. It's possible to be biased because they're not aged enough.
The single difference is a smaller diameter bolt circle and the rubber flex disk on the facelift cars.

Can't speak for the longevity of the fix, but the vibration theory on a non-pressed flange still holds up. Preventing the vibration damage is important to its longevity.
I was going to look into TIG welding, but the material is just too thin and there is way too much to damage from the heat, plus warping. So spline Loctite is the next best choice.
At least with the Loctite there is a decent chance at removing it.


I did the Loctite fix on a brand new transfer case 16,000 miles ago. No rubber giubo yet. I have to do my rear brakes soon, so I will get the car on the lift and inspect flange closely.
I may do the rubber giubo now.

(FWIW I have sourced an additional transfer case in good condition since, for more understanding and learning)

[OneLapper]

Before you buy the car, check the build date on the TC. It's visible. If its close to the build date of the car, it's orginal.

The original TC failed at 86k miles. The replacement TC failed at 166k miles.

If you buy 328d, plan on replacing the TC. It's not a big job, but it's a job that should never be needing done. I've said it before, BMW should be embarrassed.

I got 600k out of my last car. I planned on driving this car for 500k. There is no way this car will last that long without two or three donor cars.

[jagnweiner]

Originally Posted by OneLapper

Before you buy the car, check the build date on the TC. It's visible. If its close to the build date of the car, it's original.

OneLapper-

Thanks for the input. I ended up buying the 2016, but I just saw your reply, so I was not able to check the TC date. I have no reason not to think the TC is original. I spoke to the BMW service manager who serviced the car its entire life, and he said they had not done any transfer case work.

Aside from nagging fears about the TC and a non-functioning nav system, I love the car so far.

-Scott

[swissarmyknife]

I bought mine from a BMW dealership with 103k miles on it. They agreed to put a drive train warranty on it for the next 24kmiles just to give me some piece of mind, but now that I put 5k on it on my own I will schedule an appointment with a local shop to perform the work that Enabled outlined on one of his posts.

The shop quoted me ~450 for the labor, I'll provide the parts (loctite and rubber giubo). Hopefully the spline isn't too far gone at which point I might leave it alone and hope it will fail before the 24k miles are gone.

[Enabled]

I don't think you'll see much wear in 5k miles.

Make sure they do the rubber giubo conversion correctly! There is a small procedure to get it done right:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...shaft/1Loe7egW

[swissarmyknife]

Originally Posted by Enabled

I don't think you'll see much wear in 5k miles.

Make sure they do the rubber giubo conversion correctly! There is a small procedure to get it done right:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...shaft/1Loe7egW

I'll make sure to point that out to the mechanic. The 5k was more of a way for me to get a feel for the car. I have no actual service records, but the dealer said this car has the original TC in it, though not sure if that is just a bunch a baloney to put me at ease. The fact they offered 24k on a car with over 100k was surprising, so hoping they stand behind their product when rubber hits the road.

[Onizukachan]

Originally Posted by jagnweiner

Thanks for the reply! I appreciate it.

The one I'm test driving in Minneapolis is a 2015 model, but appears to be made in 2014. One owner with 90K miles and roughly $18K. Carfax shows one owner and multiple dealer service visits, but no transfer case work (although a number of the service visits have no info about what was done). There's 2016 in KC with only 73K miles for about $20K. I don't have any history on that one yet. Trying to decide if one year newer (post LCI) and fewer miles are worth extra $. Admittedly, the color scheme on the 2016 car is much more to my liking.

Thanks,
Scott

that’s way way too much. I bought my Msport last September with 56k for 20 grand. Had a few stone chips and a couple scratches but I am driving it and not showing it so that was fine by me. I’ve had the “original paint” tape everything up to drive it syndrome before, didn’t want that this time!

Found several m sport 2015 and 2016 in the 50k or less range priced from 18-24 grand. You might consider looking towards Cali where they are much more plentiful and extremely unlikely to have been exposed to salt etc every winter. The better pricing and selection might make it worth taking a $99 flight to San Fran or LAX after someone does a good PPI.

[Onizukachan]

Sorry didn’t see you bought it! Everyone thought I was crazy for buying out of state and insisting on a 2015 f31d Msport with black Dakota, nav and hud, but we all have different desires and needs!
I can be of any help feel free to pm!

[jagnweiner]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

Sorry didn’t see you bought it!

No problem. I negotiated a price that worked for me and had a friend who happened to be traveling to KC inspect and drive it for me. Then I took a train down to KC in the evening and drove it back the next day. So far very pleased.