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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N47 and N57 Turbodiesel Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Odd trembling problem around 2k RPM
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      12-20-2021, 07:56 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morrob95 View Post
I just figured my issue out today, check the above post, that might be your issue too! My crank case vent wasn't hooked up. Tried to hook it up and the brittle plastic BMW used just disintegrated. Ended up replacing with a hose and all is FINALLY well!

edit: unless you're referring to the remote issue which I still haven't figured out just yet
Hmm that is interesting. I don't know what the CCV looks like or where it is. Looking at my engine bay I see this thing:

https://files.catbox.moe/8aidds.png

Is that it? I notice that there appears to be oil / soot on it towards the bottom.
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      12-20-2021, 09:13 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by cezar22 View Post
Hmm that is interesting. I don't know what the CCV looks like or where it is. Looking at my engine bay I see this thing:

https://files.catbox.moe/8aidds.png

Is that it? I notice that there appears to be oil / soot on it towards the bottom.
Yup, that's it! Mine literally fell apart when I touched it. What I ended up doing was finding a radiator hose, taking the plastic junk off and making a new hose after I cleaned up all the oil. Super solid now. Yours might be in better shape since you have less miles though, mines at 155k. But if you have oil seeping out then I'd suspect you're In a Similar boat as I was, maybe slightly less severe.

Also, at the bottom off that hose you'll have some wires plugged into a sensor(?). What I did was removed it and cleaned it really well before reinstall because mine was caked with oil.
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      12-20-2021, 09:15 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
Hesitation makes sense yes, but from your description of the problem, the trembling, then no, that wouldn't be related.

You may have inadvertently found another problem while looking for it.
I really hope you didn't ingest too much sand and particles, or else your turbo compressor blades will look quite beat up.
It felt more like the car was missing I suppose, but only at that 2k rpm range. I did touch the turbine and check for play and all seemed well, it was really clean as well. I don't know what the average life of these turbos are but it's not broken yet. I'm just glad that it's driving like new again! Meanwhile they key problem seemingly had gotten worse. I reckon I'm gonna bring it somewhere to have it diagnosed.
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      12-20-2021, 09:29 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morrob95 View Post
It felt more like the car was missing I suppose, but only at that 2k rpm range. I did touch the turbine and check for play and all seemed well, it was really clean as well. I don't know what the average life of these turbos are but it's not broken yet. I'm just glad that it's driving like new again! Meanwhile they key problem seemingly had gotten worse. I reckon I'm gonna bring it somewhere to have it diagnosed.
That tube is fragile for sure. Mine got replaced with the whole intake tube during the EGR cooler recall, so it's new at least.
Extra air from there wouldn't cause a misfire, but it can be related to the boost implausibility you were seeing at least. I expect that code to go away.

For the key,the next step would be looking at the antenna under the center console / cup holder area.
I think there is an ISTA test plan for the antennas.


Does your car easily recognize the key when you use the comfort entry door handle or trunk access when locked but key in pocket?

The key communicates a lot of data with the car, and it stores quite a lot too... so I'm betting the key itself knows the battery level.
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      12-20-2021, 10:05 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morrob95 View Post
Yup, that's it! Mine literally fell apart when I touched it. What I ended up doing was finding a radiator hose, taking the plastic junk off and making a new hose after I cleaned up all the oil. Super solid now. Yours might be in better shape since you have less miles though, mines at 155k. But if you have oil seeping out then I'd suspect you're In a Similar boat as I was, maybe slightly less severe.

Also, at the bottom off that hose you'll have some wires plugged into a sensor(?). What I did was removed it and cleaned it really well before reinstall because mine was caked with oil.
Okay cool.

I would prefer to just replace the part with OEM. Having trouble finding it on RealOEM though. Does anyone know the part #?

EDIT: Is it this whole assembly (that can't be bought piecemeal) -- 13718574783

$200, gawd.

Last edited by cezar22; 12-20-2021 at 10:13 AM..
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      12-20-2021, 11:18 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
That tube is fragile for sure. Mine got replaced with the whole intake tube during the EGR cooler recall, so it's new at least.
Extra air from there wouldn't cause a misfire, but it can be related to the boost implausibility you were seeing at least. I expect that code to go away.

For the key,the next step would be looking at the antenna under the center console / cup holder area.
I think there is an ISTA test plan for the antennas.


Does your car easily recognize the key when you use the comfort entry door handle or trunk access when locked but key in pocket?

The key communicates a lot of data with the car, and it stores quite a lot too... so I'm betting the key itself knows the battery level.
Yup, thinking I need to tear that center console area apart and see if the antenna got something spilt on it. ISTA only told me to check the aerial antenna near the steering column which checked out fine. My car doesn't have the comfort access for putting your hand on the door and having it unlock unfortunately, just the keyless start. My range is absolutely terrible too outside the car, except for when I unlock the car. When I unlock, I can unlock from a good ways away the first time but when I go to lock it I have to have the key right near the back window. Same thing for the trunk popper, gotta have the key right near the rear window. I found a kind of shitty diagram showing there are multiple antennas on the rear deck, maybe one of them failed? First thing I'll tear into is definitely the antenna under the cupholder. The car starts with the key in the cupholder or the backseat, just not in my pocket or in my hand in the driver's seat.

Last edited by Morrob95; 12-20-2021 at 11:26 AM..
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      12-20-2021, 11:20 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cezar22 View Post
Okay cool.

I would prefer to just replace the part with OEM. Having trouble finding it on RealOEM though. Does anyone know the part #?

EDIT: Is it this whole assembly (that can't be bought piecemeal) -- 13718574783

$200, gawd.
That's it. For me, I just took the plastic tube off and put a big radiator hose with two hose clamps. WAY more robust than that crappy brittle plastic that was factory. It's hidden anyway, can't really see it. I'll get a picture in a sec

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      12-20-2021, 12:54 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morrob95 View Post
That's it. For me, I just took the plastic tube off and put a big radiator hose with two hose clamps. WAY more robust than that crappy brittle plastic that was factory. It's hidden anyway, can't really see it. I'll get a picture in a sec

I think I want to try out your repair, both to save money on the assembly and to avoid having to remove the whole thing.

Can you give me the cliffs notes on the steps you took to replace the hose? I don't need my hand held but the basic steps would be really helpful.
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      12-20-2021, 01:53 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by cezar22 View Post
I think I want to try out your repair, both to save money on the assembly and to avoid having to remove the whole thing.

Can you give me the cliffs notes on the steps you took to replace the hose? I don't need my hand held but the basic steps would be really helpful.
Sure

Remove your intake (just lookup a guide, I ripped mine out since I was going aftermarket)

Then you'll be able to see it real easy after you get the tube off your turbo. You'll see at the bottom of that tube is a sensor with wires.. what I did was broke the plastic crap tube off all the way, then cut the little connector off the top side (just to seal better with the hose), slide the hose over instead of inside and hose clamped. It sounds more complicated than it is, whole thing takes about 5-10 minutes. When I say cut the clip/connector it's just to smoothe out the surface to get a good deal with the hose. I don't recall the inner diameter of the hose I got but I just brought the tube to AutoZone and found a rad hose that was about an 1/8th inch larger than the tube so it slid over both sides of the remaining pieces.


On the pic below, blue is where your new hose goes and slides over the circled green areas. Also the top green circle is the clip thing I smoothed out. Then I just zip ties the wire somewhere else close. Put hose clamps where the green circles are and you'll be good to go! Hope it helps man.

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      12-20-2021, 02:14 PM   #32
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That is exactly what I was looking for, thanks!

I'll update once I get around to doing the repair. Might be a bit as it's extremely cold here.
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      12-20-2021, 03:52 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cezar22 View Post
Okay cool.

I would prefer to just replace the part with OEM. Having trouble finding it on RealOEM though. Does anyone know the part #?

EDIT: Is it this whole assembly (that can't be bought piecemeal) -- 13718574783

$200, gawd.
See my log here.
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      12-20-2021, 03:59 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Hmm. I'm not totally clear on what all you did here, specifically with this heating element and how you shortened the hose.

Question: Should I just man up and buy 13717823517 and figure it out? Is it one of those things that once I have the stuff in front of me it will make sense?

Is that all I would need as far as parts?
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      12-21-2021, 11:01 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
Hesitation makes sense yes, but from your description of the problem, the trembling, then no, that wouldn't be related.

You may have inadvertently found another problem while looking for it.
I really hope you didn't ingest too much sand and particles, or else your turbo compressor blades will look quite beat up.
Just found out the problem with the key fob. A post from 2014 described cheap phone chargers causing interference. Unplugged my Amazon special charger and all of sudden it's working just fine. That's annoying, I've been trying to figure it out for the last year!

Edit: Nevermind, it started doing it again.

Last edited by Morrob95; 12-21-2021 at 03:23 PM..
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      12-21-2021, 12:23 PM   #36
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That's really interesting and good info! New one for me.
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      12-21-2021, 02:33 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cezar22 View Post
Hmm. I'm not totally clear on what all you did here, specifically with this heating element and how you shortened the hose.

Question: Should I just man up and buy 13717823517 and figure it out? Is it one of those things that once I have the stuff in front of me it will make sense?

Is that all I would need as far as parts?
Buy cheap $15 hose part. Cut bottom of $15 hose part with a knife/razor/whatever to match original corrugated hose length. Insert into rubber coupler that connects corrugated hose to heating element. Done!
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      12-21-2021, 03:22 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
That's really interesting and good info! New one for me.
Well turns out I lied, that wasnt it. Its doing it still. Tomorrow I'll take taking the center console apart and looking for the antenna. Whats discerning to me though is the car not wanting to lock when I'm outside the car but working just fine on the initial unlock when I'm 15-25 feet away. And the initial unlock ALWAYS works. But when I get in the car, all of a sudden key not detected and when I shut the car off and get out, I have to click lock probably 15 times near the rear window for it to work.
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      12-22-2021, 10:05 AM   #39
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I wonder if that key is simply dying?
Has it gone through a wash or submerged for a long time? They're sealed, but still.


I don't recall if you have a spare key that does the same?
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      12-23-2021, 12:00 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
I wonder if that key is simply dying?
Has it gone through a wash or submerged for a long time? They're sealed, but still.


I don't recall if you have a spare key that does the same?
Yeah spare key does the exact same thing and both have new batteries, one has a new battery from BMW dealership. Somebody reached out to me and said maybe the CAS module is dying. You'd think id have some sort of error popping up in ISTA by now though. The only thing ISTA shows is an AUC sensor short to ground which from what I've found is something to do with a pollutant/fresh air sensor. Reckon I should just suck it up and pay diagnostic fee at a dealership? The local indy wanted to charge me 8 hours to even take a look at it and hinted at them making a key regardless of both my current keys having the same issue. Seemed spendy.
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      12-23-2021, 12:07 PM   #41
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CAS module doesn't exist in that car. It's an FEM, and you'd have codes, but considering they're $600 new, I'd look at antenna issues first.


With a locked car, going to the trunk to open it from the trunk button, does it recognize the key and open for you?

There are multiple antennas and they can be unplugged and moved around as needed.
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      02-06-2023, 08:11 PM   #42
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To one of the initial Morrob95 was talking towards - the shuddering noticed in certain RPM ranges. I've been thinking about checking + replacing my Center Support Bearing and was curious what people thought of this aftermarket upgrade: https://www.jxbperformance.com/produ...arrier-upgrade

Feels like it would be a good upgrade based on videos and the noted play they show.
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      04-16-2023, 02:51 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cezar22 View Post
That is exactly what I was looking for, thanks!

I'll update once I get around to doing the repair. Might be a bit as it's extremely cold here.
A bit is two years apparently. Got this pipe replaced with a bit of radiator hose.

I really struggled to figure out how to do it because there is some sort of sensor or something at the intake side and it goes basically:

crappy crazy straw tube -> rubbery hose bit -> sensor.

I ended up just using a hose that had the right I.D. to fit entirely over the hose bit and fit on the engine end as well, with hose clamps on both sides. I ran into another issue where the thickness of the hose clamp prevented some sensor thinggy on the engine side from being able to connect. I ended up just running the clamp all the way around the sensor connector AND the hose. Obviously this is not as tight of a connection this way but it worked. I suspect, at least at the engine side, most people have enough crazy straw tube left to hook on to but that seems like a worse repair than what I did.

Overall not super happy with the repair method, but it's working. The car feels better, maybe it's just placebo, but it just feels more 'together' with this and a mild flutter noise I occasionally heard, that I had chalked up to valvetrain noise or turbo noise, is gone.

This crazy straw hose piece is baffling to me. Literally every single other air line in the engine bay is rubber, and then BMW used this crap plastic on the CCV line. Bizarre.

A lot of really odd engineering choices in this car. Some of which are good--for example I have worked on trucks with less room under the hood-- and some of which are awful, like the under-tray fastener design.

The car feels like it was designed by 5-6 different companies, not one.
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