[kern417]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

I think OEM is good to full bolt on pump gas (4-450) but beyond that you are going to start skipping eventually.

Mike

Thanks. At stage 1 93 I dyno'd 398whp, so after I switched to E30 I'm guessing 410-420whp. I ran it for several months without issue. I'll wait to go stage 2 until I get a clutch. I'm only at 11k miles but I plan on going full E85 in the future. Probably not worth seeing how much the stock clutch can hold and potentially ruining the flywheel.

[RedLeather]

[QUOTE=akgambino;25450616]

Originally Posted by RedLeather

Very interesting, in similar threads in the n55 section people were convinced that the CDV has nothing to do with clutch slipping. I always suspected it would be worth a shot deleting the CDV before jumping head first into a full clutch upgrade.
So you for sure think it solved clutch slipping in your instance?

Yeah I'm not sure what convinced them, unless they wanted to justify money they already spent on a clutch upgrade.

I don't think, I know with 100% certainty that it solved the clutch slipping issue...

The CDV has been out for several months now and has not slipped once. I've been running MHD Stage 2+ 95 octane (using a Boostane mixture) since I removed it. Before, with the CDV in, I could not make a single trip using that map without the clutch slipping at one point or another.

[kern417]

Originally Posted by RedLeather

Yeah I'm not sure what convinced them, unless they wanted to justify money they already spent on a clutch upgrade.

I don't think, I know with 100% certainty that it solved the clutch slipping issue...

The CDV has been out for several months now and has not slipped once. I've been running MHD Stage 2+ 95 octane (using a Boostane mixture) since I removed it. Before, with the CDV in, I could not make a single trip using that map without the clutch slipping at one point or another.

If it was after shifts, potentially the slower flow of fluid may have prevented the pressure plate from reaching it's maximum clamping force.

[RedLeather]

Originally Posted by kern417

If it was after shifts, potentially the slower flow of fluid may have prevented the pressure plate from reaching it's maximum clamping force.

That's what I was trying to pinpoint before I removed the CDV, whether it slipped right after shifting or not, but was hard to determine. But yes, that's what had to be going on. There was such a fluid restriction that the pressure plate could not 100% engage.

[akgambino]

[QUOTE=RedLeather;25455543]

Originally Posted by akgambino

Yeah I'm not sure what convinced them, unless they wanted to justify money they already spent on a clutch upgrade.

I don't think, I know with 100% certainty that it solved the clutch slipping issue...

The CDV has been out for several months now and has not slipped once. I've been running MHD Stage 2+ 95 octane (using a Boostane mixture) since I removed it. Before, with the CDV in, I could not make a single trip using that map without the clutch slipping at one point or another.

Appreciate the input on this. On my car 13 n55 pwg bm3 stg2 custom tune, I see clutch slipping upon peak torque between 3000-4000rpm. For example if I go wot anywhere around or under 3000rpm in 3/4/5/6 gear there is just too much torque and clutch will slip and boost will dump. Similarly, if I go wot around 3300rpm and up in say 3rd gear and shift under 5500rpm it keeps the car in that big torque portion of the curve upon engaging 4th gear and the clutch will slip in that instance as well.... if I shift above 5500rpm it will be out of that high torque range in the next gear and won't slip the clutch.

Does that sound similar at all to the clutch slipping you had experienced before doing the CDV delete on your 15 n55?

[UnknownBeing]

I went stage one with BM3 and now my clutch is slipping a little at higher load, but it seems to only do this in the morning (when it's cold out).
Not sure how to approach this as if my clutch was worn wouldn't it be doing this at all times no matter the temperature?

[Araemo]

Originally Posted by kern417

Agree with G.Newt. It's bad for the engine, particularly the fluids. You want your oil to get up to temp, otherwise you are wearing our your engine components faster. It also can prevent condensation from burning off, which makes your oil more effective. It sounds like you're driving enough, though, if you put on 3k miles in 5 months.

It's bad for the exhaust too, especially in cold climates. I killed so many exhausts in the 4 years I lived <1mi from work.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by kern417

Thanks. At stage 1 93 I dyno'd 398whp, so after I switched to E30 I'm guessing 410-420whp. I ran it for several months without issue. I'll wait to go stage 2 until I get a clutch. I'm only at 11k miles but I plan on going full E85 in the future. Probably not worth seeing how much the stock clutch can hold and potentially ruining the flywheel.

Good plan..

Mike

[RedLeather]

Originally Posted by akgambino

Appreciate the input on this. On my car 13 n55 pwg bm3 stg2 custom tune, I see clutch slipping upon peak torque between 3000-4000rpm. For example if I go wot anywhere around or under 3000rpm in 3/4/5/6 gear there is just too much torque and clutch will slip and boost will dump. Similarly, if I go wot around 3300rpm and up in say 3rd gear and shift under 5500rpm it keeps the car in that big torque portion of the curve upon engaging 4th gear and the clutch will slip in that instance as well.... if I shift above 5500rpm it will be out of that high torque range in the next gear and won't slip the clutch.

Does that sound similar at all to the clutch slipping you had experienced before doing the CDV delete on your 15 n55?

It's honestly hard to say. I don't daily the car so I'm hardly ever on the same route twice to have noticed consistency with slipping. I had it slip once at WOT in second coming from first. I also had it slip once shifting from 6th to 5th then WOT on the highway. These two instances would definitely be symptoms of the CDV. With that said, I remember a time or two where it seemed as though I had been in the gear long enough but still slipped at WOT in any gear from 3rd and up. In any case, all of that is now gone so that confirms it was the CDV seriously delaying fluid.

Definitely won't hurt to remove it and see the results!

[kern417]

Originally Posted by RedLeather

It's honestly hard to say. I don't daily the car so I'm hardly ever on the same route twice to have noticed consistency with slipping. I had it slip once at WOT in second coming from first. I also had it slip once shifting from 6th to 5th then WOT on the highway. These two instances would definitely be symptoms of the CDV. With that said, I remember a time or two where it seemed as though I had been in the gear long enough but still slipped at WOT in any gear from 3rd and up. In any case, all of that is now gone so that confirms it was the CDV seriously delaying fluid.

Definitely won't hurt to remove it and see the results!

I feel like it also causes the clutch to wear faster if you do any sort of aggressive driving/shifting. If you don't get the timing absolutely perfect and compensate for the delay, you'll slip it slightly every shift. I think it also may be a part of my downshifting jerkiness. It can be hard to time the clutch release just right.

[RedLeather]

Originally Posted by kern417

I feel like it also causes the clutch to wear faster if you do any sort of aggressive driving/shifting. If you don't get the timing absolutely perfect and compensate for the delay, you'll slip it slightly every shift. I think it also may be a part of my downshifting jerkiness. It can be hard to time the clutch release just right.

It absolutely does cause the clutch to wear faster, whether driving aggressive or not. There's just simply more wear with it slowly engaging as opposed to being fully engaged. Almost similar to someone "riding" a clutch. I guess the only benefit of the CDV is to reduce drive train shock in the instance of someone that does not know how to drive a manual, drives the car. I cannot think of a single negative or sacrifice of removing it. Every aspect is a strong positive. As far as jerkiness, it has seemed to help with the 1st and 2nd shifts at slow speeds, but that may be because the engagement point stays consistent, unlike with the CDV in.

[joeyb26]

Originally Posted by joeyb26

Anyone have any idea if a short daily commute would be bad for the clutch?

Back story, I've owned several manual BMW's, including an F80 and a stage 2 (JB4 + downpipe) 340i. Never once had any clutch issues. I recently bought a pre owned 2016 340i xDrive 6 speed in June. Had just over 19,000 miles when I bought it. Was told it was owned prior by an attorney who worked from home

I have an extremely short commute to work every day, .8 miles one way. So when I get to work in the morning and turn the car off, it's still cold. Same when I leave work to go home at night. Monday to Friday. Car now has 22,500 miles

Recently tuned the car to stage 2 with BM3 and downpipe. Almost immediately started having clutch slippage. Drivetrain malfunction came on and when I pulled the codes it confirmed the clutch was having issues.

Considering I never had clutch issues after 20K + plus miles on my last 340, I'm curious as to why I have issues now. I'm figuring either the previous owner was very rough on the car, OR the short commute I have is killing the clutch. Any other thoughts or ideas? I just ordered the 550i/335is clutch for replacement but if it's the commute killing the clutch I'm gunna have to buy a $1000 beater to drive back and forth to work (seems silly I know) Or if it's just a fluke or a result of the previous owners driving style, I'll replace the clutch and move on with life

Update on this situation, I had the car in to have the clutch changed and the shop called saying that while driving the car they could not replicate the slippage I was having. They said it might be something with the tune. They did not think it was the clutch so they ended up not replacing it. I picked the car up, and on the drive home I could not get the "slippage" I experienced previously to happen again. I was really pushing the car in every gear, and it pulled solid.

When my drivetrain malfunction light came on last week, the codes were 1D3101 and 1D320, which both say something along the lines of "clutch delay torque.."

I did a few logs and sent them to BM3 and they said they looked fine. So I've come to the conclusion this could have been caused by bad gas? Autocouture inspected the clutch and said it looked fine. My logs looked fine, so I'm just gunna hope that it was bad gas. Guess we'll find out

[kern417]

Originally Posted by joeyb26

Update on this situation, I had the car in to have the clutch changed and the shop called saying that while driving the car they could not replicate the slippage I was having. They said it might be something with the tune. They did not think it was the clutch so they ended up not replacing it. I picked the car up, and on the drive home I could not get the "slippage" I experienced previously to happen again. I was really pushing the car in every gear, and it pulled solid.

When my drivetrain malfunction light came on last week, the codes were 1D3101 and 1D320, which both say something along the lines of "clutch delay torque.."

I did a few logs and sent them to BM3 and they said they looked fine. So I've come to the conclusion this could have been caused by bad gas? Autocouture inspected the clutch and said it looked fine. My logs looked fine, so I'm just gunna hope that it was bad gas. Guess we'll find out

that's a solid shop to put it through it's paces like that and not just take your money. good luck. I've heard of things like flywheels triggering knock sensors so who knows what happened. Hopefully if it does happen again, you can log it to see what's going on.

[kern417]

Update - I bit the bullet and bought a 550i clutch. Going through replacing it now. I'd just rather not have to limit torque in the future because the clutch starts slipping.

Luk 21207603248
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...uk-21207603248

[MyNameIsNotSure]

So I just got codes 1D3101 and 1D3201 (clutch codes) along with a drivetrain malfunction warning when I let my buddy drive my car last night and he slipped it a couple times, but not super bad--I didn't notice any burning smell. The clutch feels fine, I gave it a couple solid launches and floored it up a steep hill in first and second a couple times and felt no slipping or anything wrong. Normally I'd just clear the codes and keep driving to see if they come back but I have 49920 miles on the car right now so 80 miles until my original warranty runs out. I do have CPO after that. Should I take it to a dealer now or do you guys think this fault code can sometimes pop up like a random one-time thing and not be an issue?

[joeyb26]

Originally Posted by MyNameIsNotSure

So I just got codes 1D3101 and 1D3201 (clutch codes) along with a drivetrain malfunction warning when I let my buddy drive my car last night and he slipped it a couple times, but not super bad--I didn't notice any burning smell. The clutch feels fine, I gave it a couple solid launches and floored it up a steep hill in first and second a couple times and felt no slipping or anything wrong. Normally I'd just clear the codes and keep driving to see if they come back but I have 49920 miles on the car right now so 80 miles until my original warranty runs out. I do have CPO after that. Should I take it to a dealer now or do you guys think this fault code can sometimes pop up like a random one-time thing and not be an issue?

I get these codes from time to time and just clear them. Does the warranty cover the clutch? I thought that was a wear and tear item like tires or brakes

[designatedposter]

Originally Posted by MyNameIsNotSure

So I just got codes 1D3101 and 1D3201 (clutch codes) along with a drivetrain malfunction warning when I let my buddy drive my car last night and he slipped it a couple times, but not super bad--I didn't notice any burning smell. The clutch feels fine, I gave it a couple solid launches and floored it up a steep hill in first and second a couple times and felt no slipping or anything wrong. Normally I'd just clear the codes and keep driving to see if they come back but I have 49920 miles on the car right now so 80 miles until my original warranty runs out. I do have CPO after that. Should I take it to a dealer now or do you guys think this fault code can sometimes pop up like a random one-time thing and not be an issue?

try flooring it from 3000rpm in 4th gear. that'll determine if it's holding.

[B58 parts]

I had the code once as well. There was one day where the car had no power. I thought it was the tune or the vanos wasn't working. I restarted the car after adding fresh fuel and it was back to hitting normally. Later I found the clutch code in there with the mileage about right. My clutch is fine. It may have gotten hot that day I don't know.

If you google "transmittable torque too low" you'll find a bulletin from mini about the software maybe being overly sensitive. Try what he says in 4th and it's probably nothing to worry about.

[kern417]

Just wanted to add some more data. I dyno'd my custom tune and hit 500wtq. The OTS stage 2+ map makes 570wtq, and I don't have any issues. I also see F30_SixSpeed did a dyno with his 550i clutch and hit 570wtq. These are all dynojet numbers, but a good indication for how much the 550i clutch can hold. For reference, 570wtq at redline is ~750whp. With a more conservative tune There's no reason it couldn't hold 600whp with a decent powerband.

My dyno
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...6#post26656906


BM3 Stage 2+ E30 dyno
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1713609


F30_SixSpeed Dyno
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...4#post25350894

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

I've run the 550i clutch before, it'll hold mid upper 500's wtq range pretty well but not for long and will stand up to close to zero abuse (read that: strip type launches). I got about 20k out of mine and hundreds of pulls, but it was a lot of highway driving. Had to be gentle on launches or it'd give up the ghost almost immediately. Great economy upgrade choice, just don't expect it to be the end-all-be-all or run a mountain of torque style tune.

[Nugget]

That's why I went with the Sachs "racing" paddle clutch option.
I can confirm it doesn't mind if you dump the clutch at 6k in second gear then get on the brake.
It's a bit grabby for daily driving though.

[kern417]

Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech

I've run the 550i clutch before, it'll hold mid upper 500's wtq range pretty well but not for long and will stand up to close to zero abuse (read that: strip type launches). I got about 20k out of mine and hundreds of pulls, but it was a lot of highway driving. Had to be gentle on launches or it'd give up the ghost almost immediately. Great economy upgrade choice, just don't expect it to be the end-all-be-all or run a mountain of torque style tune.

Originally Posted by Nugget

That's why I went with the Sachs "racing" paddle clutch option.
I can confirm it doesn't mind if you dump the clutch at 6k in second gear then get on the brake.
It's a bit grabby for daily driving though.

I hear you. My other concern is the stock flywheel. I know ours is different than the N54/N55, but not sure it was designed to fix the high rpm misfire issue they had or not. My goal is to at least ride this thing for a few more years at 550-600whp until I really go full send. I mostly do highway pulls, but in the case that I do a hard-ish launch, it's with TC off so the tires take most of the abuse.