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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N47 and N57 Turbodiesel Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Transfer Case Output Flange Failure, Cause Analysis, Prevention, and Repair
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      06-28-2019, 12:21 PM   #89
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Don't add washers, the driveshaft can slide in and out from the center joint. (If I'm understanding it correctly)

I would definitely make sure that centering bushing is to spec, as that has a lot to do with vibrations.
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      06-28-2019, 05:31 PM   #90
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Bingo-bango; I knocked in the centering bushing to within spec, put red loctite on the bolts and nuts, then tightened to 55 fig newtons. Vibration appears to be all but gone. My crappy runflats are starting to cup, so they aren't helping matters at highway speeds either.

Thanks for the quick responses.
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      06-28-2019, 07:29 PM   #91
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Wow, you're fast. Glad of the outcome!
Lol at fig newtons.
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      06-28-2019, 07:34 PM   #92
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Quote:
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Wow, you're fast. Glad of the outcome!
Lol at fig newtons.
If you had a mad vibration you'd be fast too

Thanks all for continuing information
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      06-30-2019, 06:21 PM   #93
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I spoke too soon. The vibration still exists at speeds over 75 mph, and especially when driving over bumps on the highway.

Iím guessing I need to replace the carrier bearing and the locating bushing. Is there a writeup on this like the rubber disc?

Also, what size star bit are the bolts on the rear subframe support legs that connect under the rear suspension?
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      07-03-2019, 10:07 PM   #94
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UPDATE: my issue was bent wheels. All the swapping, and torquing, and re-measuring was for not. I took the wheels to a tire shop to rebalance as I wasnít sure if the runflats were cupping to a point of needing to be rebalanced. Well they werenít, and 3 of the factory wheels were no longer round.
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      07-03-2019, 10:34 PM   #95
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Well that was a distractor! I hope you didn't go through a lot of driveshaft troubles.

I bet it's smooth and nice now?
Which wheels do you have?
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      07-04-2019, 04:41 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
Well that was a distractor! I hope you didn't go through a lot of driveshaft troubles.

I bet it's smooth and nice now?
Which wheels do you have?
Hours upon stressful hours of my life were wasted swapping driveshaft components.

And Iíve yet to purchase replacement wheels as I have no clue which direction to go. I was thinking of staying the same size and offset in a different BMW wheel, but the prices are worse than aftermarket! Iíll definitely take some input here.
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      07-04-2019, 07:19 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpm01 View Post
Hours upon stressful hours of my life were wasted swapping driveshaft components.

And Iíve yet to purchase replacement wheels as I have no clue which direction to go. I was thinking of staying the same size and offset in a different BMW wheel, but the prices are worse than aftermarket! Iíll definitely take some input here.
Try to find some new car take-offs. Oe wheels are on average stronger than aftermarket. Stick with maximum 18" so you habe enough rubber to protect from bending in the future.
Lots of info out there in the wheel and tire section. I personally believe you had both issues and corrected one.
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      07-04-2019, 11:35 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by AlpineX View Post
Try to find some new car take-offs. Oe wheels are on average stronger than aftermarket. Stick with maximum 18" so you habe enough rubber to protect from bending in the future.
Lots of info out there in the wheel and tire section. I personally believe you had both issues and corrected one.
Iím looking at forged ďrace applicationĒ wheels as I simply donít trust OE wheels at this point; decades of motorsports involvement has never landed me this kind of silliness from the domestic camps. Currently trying to size some Enkei RPF1ís that will fit stock brakes and suspension. These wheels have lasted through various amateur race series on mustangs with great longevity.

On a more related note, the transfer case should last the life of the vehicle now. The annoying part was that I replaced my center carrier bushing and didnít have to.
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      07-09-2019, 08:25 AM   #99
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Wow, lots of useful info here. Couple questions.

1. Where do you buy the 105mm rubber flex disk?
2. Once glue 2 pieces of metal together with loctite, Can you still take them apart? I know we donít want the rear output flange to rotate as it will wear out the teeth, but is it suppose to be loose to allow back/forth movement. (Might seem like a silly question, not a car person whatsoever, and have no idea how the car mechanic worksĒ.

Thanks a bunch!

Wendy
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      07-09-2019, 09:29 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyhuang120 View Post

1. Where do you buy the 105mm rubber flex disk?
2. Once glue 2 pieces of metal together with loctite, Can you still take them apart? I know we don’t want the rear output flange to rotate as it will wear out the teeth, but is it suppose to be loose to allow back/forth movement. (Might seem like a silly question, not a car person whatsoever, and have no idea how the car mechanic works”.
I bought the flex disc from one of the online BMW dealers, just search the PN in google and there's lots of options. I believe it was about $50

Loctite 660 can be removed with a torch if you need to get it apart again. I'm sure that will probably nuke the seals on the TC though, so you're likely rebuilding it if you torch it. Though I would imagine the only reason you'd want to get that piece back off is if you were rebuilding it.
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      07-09-2019, 11:28 AM   #101
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That is a very smart question, especially for a non car person.

The answer is that it does not need to move back and forth. As proof: the transfer case output flange (the triangle shaped flange) has a set of shims designed to keep it affixed as tightly as possible to the shaft. However, it isn't enough to keep it from micro movements clockwise/counterclockwise. The purpose of the loctite 660 is to cancel out those micro movements before they wear out the metal splines.

Yes, high heat can soften the loctite to be able to remove the flange.


Would you really need to remove the flange often? Very doubtful, except for a very thorough rebuild, which assumes that the rebuilder will have the skills to do it anyways.
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      07-10-2019, 12:56 PM   #102
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I picked mine up on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Driveshaft-...72.m2749.l2649
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      07-10-2019, 01:15 PM   #103
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Having not heard of LOSTAR brand, I suggest looking for an OE supplier like Febi for the giubo,/flex disk.
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      07-15-2019, 03:30 PM   #104
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Just took the case apart at 45k miles. The splines on the output shaft don’t look too bad but the splines in the flange do show wear. Will be replacing the flange, seal, flex disc, and fluid. Hopefully that's enough to prevent any issues from arising down the road.








Last edited by andrewc89; 07-17-2019 at 07:00 PM..
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      07-15-2019, 05:02 PM   #105
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You have very little wear.

If your car is older than 07/2015 you need the 105mm bolt circle flange.
Realoem doesn't seem to have this right. After 07/2015 it went to a 96mm flange, but realoem lists the same part number.

I would clean it and then loctite the new flange.

I believe you can get the flange set from ATC vendors as well.
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      08-02-2019, 11:28 AM   #106
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Quote:
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Having not heard of LOSTAR brand, I suggest looking for an OE supplier like Febi for the giubo,/flex disk.
I don't even want to tell you where I picked up the center carrier bushing from....

All vibrations are gone now that the wheels have been replaced. Decided on Konig Hypergramm in 18x8.5 with +35mm offset; found them for $200/ea with free shipping. For reference, I put a 245/40/18 tire on them.
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      08-02-2019, 04:35 PM   #107
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Planning on changing the output flange on my wifeís X3d in a few months (after we get out of this apartment and into our house) and I was just looking at parts on FCP Euroís site. Output flange kit is $272 - is that what you guys are paying for you F3x cars? More than I expected.
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      08-02-2019, 06:51 PM   #108
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Planning on changing the output flange on my wife’s X3d in a few months (after we get out of this apartment and into our house) and I was just looking at parts on FCP Euro’s site. Output flange kit is $272 - is that what you guys are paying for you F3x cars? More than I expected.
Careful, the x3d uses atc 45L and the output flange is the smaller diameter bolt circle. It's not the same as early F30.


Is it a problem on the X3d as well? My dad has an X3 28d with 40k miles now, and an awesome tune I built for it, no issues with transfer case. If it's an issue, I will loctite the flange on that before it becomes a problem.
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      08-02-2019, 10:38 PM   #109
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I was thinking more preventative than anything else. Iíve heard of some issues but havenít seen the X3 forums get as in depth as here. Maybe Iíll check it when I service the transmission fluid and see what it looks like.
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      08-19-2019, 01:28 AM   #110
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Enabled is the man and a living legend. Thank you fellow wagonite and M-couper!

You are doing the job that even BMW engineers and their suppliers' engineers failed to figure out.
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