F30POST
F30POST
2012-2015 BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > B58 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > 6MT Clutch Strength
proTUNING Freaks
Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      10-10-2019, 03:56 PM   #23
YuminNuman
Lieutenant
YuminNuman's Avatar
United_States
253
Rep
434
Posts

Drives: '17 340ix 6MT
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: US

iTrader: (0)

I kinda want to go single mass. My buddy has one on his vag and the chatter isn't so bad.

Is there a good single mass that would work with the 550 setup? I'm sure that's the right clutch when mine goes just not sure about the heavy dmf. A light flywheel is like my favorite mod.

I'm at 36k and things are just starting to feel different .. not new. It may make it to 60k, I'm not sure I've always sold or blew up a car before having the clutch go. The parts aren't very expensive if I had a lift I'd already have a light flywheel in.
Appreciate 0
      10-10-2019, 04:36 PM   #24
G.Newt
First Lieutenant
168
Rep
386
Posts

Drives: 340i xDrive 6MT
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Denver, CO

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
unless you plan on going much further, i still feel like the 335is/550i clutch is a viable upgrade for the majority. Tracking 9 times in 2 years is a lot more aggressive driving than most of us do. He needs a clutch that can handle the added heat.
I'm more worried about the flywheel than the clutch. Also, I like to leave some headroom. If Stage 2 E30 is basically the limit, then I'd want something that can handle a bit more.
Appreciate 0
      10-10-2019, 04:55 PM   #25
kern417
Cheapskate
United_States
2073
Rep
3,219
Posts

Drives: 2018 440i / 2010 X5
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Cincinnati

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
I kinda want to go single mass. My buddy has one on his vag and the chatter isn't so bad.

Is there a good single mass that would work with the 550 setup? I'm sure that's the right clutch when mine goes just not sure about the heavy dmf. A light flywheel is like my favorite mod.

I'm at 36k and things are just starting to feel different .. not new. It may make it to 60k, I'm not sure I've always sold or blew up a car before having the clutch go. The parts aren't very expensive if I had a lift I'd already have a light flywheel in.
The problem is you lose dampening with a single mass flywheel, so then you need a sprung clutch disk. I think it makes more sense to buy a complete aftermarket kit at that point that'll use a better clutch material and even stronger pressure plate.

I like it in my GLI but idk if I'd enjoy it in my 440i. It's fun and peppy but when you just want to cruise and relax, it can be annoying. especially with the A/C on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Newt View Post
I'm more worried about the flywheel than the clutch. Also, I like to leave some headroom. If Stage 2 E30 is basically the limit, then I'd want something that can handle a bit more.
yeah like i said, i don't think the flywheel is the problem unless you're going to be racing 4-5 times a year like Nugget. The only way to get that kind of heat is from really aggressive driving or too much clutch slip. You see the heat marks on both the flywheel and the pressure plate, so he repeatedly released the pedal with the clutch still moving at a very high speed (constantly shifting at 5k-7k). At that point your clutch material can't absorb all the friction and the flywheel becomes a heat sink. He needs something kevlar or carbon.

I'm not sure about headroom. I'll need to do more research to see if anyone is slipping the 335is clutch. But a tuned 550i makes similar torque to us, so probably 500wtq or so might be close to the limit? We'll see.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by umizoomi View Post
As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
Instagram @kern417
Appreciate 2
G.Newt168.00
eluded1729.50

      10-10-2019, 09:04 PM   #26
Araemo
Lieutenant
180
Rep
510
Posts

Drives: 2017 340iX 6MT
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: NE Ohio

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
I kinda want to go single mass. My buddy has one on his vag and the chatter isn't so bad.

Is there a good single mass that would work with the 550 setup? I'm sure that's the right clutch when mine goes just not sure about the heavy dmf. A light flywheel is like my favorite mod.

I'm at 36k and things are just starting to feel different .. not new. It may make it to 60k, I'm not sure I've always sold or blew up a car before having the clutch go. The parts aren't very expensive if I had a lift I'd already have a light flywheel in.
I'm at just under 60k (59400 today), and I have been having some clutch chatter/judder occasionally for the past ~10k? It's occasional, so I suspect it's actually the automatic adjustment mechanism as the culprit. When it happens, it's constant for a day or two, then it goes away completely. If it was the friction material itself, I'd think it wouldn't come and go the way it does. I took it to the dealership, and of course since it's intermittent, they didn't notice anything while they had it.
Appreciate 0
      10-10-2019, 09:12 PM   #27
Nugget
Colonel
Nugget's Avatar
Australia
323
Rep
2,464
Posts

Drives: 2017 M140i, 1994 M3, 1997 M3
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Perth

iTrader: (2)

Garage List
2011 BMW 135i  [5.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
You see the heat marks on both the flywheel and the pressure plate, so he repeatedly released the pedal with the clutch still moving at a very high speed (constantly shifting at 5k-7k). At that point your clutch material can't absorb all the friction and the flywheel becomes a heat sink. He needs something kevlar or carbon.
I think the CDV and the rev hang issue doesn't help.
You shift just before 7k and revs either hang there or actually go up while you are shifting.
Appreciate 1
kern4172073.00

      10-11-2019, 06:02 AM   #28
kern417
Cheapskate
United_States
2073
Rep
3,219
Posts

Drives: 2018 440i / 2010 X5
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Cincinnati

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nugget View Post
I think the CDV and the rev hang issue doesn't help.
You shift just before 7k and revs either hang there or actually go up while you are shifting.
I've been going back and forth on how i want to go about it.

Clutch Upgrade
370mm Brake upgrade
CDV delete

I want to pair the CDV delete with at least one of the others, but it's the only one that's free i may just bite the bullet and do it on a slow weekend this winter.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by umizoomi View Post
As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
Instagram @kern417
Appreciate 0
      10-12-2019, 03:30 PM   #29
joeyb26
Lieutenant
181
Rep
575
Posts

Drives: 2016 340i xDrive M-Sport 6MT
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North NJ

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
According to Real OEM, every BMW since the E90 has had the same clutch. The recommended upgrade is from an e90 335is/F10 550i. It's only about $330 on FCP Euro (Free lifetime replacement) so that's probably the route I'll go before getting tuned for more power.

Part #21207603248
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...uk-21207603248

Will this fit a 340i? It's not listed under the section listing what cars it fits
__________________
2016 340i xDrive 6MT
Appreciate 0
      10-13-2019, 07:58 AM   #30
kern417
Cheapskate
United_States
2073
Rep
3,219
Posts

Drives: 2018 440i / 2010 X5
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Cincinnati

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyb26 View Post
Will this fit a 340i? It's not listed under the section listing what cars it fits
it will fit, it is just not the OEM clutch. Our OEM clutch is the same as the e8x and e9x models that they have listed.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by umizoomi View Post
As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
Instagram @kern417
Appreciate 0
      10-14-2019, 08:43 AM   #31
joeyb26
Lieutenant
181
Rep
575
Posts

Drives: 2016 340i xDrive M-Sport 6MT
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North NJ

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
it will fit, it is just not the OEM clutch. Our OEM clutch is the same as the e8x and e9x models that they have listed.
Awesome, thanks. Been trying to find a stronger clutch to handle extra power while still keeping daily drive-ability. I'm only going stage 2 with downpipe route, so this should be perfect based on everything I'm reading
__________________
2016 340i xDrive 6MT
Appreciate 0
      10-14-2019, 11:29 AM   #32
kern417
Cheapskate
United_States
2073
Rep
3,219
Posts

Drives: 2018 440i / 2010 X5
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Cincinnati

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyb26 View Post
Awesome, thanks. Been trying to find a stronger clutch to handle extra power while still keeping daily drive-ability. I'm only going stage 2 with downpipe route, so this should be perfect based on everything I'm reading
Yep, you're in the same boat as me. It should be an oem feel, just with slightly stiffer clutch pedal due to more clamping force. I almost feel like we could just swap pressure plates but not sure they're sold separately. And it would be so cheap relatively that it's probably not worth it, when you can put a fresh disc in at the same time.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by umizoomi View Post
As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
Instagram @kern417
Appreciate 0
      10-14-2019, 06:52 PM   #33
RedLeather
Private
RedLeather's Avatar
21
Rep
92
Posts

Drives: 2015 M-Sport 6MT 335i
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Birmingham, AL

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nugget View Post
I think the CDV and the rev hang issue doesn't help.
You shift just before 7k and revs either hang there or actually go up while you are shifting.
I've been going back and forth on how i want to go about it.

Clutch Upgrade
370mm Brake upgrade
CDV delete

I want to pair the CDV delete with at least one of the others, but it's the only one that's free i may just bite the bullet and do it on a slow weekend this winter.
[QUOTE=kern417;25336112]
I've skimmed through this thread and let me help convince you to delete the CDV. My clutch was slipping FBO running the MHD Stage 2+ 95 octane map. It slipped much less running 93 and not at all on MHD stage 1 & 2 tunes. With that said, I was about to spend $1500 on a 335is/550i clutch with installation until a friend and fellow enthusiast convinced me to try the CDV delete first.

The CDV has been out for about a month now, along with me running MHD Stage 2+ 95 octane and I've had absolutely zero slippage. Not to mention the clutch feels loads better than it did before IMO. Hope this helps.
__________________
Current: 2015 Alpine White over Coral Red M-Sport 6MT 335i (EWG) - VRSF 5" High Density FMIC / VRSF Charge Pipe / VRSF Catless Downpipe / Borla ATAK / Pipercross Filter / MHD OTS Stage 2+ 95 Octane / BMS Spacers - 12mm front; 15mm rear / Rolls Royce Door Chimes / Bang & Olufson DSP settings for H/K
Appreciate 1
kern4172073.00

      10-15-2019, 07:53 AM   #34
kern417
Cheapskate
United_States
2073
Rep
3,219
Posts

Drives: 2018 440i / 2010 X5
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Cincinnati

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ALE90N54 View Post
I've skimmed through this thread and let me help convince you to delete the CDV. My clutch was slipping FBO running the MHD Stage 2+ 95 octane map. It slipped much less running 93 and not at all on MHD stage 1 & 2 tunes. With that said, I was about to spend $1500 on a 335is/550i clutch with installation until a friend and fellow enthusiast convinced me to try the CDV delete first.

The CDV has been out for about a month now, along with me running MHD Stage 2+ 95 octane and I've had absolutely zero slippage. Not to mention the clutch feels loads better than it did before IMO. Hope this helps.
I'll probably just get under the car and do it. I'll have some brake fluid left over from other jobs anyway. thanks for the motivation.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by umizoomi View Post
As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
Instagram @kern417
Appreciate 1
      10-15-2019, 06:05 PM   #35
RedLeather
Private
RedLeather's Avatar
21
Rep
92
Posts

Drives: 2015 M-Sport 6MT 335i
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Birmingham, AL

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALE90N54 View Post
I've skimmed through this thread and let me help convince you to delete the CDV. My clutch was slipping FBO running the MHD Stage 2+ 95 octane map. It slipped much less running 93 and not at all on MHD stage 1 & 2 tunes. With that said, I was about to spend $1500 on a 335is/550i clutch with installation until a friend and fellow enthusiast convinced me to try the CDV delete first.

The CDV has been out for about a month now, along with me running MHD Stage 2+ 95 octane and I've had absolutely zero slippage. Not to mention the clutch feels loads better than it did before IMO. Hope this helps.
I'll probably just get under the car and do it. I'll have some brake fluid left over from other jobs anyway. thanks for the motivation.
You're welcome! I would have done it much sooner had I known of all of the benefits beforehand. If you do it, my biggest tip is to use a power bleeder such as the Motive branded one. I tried numerous ways of old school bleeding and they did not work. I wouldn't have been able to finish the job without it.
__________________
Current: 2015 Alpine White over Coral Red M-Sport 6MT 335i (EWG) - VRSF 5" High Density FMIC / VRSF Charge Pipe / VRSF Catless Downpipe / Borla ATAK / Pipercross Filter / MHD OTS Stage 2+ 95 Octane / BMS Spacers - 12mm front; 15mm rear / Rolls Royce Door Chimes / Bang & Olufson DSP settings for H/K
Appreciate 0
      11-11-2019, 08:51 AM   #36
joeyb26
Lieutenant
181
Rep
575
Posts

Drives: 2016 340i xDrive M-Sport 6MT
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North NJ

iTrader: (1)

my clutch needs replacement, 22,500 miles on the car. Just went stage 2 last week and almost immediately started getting slipping when pushing the car hard in any gear. drive train malfunction light came on and both the codes were for clutch issues. Going to upgrade to 550i/335is clutch in hopes of solving this issue
__________________
2016 340i xDrive 6MT
Appreciate 1
kern4172073.00

      11-11-2019, 12:59 PM   #37
kern417
Cheapskate
United_States
2073
Rep
3,219
Posts

Drives: 2018 440i / 2010 X5
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Cincinnati

iTrader: (0)

Looks like I'm definitely upgrading my clutch before going stage 2 or E85.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by umizoomi View Post
As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
Instagram @kern417
Appreciate 0
      11-11-2019, 09:54 PM   #38
joeyb26
Lieutenant
181
Rep
575
Posts

Drives: 2016 340i xDrive M-Sport 6MT
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North NJ

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have any idea if a short daily commute would be bad for the clutch?

Back story, I've owned several manual BMW's, including an F80 and a stage 2 (JB4 + downpipe) 340i. Never once had any clutch issues. I recently bought a pre owned 2016 340i xDrive 6 speed in June. Had just over 19,000 miles when I bought it. Was told it was owned prior by an attorney who worked from home

I have an extremely short commute to work every day, .8 miles one way. So when I get to work in the morning and turn the car off, it's still cold. Same when I leave work to go home at night. Monday to Friday. Car now has 22,500 miles

Recently tuned the car to stage 2 with BM3 and downpipe. Almost immediately started having clutch slippage. Drivetrain malfunction came on and when I pulled the codes it confirmed the clutch was having issues.

Considering I never had clutch issues after 20K + plus miles on my last 340, I'm curious as to why I have issues now. I'm figuring either the previous owner was very rough on the car, OR the short commute I have is killing the clutch. Any other thoughts or ideas? I just ordered the 550i/335is clutch for replacement but if it's the commute killing the clutch I'm gunna have to buy a $1000 beater to drive back and forth to work (seems silly I know) Or if it's just a fluke or a result of the previous owners driving style, I'll replace the clutch and move on with life
__________________
2016 340i xDrive 6MT

Last edited by joeyb26; 11-11-2019 at 10:01 PM..
Appreciate 0
      11-11-2019, 10:46 PM   #39
G.Newt
First Lieutenant
168
Rep
386
Posts

Drives: 340i xDrive 6MT
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Denver, CO

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyb26 View Post
Anyone have any idea if a short daily commute would be bad for the clutch?

Back story, I've owned several manual BMW's, including an F80 and a stage 2 (JB4 + downpipe) 340i. Never once had any clutch issues. I recently bought a pre owned 2016 340i xDrive 6 speed in June. Had just over 19,000 miles when I bought it. Was told it was owned prior by an attorney who worked from home

I have an extremely short commute to work every day, .8 miles one way. So when I get to work in the morning and turn the car off, it's still cold. Same when I leave work to go home at night. Monday to Friday. Car now has 22,500 miles

Recently tuned the car to stage 2 with BM3 and downpipe. Almost immediately started having clutch slippage. Drivetrain malfunction came on and when I pulled the codes it confirmed the clutch was having issues.

Considering I never had clutch issues after 20K + plus miles on my last 340, I'm curious as to why I have issues now. I'm figuring either the previous owner was very rough on the car, OR the short commute I have is killing the clutch. Any other thoughts or ideas? I just ordered the 550i/335is clutch for replacement but if it's the commute killing the clutch I'm gunna have to buy a $1000 beater to drive back and forth to work (seems silly I know) Or if it's just a fluke or a result of the previous owners driving style, I'll replace the clutch and move on with life
Sounds like an attorney who didn't know how to drive manual well and tried to impress some friends.

Short commutes are bad because they don't let the engine and car fully warm up. You should take it for a nice highway drive on the weekends or maybe out to dinner once or twice a week.

Clutch wear comes from transferring torque from the powertrain to the drivetrain. This can be exacerbated by adding more power to the car, launching, or slipping the clutch, or a combination of the three.
Appreciate 1
joeyb26180.50

      11-12-2019, 07:27 AM   #40
kern417
Cheapskate
United_States
2073
Rep
3,219
Posts

Drives: 2018 440i / 2010 X5
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Cincinnati

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyb26 View Post
Anyone have any idea if a short daily commute would be bad for the clutch?
Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Newt View Post
Clutch wear comes from transferring torque from the powertrain to the drivetrain. This can be exacerbated by adding more power to the car, launching, or slipping the clutch, or a combination of the three.

Agree with G.Newt. It's bad for the engine, particularly the fluids. You want your oil to get up to temp, otherwise you are wearing our your engine components faster. It also can prevent condensation from burning off, which makes your oil more effective. It sounds like you're driving enough, though, if you put on 3k miles in 5 months.

The clutch, on the other hand, shouldn't have an issue. It's just OEM organic material made to work through a wide temp range. It's kind of like stock brake pads. If anything, too much heat is what would kill it. (i.e. slipping/burning up the material)

BUT, if it's anything like the clutch replacement my friend did, the clutch very well may be fine. The pressure plate just can't hold the torque. I'd argue that BM3 has more torque and potentially higher peak boost at lower RPM than JB4. It's also a different car, so the clutch could just be a bit weaker than your previous F30. For sure weaker than the F80 twin disk clutch. Unfortunately, you'll need to pull it to do a diagnosis of why it's slipping. I don't think we have any inspection holes on our trans or any way to see the clutch disk.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by umizoomi View Post
As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
Instagram @kern417
Appreciate 1
joeyb26180.50

      11-12-2019, 09:03 AM   #41
joeyb26
Lieutenant
181
Rep
575
Posts

Drives: 2016 340i xDrive M-Sport 6MT
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North NJ

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
Agree with G.Newt. It's bad for the engine, particularly the fluids. You want your oil to get up to temp, otherwise you are wearing our your engine components faster. It also can prevent condensation from burning off, which makes your oil more effective. It sounds like you're driving enough, though, if you put on 3k miles in 5 months.

The clutch, on the other hand, shouldn't have an issue. It's just OEM organic material made to work through a wide temp range. It's kind of like stock brake pads. If anything, too much heat is what would kill it. (i.e. slipping/burning up the material)

BUT, if it's anything like the clutch replacement my friend did, the clutch very well may be fine. The pressure plate just can't hold the torque. I'd argue that BM3 has more torque and potentially higher peak boost at lower RPM than JB4. It's also a different car, so the clutch could just be a bit weaker than your previous F30. For sure weaker than the F80 twin disk clutch. Unfortunately, you'll need to pull it to do a diagnosis of why it's slipping. I don't think we have any inspection holes on our trans or any way to see the clutch disk.
Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Newt View Post
Sounds like an attorney who didn't know how to drive manual well and tried to impress some friends.

Short commutes are bad because they don't let the engine and car fully warm up. You should take it for a nice highway drive on the weekends or maybe out to dinner once or twice a week.

Clutch wear comes from transferring torque from the powertrain to the drivetrain. This can be exacerbated by adding more power to the car, launching, or slipping the clutch, or a combination of the three.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the knowledge. I'm glad short drives don't affect the clutch, now I won't have to get a beater lol. I drive the car for long periods of time on the weekends, and usually at least once or twice during the week I take a long drive. I ordered the clutch kit from FCP Euro so when I have the new clutch installed, I'll have the shop take pictures of the old clutch and post them here for reference. Looking forward to actually being able to use all this power now
__________________
2016 340i xDrive 6MT
Appreciate 1
kern4172073.00

      11-12-2019, 09:43 AM   #42
akgambino
Lieutenant
Canada
136
Rep
400
Posts

Drives: 2013 F30 335xi M-Sport (PWG)
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Saskatchewan

iTrader: (0)

[QUOTE=RedLeather;25347563]
Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nugget View Post
I think the CDV and the rev hang issue doesn't help.
You shift just before 7k and revs either hang there or actually go up while you are shifting.
I've been going back and forth on how i want to go about it.

Clutch Upgrade
370mm Brake upgrade
CDV delete

I want to pair the CDV delete with at least one of the others, but it's the only one that's free i may just bite the bullet and do it on a slow weekend this winter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
I've skimmed through this thread and let me help convince you to delete the CDV. My clutch was slipping FBO running the MHD Stage 2+ 95 octane map. It slipped much less running 93 and not at all on MHD stage 1 & 2 tunes. With that said, I was about to spend $1500 on a 335is/550i clutch with installation until a friend and fellow enthusiast convinced me to try the CDV delete first.

The CDV has been out for about a month now, along with me running MHD Stage 2+ 95 octane and I've had absolutely zero slippage. Not to mention the clutch feels loads better than it did before IMO. Hope this helps.
Very interesting, in similar threads in the n55 section people were convinced that the CDV has nothing to do with clutch slipping. I always suspected it would be worth a shot deleting the CDV before jumping head first into a full clutch upgrade.
So you for sure think it solved clutch slipping in your instance?
__________________
2013 F30 335i xDrive M-Sport 6MT (FBO/BM3 custom tune by HCP, 91 oct)
Appreciate 0
      11-12-2019, 11:15 AM   #43
kern417
Cheapskate
United_States
2073
Rep
3,219
Posts

Drives: 2018 440i / 2010 X5
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Cincinnati

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by akgambino View Post

Very interesting, in similar threads in the n55 section people were convinced that the CDV has nothing to do with clutch slipping. I always suspected it would be worth a shot deleting the CDV before jumping head first into a full clutch upgrade.
So you for sure think it solved clutch slipping in your instance?
I think you misquoted the post. The clutch slip comment came from RedLeather
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by umizoomi View Post
As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
Instagram @kern417
Appreciate 0
      11-12-2019, 12:35 PM   #44
Mike@N54Tuning.com
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor
Canada
3700
Rep
94,507
Posts


Drives: 2007 335i, 2015 M3
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: N54tuning.com

iTrader: (89)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
Goals for my build are to have maximum efficiency out of my car. I don't need to have the fastest car in town, but I don't want to feel like I'm leaving a lot of power on the table. But one of the big things I don't want to do is move to a heavy aftermarket clutch. Some people discussed that the 550i clutch might be a possible OEM+ upgrade, but that'd be as far as I go.

So just curious, has anyone experienced clutch slip after turning up the power?What tune are you running, and how much power/torque are you putting down? Anyone on upgraded turbos with stock clutch? And can anyone verify the 550i clutch bolts up? Maybe we have to reuse our flywheel or maybe we only need the 550i pressure plate....idk.

For reference, I'm currently on BM3 Stage 1 93 oct with no issues, looking forward to bumping up to e30 or e85 within the next year. I'm hoping that with the style of tuning that PTF used in V2.0, I can continue to turn it up more with less risk of clutch slip since torque onset is smooth and progressive.
I think OEM is good to full bolt on pump gas (4-450) but beyond that you are going to start skipping eventually.

Mike
__________________

DECEMBER VRSF SALE ON NOW (10% OFF) @ www.n54tuning.com
Email; mike@n54tuning.com
Appreciate 1
kern4172073.00

Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:31 PM.




f30post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST