[Saigonsky]

Hello guys.

Im new here to the forum.

Just want to know if anyone here ever got the control arm bushing or the whole control arm replaced on their F30 and how much did it cost?

Dealer quoted me 450 for both control arm and this is just the part no labor cost yet. These new control arms come with new bushing.

Thanks

My car is a 2014 BMW 328i sport line non msport

[haagm58]

Hi there and welcome to the forum. Funny you should ask, I just had my 2014 328d at the BMW dealer for warranty work and they informed me my passenger side front/upper control arm bushing was pushing through the arm and they recommended replacing both arms at a cost of $775 including parts, labor, and alignment.

I took it to my independent shop and they quoted me around $580 for parts, labor, and alignment and quoted the two arms with bushings at $225.

I was able to find arms for $104 shipped as there are several different brands but from what I read, they are all essentially made by the same one or two manufacturers meaning they are essentially the same part.

The independent shop told me it would be more expensive to replace only the bushings because they don't always push out easily and sometimes they bend the (aluminum) arms during the process.

The "BMW" branded arms cost ~$350-450, but search online and you will find 3 or 4 different options that are all less.

I'm debating DIY this as well as it doesn't look too difficult and might not require an alignment.

Good luck!

[Saigonsky]

Thank you for your input. Yeah i was expecting 500-700 since the labor cost aren't cheap.

Do you know if the arms came with all the screws and bolts or do you have to buy them in additional?

[haagm58]

Originally Posted by Saigonsky

Thank you for your input. Yeah i was expecting 500-700 since the labor cost aren't cheap.

Do you know if the arms came with all the screws and bolts or do you have to buy them in additional?

Here is a photo of one of the arms I received, it includes the bushing and nut, but not a new bolt. I ordered the bolts (and the proper locking nuts, just to be safe) through OEM Part Source.

[Saigonsky]

Originally Posted by haagm58

Here is a photo of one of the arms I received, it includes the bushing and nut, but not a new bolt. I ordered the bolts (and the proper locking nuts, just to be safe) through OEM Part Source.

thank you for your input.

I went and ordered the nuts and bold from dealer to be sure. It came out 4$ each which is not too bad.

[haagm58]

Originally Posted by Saigonsky

thank you for your input.

I went and ordered the nuts and bold from dealer to be sure. It came out 4$ each which is not too bad.

That's a good average price per part, the bolts were around $8-9/each everywhere online.

If I'm able to DIY the replacements this week, I'll let you know how it went.

[haagm58]

I replaced the front forward control arms in 90 minutes for under $200. It was a pretty easy job considering I did it without a lift.

The passenger arm bushing pushed through the housing, causing a creaking/popping sound when turning right or going over a large bump. According to the dealer, if it pushed through all the way at high speed it could damage other suspension components.

[Saigonsky]

Originally Posted by haagm58

I replaced the front forward control arms in 90 minutes for under $200. It was a pretty easy job considering I did it without a lift.

The passenger arm bushing pushed through the housing, causing a creaking/popping sound when turning right or going over a large bump. According to the dealer, if it pushed through all the way at high speed it could damage other suspension components.

That's not bad at all for under $200. Good job.

I actually end up paying a mechanic $300 to do all 4 arms for me since i didn't have a lift.

Did you tighten the bolt while the car at ride height? I heard if you tighten them when the suspension is not at ride height then the bushings would be under a lot of pressure and could fail prematurely.

[gippy]

haagm58

could you by any chance measure the diameter of the circular hole of the arm, where the bushing resides please? if you have the old arm about?

i want to buy one of those universal bushing press kits which come with different size cups and want to make sure that at least one of those cups will fit across.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by gippy

haagm58

could you by any chance measure the diameter of the circular hole of the arm, where the bushing resides please? if you have the old arm about?

i want to buy one of those universal bushing press kits which come with different size cups and want to make sure that at least one of those cups will fit across.

The bushings are 70mm OD, but the ends are tapered a bit. On my KMAC pressing cups for them the side to push the bushing out is 63.5mm OD, and the side to press the bushing in is 69mm OD. The cups have a 2mm thick wall.

[haagm58]

Originally Posted by Saigonsky

That's not bad at all for under $200. Good job.

I actually end up paying a mechanic $300 to do all 4 arms for me since i didn't have a lift.

Did you tighten the bolt while the car at ride height? I heard if you tighten them when the suspension is not at ride height then the bushings would be under a lot of pressure and could fail prematurely.

That's very reasonable!

Yes I jacked up the suspension and torqued to spec at ride height.

[haagm58]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

The bushings are 70mm OD, but the ends are tapered a bit. On my KMAC pressing cups for them the side to push the bushing out is 63.5mm OD, and the side to press the bushing in is 69mm OD. The cups have a 2mm thick wall.

Thanks for providing this info! Did you see any risk of bending the arms with the press? My shop told me this is a risk and warned me against pressing the bushings out which is why I replaced the entire arms. My initial preference was to just upgrade the bushings as the arms had less than 60k miles on them and looked to be in great shape.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by haagm58

Thanks for providing this info! Did you see any risk of bending the arms with the press? My shop told me this is a risk and warned me against pressing the bushings out which is why I replaced the entire arms. My initial preference was to just upgrade the bushings as the arms had less than 60k miles on them and looked to be in great shape.

There's no risk to the arm unless you're not supporting them properly. Typically you place a second cup underneath the arm that supports the rim of the arm around the bushing. The bushing then gets pressed out of the arm and into the center of the bottom support cup.

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by haagm58

Thanks for providing this info! Did you see any risk of bending the arms with the press? My shop told me this is a risk and warned me against pressing the bushings out which is why I replaced the entire arms. My initial preference was to just upgrade the bushings as the arms had less than 60k miles on them and looked to be in great shape.

There's a procedure for fitting new bushings in the service manual for the f30, so it's ok if done correctly. I looked at it the other day because I was replacing my tension struts and both procedures are on the same page in the manual. They give measurements to be met when pressing. And yes, with the stock bushing you are supposed to put the vehicle back to regular ride height before you torque it all the way on the Knuckle end. Since that bushing is so soft it has to be loaded evenly or it will wear prematurely if not done this way.
Bmw allows the bushings to be replaced once before they require a new control arm. As others have said, they are soft metal and repeated pressing of bushings deforms them. But once is approved.

[GodOfThunder000]

Originally Posted by Jvac

There's a procedure for fitting new bushings in the service manual for the f30, so it's ok if done correctly. I looked at it the other day because I was replacing my tension struts and both procedures are on the same page in the manual. They give measurements to be met when pressing. And yes, with the stock bushing you are supposed to put the vehicle back to regular ride height before you torque it all the way on the Knuckle end. Since that bushing is so soft it has to be loaded evenly or it will wear prematurely if not done this way.
Bmw allows the bushings to be replaced once before they require a new control arm. As others have said, they are soft metal and repeated pressing of bushings deforms them. But once is approved.

Could you please post or send me pictures of this in the manual?

[_bdiddyb_]

Sharing is caring...

Originally Posted by GodOfThunder000

Could you please post or send me pictures of this in the manual?

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by _bdiddyb_

Sharing is caring...

Shoot, thanks for the assist man! I totally forgot about this thread because I've been working so much. These forums rule.

[kanavbansal]

Hi,

Can someone please share the site from where I can order BMW original parts or the closest match?

Thank you!

[LCornice]

Timely thread. I had mine (2014 F30) in for the EGR recall and the SA said I needed new control arms (these: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...rm-31126854723). FCP Euro has all the parts (including new bolts) and I'm wondering if I should just do all 4 at once. Thoughts from the group?

FCP parts - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-kit-lemforder

[johnung]

Originally Posted by LCornice

Timely thread. I had mine (2014 F30) in for the EGR recall and the SA said I needed new control arms (these: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...rm-31126854723). FCP Euro has all the parts (including new bolts) and I'm wondering if I should just do all 4 at once. Thoughts from the group?

FCP parts - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-kit-lemforder

You didn't say specifically if it was your upper or lower control arms that need replacement, but it's typically the Uppers that wear out and leak from the big cylindrical bushing. Usually lowers don't need to be changed at the same time. Lowers might last twice as long.

You have an opportunity to upgrade to monoball control arms which will dramatically improve the vague F3x steering, make it much more precise. The installation is a simple swap of the stock upper control arms, also called tension struts. 1-2 hours labor. Link below for F3x XDrive parts:

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...8;_ss=r?aff=22

[LCornice]

Originally Posted by johnung

You didn't say specifically if it was your upper or lower control arms that need replacement, but it's typically the Uppers that wear out and leak from the big cylindrical bushing. Usually lowers don't need to be changed at the same time. Lowers might last twice as long.

You have an opportunity to upgrade to monoball control arms which will dramatically improve the vague F3x steering, make it much more precise. The installation is a simple swap of the stock upper control arms, also called tension struts. 1-2 hours labor. Link below for F3x XDrive parts:

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...0&_ss=r?aff=22

Thanks for the info. It's the uppers. I ended up ordering the FCPEuro kit. Supposed to be here tomorrow.

EDIT: Very easy installation. No lift for me, just jackstands. Bushings on both tension struts were worn out and leaking. Only issue was FCP sent a right TS for a RWD F30. I learned that after I finished the left side, took the right side apart, and opened the bag. Called them and the correct part was sent overnight. Kudos to FCP for their customer service. They also have a great video on their website that made the job that much easier. Finally, the ball joint nuts are included, but you need to order the axle nuts and other nuts/bolts. Everything delivered was $390 and about 2 hours.