[///M248]

Hey guys,

I just installed B14's on my F33 M sport I've got the front slammed and the rear two turns up.

I'm now getting a clunk from the front right corner. We checked the pitch of the struts and it looks correct (my guy said the struts are keyed, so there's no way to install them with the wrong pitch).

My alignment shop said my sway bar end links look like they might be causing the problem.

Would adjustable end links remedy this issue? If so what size should I get?

Looking at Turner as an option.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-m...104~dk/?pdk=Ag

[Logicoeur]

Look under the car and check the end links out. I have seen them snap very inconspicuously when the cars get lowered.

[cfm56d7b]

By how much is the suspension lower now vs prior to the installation?

[mbanks21]

99% of the time you lower more than ~1" and get a clunk noise it's the endlinks

[///M248]

What size adjustable end links should I be ordering?

[mbanks21]

They should be shorter by the amount you lowered. I had adjustable endlinks on my E90, not sure if they make them for Fxx though

Check out https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...ing/End-Links/

[sspade]

MEYLE HD end links work great for my Bilstein suspension. Worlds better than OEM.

[DieselSport]

Bilstein B14s here , lowered more than an inch and i have no sounds and/or issues.

[andino]

I swapped out for adjustable endlinks (and shortened them to remove preload) and my clunking went away. I would highly recommend swapping your end links as lowering even 1" put considerable preload onto my sways. Car handles way better after removing that preload.

[Kefka]

Originally Posted by sspade

MEYLE HD end links work great for my Bilstein suspension. Worlds better than OEM.

+1

[///M248]

Originally Posted by andino

I swapped out for adjustable endlinks (and shortened them to remove preload) and my clunking went away. I would highly recommend swapping your end links as lowering even 1" put considerable preload onto my sways. Car handles way better after removing that preload.

Do you remember what length they were?

[andino]

Originally Posted by ///M248

Do you remember what length they were?

I bought the CATuned 160mm adjustable end links. They were on sale and I wasn't 100% sure at the time if it would solve my issues so I didn't want to spend 200 on the hotchkis ones. They're pretty nice though esp for the price. They sometimes make a tiny bit of noise when doing full lock to lock turns though. Just something to keep in mind when you put them on.

[kern417]

you shouldn't need adjustable end links for any amount of reasonable lowering. It doesn't add a preload to the sway bar. The sway bar rotates in the bushing. Anytime you go over a bump, it rotates up and down with the shock. The only purpose of an adjustable endlink is to add preload during corner balancing.

[sspade]

Originally Posted by kern417

you shouldn't need adjustable end links for any amount of reasonable lowering. It doesn't add a preload to the sway bar. The sway bar rotates in the bushing. Anytime you go over a bump, it rotates up and down with the shock. The only purpose of an adjustable endlink is to add preload during corner balancing.

+2

[slicer]

Originally Posted by kern417

you shouldn't need adjustable end links for any amount of reasonable lowering. It doesn't add a preload to the sway bar. The sway bar rotates in the bushing. Anytime you go over a bump, it rotates up and down with the shock. The only purpose of an adjustable endlink is to add preload during corner balancing.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding but the opposite is true. You want to remove preload when corner balancing. In fact in most people unhook the sways during corner balance. This is because adjusting the ride height on only one side will ADD preload onto the sway bar (unless you adjust the end link). Furthermore under normal conditions there should be no preload on the sways at static, resting ride height. So I think you meant to say "remove" instead of "add".

It's true that often the OE end links work fine because the sway bar can rotate to a new non- preloaded position after lowering the car. However it's a problem if that new position interferes or contacts some part of the suspension. Or if you are independently adjusting ride height at each corner.

The primary reasons for adjustable end links are to remove preload (NOT add) and to resolve any clearance issue that arises when changing ride height and/or other suspension geometry, arms, etc.

[sspade]

^ no clearance issues with a modestly lowered F30, therefore adjustable end links are unnecessary.

[slicer]

Originally Posted by sspade

^ no clearance issues with a modestly lowered F30, therefore adjustable end links are unnecessary.

I agree. I was just clarifying the other statements made regarding end links. OP described his ride height as "slammed" so I'm guessing his car isn't moderately lowered.

I have lowered my car on HR springs and was able to continue to use my OE end links without any issues.

[andino]

FWIW, I'm lowered on b14s with a 14" center of wheel to fender distance and I needed to change my end link lengths due to contact on large bumps as well as a noticeable amount of preload on my sways. Keep in mind, I'm an xdrive car as well so 14" measured from center of wheel to fender is a larger drop than a rwd car.

I also noticed the same while I was lowered on KW V1s so the symptoms are independent of the type of suspension I'm running. I was 1/2" lower on V1s than I am currently on b14s

[M4_GTS]

Originally Posted by andino

FWIW, I'm lowered on b14s with a 14" center of wheel to fender distance and I needed to change my end link lengths due to contact on large bumps as well as a noticeable amount of preload on my sways. Keep in mind, I'm an xdrive car as well so 14" measured from center of wheel to fender is a larger drop than a rwd car.

I also noticed the same while I was lowered on KW V1s so the symptoms are independent of the type of suspension I'm running. I was 1/2" lower on V1s than I am currently on b14s

Seriously why would there be preload on your endlinks? Are you only jacking up oneside of the car? The sway bar rotates in the bushing and if both side are in the air, there should be no preload.

[///M248]

FWIW my shop installed a new end link on the passenger side. The bushing on the old one was shot. No more clunks now.

They said I’ll need adjustables as they expect these to wear out fast. They said the drop is adding extra pressure thus wearing out the bushings.

[andino]

Originally Posted by M4_GTS

Seriously why would there be preload on your endlinks? Are you only jacking up oneside of the car? The sway bar rotates in the bushing and if both side are in the air, there should be no preload.

If you drop different amounts in each corner, there will be preload on the bar not being level at the endlinks. Also the sway will no longer be at an at rest position with a powered car if you don't change endlinks length.

You're more than welcome to run stock links after being lowered. If you don't notice a difference that's fine too. I did and knew what I needed to change to fix it. I'm very happy with how my suspension responds now so I stand by that decision.

[M4_GTS]

Originally Posted by andino

If you drop different amounts in each corner, there will be preload on the bar not being level at the endlinks. Also the sway will no longer be at an at rest position with a powered car if you don't change endlinks length.

You're more than welcome to run stock links after being lowered. If you don't notice a difference that's fine too. I did and knew what I needed to change to fix it. I'm very happy with how my suspension responds now so I stand by that decision.

So did you corner balance your car? If not I don't see why you're running dropping different amount on the same axle. Even if you did corner balance, the sway bar shouldn't be preloaded.

I am lowered on KW and I believe the end link mounting point is higher up on the front strut already.