[Oksamit78]

I'm experimenting with yellow DRLs in the headlights of my car. I know some people don't like the CSL DRLs and others do. This post is meant to share the experience and give a visual guidance to anyone who might be considering or be interested in such color change option. This modification is highly subjective.

Headlights: AHL LEDs (OEM North American version) made by Valeo.
Yellow DRL Board: Customized board, not available for purchase as plug-n-play even from Ali.
White: OEM
Images taken with phone cam and are not 100% matching the real color. I did my best. In real, the yellow is more saturated (not on amber side, though).

Early morning (no direct sunlight):


Pitch black at night:


The Yellow LED boards for non-AHL headlights are available for purchase from Ali. These boards are different to the boards required for AHL headlights. Here is an example:
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/10050...d=W1C4Tms921ZL

[WhiteCollarMetalHead]

Understanding mods like this are subjective, a functional solution is always good to find. I tend to like different color options on different cars, or even different color cars of the same model. I see these are specifically for non-adaptive lights. Do you know if there is an option for the adaptive lights?

[Oksamit78]

Originally Posted by WhiteCollarMetalHead

Understanding mods like this are subjective, a functional solution is always good to find. I tend to like different color options on different cars, or even different color cars of the same model. I see these are specifically for non-adaptive lights. Do you know if there is an option for the adaptive lights?

My car (F34) has the adaptive headlights, so I had to re-purpose (modify, which involved soldering) boards from a completely different BMW model. No "ready to go" or "plug-n-play" solution available for adaptive F34 headlights as of yet. I even spoke to several sellers/manufactures on Ali/Alibaba about this.

On a sad note, looking into the DRLs in my car made me discover that the passenger side assembly had been incorrectly assembled at the factory and that one of the light tubes for the DRLs (the outer one) had developed a torsional crack over the years while been forced to twist by the DRL heat sink. This explained why one of the rings went dim 3 months ago.
I'm either going to disassemble the headlight (remove the lens) so I can reach the guts of it to repair or purchase the replacement adaptive headlight for a lot of pennies.

[habzg94]

Hey, I took your advise on my previous post and ordered the DRL module from Ali express it works fine however the outer ring is id say 4000k white and the inner is 3500k - ive had a good look at the light tubes and cannot see any damage or burning on them, im starting to think this could be a voltage issue? this issue doesn't happen on the driver side lights if anything they are both 3500k and brighter for some reason

[Billfitz]

I doubt that it's voltage related. LED color doesn't change with voltage.

[Oksamit78]

Originally Posted by habzg94

Hey, I took your advise on my previous post and ordered the DRL module from Ali express it works fine however the outer ring is id say 4000k white and the inner is 3500k - ive had a good look at the light tubes and cannot see any damage or burning on them, im starting to think this could be a voltage issue? this issue doesn't happen on the driver side lights if anything they are both 3500k and brighter for some reason

I remember reading in your original post that you had purchased the OEM replacement for 65 pounds and, may be, were considering getting the boards from ALi as back-up...

So, for clarity, is the difference you are describing with the OEM new replacement or with the assemblies purchased from Ali?

While working on the heat sinks in my car and removing/reinstalling them I have noticed one crucial thing: the brightness of the DRLs is VERY HIGHLY dependent on alignment of the LED cluster against the end of the light tube. You can test that by releasing the mounting screws and then moving the heat sink up and down (not side to side!) ever so slightly while the lights are on. I suggest you re-inspect the heat sink for location of LED clusters and boards. Compare to OEM assembly. It could be that the board responsible for the dimmer DRL is not glued onto the sink in correct spot and is slightly off.

The other culprit, like Billfitz indirectly implied - the LEDs themselves. Often enough, the LED crystals are not perfectly matching in light output (or color), esp with possible loose Quality Control at 3d party manufacture. I don't know where the aftermarket manufacturer could have acquired the LEDs, but they could be not Osram manufactured like OEM.

Are you sure you are seeing a color change (3500K vs 4000K) or is it a brightness difference (mcd measurement)?

P.S. The images I show above are with the ALi purchased heat sink assembly with one board replaced with Yellow LEDs board, this is not a modified OEM heat sink assembly.

[habzg94]

Yes, that is correct ! - I had purchased a genuine part on Ebay, however after it being fitted a few days I noticed again the outer ring was less bright, upon further inspection (removing the unit) I noticed a small crack in the LED - I was extremely cautious in fitting the new part so I wouldn't like to think I damaged it during installation (like i said it worked perfectly for a few days) and somehow my LED's are getting fried. i then purchased the part from Ali express with this i have noticed as mentioned with colour temp seems to be the issue the inner ring and outer don't match

Originally Posted by Oksamit78

I remember reading in your original post that you had purchased the OEM replacement for 65 pounds and, may be, were considering getting the boards from ALi as back-up...

So, for clarity, is the difference you are describing with the OEM new replacement or with the assemblies purchased from Ali?

While working on the heat sinks in my car and removing/reinstalling them I have noticed one crucial thing: the brightness of the DRLs is VERY HIGHLY dependent on alignment of the LED cluster against the end of the light tube. You can test that by releasing the mounting screws and then moving the heat sink up and down (not side to side!) ever so slightly while the lights are on. I suggest you re-inspect the heat sink for location of LED clusters and boards. Compare to OEM assembly. It could be that the board responsible for the dimmer DRL is not glued onto the sink in correct spot and is slightly off.

The other culprit, like Billfitz indirectly implied - the LEDs themselves. Often enough, the LED crystals are not perfectly matching in light output (or color), esp with possible loose Quality Control at 3d party manufacture. I don't know where the aftermarket manufacturer could have acquired the LEDs, but they could be not Osram manufactured like OEM.

Are you sure you are seeing a color change (3500K vs 4000K) or is it a brightness difference (mcd measurement)?

P.S. The images I show above are with the ALi purchased heat sink assembly with one board replaced with Yellow LEDs board, this is not a modified OEM heat sink assembly.

[habzg94]

It would be helpful if i supply pictures, ill go out and take some later tonight

Originally Posted by Oksamit78

I remember reading in your original post that you had purchased the OEM replacement for 65 pounds and, may be, were considering getting the boards from ALi as back-up...

So, for clarity, is the difference you are describing with the OEM new replacement or with the assemblies purchased from Ali?

While working on the heat sinks in my car and removing/reinstalling them I have noticed one crucial thing: the brightness of the DRLs is VERY HIGHLY dependent on alignment of the LED cluster against the end of the light tube. You can test that by releasing the mounting screws and then moving the heat sink up and down (not side to side!) ever so slightly while the lights are on. I suggest you re-inspect the heat sink for location of LED clusters and boards. Compare to OEM assembly. It could be that the board responsible for the dimmer DRL is not glued onto the sink in correct spot and is slightly off.

The other culprit, like Billfitz indirectly implied - the LEDs themselves. Often enough, the LED crystals are not perfectly matching in light output (or color), esp with possible loose Quality Control at 3d party manufacture. I don't know where the aftermarket manufacturer could have acquired the LEDs, but they could be not Osram manufactured like OEM.

Are you sure you are seeing a color change (3500K vs 4000K) or is it a brightness difference (mcd measurement)?

P.S. The images I show above are with the ALi purchased heat sink assembly with one board replaced with Yellow LEDs board, this is not a modified OEM heat sink assembly.

[habzg94]

as attached

[Oksamit78]

Yeah, looks like that LED did explode...
Looking at your picture of the angel eyes - I still think it is the brightness issue and not the color issue. Something is not right almost like not all 3 LEDs in each group are lighting up. What I've done in the past - took the screws out and lifted the heat sink assembly out of the headlight to verify that all LEDs are on. You think you could try that? Make sure you don't stare into the LEDs (use sun glasses) and try counting if all are lit.
Good luck.

[habzg94]

Cheers, i did try moving the heatsink but i think my issue is pretty isolated as this has happened twice now same LED has been damaged on 3 moduels now, original bmw that came with the car the ebay one and now ali expresss one, something is definitely going on - i have restored all angel eye brightness coding options. The problem only seems to happen when i lift the heat sink, it burns out as soon as i lift it for some reason, anyway I have ordered the part now from BMW directly and once its in im not going to touch it

Originally Posted by Oksamit78

Yeah, looks like that LED did explode...
Looking at your picture of the angel eyes - I still think it is the brightness issue and not the color issue. Something is not right almost like not all 3 LEDs in each group are lighting up. What I've done in the past - took the screws out and lifted the heat sink assembly out of the headlight to verify that all LEDs are on. You think you could try that? Make sure you don't stare into the LEDs (use sun glasses) and try counting if all are lit.
Good luck.

[Oksamit78]

Originally Posted by habzg94

Cheers, i did try moving the heatsink but i think my issue is pretty isolated as this has happened twice now same LED has been damaged on 3 moduels now, original bmw that came with the car the ebay one and now ali expresss one, something is definitely going on - i have restored all angel eye brightness coding options. The problem only seems to happen when i lift the heat sink, it burns out as soon as i lift it for some reason, anyway I have ordered the part now from BMW directly and once its in im not going to touch it

That's the plan

When I was describing the lifting I have omitted that the removal of the heat sink to be done with the LEDs off and then turn them on once the assembly is above the headlight. At least that's how I've done mine numerous times.

Keep us posted how it goes with the new replacement heat sink.

[habzg94]

Just collected the part from BMW a little while ago and fitted, to my surprise before leaving the dealership I opened the part and to my surprise an LED was damaged on it (same as the pictures i posted), I showed them and they took pictures of it and gave me another unit which was completely fine, fitted it just now and everything is as it should be, I cleaned the light tube gently as it appears as though upon the LED breaking it was stuck to the tube face. I have told myself no more undoing the DRL module lol. Thanks for your assistance, one thing i did notice though between the Ali and OEM part is there seems be to alot more thermal paste used on the OEM.

Originally Posted by Oksamit78

That's the plan

When I was describing the lifting I have omitted that the removal of the heat sink to be done with the LEDs off and then turn them on once the assembly is above the headlight. At least that's how I've done mine numerous times.

Keep us posted how it goes with the new replacement heat sink.

[habzg94]

Sorry to jump on your post by the way, I did not intend to take over, regarding colour changes CSL Yellow, When looking at solutions for fixing my DRL's I came across a company who does PCB repairs, I'm wondering if such a company could help with lighting modifications at a reasonable cost

[Oksamit78]

Originally Posted by habzg94

Sorry to jump on your post by the way, I did not intend to take over, regarding colour changes CSL Yellow, When looking at solutions for fixing my DRL's I came across a company who does PCB repairs, I'm wondering if such a company could help with lighting modifications at a reasonable cost

All good. Glad it worked out for you.

As for the PCB boards, the current boards can not be simply modified by removing the white LEDs and replacing them with yellow - the difference in the cathode/anode design between two types of LEDs. The PCB boards have to be fully re-designed and manufactured from scratch to work with yellow LEDs. That's why I've re-purposed boards with yellow LEDs that were meant for other BMW headlights.

Yes, the thermal paste difference is noticeable. It is not a regular thermal paste (used on computer chips and such) it is a thermal paste/epoxy/glue that also holds the boards in place. I use special two part thermal epoxy myself.

[habzg94]

ahh I see, my ignorance obliviously I didn't realise it was that complex!

Originally Posted by Oksamit78

All good. Glad it worked out for you.

As for the PCB boards, the current boards can not be simply modified by removing the white LEDs and replacing them with yellow - the difference in the cathode/anode design between two types of LEDs. The PCB boards have to be fully re-designed and manufactured from scratch to work with yellow LEDs. That's why I've re-purposed boards with yellow LEDs that were meant for other BMW headlights.

Yes, the thermal paste difference is noticeable. It is not a regular thermal paste (used on computer chips and such) it is a thermal paste/epoxy/glue that also holds the boards in place. I use special two part thermal epoxy myself.

[habzg94]

And just like that I am back again, the nightmare continues! was driving along and bong DRL error, got out the car to have a look and to my surprise no light being emitted, however when I got home home I locked the car and unlocked it came back on briefly, at this moment in time it is not working again. I must be having some other electrical issues. My cousin is a mechanic and has bmw diagnostic software, he said he will plug my car in over the weekend and test the modules to see what the issue could be, my car is a 2019 i checked my drivers side unit and the date of manufacture is 2019 however the passenger side which I'm having issues with is 2021 manufacture date. which would suggest there maybe more to the story here. I will keep you updated on it just in the interest of troubleshooting if this can help anyone else out there.

Originally Posted by Oksamit78

All good. Glad it worked out for you.

As for the PCB boards, the current boards can not be simply modified by removing the white LEDs and replacing them with yellow - the difference in the cathode/anode design between two types of LEDs. The PCB boards have to be fully re-designed and manufactured from scratch to work with yellow LEDs. That's why I've re-purposed boards with yellow LEDs that were meant for other BMW headlights.

Yes, the thermal paste difference is noticeable. It is not a regular thermal paste (used on computer chips and such) it is a thermal paste/epoxy/glue that also holds the boards in place. I use special two part thermal epoxy myself.

[Oksamit78]

Originally Posted by habzg94

i checked my drivers side unit and the date of manufacture is 2019 however the passenger side which I'm having issues with is 2021 manufacture date.

Are you talking about the manufacturing dates located on the Valeo stickers located next to the DRL heat sinks on the top surface of the headlights? What about the part numbers on those stickers? - Does the newer headlight have the same generation part number (last digit number difference by 1) and revision (-0# after the part number) or is it completely different?

[habzg94]

I have not checked part numbers yet but i will take a look now, only had a look at the Valeo stickers

Originally Posted by Oksamit78

Are you talking about the manufacturing dates located on the Valeo stickers located next to the DRL heat sinks on the top surface of the headlights? What about the part numbers on those stickers? - Does the newer headlight have the same generation part number (last digit number difference by 1) and revision (-0# after the part number) or is it completely different?

[habzg94]

So I had the car plugged in and diagnosed with Ista+ It states the battery is weak and there is an issue with the headlight control module, my cousin removed the main power connector and surprisingly it was very loose he plugged it back in and the DRL's came on at full brightness for a a moment, I have a feeling the headlight control module (OE part number 8494844 ) is at fault here and that is causing the same LED's to explode as per the last 3 DRL modules I've put in. I have warranty on the car and its booked in to be seen on 12/4 ( i have not removed the current DRL module the BMW OE as i have feeling the LED chip inside has blown on that too, i will leave it for the warranty company to fix. Will update further as i go along.

Originally Posted by Oksamit78

Are you talking about the manufacturing dates located on the Valeo stickers located next to the DRL heat sinks on the top surface of the headlights? What about the part numbers on those stickers? - Does the newer headlight have the same generation part number (last digit number difference by 1) and revision (-0# after the part number) or is it completely different?

[karcio424]

Hi, what SMD LEDs did you solder to your custom boards? My modules have burned/exploded LEDs, so the circuit is opened and nothing works. I wanted to fix them, but I don't know what SMD size and voltage to use.

Thanks in advance
Karol