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      06-08-2018, 08:36 PM   #89
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Doubt it. From Pi POE specs:

Input voltage 36-56V, output voltage 5V, output current 10-1300mA, max output power 6.5W

There is no such voltage source available through OBD to pass through the ENET cable.
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      06-08-2018, 09:23 PM   #90
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Ah okay. I was unaware of the high input voltage required.

Do you think using a Ethernet splitter female to two males. Plug the ENET cable into the female. One male into the pi. Cut the other male off and wire a micro USB to the power wires and plug that into the pi power.

Or last choice just split the power from pin 16 on the obd to the micro USB to power the pi.
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      06-08-2018, 09:39 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaredG_F30 View Post
That's awesome. Other then reconfiguring the agent SSID and PW did you make any other changes. That being said, it seems logical that having a home WiFI network with SSID bootmod3 and PW bootmod3, the agent should connect without needed to be reconfigured.
Having the SSID and Password the same on a home WiFI Network seems like a very serious Security Issue.

I can assign 4 SSIDs on my Access Points but quickly realized this would be a Security Issue unless you can isolate from rest of network.

Likewise, Iím a bit concerned about having a SSID and Password the same where a hacker to access my car at home or in motion while I am in it.
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      06-08-2018, 09:44 PM   #92
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Holy shit props to you guys....incredible work here.
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      06-08-2018, 09:49 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodtoGo View Post
From Pi POE specs:

Input voltage 36-56V, output voltage 5V, output current 10-1300mA, max output power 6.5W
What power does the Raspberry Pi need?

EDIT: Answering my own question 5V and 2.5A for Pi 3B and 1.8A for Pi 3B+

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trever007 View Post
Do you guys think a PoE hat or PoE to USB adapter would work to power the Pi from the OBD port through the E-Net cable? This way no other power source is needed for a cleaner install.

https://uk.pi-supply.com/products/pi...r-raspberry-pi
You have me thinking.

However I note this unit says it is for Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+ and reading this thread, everyone is saying the B+ doesn’t work.

As there is a step down converter from 48V to 5V in this unit, you would need a 48VDC power supply in the vehicle and obviously that presents it own set of issues.
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      06-08-2018, 11:19 PM   #94
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But what about powering it directly from the OBD pin 16? Wire a mini toggle switch inline if you'd like. But just split off the +12v 4a from the OBD and run it to a step down then to micro USB.
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      06-09-2018, 02:10 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trever007 View Post
But what about powering it directly from the OBD pin 16? Wire a mini toggle switch inline if you'd like. But just split off the +12v 4a from the OBD and run it to a step down then to micro USB.
I’m thinking along the same lines you are.

However, there are 16 pins on an ODB-2 connector.

Ethernet RG45 connectors only have 8 pins and 4 twisted pair in the cable iirc.

So I suspect pin 16 is not even connected to one of the Ethernet wires, but perhaps pin #1 if switched 12 VDC (if connected to Ethernet wiring)?
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      06-09-2018, 04:22 AM   #96
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If you look at pin 1 on a recent BMW OBD socket you will likely see it is unpopulated (please tell me if you do not find this on E/F series cars since 2010/N55). Pin 16 is continuously powered. Pin 8 is so that you only enable ethernet when a device is plugged in to avoid FM radio interference.

It is an interesting idea to have the cell phone make a hotspot the same as the home network. How does this differ between Android and iOS? My problem for another OBD device is how to have the phone connect to home WiFi whilst also connect to the OBD device, but still connect to the device when away from the home network with minimal or no fuss.
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      06-09-2018, 06:57 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trever007 View Post
But what about powering it directly from the OBD pin 16? Wire a mini toggle switch inline if you'd like. But just split off the +12v 4a from the OBD and run it to a step down then to micro USB.
This ^

Get an OBD 2 way splitter with an OBD to micro USB 5V adapter plugged into one of the legs. All those parts are available.

For all that effort and parts, might as well route to USB power like most do.
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      06-09-2018, 04:11 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaredG_F30 View Post

1. Download firmware from here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/blw8yew4us...12.img.gz?dl=0
2. Unzip the provided .gz file. On Windows you can use WinRAR or 7-zip software to extract the downloaded .gz file from the above link. On macOS in most cases itíll just unzip automatically after downloading. Unzipped file will have a .img extension and the file will be just below 8 GB in size.
3. Write the .img file to the card. You can use Win32DiskImager (on Windows) or Etcher (on macOS), both free utilities:

Win32DiskImager:
https://sourceforge.net/projects/win32diskimager/

Etcher:
https://etcher.io/
Is this Raspbian OS or NOOBS or what OS?
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      06-11-2018, 08:44 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IK6SPEED View Post
Is this Raspbian OS or NOOBS or what OS?
I'm not sure what OS they wrote the firmware for but all you have to do is image the SD card. You don't need to load Raspbian or NOOBS.
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      06-11-2018, 09:12 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IK6SPEED View Post
Having the SSID and Password the same on a home WiFI Network seems like a very serious Security Issue.

I can assign 4 SSIDs on my Access Points but quickly realized this would be a Security Issue unless you can isolate from rest of network.

Likewise, Iím a bit concerned about having a SSID and Password the same where a hacker to access my car at home or in motion while I am in it.
Simple: You change the SSID/Pass that the device is preconfigured to join with. PTF gives instructions on how to do this and it's really simple. As for malicious actors, chances of that are extremely low. You have the hotspot in your car while driving and that's it. I mean, if you have a #1 fan to stay within the range of your hotspot while on the road, then you might have other issues to deal with.
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      06-11-2018, 09:30 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by IK6SPEED View Post
Having the SSID and Password the same on a home WiFI Network seems like a very serious Security Issue.

I can assign 4 SSIDs on my Access Points but quickly realized this would be a Security Issue unless you can isolate from rest of network.

Likewise, I’m a bit concerned about having a SSID and Password the same where a hacker to access my car at home or in motion while I am in it.
Simple: You change the SSID/Pass that the device is preconfigured to join with. PTF gives instructions on how to do this and it's really simple. As for malicious actors, chances of that are extremely low. You have the hotspot in your car while driving and that's it. I mean, if you have a #1 fan to stay within the range of your hotspot while on the road, then you might have other issues to deal with.
Your house isn't moving and giving access to the network that your other home computers are on is dangerous
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      06-11-2018, 10:43 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IK6SPEED View Post
Your house isn't moving and giving access to the network that your other home computers are on is dangerous
I'm fully aware of that as someone in the field. I'm not advocating for hooking it to your home WiFi as I don't even see the point. Furthermore, it's an RP3 that you can put on your WiFi regardless of its usage.

Regardless, the easiest thing for users to do is to have it go to their phone. If your phone has terrible service where you flash and you can't share WiFi via tether, then bring the device in and have it connect to your phone. The device only needs to be powered and not connected to the car. It's a ton of trouble to go through reconfiguring your Wifi each time to download a map that takes less than 10 seconds. The payoff even if you could get it to connect to the home WiFi is very little.
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      06-15-2018, 10:22 AM   #103
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Awesome thread thanks for the great info. I'm totally doing this. Has anyone thought about taping into power under the center console for the microUSB power source? I think i'll pin-out the front USB port between the cup holders and tap there. Then run under the steering wheel behind that console. That way all native USB ports are still available and look stock. If it works out and I have the room I'll also go through a toggle switch like the one in the link below, so I can turn the agent on/off. Not that I think I'll ever want it off but it's a cool toggle.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Laser-...wAAOSw1NFaGaXp
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      06-15-2018, 12:16 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noelified View Post
Awesome thread thanks for the great info. I'm totally doing this. Has anyone thought about taping into power under the center console for the microUSB power source? I think i'll pin-out the front USB port between the cup holders and tap there. Then run under the steering wheel behind that console. That way all native USB ports are still available and look stock. If it works out and I have the room I'll also go through a toggle switch like the one in the link below, so I can turn the agent on/off. Not that I think I'll ever want it off but it's a cool toggle.
I’ll not comment on your choice of Trucker’s switch.

The USB circuit is overtaxed as is and typically outputs only 0.2A. The newer NBT EVO can output 0.5A if Code is changed. You will find many threads of the circuit having issues powering newer larger smartphones. Adding another draw on that would only bog it down more.

The raspberry pi 3 is speced at 1.5A - 2.5A. It technically shouldn’t work on the USB, but obviously it does. Barely. Probably because of the lack of screen and other Pi options.

The underpower also concerns me from several other perspectives. Overloading a circuit is never good and I have no idea what protection a BMW has on the USB circuit.

I am looking to mount mine in dash above part #5. I am thinking there should be plenty of room as I do not have the storage box (2), but the switch panel (1).

Plan to use ODB pin 1 for power (switched) instead of 16 and step down voltage from 12V to 5V.

Hope to connect Y adapter to ODB and replace OEM ODB with Y connector ODB so ODB is unpopulated in Drivers Footwell.
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      06-15-2018, 12:46 PM   #105
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I use the rear cigarette lighter port with a USB adapter to power mine. No issues so far. I do this because I don't want to lose the center console USB/Audio connection to my phone.
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      06-15-2018, 01:49 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IK6SPEED View Post
Iíll not comment on your choice of Truckerís switch.

The USB circuit is overtaxed as is and typically outputs only 0.2A. The newer NBT EVO can output 0.5A if Code is changed. You will find many threads of the circuit having issues powering newer larger smartphones. Adding another draw on that would only bog it down more.

The raspberry pi 3 is speced at 1.5A - 2.5A. It technically shouldnít work on the USB, but obviously it does. Barely. Probably because of the lack of screen and other Pi options.

The underpower also concerns me from several other perspectives. Overloading a circuit is never good and I have no idea what protection a BMW has on the USB circuit.

I am looking to mount mine in dash above part #5. I am thinking there should be plenty of room as I do not have the storage box (2), but the switch panel (1).

Plan to use ODB pin 1 for power (switched) instead of 16 and step down voltage from 12V to 5V.

Hope to connect Y adapter to ODB and replace OEM ODB with Y connector ODB so ODB is unpopulated in Drivers Footwell.
Ha Ha, yeah I couldn't help but throw that switch up there, I didn't even know those existed when I started looking for a simple toggle.

You make a good point about overloading. I'll look use a good 12v connection and use a 12v USB adapter. There is one where I was referring to, between the cup holders, and I never use it anyway. I also like your idea of Y adapting the OBD. Post what you come up with for that.

You will find PLENTY of room behind part 5. I made a Y harness to adapt the LCI dual illuminated dash trim and ran it through from the foot well light.
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      06-15-2018, 01:54 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noelified View Post
Ha Ha, yeah I couldn't help but throw that switch up there, I didn't even know those existed when I started looking for a simple toggle.

You make a good point about overloading. I'll look use a good 12v connection and use a 12v USB adapter. There is one where I was referring to, between the cup holders, and I never use it anyway. I also like your idea of Y adapting the OBD. Post what you come up with for that.

You will find PLENTY of room behind part 5. I made a Y harness to adapt the LCI dual illuminated dash trim and ran it through from the foot well light.
12v USB Adapter is not going to output the kind of amperage a Pi wants.
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      06-15-2018, 03:45 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IK6SPEED View Post
12v USB Adapter is not going to output the kind of amperage a Pi wants.
Now this whole thing has me wondering how stable it will be if it's only power source is USB yet has a demand greater than what the standard adapter can feed it.

So I think i'm not understanding this. The Pi 3 i'm looking at is expected to be powered from a micro USB through a port rated to a max draw of 2.5A. My assumption is their spec 1.5A - 2.5A is for the microUSB port (as a power source) can handle up to 2.5A draw. So technically if all four USB ports are used at the same time it is capable of supplying the standard 500mA each and thus considered a USB-compliant device. I agree with you a standard USB charger will not supply 5v at 2.5A, but I don't think the Pi is drawing near 2.5A in this application. It is my understanding and correct me if there is conflicting data; A Pi 3B, no HDMI, no USB accessories, and LEDs off, idles around 230mA and under full CPU load draws ~730mA (on board WiFi adds ~50mA).
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      06-15-2018, 03:49 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noelified View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by IK6SPEED View Post
12v USB Adapter is not going to output the kind of amperage a Pi wants.
Now this whole thing has me wondering how stable it will be if it's only power source is USB yet has a demand greater than what the standard adapter can feed it.

So I think i'm not understanding this. The Pi 3 i'm looking at is expected to be powered from a micro USB through a port rated to a max draw of 2.5A. My assumption is their spec 1.5A - 2.5A is for the microUSB port (as a power source) can handle up to 2.5A draw. So technically if all four USB ports are used at the same time it is capable of supplying the standard 500mA each and thus considered a USB-compliant device. I agree with you a standard USB charger will not supply 5v at 2.5A, but I don't think the Pi is drawing near 2.5A in this application. It is my understanding and correct me if there is conflicting data; A Pi 3B, no HDMI, no USB accessories, and LEDs off, idles around 230mA and under full CPU load draws ~730mA (on board WiFi adds ~50mA).
No idea. As I stated above, the spec is 1.5A - 2.5A.

I also noted they clearly are working for OP and others, probably because of lack of accessories.

How much overhead there is, I just do not know.
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      06-15-2018, 03:55 PM   #110
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So, as someone who has been using the agent for about six months, here is my setup with no issues:

I have mine tucked away underneath the steering wheel (So part #7 of IK6SPEED's photo). ENET cable is tucked away in there as well and while I haven't done it yet, you could unclip the OBDII connector so it can also be tucked away and out of sight. I've just gotten used to the plug at this point. Then I'm taking advantage of the 12v socket underneath the glovebox (it's near the left side, underneath.) with a dual-USB adapter. Then I have the cable wired through the trim, under the A/C controls, and then to the Pi. I then have the second USB port ran a similar route but it comes out just after the A/C controls in order to plug into my cup-holder-mounted tablet, which I use for BM3.

No issues with this setup yet! (Except for the time I left my tablet out and the sun melted the glue on the magnet lol)
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