[milthorst]

Originally Posted by Lancelot

Same here, 2014 AH3 with 225/40/19 MPSS on 442M wheels

Better camber for sure, increased caster unless you also fit the F80 Tension struts, you'll love it for windy roads.

Alignment is more than needed, the LCA will completely change the toe so you can't even drive out.

On that wear aspect I can't comment other than saying nothing of notice is showing for my tyres.

Has anybody counted turns on the tie rods or measured the change in length? This would be a great help to make a rough setting before driving to the alignment shop. BTW, I plan to stay with the stock 8x18 wheels, so I don't anticipate any rubbing problems.

[AGONXF30]

Gang!

Here reviving an old thread, but I have some questions.

Its time to replace some of my suspension components due to wear, I want to try the F80 Torsion Strut/Trust Arm (TS) and the F80 Lower Control Arm (LCA). I am completely stock with the sport springs and the Adaptive M suspension. Should I expect any issues with the cars suspension after the swap?

[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by AGONXF30

Gang!

Here reviving an old thread, but I have some questions.

Its time to replace some of my suspension components due to wear, I want to try the F80 Torsion Strut/Trust Arm (TS) and the F80 Lower Control Arm (LCA). I am completely stock with the sport springs and the Adaptive M suspension. Should I expect any issues with the cars suspension after the swap?

The suspension will be just fine, only after it has had a proper alignment, though. Driving without an alignment immediately following the install could throw off your toe and eat your tires exceptionally fast. After, expect more aggressive turn in, better brake and steering feel, and less understeer.

[Littlebear]

Hello BMW Experts!

I've been reading the Mx35i threads on the LCA, and they report getting ~ -2 degrees camber with the M3/4 LCA (ie: ~ -1.0 over stock). But they have a different knuckle than my F30, meaning I should have ~ -1 > -1.5 degrees camber. This should be fine for the street.
I haven't figured out if the M3/4 TS will give me more camber or not (< -0.5 extra?). Since the TS doesn't change toe, I figure very minimal camber change if any. But the M3/4 TS does correct the caster back (from M3/4-like specs)to stock to some degree. I don't see rub on my car, and many others don't have rub. So for me the Question would be if I like the feel of more caster or not; some do some don't.
I feel the mountains calling....

"I had both, started with LCA only, added TS later on hoping to reduce caster, but that changes absolutely nothing, we compared both F8x and F3x TS side by side: no difference. And it was still rubbing after adding TS.
TS will not change camber at all, only caster, the BMW official repair manuals also mention alignment isn’t required when changing tension struts.
What you can try if caster (and rubbing) was a issue is to fit the TS with caster adjustable bushings (powerflex, superpro...), this would allow to reduce caster a bit and try to get back within more normal values."

Murf

[k3vin0615]

Hi.
I have a 2013 335i M sport with EDC suspension.
My car has 66k miles but due to mostly city driving i feel as my suspension is already worn out.
Im looking to upgrade instead of just replacing with oem.
So theres is only the tension arm and lower control arm M options? What else should be replace at this mileage up front as i feel thats where most my squeaks and rattles are coming from?
I am also thinking about replacing my edc suspension with coilovers.
I will most likely go with BC racing coilovers and KW edc cancelation kit.
M tension arms with M lower control arms.
What else you guys recommend?

[HP Autosport]

bump

[Littlebear]

Hello BMW Experts!

Is changing the TS harder than changing the LCA? Specifically:
-is the upside down balljoint on the hub a pain?
-do you have to remove the disc & backing plate as Bentley says?

TIA! Murf

[Lancelot]

Changing isn’t different from LCA, but did you note that he bushing doesn’t have the same size on f80 and f30? You need either spacers or change bushings completely, which makes it a more complicated process.

[Littlebear]

Originally Posted by Lancelot

Changing isn’t different from LCA, but did you note that he bushing doesn’t have the same size on f80 and f30? You need either spacers or change bushings completely, which makes it a more complicated process.

Thanks Lancelot,

Got the spacer info; I don't really like opening & disturbing the bearings, & hoped to avoid that.
Pic of wheel, showing position with M3/4 LCA.

Murf

[E60F30]

Hello all,

Apologies for reviving an old thread. Been reading up on F8x replacement LCA threads.

While the general consensus is that the F8x LCAs are a direct swap, plug and play I found a post stating that a 1mm shim is required for the LCAs to fit right?

"While I was loosening the bolt on the driver side, I noticed the mounting tabs moved a significant amount away from the arm's bushing center. After fully loosening, I found that the arm had a lot of play between the subframe tabs. A 2mm shim was too big to squeeze in the gap, but a 1mm shim fit nicely. This shim made the F8x arm fit like the stock arm (which I had on hand for comparison)."

Thread can be found here: Specifically post #105 http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showt...1079766&page=5

Did anyone here need the added 1mm shim?

[MacklinUSOB]

EDIT: Raised ride height about 1/2" and they fit without any problems. See bottom photo.

So I finally took the plunge and ordered the LCA's for my car. From what I read, I don't expect to have rubbing issues, but wanted to see if there were others out there who have installed these with a similar setup to mine.

I am lowered to the point where there is no wheel gap, but no tuck either. My wheels are 18x8.5et38 all around wrapped in 245/40 PS4S.

Is there anyone who could give me some reassurance? I intend to go another route if there is rubbing.

Photo for assistance

Post install

[MacklinUSOB]

Edit: Zero problems, please disregard. Hope this info helps others.

So I have my car in the shop as I write this and I just got off the phone with them. While they haven't reported any issues as far as rubbing goes, my foreman was concerned with the extension of the tie rod ends and that they are very close to the end of adjustment to compensate for all the toe these add. He is estimating 1/4" on the threads.

My question is, has anyone here ran into any issues with their tie rods in conjuncture with this upgrade?

I have done some searching across the board and I can't seem to find anyone even hinting at their tie rod arms not successfully accommodating the excess toe compensation. Thanks in advance.

[ibn_adam]

Nothing to say

[ibn_adam]

Thanks MacklinUSOB!

[52172]

What are the ideal spacer sizes? I was gonna source stainless spacers 1.5” od .5” id two 15mm wide and 2 2mm’s wide? These are the correct sizes I believe? Thanks

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB

So I have my car in the shop as I write this and I just got off the phone with them. While they haven't reported any issues as far as rubbing goes, my foreman was concerned with the extension of the tie rod ends and that they are very close to the end of adjustment to compensate for all the toe these add. He is estimating 1/4" on the threads where toe is true again and suggests this might not be exactly safe...

My question is, has anyone here ran into any issues with their tie rods in conjuncture with this upgrade?

I have done some searching across the board and I can't seem to find anyone even hinting at their tie rod arms not successfully accommodating the excess toe compensation. Thanks in advance.

Edit: Zero problems, please disregard. Hope this info helps others.

Wouldn't it be better to just buy adjustable camber LCA bushings than try to retrofit M3/M4 parts into a 335i?

https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...?category=1790

[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Wouldn't it be better to just buy adjustable camber LCA bushings than try to retrofit M3/M4 parts into a 335i?

https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...?category=1790

It sounds like you're asking a question by giving an answer. I suggest you do what you think is better.

I wanted the ball joints and bushes replaced, the arms take care of both for less.

[52172]

Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB

It sounds like you're asking a question by giving an answer. I suggest you do what you think is better.

I wanted the ball joints and bushes replaced, the arms take care of both for less.

You running spacers? F80 TS’s?

[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by 52172

You running spacers? F80 TS's?

I currently only have the LCAs installed. Tension struts will be replaced this spring using the guidance on spacers from this post. Thread is a good read if you're going down this road.

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show...1&postcount=41

[52172]

Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB

I currently only have the LCAs installed. Tension struts will be replaced this spring using the guidance on spacers from this post. It's a good read if you're going down this road.

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=20133891

I am just want to make sure the best spacer size is 1.5" od .5" id and 2 12mm wide and other 2 2mm wide. I'm gonna have them made out of stainless steel.

[52172]

I see the more detailed specs. Those are the ideal sizes I guess? I'm going that route for sure. Stainless steel would be the best material.

[mose121]

Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB

So I have my car in the shop as I write this and I just got off the phone with them. While they haven't reported any issues as far as rubbing goes, my foreman was concerned with the extension of the tie rod ends and that they are very close to the end of adjustment to compensate for all the toe these add. He is estimating 1/4" on the threads where toe is true again and suggests this might not be exactly safe...

My question is, has anyone here ran into any issues with their tie rods in conjuncture with this upgrade?

I have done some searching across the board and I can't seem to find anyone even hinting at their tie rod arms not successfully accommodating the excess toe compensation. Thanks in advance.

Edit: Zero problems, please disregard. Hope this info helps others.

Anything ever come of this issue?