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      12-22-2018, 10:47 PM   #1
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Help diagnosing rough idle/stalling issue

So, excuse the newby but hoping I can take advantage of some other peoples experiences.

99% sure I have the High-Pressure Fuel Pump failure, so before I swap it out wanted to ask for some advice.

About 2 weeks ago, while driving to get gas (low fuel) the car suddenly misfired while under power. Got the drivetrain error and the car limped another 1/4 mile to the station. I shut it down and filled it up and when I restarted it the issue was gone, the power was back, and I assumed it has to do with the low fuel, perhaps due to starvation.

Fast forward to this past Thursday morning. I had driven about 100 miles the previous day without any issue. But when I started the car, it stalled within 5 seconds. Started it again and it stalled again. 3rd time I feathered the gas and once it gets to about 1200 RPM it clears up. So I held the RPMs up to try and warm up the car since I live in NY and it's getting cold here.

I use CARLY so I did a diagnostic pass and I have errors for misfires and lean conditions on every cylinder. 33 codes in total, almost all of them related to the engine.

Not sure if Carly can monitor the fuel pressure, but my next step is to clear all the codes and see if I can check the fuel pressure. Even if Carly can monitor it, not sure if I will be seeing the pressure at the in-tank pump, the pressure at the HPFP, or on the rail. Also not sure what a normal value should be, so if anyone has a known-good range that would be a helpful tidbit of info.

Here is a list of the error codes that I jotted down:
> 118401, 118001, 1400X0 (1,2,3,4), 140X02 (1,2,3,4), 14000X (1,2,3,4), 140X01(1,2,3,4), and a few more that appear to be repeated.

Any info you can share would be huge. Rather not swap a $1000 part only to learn it was not the cause of my issues. Even the $350 in-tank pump is a little too pricey to just swap.

Headed out to do some more recon - will check back later.

Season's Greetings to BMW owners everywhere! *LOL*
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      12-22-2018, 10:51 PM   #2
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Speaking of the in-tank pump - did you get it replaced as per the recall?
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      12-22-2018, 11:19 PM   #3
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Look here newtis.info and you should be able to find the spec'd fuel pressures. There may also be some troubleshooting procedure.
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      12-22-2018, 11:23 PM   #4
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Full list of codes

Here is what I got from Carly Diagnostics before clearing the codes:

118401 - mixture too lean, excessive deviation
118001 - mixture too lean
140010 - misfiring several cylinders
140001 - misfires, a plurality of cylinders, injection switched off
140410 - misfiring cylinder 4 recognized
140401 - misfiring cylinder 4, injection is switched off
140210 - misfire cylinder 2
140201 - misfiring cylinder 2, injection is switched off
140110 - misfiring cylinder 4 recognized
140310 - misfiring cylinder 3 recognized
140002 - misfiring several cylinders, exhaust harmful to startup
140102 - misfiring cylinder 1, exhaust gas harmful to start operation
140302 - misfiring cylinder 3, exhaust gas harmful to start operation
140402 - misfiring cylinder 4, exhaust gas harmful to start operation

140101 - MAF sensor circuit
140201 - injector circuit malfunction, cylinder 1
140301 - misfire cylinder 1
140401 - Exhaust EGR flow insufficient

140004 - Fuel volume regulator
140104 - MAF intermittent
140304 - misfire cylinder 4

Going to try cleaning the MAF tomorrow. Open to other suggestions.
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      12-22-2018, 11:25 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donkey View Post
Speaking of the in-tank pump - did you get it replaced as per the recall?
Checked on the BMW web site and it shows ZERO recalls for my car. So, it appears I am not able to get the pump swapped, at least not for free.

But good suggestion, would be nice to be able to rule something out...
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      12-22-2018, 11:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
Look here newtis.info and you should be able to find the spec'd fuel pressures. There may also be some troubleshooting procedure.
I'm going to go take a look now. TY for the pointer.
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      12-22-2018, 11:29 PM   #7
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      12-22-2018, 11:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WallySlash View Post
OK, this is interesting...

I see three items listed here, but none of them are fuel pump related.

ELW Coolant Thermostat
BMW N20 Leak Diagnosis Module (NVLD)
BMW N20 and N26 Engine Timing Chain and Oil Pump Drive

Never seen this site before, but it looks like you could have this work done and then request reimbursement?

Not sure any of these will fix my rough idle issues....
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      12-23-2018, 12:01 AM   #9
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I should also probably mention that my car has over 164,500 miles on it. Planning to take it to 225Kif I can. Added the mods in the last year at about 125K.

Gonna try to clean the MAF 1st thing tomorrow - if that's all it is I am going to be embarassed...
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      12-23-2018, 08:27 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcking View Post
OK, this is interesting...

I see three items listed here, but none of them are fuel pump related.

ELW Coolant Thermostat
BMW N20 Leak Diagnosis Module (NVLD)
BMW N20 and N26 Engine Timing Chain and Oil Pump Drive

Never seen this site before, but it looks like you could have this work done and then request reimbursement?

Not sure any of these will fix my rough idle issues....
Exactly. If you had work done already you could get reimbursed. I read somewhere that fuel pumps were under an extended warranty for some models/years.
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      12-24-2018, 07:42 AM   #11
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OK, so as promised, I got under the good yesterday... long story short, its all better...

So, if I told you that worn engine mounts were the issue what would you say? :-)

OK, so I grabbed the wife's car (Nissan Rogue - I so _HATE_ this car, esp. after driving the BMW) and ran over to Autozone and grabbed a can of the CRC brand MAF cleaner. Shot back home and started taking apart the air intake so I could get to the MAF.

As I started loosening the MAF, I noted that the whole pipe it was mounted to seemed to be quite loose. Feeling around underneath, I could feel that the intake tube has separated at the silicon hose joint. So I removed the entire intake housing and sure enough it the two pipes were no longer connected. Upon close inspection, I noticed that one of the clamps that holds it in place had failed.

At 6'5" and 265 lbs I do have a tendency to overtighten things (they usually don't feel tight until I strip them) which is why I use a torque wrench as often as I can. Of course an air intake clamp is not one of those places, so I suspect the clamp was VERY tight.

After I cleaned the MAF and reassembled the air cleaner housing, I started the car. It stumbled just for a moment and then proceeded to settle to idle at about 700 RPM (as usual). After a few minutes for warm-up I had my son get in the car and rev the engine while I looked around under the hood. To my surprise, the engine exhibited a TON of back and forth movement or more like a few degrees of rotation

This also explains why my upgraded exhaust required an adjustment after it started rattling recently. The engine must really twist under full power acceleration, esp since the mounts have >165K miles on them. This twist put stress on the clamp holding to intake hoses together and eventually fatigued and broke the clamp. One end of the pipe is attached to the engine and the other to the intake housing, which is bolted to the body. Same thing with the exhaust - one end connected to the turbo outlet and the other hangs off the body. Twist the motor back and forth over and over and things will come apart eventually...

So, while I will be adding a new air filter and swapping the plugs, I do not need to replace either fuel pump at this time. I'll also be looking into getting some poly engine mounts to replace the tired OE units with something a bit more robust.

Thanks to all those that replied / offered input. Very glad to be back on the road.
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      12-25-2018, 07:40 AM   #12
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Found a set of poly mounts for the RWD 6 cylinder cars, but nothing for the N20 xDrive cars yet.

https://www.akgmotorsport.com/produc...d-f30-and-f80/

And it looks like the process of swapping them is a bit tricky.

I'll keep looking and also get an estimate from an Indy on what it would cost for them to do the swap.
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