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      05-05-2021, 09:50 PM   #1
Seraph21
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Misfire and now wont start

I was driving back home from ye ole Taco Bell and everything was running just fine. I pulled into my driveway and while waiting for the garage door to open the car started to run really rough at idle out of nowhere. No codes and the RPMs were steady. I gave it a little bit of gas and it revved just fine, sounded fine but once it went back to idle it ran like garbage. Pulled into the garage and turned it off. When I turned it back on I got drivetrain malfunction warnings and the Christmas light treatment from the dash. It also would not start again. I pulled the codes with BM3 and got 113026, 119404 and 1F0514. I've done some research and it looks like it can be a few things, worst being DME. Is there a way to troubleshoot through these codes and find out the issue? Any guidance will be appreciated and I am pretty handy and have tools so hopefully I can do what needs to be done without towing it to a dealership. This is really depressing cause it has run so very well up to today.
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      05-05-2021, 11:00 PM   #2
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From what I found, it is either the IVM (does the F30 have one?) , or it is the DME... Sometime a bad coil can damage the DME.
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      05-06-2021, 08:57 AM   #3
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fuel pressure rail sensor is where you are going to want to start you troubleshooting. That is code 119404. If its stuck/shot/shorted it will give you the issues you are describing. it would also cause ancillary voltage codes like you are getting. How many miles on your car? Are you the original owner? Any previous issues? Are you tuned?
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Last edited by njdangelo; 05-06-2021 at 09:10 AM..
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      05-07-2021, 10:09 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frchdragon View Post
From what I found, it is either the IVM (does the F30 have one?) , or it is the DME... Sometime a bad coil can damage the DME.
I do have an IVM on my F30, its on the right side of the engine bay on the fender wall. I pulled it off and checked the connections for corrosion or breakage but I didnt see anything noteworthy. Is there a way to troubleshoot this issue so I can for sure find the problem? I replaced the plugs and coils with FCPEuro stuff around 3000 miles ago. Is there a way to check and see if the coils are the issue?

Last edited by Seraph21; 05-07-2021 at 10:13 AM.. Reason: left stuff out like a moron
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      05-07-2021, 10:11 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njdangelo View Post
fuel pressure rail sensor is where you are going to want to start you troubleshooting. That is code 119404. If its stuck/shot/shorted it will give you the issues you are describing. it would also cause ancillary voltage codes like you are getting. How many miles on your car? Are you the original owner? Any previous issues? Are you tuned?
Am I just checking for continuity on the sensor or is there a voltage reading I should be checking? Ive got 72k on it, second owner, no previous issues ran fantastic, I am FBO with a BM3 stage 2 tune.
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      05-07-2021, 11:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraph21 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by njdangelo View Post
fuel pressure rail sensor is where you are going to want to start you troubleshooting. That is code 119404. If its stuck/shot/shorted it will give you the issues you are describing. it would also cause ancillary voltage codes like you are getting. How many miles on your car? Are you the original owner? Any previous issues? Are you tuned?
Am I just checking for continuity on the sensor or is there a voltage reading I should be checking? Ive got 72k on it, second owner, no previous issues ran fantastic, I am FBO with a BM3 stage 2 tune.
You should be getting 5 volts on the signal and reference cable. On that wire harness in particular I believe the blue cable is the signal cable and the yellow is the reference. What you're going to want to test is if that 5v changes when you plug the sensor back in. If it does than you have a short.
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      05-08-2021, 08:44 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njdangelo View Post
You should be getting 5 volts on the signal and reference cable. On that wire harness in particular I believe the blue cable is the signal cable and the yellow is the reference. What you're going to want to test is if that 5v changes when you plug the sensor back in. If it does than you have a short.
Ok, lets say that the sensor is good, what would the next couple of steps presumably be if the fuel rail sensor is good? That way I can do them back to back. Thanks for the info btw.
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      05-08-2021, 02:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraph21 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by njdangelo View Post
You should be getting 5 volts on the signal and reference cable. On that wire harness in particular I believe the blue cable is the signal cable and the yellow is the reference. What you're going to want to test is if that 5v changes when you plug the sensor back in. If it does than you have a short.
Ok, lets say that the sensor is good, what would the next couple of steps presumably be if the fuel rail sensor is good? That way I can do them back to back. Thanks for the info btw.
Well there are few things that would cause a perfectly running car to not start at all. It's going to be air, fuel, or spark related. Seeing as there is a code relating to fuel I would continue in that direction. Maybe the rail isn't getting fuel. Maybe the pump isn't pumping. I would work with the sensor first and go from there. No point in worrying about next steps if the first one fixes it.
Just making sure when you clear the codes all three pop right back on?
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      05-08-2021, 03:00 PM   #9
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Yeah, I cleared them multiple times but the 1F0514 code seems to be permeant. I've done a little bit of digging and it seems like it might be the IVF or DME but if there are other things I can check before those two expensive things I'm all in.
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      05-08-2021, 05:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraph21 View Post
Yeah, I cleared them multiple times but the 1F0514 code seems to be permeant. I've done a little bit of digging and it seems like it might be the IVF or DME but if there are other things I can check before those two expensive things I'm all in.
Gotcha. Well keep us posted on what you find
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      05-13-2021, 04:18 PM   #11
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Gotcha. Well keep us posted on what you find
Im going to be checking the rail pressure sensor later today. I wanted to update with me swapping my IVM onto a buddies car and it started up so that doesn't look like it was the issue. I also checked all the fuses except for the ones behind the passenger front right leg panel cause I cant get the panel off. I found a blown 162 fuse for what looks like the cigarette lighter but other than that, no other fuses in the fuse boxes seemed bad.
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      05-13-2021, 06:17 PM   #12
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Just checked the fuel rail sensor on the back side of the fuel rail. This was done via back probing with T-pins and a fully charged battery and ignition on.

With sensor unplugged:
Blue Wire: 5.020VDC
Middle Black/Blue Wire: 0.004VDC
Red/Yellow Wire: 5.014VDC

With sensor plugged in:
Blue Wire: 5.019VDC
Middle Black/Blue Wire: 0.005VDC
Red/Yellow Wire: 0.674VDC

With ignition off and unplugged from sensor:
2.494 k/ohms between Blue and Red/Yellow wires

Was there anything else I needed to check? How does that all look and did I do it correctly?
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      05-13-2021, 07:31 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraph21 View Post
Just checked the fuel rail sensor on the back side of the fuel rail. This was done via back probing with T-pins and a fully charged battery and ignition on.

With sensor unplugged:
Blue Wire: 5.020VDC
Middle Black/Blue Wire: 0.004VDC
Red/Yellow Wire: 5.014VDC

With sensor plugged in:
Blue Wire: 5.019VDC
Middle Black/Blue Wire: 0.005VDC
Red/Yellow Wire: 0.674VDC

With ignition off and unplugged from sensor:
2.494 k/ohms between Blue and Red/Yellow wires

Was there anything else I needed to check? How does that all look and did I do it correctly?
Looks like there may be a short on the sensor. You mentioned having a buddy with the same car, maybe swap his sensor on yours and see if the car starts?
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      05-14-2021, 04:42 PM   #14
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Threw it onto my buddies car and it started right up and no codes thrown. What else could it possibly be do you think?
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      05-14-2021, 07:18 PM   #15
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If the engine is turning over just not starting you have to find out what it isn't getting; air, fuel, or spark. Make sure the battery and alternator are working as intended as well
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      05-14-2021, 10:35 PM   #16
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I've been doing everything with a battery charger hooked up to it so it is for sure charged up.
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      05-15-2021, 02:59 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njdangelo View Post
If the engine is turning over just not starting you have to find out what it isn't getting; air, fuel, or spark. Make sure the battery and alternator are working as intended as well
I'll try to start it with starting fluid and see if it runs. If so I am assuming it's going to be fuel related.
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