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      02-18-2021, 09:47 PM   #1
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Beginner mod tips

Just purchased an F30 335i xDrive auto with 50k miles. I'd love to get started with some mods but I'm concerned about the mileage. Is there anything I should do to ensure the car can handle the mods before I start applying them? I'm looking to do a chip (Dinan stage 2 or jb4) and an intake. Exhaust down the line ideally. Curious to hear everyone's thoughts.
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      02-18-2021, 10:16 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benh13 View Post
Just purchased an F30 335i xDrive auto with 50k miles. I'd love to get started with some mods but I'm concerned about the mileage. Is there anything I should do to ensure the car can handle the mods before I start applying them? I'm looking to do a chip (Dinan stage 2 or jb4) and an intake. Exhaust down the line ideally. Curious to hear everyone's thoughts.
Down pipe / charge pipe, could do an intercooler

Change all fluids, primarily engine oil, trans, differentials, brakes.
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      02-18-2021, 11:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benh13 View Post
Just purchased an F30 335i xDrive auto with 50k miles. I'd love to get started with some mods but I'm concerned about the mileage. Is there anything I should do to ensure the car can handle the mods before I start applying them? I'm looking to do a chip (Dinan stage 2 or jb4) and an intake. Exhaust down the line ideally. Curious to hear everyone's thoughts.
This is an outdated approach. I recommend you spend a couple of hours doing research. The N55 engine technical forum is the place for this, not the general forums. Since you're new ill help you.

1. Do plugs, OEM bosch, dont need NGKs or smaller gap. Read my posts on DIY stuff for plugs here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1709198

2. The normal routine mantainance - oil change, etc. Trans fluid is 75k miles unless you want to do it early (per new ZF guidelines). You dont really NEED anything else unless the car was abused. A good service history is key. Brake fluid if its been more than 2 years.

3. Charge pipe and IC. If you are going to go VRSF. spend $40 more and get the next step up from the 5''. Do not go any further with tunes or other upgrades until you have done this.

4. Choose your tune - basically MHD or BM3 is the way to go. Spend some time researching, then choose. Can't go wrong with either. I run MHD, but i dont want to turn this into a tune debate thread, so BM3 is fine also. JB4 and other piggybacks are completely outdated and unnecessary unless you are in warranty, want them for something like meth control or user controlled boost, etc.

Flash stage 2 MHD or stage 1 BM3 once you have IC+CP installed. Enjoy this for a while. Then...

5. Downpipe - do research and pick catted or catless, and a brand, depending on your budget, emissions needs, etc.

6. Flash stage 2+ MHD or stage 2 BM3 after IC+CP+DP

7. XHP flash for the trans. I recommend straight to stage 3.

Car will be a beast at this point, the rest are the icing on the cake.

8. Turbo inlet - high recommend MST. Read my post here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=173

9. Turbosmart DV if your DV is showing signs of bleeding boost.

You do not need an intake and you do not need an exhaust. These are not power mods. They are only for noise. You can read my thread on intakes here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1765289

After you get the mod itch again, get a front strut bar. Recommend an adjustable one to be able to preload.

At this point if you REALLY want to go further, you are into HPFP upgrade and/or upgraded turbo. So consider how long you will keep the car.

Oh, and at each step of the way, datalog extensively before and after each mod. Highly recommend reading my thread on datalogging here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1732327

This info should save you easily 5-10 hours of research.
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      02-19-2021, 06:49 AM   #4
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Read up a lot and make sure you have a budget for the mods...and the expensive consequences of the mods.
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      02-19-2021, 09:42 AM   #5
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thejeremyman9 gave you a great to-do list, nothing more to say there. But to address your concern about the mileage: there are a lot of folks on here with lots of mods with lots more miles than you. I'd consider 50k low mileage for any 335i. If you take care of the car and stay on top of routine maintenance, chances are you will be ok.
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      02-19-2021, 11:16 AM   #6
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Technically not a mod, but DEFINITELY get Bimmercode and code your car! I coded in automatic folding of the mirrors when I lock and unlock the car, which is a Euro market feature that they disabled for NA. Depending on which options your car has, you can code a whole host of cool things, including the rear fog light.
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      02-19-2021, 12:00 PM   #7
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Good suggestions above, and don't forget the red start stop button...it is the greatest of all mods 😁
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      02-19-2021, 12:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benh13 View Post
Just purchased an F30 335i xDrive auto with 50k miles. I'd love to get started with some mods but I'm concerned about the mileage. Is there anything I should do to ensure the car can handle the mods before I start applying them? I'm looking to do a chip (Dinan stage 2 or jb4) and an intake. Exhaust down the line ideally. Curious to hear everyone's thoughts.
This is an outdated approach. I recommend you spend a couple of hours doing research. The N55 engine technical forum is the place for this, not the general forums. Since you're new ill help you.

1. Do plugs, OEM bosch, dont need NGKs or smaller gap. Read my posts on DIY stuff for plugs here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1709198

2. The normal routine mantainance - oil change, etc. Trans fluid is 75k miles unless you want to do it early (per new ZF guidelines). You dont really NEED anything else unless the car was abused. A good service history is key. Brake fluid if its been more than 2 years.

3. Charge pipe and IC. If you are going to go VRSF. spend $40 more and get the next step up from the 5''. Do not go any further with tunes or other upgrades until you have done this.

4. Choose your tune - basically MHD or BM3 is the way to go. Spend some time researching, then choose. Can't go wrong with either. I run MHD, but i dont want to turn this into a tune debate thread, so BM3 is fine also. JB4 and other piggybacks are completely outdated and unnecessary unless you are in warranty, want them for something like meth control or user controlled boost, etc.

Flash stage 2 MHD or stage 1 BM3 once you have IC+CP installed. Enjoy this for a while. Then...

5. Downpipe - do research and pick catted or catless, and a brand, depending on your budget, emissions needs, etc.

6. Flash stage 2+ MHD or stage 2 BM3 after IC+CP+DP

7. XHP flash for the trans. I recommend straight to stage 3.

Car will be a beast at this point, the rest are the icing on the cake.

8. Turbo inlet - high recommend MST. Read my post here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...;postcount=173

9. Turbosmart DV if your DV is showing signs of bleeding boost.

You do not need an intake and you do not need an exhaust. These are not power mods. They are only for noise. You can read my thread on intakes here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1765289

After you get the mod itch again, get a front strut bar. Recommend an adjustable one to be able to preload.

At this point if you REALLY want to go further, you are into HPFP upgrade and/or upgraded turbo. So consider how long you will keep the car.

Oh, and at each step of the way, datalog extensively before and after each mod. Highly recommend reading my thread on datalogging here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1732327

This info should save you easily 5-10 hours of research.
I have nothing to add, heck I don't even own the same car. I just want to give this man credit for the effort he just put into you, and that is why I love this forum. So many dedicated people here that are happy to share information with us not so knowledgeable people. Cudos to you man!
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      02-19-2021, 12:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjd_F30 View Post
thejeremyman9 gave you a great to-do list, nothing more to say there. But to address your concern about the mileage: there are a lot of folks on here with lots of mods with lots more miles than you. I'd consider 50k low mileage for any 335i. If you take care of the car and stay on top of routine maintenance, chances are you will be ok.
Very little to add to the list provided by thejeremyman9.

Since your vehicle is xDrive, it comes with base suspension. There are so many great coilover options which will transform the suspension behavior. I suggest KW Street Comfort as a starting point.

Suspension is one component the driver interacts the most with.

Please consider replacing the charge pipe as the first step, irrespective of any other planned modification. Evolution Racewerks would be my choice.
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      02-19-2021, 01:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
This is an outdated approach. I recommend you spend a couple of hours doing research. The N55 engine technical forum is the place for this, not the general forums. Since you're new ill help you.

1. Do plugs, OEM bosch, dont need NGKs or smaller gap. Read my posts on DIY stuff for plugs here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1709198

2. The normal routine mantainance - oil change, etc. Trans fluid is 75k miles unless you want to do it early (per new ZF guidelines). You dont really NEED anything else unless the car was abused. A good service history is key. Brake fluid if its been more than 2 years.

3. Charge pipe and IC. If you are going to go VRSF. spend $40 more and get the next step up from the 5''. Do not go any further with tunes or other upgrades until you have done this.

4. Choose your tune - basically MHD or BM3 is the way to go. Spend some time researching, then choose. Can't go wrong with either. I run MHD, but i dont want to turn this into a tune debate thread, so BM3 is fine also. JB4 and other piggybacks are completely outdated and unnecessary unless you are in warranty, want them for something like meth control or user controlled boost, etc.

Flash stage 2 MHD or stage 1 BM3 once you have IC+CP installed. Enjoy this for a while. Then...

5. Downpipe - do research and pick catted or catless, and a brand, depending on your budget, emissions needs, etc.

6. Flash stage 2+ MHD or stage 2 BM3 after IC+CP+DP

7. XHP flash for the trans. I recommend straight to stage 3.

Car will be a beast at this point, the rest are the icing on the cake.

8. Turbo inlet - high recommend MST. Read my post here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=173

9. Turbosmart DV if your DV is showing signs of bleeding boost.

You do not need an intake and you do not need an exhaust. These are not power mods. They are only for noise. You can read my thread on intakes here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1765289

After you get the mod itch again, get a front strut bar. Recommend an adjustable one to be able to preload.

At this point if you REALLY want to go further, you are into HPFP upgrade and/or upgraded turbo. So consider how long you will keep the car.

Oh, and at each step of the way, datalog extensively before and after each mod. Highly recommend reading my thread on datalogging here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1732327

This info should save you easily 5-10 hours of research.
Wow - this is great info. Really appreciate this!! Going to do my homework now and see what fits my budget.

Thanks everyone for all the input.
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      02-19-2021, 01:52 PM   #11
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I'm always a fan of performing mods to improve the driver's performance before upgrading the car.

HPDE's with an instructor and/or autocross with a stock car are a great start.
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      02-19-2021, 04:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benh13 View Post
Just purchased an F30 335i xDrive auto with 50k miles. I'd love to get started with some mods but I'm concerned about the mileage. Is there anything I should do to ensure the car can handle the mods before I start applying them? I'm looking to do a chip (Dinan stage 2 or jb4) and an intake. Exhaust down the line ideally. Curious to hear everyone's thoughts.
This is an outdated approach. I recommend you spend a couple of hours doing research. The N55 engine technical forum is the place for this, not the general forums. Since you're new ill help you.

1. Do plugs, OEM bosch, dont need NGKs or smaller gap. Read my posts on DIY stuff for plugs here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1709198

2. The normal routine mantainance - oil change, etc. Trans fluid is 75k miles unless you want to do it early (per new ZF guidelines). You dont really NEED anything else unless the car was abused. A good service history is key. Brake fluid if its been more than 2 years.

3. Charge pipe and IC. If you are going to go VRSF. spend $40 more and get the next step up from the 5''. Do not go any further with tunes or other upgrades until you have done this.

4. Choose your tune - basically MHD or BM3 is the way to go. Spend some time researching, then choose. Can't go wrong with either. I run MHD, but i dont want to turn this into a tune debate thread, so BM3 is fine also. JB4 and other piggybacks are completely outdated and unnecessary unless you are in warranty, want them for something like meth control or user controlled boost, etc.

Flash stage 2 MHD or stage 1 BM3 once you have IC+CP installed. Enjoy this for a while. Then...

5. Downpipe - do research and pick catted or catless, and a brand, depending on your budget, emissions needs, etc.

6. Flash stage 2+ MHD or stage 2 BM3 after IC+CP+DP

7. XHP flash for the trans. I recommend straight to stage 3.

Car will be a beast at this point, the rest are the icing on the cake.

8. Turbo inlet - high recommend MST. Read my post here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...;postcount=173

9. Turbosmart DV if your DV is showing signs of bleeding boost.

You do not need an intake and you do not need an exhaust. These are not power mods. They are only for noise. You can read my thread on intakes here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1765289

After you get the mod itch again, get a front strut bar. Recommend an adjustable one to be able to preload.

At this point if you REALLY want to go further, you are into HPFP upgrade and/or upgraded turbo. So consider how long you will keep the car.

Oh, and at each step of the way, datalog extensively before and after each mod. Highly recommend reading my thread on datalogging here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1732327

This info should save you easily 5-10 hours of research.
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      02-19-2021, 07:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by im_an_alien View Post
Good suggestions above, and don't forget the red start stop button...it is the greatest of all mods 😁
+1 on the red start button. Adds 5 hp and torque.
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      02-19-2021, 08:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benh13 View Post
Just purchased an F30 335i xDrive auto with 50k miles. I'd love to get started with some mods but I'm concerned about the mileage. Is there anything I should do to ensure the car can handle the mods before I start applying them? I'm looking to do a chip (Dinan stage 2 or jb4) and an intake. Exhaust down the line ideally. Curious to hear everyone's thoughts.
This is an outdated approach. I recommend you spend a couple of hours doing research. The N55 engine technical forum is the place for this, not the general forums. Since you're new ill help you.

1. Do plugs, OEM bosch, dont need NGKs or smaller gap. Read my posts on DIY stuff for plugs here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1709198

2. The normal routine mantainance - oil change, etc. Trans fluid is 75k miles unless you want to do it early (per new ZF guidelines). You dont really NEED anything else unless the car was abused. A good service history is key. Brake fluid if its been more than 2 years.

3. Charge pipe and IC. If you are going to go VRSF. spend $40 more and get the next step up from the 5''. Do not go any further with tunes or other upgrades until you have done this.

4. Choose your tune - basically MHD or BM3 is the way to go. Spend some time researching, then choose. Can't go wrong with either. I run MHD, but i dont want to turn this into a tune debate thread, so BM3 is fine also. JB4 and other piggybacks are completely outdated and unnecessary unless you are in warranty, want them for something like meth control or user controlled boost, etc.

Flash stage 2 MHD or stage 1 BM3 once you have IC+CP installed. Enjoy this for a while. Then...

5. Downpipe - do research and pick catted or catless, and a brand, depending on your budget, emissions needs, etc.

6. Flash stage 2+ MHD or stage 2 BM3 after IC+CP+DP

7. XHP flash for the trans. I recommend straight to stage 3.

Car will be a beast at this point, the rest are the icing on the cake.

8. Turbo inlet - high recommend MST. Read my post here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...;postcount=173

9. Turbosmart DV if your DV is showing signs of bleeding boost.

You do not need an intake and you do not need an exhaust. These are not power mods. They are only for noise. You can read my thread on intakes here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1765289

After you get the mod itch again, get a front strut bar. Recommend an adjustable one to be able to preload.

At this point if you REALLY want to go further, you are into HPFP upgrade and/or upgraded turbo. So consider how long you will keep the car.

Oh, and at each step of the way, datalog extensively before and after each mod. Highly recommend reading my thread on datalogging here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1732327

This info should save you easily 5-10 hours of research.
Broke it down like science.
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      02-20-2021, 12:32 AM   #15
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Happy to help. I gave the mod list with the past of least resistance for performance. Other things to consider if budget allows and you really get the itch but dont want to go beyond "FBO" power levels:

1. Dry drop in filter for stock intake like AFE Pro Dry S (i did this first, actually)

2. LSD

3. TIC (sounds a little cooler with stock intake)

4. Suspension mods, if that's your thing. Personally i like stock Msport suspension. Maybe dinan shockware if you want to keep stock hardware.

5. If you want some sounds, resonator delete for <$100 with stock exhaust sounds good and is cost effective. Here's a quick before and after i did to show the difference. Note, the car sounds way louder (and better ) from behind the car, so this setup is still pretty tame with a catted DP. Would be louder and more raspy with catless.

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      02-20-2021, 01:46 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benh13 View Post
Just purchased an F30 335i xDrive auto with 50k miles. I'd love to get started with some mods but I'm concerned about the mileage. Is there anything I should do to ensure the car can handle the mods before I start applying them? I'm looking to do a chip (Dinan stage 2 or jb4) and an intake. Exhaust down the line ideally. Curious to hear everyone's thoughts.
This is an outdated approach. I recommend you spend a couple of hours doing research. The N55 engine technical forum is the place for this, not the general forums. Since you're new ill help you.

1. Do plugs, OEM bosch, dont need NGKs or smaller gap. Read my posts on DIY stuff for plugs here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1709198

2. The normal routine mantainance - oil change, etc. Trans fluid is 75k miles unless you want to do it early (per new ZF guidelines). You dont really NEED anything else unless the car was abused. A good service history is key. Brake fluid if its been more than 2 years.

3. Charge pipe and IC. If you are going to go VRSF. spend $40 more and get the next step up from the 5''. Do not go any further with tunes or other upgrades until you have done this.

4. Choose your tune - basically MHD or BM3 is the way to go. Spend some time researching, then choose. Can't go wrong with either. I run MHD, but i dont want to turn this into a tune debate thread, so BM3 is fine also. JB4 and other piggybacks are completely outdated and unnecessary unless you are in warranty, want them for something like meth control or user controlled boost, etc.

Flash stage 2 MHD or stage 1 BM3 once you have IC+CP installed. Enjoy this for a while. Then...

5. Downpipe - do research and pick catted or catless, and a brand, depending on your budget, emissions needs, etc.

6. Flash stage 2+ MHD or stage 2 BM3 after IC+CP+DP

7. XHP flash for the trans. I recommend straight to stage 3.

Car will be a beast at this point, the rest are the icing on the cake.

8. Turbo inlet - high recommend MST. Read my post here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...;postcount=173

9. Turbosmart DV if your DV is showing signs of bleeding boost.

You do not need an intake and you do not need an exhaust. These are not power mods. They are only for noise. You can read my thread on intakes here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1765289

After you get the mod itch again, get a front strut bar. Recommend an adjustable one to be able to preload.

At this point if you REALLY want to go further, you are into HPFP upgrade and/or upgraded turbo. So consider how long you will keep the car.

Oh, and at each step of the way, datalog extensively before and after each mod. Highly recommend reading my thread on datalogging here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1732327

This info should save you easily 5-10 hours of research.
Jeremy is being modest here. He may have saved you weeks of research, especially when you consider all of the inaccurate misinformation you would have to sort through to boil it down like this. Excellent writing!

I encourage you to take the time to read the links that Jeremy provided. Excellent in-depth stuff!

Below are some things that I'd add:

MAINTENANCE
At 50k miles you are at the perfect time to jump on maintenance items that will extend the life of your car and prevent some issues that will likely bite you in the next 5k-20k miles.

These would cost a fortune at a dealer or even if done one at a time. This is an investment guaranteed to save money if you plan to keep the car.

I found an excellent independent BMW mechanic on BimmerShops website. He charges me $120/hr when I bring him parts. I booked a day of his time and bought everything at FCP Euro. All BMW fluids unless there were obvious choices to get the same thing cheaper without the BMW label, like the ZF transmission service kit.

Here's my list:
Automatic transmission service- ZF Kit
Fluids for front and rear differentials, transfer case
Coolant service including replacing coolant return hose & Mickey Mouse hose. Upgrading MM from plastic to aluminum.
Kit to replace serpentine belt, tensioner, etc.
At same time add a Kies Seal Guard to prevent engine failure.

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...8;_ss=r?aff=22



CHOOSING BRANDS
As you research you will notice some guys say that a particular part is great and others say that it doesn't fit and caused them nightmares. That's because most of the parts are made in China and the quality control often sucks. Guys who chase cheap parts often complain when they get burned and it's really expensive to troubleshoot and repair.

I'd rather pay a little more for quality parts and enjoy driving my reliable car. Most of the aftermarket parts that have made their way onto my car through extensive research were made in the US, Germany or Europe. I've seen some quality stuff made in Taiwan.

BESIDES ENGINE TUNING
There is often too much focus on more and more engine tuning. For a daily driver, take the time to upgrade brakes, suspension, tires, audio, etc and your car will be more enjoyable to drive.

Just choosing better replacement parts when things wear out, can be a big enhancement. Things like:

Hawk 5.0 brake pads are a big improvement
Upgrading runflats to MPS4S
Upgrading tire size- such as 225/45-18 to 245/40-18
Stock struts/shocks to Koni Special Actives

SOME RECOMMENDATIONS
Drop-in free flow air filter from aFe or K&N will prove a small performance bump

Chargepipe- Evolution Racewerks makes a high quality CP in the USA. A high quality option is FTP.

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...8;_ss=r?aff=22

Tune- I've got BootMod3. A smooth powerful factory like tune with free updates, excellent tech support and an enthusiastic helpful user community. It comes with a free automatic transmission tune that I really like. It has an exhaust sound dashboard to control how you want the burbles and pops to sound.

I tell guys all of the time not to fixate on swapping downpipes etc. Just install a chargepipe, a fresh set of stock plugs and install a BootMod3 Stage1 tune. Then enjoy driving your car.

Intercooler- My favorite intercooler is the Wagner Competition EVO1. Very high quality, no heat soak and especially no turbo lag.

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...8;_ss=r?aff=22

An intercooler upgrade is one of those tweener mods. Technically it's optional if you have a Stage1 tune, but required if you have a slightly higher horsepower Stage2 tune. But there are other factors like if you really push the car at high revs, drive aggressively, track on weekends, live in a hot climate. Those will all be helped by an intercooler upgrade.

Another factor that can push towards an intercooler upgrade is that there is a labor overlap, so installing an intercooler at the same time as the chargepipe can save money.

Hope this helps!
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      02-21-2021, 10:10 PM   #17
Benh13
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resonator delete

Quote:
Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
Happy to help. I gave the mod list with the past of least resistance for performance. Other things to consider if budget allows and you really get the itch but dont want to go beyond "FBO" power levels:

1. Dry drop in filter for stock intake like AFE Pro Dry S (i did this first, actually)

2. LSD

3. TIC (sounds a little cooler with stock intake)

4. Suspension mods, if that's your thing. Personally i like stock Msport suspension. Maybe dinan shockware if you want to keep stock hardware.

5. If you want some sounds, resonator delete for <$100 with stock exhaust sounds good and is cost effective. Here's a quick before and after i did to show the difference. Note, the car sounds way louder (and better ) from behind the car, so this setup is still pretty tame with a catted DP. Would be louder and more raspy with catless.

Sounds great!! Do you have drone at highway speeds?
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      02-21-2021, 10:12 PM   #18
Benh13
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maintenance

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Jeremy is being modest here. He may have saved you weeks of research, especially when you consider all of the inaccurate misinformation you would have to sort through to boil it down like this. Excellent writing!

I encourage you to take the time to read the links that Jeremy provided. Excellent in-depth stuff!

Below are some things that I'd add:

MAINTENANCE
At 50k miles you are at the perfect time to jump on maintenance items that will extend the life of your car and prevent some issues that will likely bite you in the next 5k-20k miles.

These would cost a fortune at a dealer or even if done one at a time. This is an investment guaranteed to save money if you plan to keep the car.

I found an excellent independent BMW mechanic on BimmerShops website. He charges me $120/hr when I bring him parts. I booked a day of his time and bought everything at FCP Euro. All BMW fluids unless there were obvious choices to get the same thing cheaper without the BMW label, like the ZF transmission service kit.

Here's my list:
Automatic transmission service- ZF Kit
Fluids for front and rear differentials, transfer case
Coolant service including replacing coolant return hose & Mickey Mouse hose. Upgrading MM from plastic to aluminum.
Kit to replace serpentine belt, tensioner, etc.
At same time add a Kies Seal Guard to prevent engine failure.

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...7&_ss=r?aff=22



CHOOSING BRANDS
As you research you will notice some guys say that a particular part is great and others say that it doesn't fit and caused them nightmares. That's because most of the parts are made in China and the quality control often sucks. Guys who chase cheap parts often complain when they get burned and it's really expensive to troubleshoot and repair.

I'd rather pay a little more for quality parts and enjoy driving my reliable car. Most of the aftermarket parts that have made their way onto my car through extensive research were made in the US, Germany or Europe. I've seen some quality stuff made in Taiwan.

BESIDES ENGINE TUNING
There is often too much focus on more and more engine tuning. For a daily driver, take the time to upgrade brakes, suspension, tires, audio, etc and your car will be more enjoyable to drive.

Just choosing better replacement parts when things wear out, can be a big enhancement. Things like:

Hawk 5.0 brake pads are a big improvement
Upgrading runflats to MPS4S
Upgrading tire size- such as 225/45-18 to 245/40-18
Stock struts/shocks to Koni Special Actives

SOME RECOMMENDATIONS
Drop-in free flow air filter from aFe or K&N will prove a small performance bump

Chargepipe- Evolution Racewerks makes a high quality CP in the USA. A high quality option is FTP.

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...2&_ss=r?aff=22

Tune- I've got BootMod3. A smooth powerful factory like tune with free updates, excellent tech support and an enthusiastic helpful user community. It comes with a free automatic transmission tune that I really like. It has an exhaust sound dashboard to control how you want the burbles and pops to sound.

I tell guys all of the time not to fixate on swapping downpipes etc. Just install a chargepipe, a fresh set of stock plugs and install a BootMod3 Stage1 tune. Then enjoy driving your car.

Intercooler- My favorite intercooler is the Wagner Competition EVO1. Very high quality, no heat soak and especially no turbo lag.

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...3&_ss=r?aff=22

An intercooler upgrade is one of those tweener mods. Technically it's optional if you have a Stage1 tune, but required if you have a slightly higher horsepower Stage2 tune. But there are other factors like if you really push the car at high revs, drive aggressively, track on weekends, live in a hot climate. Those will all be helped by an intercooler upgrade.

Another factor that can push towards an intercooler upgrade is that there is a labor overlap, so installing an intercooler at the same time as the chargepipe can save money.

Hope this helps!

Extremely helpful! Thank you
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johnung2156.50
      02-22-2021, 12:38 AM   #19
thejeremyman9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benh13 View Post
Sounds great!! Do you have drone at highway speeds?
No drone since my DP is still catted (fabspeed), and stock axleback (non MPE). Barely audbile in the car at highway speeds with windows up. If you have any music on, can't hear it at all.
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