[lijiahua790]

Hey, guys, I just got my N20 back with a new motor. After all, I am glad!
Lesson learnt, which is not to use piggyback tunes.
Anyway, here is my concern, my BMW master technician at EMW, who fixed my blew engine in as less as 1 week, recommended me to use 10W40 instead of factory 5w30, and add Archoil friction modifier.
Any suggestion from you guys?

[RoundelM3]

Best to stick with factory recommendations on oil. Failure to do so may complicate future warranty claims relating to the engine and its components. If you go racing and spend long periods running the car hard, then all bets are off anyway. Things break when pushed hard enough, and it's doubtful that the wrong viscosity of oil or any additives could cause or prevent internal component wear. Lack of sufficient lubrication would definitely be a big factor, though.

Interesting to note that the M engines have a different oil viscosity recommendation (something like 10W60), but those are entirely different animals that were meant to be run hard from the get-go.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by lijiahua790

Hey, guys, I just got my N20 back with a new motor. After all, I am glad!
Lesson learnt, which is not to use piggyback tunes.
Anyway, here is my concern, my BMW master technician at EMW, who fixed my blew engine in as less as 1 week, recommended me to use 10W40 instead of factory 5w30, and add Archoil friction modifier.
Any suggestion from you guys?

Originally Posted by roundel335

Best to stick with factory recommendations on oil. Failure to do so may complicate future warranty claims relating to the engine and its components. If you go racing and spend long periods running the car hard, then all bets are off anyway. Things break when pushed hard enough, and it's doubtful that the wrong viscosity of oil or any additives could cause or prevent internal component wear. Lack of sufficient lubrication would definitely be a big factor, though.

Interesting to note that the M engines have a different oil viscosity recommendation (something like 10W60), but those are entirely different animals that were meant to be run hard from the get-go.

This. Oil starvation will definitely cause your engine to fail.

BMW provides a range of acceptable oil viscosity/weights. Use something that is approved within that range.

I have been using the Mobil1 0w-40. I believe it's no longer BMW LL-1 certified and I'll probably switch to something that is still certified once my inventory at home is depleted.

[lijiahua790]

I have just ordered 5W40, guess will be the best choice for now, higher viscosity and recommended in the service manual! I chose ROYAL purple, which has the best viscosity index in the class. Thanks for the reply, appreciated

Originally Posted by roundel335

Best to stick with factory recommendations on oil. Failure to do so may complicate future warranty claims relating to the engine and its components. If you go racing and spend long periods running the car hard, then all bets are off anyway. Things break when pushed hard enough, and it's doubtful that the wrong viscosity of oil or any additives could cause or prevent internal component wear. Lack of sufficient lubrication would definitely be a big factor, though.

Interesting to note that the M engines have a different oil viscosity recommendation (something like 10W60), but those are entirely different animals that were meant to be run hard from the get-go.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by lijiahua790

I have just ordered 5W40, guess will be the best choice for now, higher viscosity and recommended in the service manual! I chose ROYAL purple, which has the best viscosity index in the class. Thanks for the reply, appreciated

Personally, I think any BMW LL-01 oil would suffice.

The Castrol EDGE 5w-40 and M1 0w-40 are ~$27/5 quarts at Walmart.

I also change my oil on a 5,000 mile interval if it has been used at the track. I'll change at the 7,500 mile interval if it has not seen track use.

* I know M1 0w-40 is no longer BMW LL-01 certified.

[nicknaz]

No issues here using factory fill 5w30 in my s55

I wouldn't mess with non LL01 oil, personally

Either the oem 5w30 or 0w40 for me.

10w60 was for the previous non turbo motors

Btw when I was in non bmw world, shell rosella t 10w40 or synthetic 5w40 was really interesting (but I wouldn't use those for my bmw)

[eluded]

glad to hear you have your car back!

[cncmastr]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Personally, I think any BMW LL-01 oil would suffice.

The Castrol EDGE 5w-40 and M1 0w-40 are ~$27/5 quarts at Walmart.

I also change my oil on a 5,000 mile interval if it has been used at the track. I'll change at the 7,500 mile interval if it has not seen track use.

* I know M1 0w-40 is no longer BMW LL-01 certified.

Do you get oil analysis performed on your oil that dictates 5000 mile limits? It's your car so do what you want. I ask because I've been doing Blackstone analysis for 4 years now on 4 different bmws and I'm finding the oil lasts close to 10k before it needs to changed. There are still plenty of additives at that change. For me I'm doing 8-9k oil changes.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by cncmastr

Do you get oil analysis performed on your oil that dictates 5000 mile limits? It's your car so do what you want. I ask because I've been doing Blackstone analysis for 4 years now on 4 different bmws and I'm finding the oil lasts close to 10k before it needs to changed. There are still plenty of additives at that change. For me I'm doing 8-9k oil changes.

No, I have not. I have just done them at 5k until recently because it was the mid-way point between the BMW maintenance plan service intervals.

It sounds like you have. Does the 10k limit include track usage?

[cncmastr]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

No, I have not. I have just done them at 5k until recently because it was the mid-way point between the BMW maintenance plan service intervals.

It sounds like you have. Does the 10k limit include track usage?

Track usage no, I change it sooner for the S54 and M42 motors if I tracked the car, usually after the season.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by cncmastr

Track usage no, I change it sooner for the S54 and M42 motors if I tracked the car, usually after the season.

I've had my car for 1 year and 11 months and have put almost 58,000 miles on it.

This usually causes me to change it pretty frequently (date-wise) relative to most.

[lijiahua790]

Originally Posted by eluded

glad to hear you have your car back!

Hahaha thanks bro

[XKxRome0ox]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

* I know M1 0w-40 is no longer BMW LL-01 certified.

i was going to say .. but you already qualified your statement


the container on the left includes BMW
the one on the right does not
i guess Mobile-1 changed the formula or something so it is no longer BMW LL-01 certified

[XKxRome0ox]

Originally Posted by lijiahua790

Hey, guys, I just got my N20 back with a new motor. After all, I am glad!
Lesson learnt, which is not to use piggyback tunes.
Anyway, here is my concern, my BMW master technician at EMW, who fixed my blew engine in as less as 1 week, recommended me to use 10W40 instead of factory 5w30, and add Archoil friction modifier.
Any suggestion from you guys?

so what went wrong in the old engine?

[WHL102]

Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox

i was going to say .. but you already qualified your statement


the container on the left includes BMW
the one on the right does not
i guess Mobile-1 changed the formula or something so it is no longer BMW LL-01 certified

Going a bit off topic.

How quickly does it take for a mfg. to certify a new formula?

I guess the question is did it fail certification or is just not certified YET? Sorry if this is a stupid question, not really sure how it all works.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox

i was going to say .. but you already qualified your statement


the container on the left includes BMW
the one on the right does not
i guess Mobile-1 changed the formula or something so it is no longer BMW LL-01 certified

Yes, that's basically what we saw at the local Walmart.

[//M]

SMH. There's so much to said here but I don't have time.

1. With the OP there's zero problem running 10w-40, actually for spirited driving it's better. Only downside would be if you live in a cold climate (slightly too thick at startup) and ever so slightly worse fuel economy. With high oil temps it will protect better... And yes there will be a protection difference at operating oil temps.

2. LL-01 is not some high standard it's primary focus is fuel efficiency and longer change intervals. There are far better formulas. For one it doesn't have enough zinc for a stressed turbo (tuned). For high performance applications don't feel tied to it.

3. Royal Purple has some of the junkiest additives in that class. Everyone who knows there stuff steers clear of it.

4. If your going to track grab motul xcess 8100.... Don't be cheap. There several other oils... One by amsoil but it escapes me.

[//M]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Yes, that's basically what we saw at the local Walmart.

New standard is LL04 it probably hasn't passed yet.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Just a thought. If anyone decides to use a pure race engine oil be sure to change it back to quality street car oil. The race oil does not have suitable additives for long term street use.

[Dog Face Pony Soldier]

Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory

Just a thought. If anyone decides to use a pure race engine oil be sure to change it back to quality street car oil. The race oil does not have suitable additives for long term street use.

I learned this lesson back when I tracked my old '94 Honda Civic. Adhering to anything close to heavy use OEM service schedules while running race transmission oil in that car resulted in a blown trans.

[lijiahua790]

Originally Posted by tifosielia

SMH. There's so much to said here but I don't have time.

1. With the OP there's zero problem running 10w-40, actually for spirited driving it's better. Only downside would be if you live in a cold climate (slightly too thick at startup) and ever so slightly worse fuel economy. With high oil temps it will protect better... And yes there will be a protection difference at operating oil temps.

2. LL-01 is not some high standard it's primary focus is fuel efficiency and longer change intervals. There are far better formulas. For one it doesn't have enough zinc for a stressed turbo (tuned). For high performance applications don't feel tied to it.

3. Royal Purple has some of the junkiest additives in that class. Everyone who knows there stuff steers clear of it.

4. If your going to track grab motul xcess 8100.... Don't be cheap. There several other oils... One by amsoil but it escapes me.

Hahaha I just got royal purple 5W40, actually thinking of 10w40 for the next oil change, but I'm concerning the heavy load on the oil pump and potentially cause it to fail

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by lijiahua790

Hahaha I just got royal purple 5W40, actually thinking of 10w40 for the next oil change, but I'm concerning the heavy load on the oil pump and potentially cause it to fail

The higher the viscosity the better the protection.

There are plenty of people running gear oil to get maximum lubrication. Something like an 80w-250 will ensure your engine will get to 1,000,000 miles.

If you're running an N20 with a tune, downpipe, etc. you should consider this.