07-07-2022, 11:53 AM | #24 |
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I have a F36 with the B47 190hp diesel... I'm guessing the maintenance is very similar.
But here in Europe the recommended oil change interval is 30,000Kms (~19,000 miles), I think that's ridiculous... I'm doing it more often, every 15,000Kms (~9,300 miles) or one year. My car has EGR so I will do an intake inspection/cleaning very soon. My car has 115,000 miles. I think that's a good thing to do every 100,000 miles (more or less) on diesel EGR cars. I had a N47 engine car before this one, my mechanic told me (showed me examples) that this engine has plastic flaps on the intake that fail. He told me that this failure usually happens at around 125,000 miles, but it is very dependent on the driving profile, is related to carbon buildup. Anyone knows if the B47 maintenance has any gotchas to watch out for? |
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07-07-2022, 09:24 PM | #25 |
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Having an extensive background in diesel engines. I have seen a fair number of diesel engines have downstream failures because of bad air filters. Air filters are really cheap PM items. I change them every 6 months on all my diesel engines.
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07-08-2022, 02:12 PM | #26 | |
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The later N47 in F chassis had the flaps as part of the intake manifold gasket set. It's super easy to change and don't fail like the old ones. Basically you change the gasket, it comes with new flaps. The B47 has them part of the intake manifold which makes it a big pain.
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10-28-2022, 06:59 AM | #28 |
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Hello, I am new to the website and have a 2014 328xi F31. Thank you capt_slow for the comprehensive maintenance schedule! May I please for an estimate (range) for the cost of the 60,000 service? I live in Southeast Pennsylvania and plan to go to an independent mechanic. If the mechanic allows, does anyone recommend buying parts online in advance? Thank you!
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10-28-2022, 10:00 AM | #29 |
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W Elliot, is your car the gasoline 328xi? Then I would be cautious about using the information here because this thread is for the diesel engine.
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10-28-2022, 10:07 AM | #30 |
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And to add to this, a bit.
Around 7-8 years of age, especially in hotter climates, expect to have to change the coolant output flange/pipe that is mounted under the intake manifold. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4565 #12 here Mine cracked at 143,000 miles, on a roadtrip, and spewed about half gallon of coolant per 20 minutes. Luckily a nearby BMW dealer actually had one in stock and I replaced it myself in a parking lot quickly. It requires pulling the manifold out of the way a bit. Ironically, I had one of those tubes at home, waiting to be replaced. Of course, I let it wait. My sister's 2014 328d had the same thing happen. I'd expect the 2014s to need this more and more. Additionally, my sisters 2014 328d at around 130k had the harmonic balancer rubber give out and come off track. This is uncommon, but I see how it would happen with age. So for cars with 7-8 years of age, I'd add those plastic and rubber parts on the list. They're not hard (*YMMV) to change, but will leave you stranded if they go out.
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10-28-2022, 10:29 AM | #31 | |
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My F31 is 6yrs/60K now and due for the big preventative service. So far I've managed to get the valve cover+gaskets, OFHG gaskets, coolant, and steering rack changed out under extended warranty. Next up are the drivetrain fluids. Parts to change out the 2x diff fluids, tranny fluid, TC fluid, and belt+tensioner is about $750. A mix of FCP and dealer. Reputable indy shop labor to do all that is about $450. OEM diff fluid aint cheap, but considering there are no sanctioned alternatives and my car is still under warranty I ran with it.
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10-28-2022, 01:31 PM | #32 | |
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10-28-2022, 01:37 PM | #33 |
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Yeaaaa, that just about ruined my day.
I took a spirited drive with my wife up to Dallas (with some bursts to high speeds, which I'm sure aggravated it), and in the downtown area I got a warning for low coolant. I bought some distilled water and filled about 1/3 of a gallon, and in 10 minutes it warned me again. Now, I knew about this coolant outlet tube/pipe/flange from before, so I immediately jumped to inspecting that. As seen in the pictures, I have a collection of broken tubes/flanges now. Bottom is my sister's 2014 sedan, top is mine from the day it happened. It will crack on the side facing the firewall, probably every time, right there. The other picture is during my 57 minute parking lot manifold removal and flange replacement job. I had some tools with me, so I was able to get it done fast. Then I continued on my way. Very lucky that the downtown dealer had one in stock. The parts guy couldn't have said sweeter words: "It show I have one in stock". $31. It would have taken them over 4 hours to do, so I opted to DIY. It honestly wasn't that bad, although a bit annoying. But we move on. I kicked myself for not installing the new one I had at home sooner, preemptively.
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10-28-2022, 01:40 PM | #34 |
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But, things could have been worse...
Here is my sister's car's harmonic balancer after she texted me that the idrive says charging malfunction and having heard a "thunk" upon starting. For what it's worth, I've already changed my harmonic balancer with a Corteco brand one, 1+ years ago.
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10-28-2022, 02:45 PM | #35 | |||
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FYI. Working on a new Rev of the schedule, found some things that were slightly off.
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10-28-2022, 05:59 PM | #36 | |
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These are really really easy to bleed/burp without vacuum filler. Here's what I did 1. Engine off, preferably cold: unscrew the bleeder screw (right by the cap) and fill the coolant 50/50 mix (I had bought a whole gallon at the dealer). 2. Fill until the bleeder screw spits out mostly coolant and not air. 3. Close bleeder screw slightly, and start engine, it will circulate more coolant 4. Add coolant as it squirts out from the bleeder screw 5. At one point, no more bubbles will come out and have a steady stream of coolant 6. I revved engine to 2000 rpm to get more bubbles, if any, and then closed everything. (you can use this method to get rid of some coolant if you're overfilled. I didn't have to) 7. Close all the caps and screws and rinse off with some of the distilled water that I had left. *check fill level 200 miles later.
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10-28-2022, 06:03 PM | #37 | |
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10-28-2022, 11:08 PM | #38 |
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Rev F is here
Finally got around to making Rev F based on stuff from the community (read: posts about catastrophic failures). Noteworthy changes:
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10-28-2022, 11:42 PM | #39 | |
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Car is still under CPO warranty and I'm pretty sure the part is covered, but what are the chances the crack qualifies as a failure?
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10-29-2022, 07:58 PM | #40 |
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Failure will be when/if it splits apart, that crack on the outside is insignificant.
I was mostly looking at the main thick rubber area. |
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11-03-2022, 11:12 AM | #41 | |
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Disconnect negative battery lead. Remove acoustic cover Remove rear acoustic cover / injectors. Remove sound insulation bulkhead upper part, centre. Remove intake silencer housing. Release electronics box and set aside. Remove pressure pipe at throttle body. |
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11-03-2022, 11:44 AM | #42 | |
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I only removed the acoustic cover (main engine plastic cover), disconnected and moved rear acoustic cover aside, and removed the air intake box. Leave electronics box there, you can even leave pressure pipe attached at the throttle body. That's how you save a lot of time. There's no way you'd do all that under an hour otherwise. I only needed to move the intake manifold away by a few inches to be able to access the 3rd bolt on the coolant flange. You can work around it.
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11-04-2022, 04:44 PM | #43 | |
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Interesting, I just did mine at 131k, showed more cracking similar to enabled, however, I dont have that little bolt cover y'all do. Wonder where it went LOL |
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11-08-2022, 05:19 PM | #44 |
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To Enabled 's point of replacing the coolant pipe under the Intake Manifold. I had the dealership replace the pipe while they were doing the EGR Cooler recall job (had to replace the intake manifold once more). Luckily have a friend who works there, so was able to pay parts cost but zero on the labor. I had planned to get to the pipe when I replace the OFHG in the future, but good to have it done head of time and out of my mind.
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