[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by dreaming.haze

To Enabled 's point of replacing the coolant pipe under the Intake Manifold. I had the dealership replace the pipe while they were doing the EGR Cooler recall job (had to replace the intake manifold once more). Luckily have a friend who works there, so was able to pay parts cost but zero on the labor. I had planned to get to the pipe when I replace the OFHG in the future, but good to have it done head of time and out of my mind.

PN: 11127810707 / Comes with the seal.

Smart - wish I would have thought of this when I got the EGR recall done... Doh!

Thanks for the part number - 28 bucks on FCPeuro, I am going to buy it and let it sit on the bench until I am in there again (Or it cracks )

[Enabled]

Yes, and I'd say that all early to mid 2014 model years in hotter climates should plan for the coolant flange (and the harmonic balancer) soon.

For me the car has been quite flawless up to this point (145k miles!), so it's not excessive to say that a round of maintenance is worth it.

If doing the coolant pipe/flange, I would say do the water pump and thermostat (with housing) at the same time.

[dreaming.haze]

Agreed on the Water Pump + Thermostat at the same time. I've already done my Thermostat last fall, but still plan to do the Water Pump here at 120k miles. will need to take the freshly installed EGR Cooler off to do the job, but feels worthwhile to get squared away.

[capt_slow]

Originally Posted by dreaming.haze

Agreed on the Water Pump + Thermostat at the same time. I've already done my Thermostat last fall, but still plan to do the Water Pump here at 120k miles. will need to take the freshly installed EGR Cooler off to do the job, but feels worthwhile to get squared away.

If you're going to touch the coolant system at 120K, you might as well replace all the hoses while you're at it.

I see 120K as a great time to replace the flange, thermostat, water pump, coolant hoses, and coolant.

[dreaming.haze]

Based on realoem - looks like 5 hoses that would need to be replaced. BMW is quite proud of them as well, total price would come out to $293 if ordering from bmwpartsdeal.com

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=17_0634

[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by capt_slow

Here's Rev C of the schedule. I took the feedback and made two separate schedules: Preventative and Proactive. For Proactive, I was considering replacing the diff and transfer case fluids every 30k, to closely match Mike Miller's doc. But ultimately decided against it.

Feedback appreciated.

For what its worth I replaced my belt and tensioner at 130k and it looked fine. Don't think the 60k replacement timeline is necessary

[Enabled]

Glow plugs are used so sparingly that I would replace only when they throw a code. And when they get replaced I would use antiseize abundantly. The more those threads get disturbed, the more they'll wear.

[capt_slow]

Originally Posted by n00bkiller944

For what its worth I replaced my belt and tensioner at 130k and it looked fine. Don't think the 60k replacement timeline is necessary

I would agree as well. I replaced mine last week at 62K and both belt and tensioner look great!






Parts was about $150 and I DIY it. Dealer quoted the work at nearly $550!

[ssf556]

Originally Posted by Enabled

Glow plugs are used so sparingly that I would replace only when they throw a code. And when they get replaced I would use antiseize abundantly. The more those threads get disturbed, the more they'll wear.

DO you have the correct part #s for the glow plugs

[capt_slow]

I changed out all the drivetrain fluids at 62K. Then, sent a sample of the old transmission fluid to Blackstone for analysis. This is what they wrote:

It's good you changed this fluid, since the viscosity was a little thin and insolubles had reached the 0.1% limit, both signs it was beginning to break down from heat and use. The fluid change should've helped reduce copper and tin also -- both are elevated in this sample, but we're thinking they're just residual wear-in by-products, rather than signs of poor bronze wear. If functioning normally, we just suggest checking back in about 60,000 miles to look for progress. Universal averages are based on about 67,700 miles and the 3.0 TAN shows mild acidity.

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by ssf556

DO you have the correct part #s for the glow plugs

12230035934

They're Bosch GLP5


But don't replace them until they throw a code. And this will be well over 150k miles.

[ssf556]

Originally Posted by Enabled

12230035934

They're Bosch GLP5


But don't replace them until they throw a code. And this will be well over 150k miles.

OK thanks for the heads up. Are we not concerned with them getting stuck at that many miles? I have been proactive on my Mercedes OM642 diesel and things have worked out ok. I am on my 3rd set at 120K.

[Enabled]

I long suspected that the ones getting stuck are from being replaced without thread paste or something to keep them from seizing.

I wouldn't disturb those threads in the head and wear them out ahead of time, as it would then require a lot of machine shop work.
I guess there's a balance between changing them too often and potentially having them seize on you.

[dreaming.haze]

Originally Posted by capt_slow

If you're going to touch the coolant system at 120K, you might as well replace all the hoses while you're at it.

I see 120K as a great time to replace the flange, thermostat, water pump, coolant hoses, and coolant.

Just did the Water Pump job today at 115k miles. Replaced the water pump + thermostat (again) + thermostat housing gasket. Likely should have replaced the thermostat housing vs. just the gasket, but the plastic housing felt fine and not hardened nor brittle. Also, felt the various hoses before doing the job along with inspecting for any stress cracks starting - nothing noted, so I'll hold off on the hoses till the next time round OR there are jobs where it would make sense from an access perspective to replace them "while I am in there".

If you order an OE Water Pump, there is no need to order Loctite 5970 sealant. The pump already has sealant applied. If you order OEM, then you'd need to have sealant at the ready.

There is a small rubber pipe that comes off the water pump that I would also look towards replacing, but I can't find it within parts diagrams thus far. Once I do, I'll provide the PN.

[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by dreaming.haze

Just did the Water Pump job today at 115k miles. Replaced the water pump + thermostat (again) + thermostat housing gasket. Likely should have replaced the thermostat housing vs. just the gasket, but the plastic housing felt fine and not hardened nor brittle. Also, felt the various hoses before doing the job along with inspecting for any stress cracks starting - nothing noted, so I'll hold off on the hoses till the next time round OR there are jobs where it would make sense from an access perspective to replace them "while I am in there".

If you order an OE Water Pump, there is no need to order Loctite 5970 sealant. The pump already has sealant applied. If you order OEM, then you'd need to have sealant at the ready.

There is a small rubber pipe that comes off the water pump that I would also look towards replacing, but I can't find it within parts diagrams thus far. Once I do, I'll provide the PN.

How was this job - closing in on 140k and think being proactive on WP and thermostat might be smart

[dreaming.haze]

Originally Posted by n00bkiller944

How was this job - closing in on 140k and think being proactive on WP and thermostat might be smart

Job itself was smooth. I had already done the thermostat last fall, so knew the steps up to that point. When I did that job though, I didn't remove the air tube that goes into the turbo. This step: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...drive/H137CESi

I would recommend removing that pipe rather than just moving things out of the way.

Also I hadn't removed the EGR cooler. When removing / installing the EGR cooler, just leave the assembly a bit loose before snugging everything firmly down. Allows for more wiggle in installing the various pipes / fittings / etc. With just having had the EGR cooler replaced 2,000 miles prior, I didn't worry about replacing any seals / bolts.

Also, when installing the thermostat housing / thermostat - it is a lot easier with two people vs. one to compress the thermostat with the housing. If you don't have two people - you just want to have the thermostat housing bolts threaded a thread or two on all three bolts, then slowly snug things down using the housing to compress the thermostat.

[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by dreaming.haze

Job itself was smooth. I had already done the thermostat last fall, so knew the steps up to that point. When I did that job though, I didn't remove the air tube that goes into the turbo. This step: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...drive/H137CESi

I would recommend removing that pipe rather than just moving things out of the way.

Also I hadn't removed the EGR cooler. When removing / installing the EGR cooler, just leave the assembly a bit loose before snugging everything firmly down. Allows for more wiggle in installing the various pipes / fittings / etc. With just having had the EGR cooler replaced 2,000 miles prior, I didn't worry about replacing any seals / bolts.

Also, when installing the thermostat housing / thermostat - it is a lot easier with two people vs. one to compress the thermostat with the housing. If you don't have two people - you just want to have the thermostat housing bolts threaded a thread or two on all three bolts, then slowly snug things down using the housing to compress the thermostat.

Thanks for the tips!

[dreaming.haze]

Following up on some additional preventative maintenance performed. Although I had just gotten into the coolant system previously, I decided to dive back in once more.

To note on anyone replacing the thermostat - ensure the ball valve is pointing downwards. Had to take mine back off to properly clock it after the previous install. Here's this noted in newtis: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...drive/GzioCZ9d

Another job was the OFHG. There are multiple gaskets and seals that need to be replaced with this job. Overall, not too terrible, but you need to remove the Intake Manifold to properly get at things.

Parts:
11428516396 - Gasket between block and Oil Filter Housing
11428580681 - Gasket set (If replacing the full thermostat housing 11428507694 - set not needed)
11428580682 - Gasket set
11428511981 - Gasket set
17228511461 - O-rings for ATF Lines -> Cooler
11437794698 - Engine Dip Stick O-Ring
Optional
11618517159 - Intake manifold seal / flaps (recommendation is to replace if taking manifold off, I replaced)
11127810707 - Coolant Flange / pipe (talked about this in previous posts, very accessible during this job)

During the OFHG, Also replaced the Valve Cover Gasket. This job was more involved, but more so due to just being careful as you go. Be cautious of the injector return lines. The small brown clips should be approached with caution. Was able to get them off with 45" degree long reach pliers and patience.

When taking out the Injectors, you should be able to remove these by hand with a little twist if anything. Replace the crush washers + use some good quality high temp grease on install.

After getting everything put back together I did run through the injector bleed procedure in ISTA+.

Parts:
11128511814 - Valve Cover Gasket
13532247156 - Injector Crush Washers
Optional:
13537823408 - Injector return line (didn't have this on hand, but good to know just in case replacement is needed)

Next up was some cracks noted on the Windshield cowl. Common failure over time and due to parking my car outside for most of its' life - it was time to replace. For this job, just ensure you have a tool to pop the plastic rivets out. By this point, you likely do.

Parts:
51717258177 - Windshield Cowl

And last on my preventative maintenance run was the Transfer Case Bushing. I had already replaced my motor mounts ~4k miles ago, so wanted to round out the fresh bushings.

Job notes: For removal I used soapy water + a couple of pry bars to get leverage and remove the mount. For install, I used a tool from Konmen tools that is based on BMW Tool P/N: 221 040. I wasn't able to use the tool on the F31 chassis for removal due to space issues. Install though it worked perfectly. Just needed to get things started by hand -> get the tool to do the rest of the work.

Parts:
22316786566 - Transfer Case Bushing
07119906978 - Through bolt for transfer case bushing
07119906050 - Nut for above bolt

Optional:
22316788586 - Additional Rubber Buffer(mine was hard, so decided why not replace it)

I've also gone through my full front suspension + steering trying to chase down a clunk noise coming from the drivers side - but that is another thread and still something I am chasing down.

I figure after all this maintenance, It will be good to enjoy the next 60k miles with more basic maintenance + usage needs.

[n00bkiller944]

I just completed a motor and transmission mount swap at 136k. Engine mounts were not leaking, but this is a 200k plus car for me so went ahead and did it. Saw no failures in rubber or mounts once removed, but NVH has decreased in the cabin which was a nice benefit. Throttle response feels better so I imagine the engine is shifting less under load. One thing to note is the transmission mounts were significantly compressed when compared to the new ones, so I am glad I replaced!

[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by dreaming.haze

Another job was the OFHG. There are multiple gaskets and seals that need to be replaced with this job. Overall, not too terrible, but you need to remove the Intake Manifold to properly get at things.

Parts:
11428516396 - Gasket between block and Oil Filter Housing
11428580681 - Gasket set (If replacing the full thermostat housing 11428507694 - set not needed)
11428580682 - Gasket set
11428511981 - Gasket set
17228511461 - O-rings for ATF Lines -> Cooler
11437794698 - Engine Dip Stick O-Ring
Optional
11618517159 - Intake manifold seal / flaps (recommendation is to replace if taking manifold off, I replaced)
11127810707 - Coolant Flange / pipe (talked about this in previous posts, very accessible during this job)

Next up was some cracks noted on the Windshield cowl. Common failure over time and due to parking my car outside for most of its' life - it was time to replace. For this job, just ensure you have a tool to pop the plastic rivets out. By this point, you likely do.

Parts:
51717258177 - Windshield Cowl

Thanks for the insight, love chatting with people that are in the same boat of DIY everything as I am.

Few questions - Did the intake have to be removed to do the OFHG? I cant tell if I am starting a leak from OFH or just spill a lot during oil changes... so probably doing this job soon.


Also - any lessons learned from windshield cowl? On my list as well

[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by dreaming.haze

I've also gone through my full front suspension + steering trying to chase down a clunk noise coming from the drivers side - but that is another thread and still something I am chasing down.

Let me know once you start this thread. I was chasing down the same driver side noise on my 328d. Only 45k on the replaced struts, hats, etc. I ended up replacing them again, but think the noise might have been from my motor mounts I replaced at the same time. Happy to chat through with you!

[dreaming.haze]

n00bkiller944 - For sure. Kinda fun to get into the DIY aspect of these cars. Frustrating at times, but worthwhile in the end with preventative maintenance.

I imagine there are ways to get around removing the intake manifold - but I would say it is recommended to just fully remove things. I had the same thoughts on the spills during oil changes, likely saw a build up on the lower portion of the cooler / housing. Worthwhile to just get into it and replace things.

Here's the thread I've started up on this https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1987309 | haven't replaced the struts, but that would be the last item of a fresh front suspension / steering (post this it would be into axles / steering rack full replacement / etc). For you, I'd confirm if the clunk is there with the engine off.