12-17-2018, 09:46 PM | #46 |
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Thanks!
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12-19-2018, 09:53 AM | #47 |
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Did they replace it? That's pretty sketchy of the dealership.
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12-19-2018, 09:54 AM | #48 |
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What's the best way to replace this? Car cold? I want to lose at little fluid as possible.
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12-19-2018, 11:49 AM | #49 | |
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Quote:
But yes, once the car is hot, the coolant system becomes pressurized. I would do it first thing in the morning after the car has cooled down overnight.
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12-19-2018, 12:07 PM | #50 |
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Don't ever replace coolant system components with the car warm. Could lead to serious injury.
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12-20-2018, 03:03 AM | #51 |
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yeah they did
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12-22-2018, 01:26 PM | #53 |
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I just replaced mine on my 2014 335 with 50k. The old one was not quite brittle yet. I actually wasn't able to get it to break with a decent amount of force. Guess it would have been fine for years to come. Oh well!
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12-22-2018, 03:27 PM | #54 |
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Alternatively, you could've held on to it as a back up in case the new one goes out for some unforeseen reason. But I guess too late now.
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12-22-2018, 06:56 PM | #55 | |
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Quote:
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12-24-2018, 01:47 AM | #56 |
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A cheaper and easier fix than losing a water pump at 41k miles on an XJ. You may guess how I know.
I'll check that pipe on the F10s I plan to view soon. Many thanks. |
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12-24-2018, 06:08 AM | #57 |
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This method is better than the original crappy stock piece of hose that breaks.
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03-12-2019, 08:58 PM | #62 |
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I have a brand new one sitting on my work bench that looks exactly the same. I keep looking at my car (24k) and my wifes car (51k), yanking and pushing on them hard and they arent close to breaking yet.
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03-12-2019, 10:03 PM | #63 |
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crazy, this happened to me about a week ago, snapped in exactly the same spot. picked up a new hose at dealership ($50) and changed it in my work parking lot. I'm currently at 55k miles in a 2013 335i.
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03-16-2019, 10:15 AM | #65 |
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Thanks. Ordered mine just now!
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03-25-2019, 04:38 PM | #66 |
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so, as previously posted, this happened to me a few weeks ago and I replaced the line and topped off/bled the system in my works parking lot. Now about a week after I got my bolt-ons installed, one of those being a GFB DV+ that requires removal of the water pump. when I picked up my car from the shop the headlight switch was in the "12 o'clock" position (off I think), so low beams were not on but heater was on full temp both sides. my question is, is it really needed to have the headlights on low beam in order to bleed the system? I ask because my A/C is no longer blowing cold, and I'm thinking it's air in the system, or could it just need a recharge? and second question, is it really needed to remove the bleed screw near the coolant fill cap to bleed it? last time I did it and coolant was at "Max", it made a mess bubbling up coolant/air during the bleed process. would it be better to open the fill cap itself?
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