[goldbug]

Just wanted to share my journey with my 2016 F30 328i sedan (n26, auto).

Background: I bought this car 5 years ago with 27k miles on it. It has been flawless other than a driver rear wheel speed sensor failure, shifter board failure, NBT EVO HDD failure, and a recently discovered (but totally predicted) valve cover gasket leak. It now has 79k miles on it, and it’s time for some modifications and service to prolong its life. This has been my wife’s DD for a few years and I am finally getting her an upgrade here shortly (will be a CPO, low-mileage G22 430i coupe). This will be my DD here shortly. I also have a garage-queen project car, a 2013 G37S coupe 6MT, I’ll share if anyone is interested…it’s a hair bit far from stock and (probably surprising to most) doesn’t have a single exit exhaust. I’ve been building it out to compete in various events, mainly time attack. It’s still in progress as life priorities take over. I formerly owned a 2nd 2016 328i sedan, but sold it a few years ago as I couldn’t justify owning 3 cars at the time.

Car options: (might be of use for those trying to help me out or for anyone curious)
+Black sapphire metallic
+Sport line
+Sport transmission
+PDC
+Black sports leather seats w/red stitching
+Standard brakes
+LED headlamps and fog lights
+No headlight washers

I’m an IT professional but have worked in a shop (different auto brands) in the past so I do most of my own maintenance, give or take a few things I might not have the tools/software for, and no shame if it’s outside my comfort zone…professionals exist for a reason. Oil changes are done at 5k-6k max OCI, depending on when I can grab the car from my wife to knock it out. I have only used the OEM MANN oil filters, and only used BMW oil, Castrol Edge Euro 5W-40, Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-40, and now I’m currently using Mobil 1 FS Euro 5W-40. I’m in Florida so that grade helps with the heat. Tire rotations are done every oil change. Cabin air filter is changed yearly, using MANN charcoal filters. Brake flushes have been done every 2 years, using ATE TYP 200 fluid. Using an AFE pro dry-s air intake filter and it’s cleaned 2-3 times per year using the AFE solution. I use Bosch Icon wiper blades on all my cars and love them. I have done all of the work on this car other than the ZF transmission service - I had a trusted indy shop do that service for me with since I did not have any diag tools at the time.

Service history:
+Transmission serviced @55k miles
(used ZF kit from FCP Euro)
+Spark plugs replaced @58k miles
(used NGK OE replacements)
+Rotors, pads, sensors and set screws replaced @64k miles
(Zimmerman rotors, Hawk PC pads, Bowa sensors, ECS set screws)
+Battery replaced @75k miles
(OEM battery replacement, original lasted almost 10 years)
+Driver rear wheel speed sensor replaced @79k miles
(Holstein Parts from Amazon, was in a time crunch, so far no issues)
+Shifter assembly board and wiring replaced @79k miles
(Will make a post below with more info)
+NBT EVO HDD replaced with PNY CS900 250GB SSD @79k miles
(Will make a post below with more info)
+Valve cover & gaskets replaced @80k miles
(Uro Parts aluminum cover)
+Accessory drive belt & tensioner replaced @81k miles
(Gates/INA tensioner, Gates belt)

Modifications have been kept to a minimum to keep this car as OEM and reliable as possible while my wife has been driving it. Only things done are mainly visual and listed below. I’ve tried to keep costs down on this as I knew it would be something to re-visit in the future, so non-name brand items were used in some cases, knowing they will be swapped out with nicer parts. Unfortunately, a couple months ago someone pulled out illegally in front of us on a busy road and caused the first small fender bender for our BMW. Only the front bumper and grille were damaged luckily, and other driver was rightfully deemed at fault so insurance covered everything. My wife was not a fan of the LCI front bumper, nor did she like the M-sport bumper (to each their own), but absolutely loved the M3 style bumpers she’d seen a couple of. So instead of going OEM I grabbed an M3 bumper cover kit from Ebay since I didn’t have time to wait for KIES to ship out their M3 bumper kit. Big mistake. I assumed (from looking at pictures) it was a Good Go cover with different grilles vs the Kies kit. Nope. Long story short, it wasn’t so fun to swap, but the deed is done and it ended up looking pretty good. I’m considering running no fog lights though, since the included fog light “brackets” are a huge failure, and on top of that in the accident one of my fog light mounting teeth broke off (one of the bottom 2) and shop did not catch it while it was there. I’ve been weighing options, but they are pointed too far low/down to be of any use now, and I’m worried the one screw holding them to the grille bracket might break eventually (these geniuses designed it so the fog light is to be screwed into to the fog light grille and use a bracket for the bottom prongs secured by 3M). I’ll make another post about the swap below. And for the diehards curious, no there is not a single M sticker on our car and the 328i badge is there. Not trying to make it look like something it isn’t, we just like the look of some of the visual accents from the M series. The current square setup of wheels I plan to replace shortly also, as I’m not a fan of how poorly they balance out. I gave them a try, but there’s a reason I stick to name brands and run Work wheels on my Infiniti…I have a few options already picked out, but will likely go with a square set from APEX due to their reputation, quality, weight, and price. If this was a newer car I wasn’t going to DD I’d put another set of Work wheels on it. The fake alcantara shifter trim cover I grabbed from Amazon has done a great job covering up the OEM bubbling plastic chrome bezel, but I’m going to replace it with a CF version from AutoTecknic eventually.

Current modifications:
>Interior
+Alcantara chrome shifter trim cover from Amazon—>replacing with CF version
+Gloss black auto shift knob
+Red M style start/stop button
>Exterior
+M3 style front bumper
+OEM M Performance blackout grille
+M3 style trunk spoiler—>will be replaced with CF version
+M style mirror caps—>will be replaced with CF version
+Black and white hood, trunk, and steering wheel emblems
+20% ceramic window tint
>Performance
+Uro Parts aluminum valve cover
+Hawk Performance Ceramic brake pads
+ATE TYP200 brake fluid
+Aodhan AFF7 19x8.5 +35 square
+Bridgestone Potenza RE980AS+ 255/35

Plans. Well, I plan to prolong the life of this car since it will be my DD until I decide to replace it, but I love this little car. It has been phenomenal and a blast to drive due to the weight and balance. I’d like to drive the wheels off of it. So here is a breakdown of my light modifications planned. I also have some big services to knock out in the next few weeks. I am familiar with tuning, and plan to use Bootmod3 to go Stage 1 on 93 octane. I use EcuTek in my G37, but BM3 looks great from everything I’ve read. I do not pan to go past Stage 1. My n26 should have the revised timing chain (production date of 10/31/2015) but I do plan to have it looked over. I plan to keep the OEM air intake and I’ve been very happy running AFE dry filters.

Planned parts/modifications:
+Saikou Michi oil catch can (currently being made)
+Bootmod3 Stage 1
+xHP TCU tune
+FTP charge pipe and boost pipe
+FTP v3 turbo air inlet
+Turner upper air intake pipe
+Turbosmart Kompact EM BOV VR23
+VRSF 6.5” stepped intercooler
+Vargas x Corteco engine mounts (I’m used to running solid and poly mounts)
+ECS 70A polyurethane transmission mounts
+Powerflex Street (70A?) poly transmission mounts
+AFE carbon intake air scoop
+Bilstein B14 PSS coilovers, possibly DINAN lowering springs in the interim
+Bimmerworld V3 brake lines—>will replace during next brake flush
+Carbon rear trunk spoiler
+Carbon mirror caps
+Autotecknic carbon shifter console cover bezel/trim
+Autotecknic carbon steering wheel trim
+APEX ARC-8 19x9 +28 square—>waiting for springs or coilovers

Planned Service:
1. Perform rear differential flush and fill
>Will be using Redline 75W-90 GL5 gear fluid, replacing drain plug with OEM, will do in the next week as of last post edit
2. Brake flush and replace original lines
>Have fluid and Bimmerworld V3 lines, will do in the next week as of last post edit
3. Perform coolant flush and fill
>Will use Zerex G48
4. Perform AC system evac and charge
>Will have a BMW dealer or indy shop perform this
5. Replace parking brake clip
>Replacing with AGA metal clip, currently using good old zip ties, will go ahead and order this bc the zip ties are failing slowly
6. Replace fuel injectors
7. Replace engine, transmission, and rear differential mounts


There’s the basic breakdown of what I have planned. Nothing crazy, I just want it to be a little more fun and reliable. Definitely going with BM3 on a Stage 1 93 octane tune after installing everything.For the charge pipe, boost pipe, and turbo inlet I’ll go with FTP. More than enough good word about those items on the N20/N26. Turner silicone upper air intake hose will be used to prolong life. Going with a 6.5” VRSF intercooler. I’m having a custom catch can made by Saikou Michi. I helped develop a set of cans for the G37 with the owner, and it was of the highest quality, so if I ever need any catch cans he is my go-to. Unbelievably nice gentleman and he is extremely knowledgeable. Anyways that is not a promotion nor am I affiliated with him or his business in any way…just giving back to the car community with helping develop and test a new product. For the suspension I plan to eventually install a Bilstein B14 PSS set of coilovers, but might install DINAN lowering springs until the original shocks go. I only plan to lower it 1” at most to close up fender wheel gaps…my mortal enemy…while not having issues as a DD, and will swap to some APEX wheels at that time. Most of the maintenance and service I’ll DIY other than the AC system evac and charge, IIRC that needs ISTA but please advise me if I’m wrong. I’m considering having a walnut shell blast done to the intake valves to be safe, at around 100k miles. I only use Top Tier 93 octane gasoline and have never used additives/cleaners. Open to advice, as this is still my first endeavor owning a BMW and an N26. Pictures to come, I just need to sort through my camera roll and will upload some later. Feel free to ask me any questions, I know I’m forgetting things and will update more as I go.

Edit - yep, forgot to mention the exhaust. Not sure what I’ll end up doing with the exhaust. I’m not trying to make it louder really, but it would be nice to refine it, so possibly a catless downpipe with an EPA approved HFC welded into a custom midpipe. This is a big trick in the VQ and other car communities to avoid blowing HFCs on boosted engines while still retaining a cat that’s close enough/hot enough to work efficiently. If anyone has tried this before on the n20/n26 platform I’m open to suggestions. I see CTS makes a catted downpipe for the n26 also if anyone has any feedback on that or any other catted DP’s.

Cheers to the car community and stay safe out there.

-goldbug-

[goldbug]

Reserved for post

1. Shifter board assembly & NBT EVO SSD install

[goldbug]

Quick shot of the current setup, just after installing the new bumper.

[sqwinny]

Welcome ! Looks like you have a big parts list and fairly intestive maintenance sechedule. Car will do what you ask and more.

Some quick suggestions:

1. Honestly with Florida heat go VRSF 6.5 intercooler. Easier to find used and/or resell to f30 335i folks. Cost difference is minimal.

2. Charge and boost pipe and inlet you go FTP. Keep it simple. Once you take off the PCV vent tube, it’s known to snap and sheer due to aging plastic as well as the PCV vent hose itself. PCV vent hose is $30 on Amazon. The sensor inside that hose is a dummy sensor just an FYI. consider PCV vent tube and turbo inlet at the same time. The ftp v3 inlet just separated the all in one unit for couplers to make easier to install with different intake pipes. Otherwise no difference for FTP v2 vs v3.

3. Turbosmart unit vs the GFB as within 3-4 years the seal on the GFB wears out and you can’t service the o ring sealing gasket. Thus another $180-$200 spent. Turbosmart compact you can order get new gaskets and the install is easier. Turbosmart also holds boost a bit better. Can go full plumb or dual port.

4. You can run a catless downpipe as the n26 variants have a secondary cat in the midpipe. N20/n26 exhaust is less than a 2.5” diameter so there is some free horses to pick up if you buy a 3” catback from a f30 335i/have a custom exhaust made.

5. Engine mounts you go stock and power flex motor mount inserts from the f80 (same motor mounts) if you don’t want NVH and the transmission mounts rogue engineering or revshift as those transmission mounts have a “split screw” within the poly to reduce nvh. Otherwise car becomes a rattling tin can with the ecs tuning/vargas transmission mounts.

6. Turner/ecs tuning these days makes the best oil catch can to locate it under the headlight/near the coolant tank. Otherwise most go with mishimoto instead. Bms has fitment issues.

7. When you change the valve cover gasket you should also replace valve cover as well as it’ll crack around 80-120k miles. PCV is built inside and non serviceable.

Fcp euro has many DIY videos for this car and chassis. Not sure if you are familiar with fcp euro, but they do offer lifetime warranty on parts and wear items. So use it, order a replacement set, ship them back the used parts, get your credit for more parts down the road. Oil, brakes, brake fluid, etc.

Local Florida gas is pretty bad. Thus you run the 91 octane tune but with pump 93 gas.

Lastly enjoy. I’d look into replacing fuel injectors as well as they are a wear item and this car does not have a proper inline fuel filter.

[goldbug]

sqwinny I couldn’t have asked for a better reply! This is why I have so much love for the forums. Thank you for pointing out all of these items, for real. I may have wrenched on cars but that doesn’t mean I know what’s best for this platform, and this is the advice I’m looking for.

I’ll definitely go ahead and grab a 6.5” IC to be safe for the heat here. Thank you for pointing that out about the PCV vent hose as I probably would have that luck. I’ll grab a new hose and valve cover with the rest of those parts. I like to do things right the first time with mechanical parts so I’ll check out the turbosmart options and pick one out- appreciate the feedback on the GFB units longevity.

With regard to the secondary cat, do some owners cut it out and replace it with an HFC? I’ve tried digging around on the forums for a while but never came across solid info. I’ll probably go custom fab for the exhaust, just due to cost of these aftermarket exhausts. Again, if it was a mint newer car I’d consider it but would rather spend on other performance parts for it. Rear muffler section I’ll have to think about.

I don’t mind a little bit of NVH personally, but I’ll definitely check out the transmission options you listed. FWIW I run stiff coilovers and solid end links, upgraded sways, etc on my G37 so I’m used to some bones being rattled, lol.

I didn’t even see the turner/ecs catch can so I’ll grab that or have one custom made. Fitment is key though, so it’s really nice turner sells their catch can hoses separately if wanted.

Coming from working on Japanese cars FCPeuro has been a fantastic resource for DIYs, and I’ve used their how-tos as much as possible. I’ll continue to use them and support their business.The fuel injectors is something I looked at also but couldn’t seem to find too much info for the N26- so thank you for that. Is it not worth having them cleaned, or not feasible with the original injectors due to the lack of an in-line filter?

Thanks again for all of the help and input.

Cheers

[sqwinny]

Most people just run without cats here in Florida. No emissions so no care. Then again the direct injection system in these cars is pretty effective so you don’t smell no cats or fuel/oil out the tail pipe unless the car has been sitting for a minute or two. And it’s not very pungent.

The injectors to have them cleaned and flow tested is around the same cost as just replacing them. That’s the thing as direct injection cleaning is $$$ compared to regular injector cleaning. The only fuel filters in the car is the sock on the LPFP in the tank and a micron filter in the HPFP. Anything else gets routed to the injections and thus they clog.

[goldbug]

Originally Posted by sqwinny

Most people just run without cats here in Florida. No emissions so no care. Then again the direct injection system in these cars is pretty effective so you don’t smell no cats or fuel/oil out the tail pipe unless the car has been sitting for a minute or two. And it’s not very pungent.

The injectors to have them cleaned and flow tested is around the same cost as just replacing them. That’s the thing as direct injection cleaning is $$$ compared to regular injector cleaning. The only fuel filters in the car is the sock on the LPFP in the tank and a micron filter in the HPFP. Anything else gets routed to the injections and thus they clog.

Makes sense with regards to cost for the injectors…I got used to paying employee and friend prices for services and that is no longer an option. I wonder if the valve cover leak and related parts are worth visiting a dealership for…since I have a 2016 n26 I forgot our car has the SULEV warranty for 15yr/150k miles and apparently the valve cover and injectors are both covered by the warranty, per BMW info.

And that’s really good to hear about the lack of smell going catless. There’s a few good options so I’ll shop around for a while, that’s probably the last part on my list I’ll replace unless the OEM unit is on its way out, but even that is covered by the SULEV warranty. I’d have that replaced under warranty for now if there’s any issues, and upgrade down the road along with the rest of the exhaust. All really great points you’ve made, thanks again for the input.

Edit - not sure about SULEV warranties being honored here in Florida but I’ll give my local dealership a call tomorrow and find out.

[sqwinny]

If you really get down the rabbit hole of these cars as someone with a modded car will eventually get all the breathing mods (as your list shows), the baby td04 turbo and a custom tune on full e85 nets around 320-330 whp and runs a mid to high 12 with street tires.

You might want to look into this if you want that last "free" breathing mod as it adds 10 whp as the stock n20/n26 head only flows around 150-160 CFM on the intake side and 160 CFM on the exhaust side (not a typo). You email Marty for a set of four instead of 6. Don't need a tune for these, factory DME/CPU will compensate after around 10 miles or so with STFT fuel trims.

https://www.bimmermilvs.com

If you really want to see a huge rabbit hole, you are more than welcome to check the build in my signature. Car currently makes around 400whp on 93 octane and still tuning it, however should cross 500whp on full e85. One thing at a time.

[goldbug]

Originally Posted by sqwinny

If you really get down the rabbit hole of these cars as someone with a modded car will eventually get all the breathing mods (as your list shows), the baby td04 turbo and a custom tune on full e85 nets around 320-330 whp and runs a mid to high 12 with street tires.

You might want to look into this if you want that last "free" breathing mod as it adds 10 whp as the stock n20/n26 head only flows around 150-160 CFM on the intake side and 160 CFM on the exhaust side (not a typo). You email Marty for a set of four instead of 6. Don't need a tune for these, factory DME/CPU will compensate after around 10 miles or so with STFT fuel trims.

https://www.bimmermilvs.com

If you really want to see a huge rabbit hole, you are more than welcome to check the build in my signature. Car currently makes around 400whp on 93 octane and still tuning it, however should cross 500whp on full e85. One thing at a time.

I’ll definitely give those a consideration, thanks for sharing that. Not too pricey either since we just need the 4.

I’m going to see what the service center says this afternoon regarding SULEV warranty work in Florida, but I don’t have the highest hopes. I’ve had weird luck in the past with warranty work so I’ll give it a shot, who knows what they might end up replacing if BMW NA approves it, but doubt they will per their own documents. That’ll be the decider for what I may do to the engine/turbo.

I don’t want to spend too much on this project but we shall see where it goes. I eyed the MHI big turbo also, but don’t plan or want to upgrade internals. Trying to stay around/under $5k all-in for parts including wheels and suspension - tires I have now are brand new and will swap to the new wheels, and I’m trying to keep it simple running 93 octane only. That’s a really good point you made about running a 91 octane tune for the 93 octane gas here though previously, agreed that most of it is crap fuel here in SE FL. You actually have me wondering, so I’m going to data log in my G37 since my tuner made a 91 and 93 octane map…let’s see which shows better numbers from a few different brands. I invest more in my G37 track build since that’s always been my main passion project, at least for the foreseeable future. I put a ton of TLC into that build, and have a supercharger intake mani, baffled oil pan, and Wavetrac diff + 4.08 final waiting to go in it to name a few items on my overdue to-do list. But man the BMW bug has grown on me over the years of ownership. It’s been hard not to mod.

[goldbug]

I found the aluminum valve cover from Uro parts for the N20. Another N26 owner confirmed that it works flawlessly with the N26 as long as you transfer/install a new PCV cap with an N26 version that has a nipple on it for the plumbing. So I’ll definitely be going that route vs a new plastic cover to have to replace again sooner than later.

Good news is that cover looks like it includes all gaskets as well, so at least I can return or exchange my gasket kit with FCP. For the money it’s a no-brainer imo.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2064523

[goldbug]

Uro Parts aluminum valve cover and a new PCV valve cover/nipple are on the way and will be here in time for me to install everything Friday. Ignition coils are ready and waiting, and I’ll also be knocking out an oil change while I’m at it. I’m having a friend at my old shop rotate the tires real quick bc that’s no fun when not on a lift, and only costs me a 12 pack of beer. Cleaning the air filter out also and getting it ready for a weekend road trip.

I’ll post some pictures of the repair once it’s all done. After we get back, the next to-do items are a diff fluid flush then replacing the accessory drive belt and belt tensioner. I’ll probably replace the fuel injectors at that time. Shooting for 85k or 90k max mileage to knock those items out. I honestly forgot about the accessory belt, but looks good for its age. Not pushing my luck though. After that it’s time for the mods to start piling up in the garage, gotta love seeing a mountain of parts boxes.

[goldbug]

Grabbed some new-ish oil to try out. Mobil 1 FS Euro 5W-40. A decent bit cheaper and easier to find locally vs Pennzoil Platinum Euro. I’ve had trouble finding the PPE oil every time I go to grab some for an oil change, and have had to grab bottles from multiple stores.

It sounds like a couple years ago in 23’ they updated this product, and it now carries BMW LL-01 and API SP certifications. Some stores have not reflected part numbers to reflect this, but if you go into a store and check the (updated) bottle it clearly states the current approvals on the back. Good enough for me. Sticking with a MANN filter, knocking this out tomorrow first thing before I start on the aluminum valve cover swap.

I also reached out to Mr. Saikou, the owner of Saikou Michi Co., and he’s whipping up a gorgeous catch can for me now. As soon as that comes in I’ll install it and share pictures.

[goldbug]

The deed is done. I installed the Uro Parts aluminum valve cover over the weekend. It wasn’t too difficult, just very time consuming and it’s something you want to make sure is done correctly. It took me a full day (of course with several long breaks in between). I followed FCP Euro’s guide which was super helpful, but they missed a few small things - mainly because it was for the older N20 not the N26, and for a gasket replacement, not a valve cover replacement.

The Uro Parts aluminum valve cover came in perfect shape from FCP, and included pre-installed gaskets and some nice new hardware. Some of the threads on the Uro cover are meant for their new hardware, and the original Torx screws will not work. The good news about that, is that they all use the same E-torx socket now, except for the HPFP bolts which are OEM (installed new HPFP bolts). They also included a few spares which is always nice. I did install a new valvetronic plug seal also, which wasn’t included with the valve cover kit. All other gaskets were included and pre-installed. The Uro Parts valve cover has mounting points for all of the original clips to attach to, for an identical to OEM fitment. As others have pointed out, the only major difference between the N20 and N26 for the valve cover is the PCV valve cover cap/membrane. The N26 has a vacuum hose running from the cover to the intake, which is also why some intakes are advertised only for the N20 as they don’t have the nipple installed for the vacuum line on the N26 (which is stupid easy to install). I ordered a replacement cap from Amazon and swapped it over. I used the membrane and spring from the Uro Parts N20 PCV cap, since (at least the spring) seemed to be of higher quality. Pop the old one off, pop the new one on but be sure to set the spring correctly when clipping it in. It will slide down and not seat properly if you aren’t paying attention. The only other difference for the N26 was the boost control solenoid is not attached to the cover, which was one less step.

The vacuum pump on the rear of the valve cover is not too difficult to access once you know what angle to come in from. Reach around behind it from the drivers side to access the bolts- was much easier than the passenger side. I used an Icon mini-ratchet from HF (SKU # 58074) to access those bolts. Side note, that has been one of the most useful tools I’ve ever owned. I have a set in each car and in the house. It comes in handy more than any other tool I have. For the torque wrench I just used a Tekton 1/4” torque wrench. I have a digital ratchet adapter, but I trust the physical click a little more.

Next up is a diff flush, brake fluid flush + new brake lines, and replacing the accessory drive belt and tensioner. I’ll find time in the next couple of weeks to knock all of that out.

I’ll make a FS thread for my OEM valve cover if anyone is interested in it. Appears to be in good shape, no cracks anywhere I can see.

[goldbug]

BimmerWorld V3 brake lines are on their way, along with a new Gates accessory belt, INA belt tensioner, Redline diff fluid, and a new blue vacuum hose for the intake. Catch can is still being made, but I went ahead and ordered a new Rein crankcase vent hose to cut out the hose end fittings for use with the catch can. I accidentally snapped one of the super-brittle clips off of my original hose when installing the new valve cover. It’s not going anywhere, but I’d rather install new connections that haven’t been subjected to all of the thermal cycles, and a tad of OCD missing that 1 clip.

[goldbug]

Installed a new Gates/INA tensioner and Gates accessory drive belt today. Super freaking easy on this motor, 20-30 minute job. I also replaced my almost dry rotted vacuum line that runs from the valve cover to the intake. Silicone and blue now so it will last longer and not be as easy to accidentally damage, since it’s more visible.

Next up is the rear diff flush which I’ll knock out this week since I already have the filler adapter, new OEM drain plug, and Redline 75W-90 fluid. I wasn’t sure if people run Motul in these rear diffs, but it’s my preferred gear oil brand, so I’ll probably use that next time around. I use Motul everywhere in my Infiniti, except my daily engine oil which is Redline since it’s high in Ester which the VQ37VHR needs and loves. Motul for the track stuff.

BimmerWorld V3 brake lines showed up too, so I’ll get around to swapping those and performing a flush this weekend sometime. Edit, I thought no DOT bands were not included by mistake but no shame in admitting I’m just getting a little older and need glasses, lol. It’s stamped on the connector now, so no more band on the lines for the DOT code.

[goldbug]

If anyone is curious, the ID of the crankcase vent tube connectors is 27mm. I went ahead and cut them out of a new hose to prep for my catch can, figured I’d share the measurements since I couldn’t’ find them anywhere else.

[goldbug]

Received my Saikou Michi oil catch can today, it is gorgeous. I opted for 3/4” ports since that seems to be the norm for all of the N20/N26 catch cans. Now I just need to fabricate a bracket and get some hose lengths measured out. Catch can will be going on the passenger side. Plenty of room there since it’s a decent height, and I need to run a drain tube extension through the service panel.

I have a bunch of pre-cut SS braided hoses from a previous catch can install on my G37, so I’ll use those to see what length I need and how I want to route them. HPS makes a nice silicone 90* elbow that tapers down, so I’ll probably use that with a rubber hose for the crankcase connector on the valve cover. Similar setup for the turbo inlet. I have a sheet of carbon fiber I’ll cut up and use to make a custom mounting bracket.

I really like to avoid using silicone with oil applications, since most silicone is not rated for oil, and it will and does permeate through the hoses overtime. Only a very small percentage of silicone hoses have a proper oil-resistant lining. Same thing goes for using silicone radiator hoses-they will permeate unless the hose has a proper inner lining. I’m still hunting around, but there aren’t too many options so I’ll likely have to use silicone reducers, but in only 2 spots, so not too much of a worry. I’ll use oil rated hose of some type everywhere else.

I also finally went ahead and did my rear differential flush and fill using Redline 75W-90. I used 1x bottle after sucking out as much old fluid as possible, using a Mityvac handheld extractor and the FCP extractor adapter. I had to use a small worm gear clamp to use the FCP adapter with my Mityvac since the included spring clamp was too small. Past that was a super easy job as outlined by FCP. I used a 1/2” breaker bar to get the 14mm plug free, it was pretty in there from years of use. Came loose as soon as I put it on there. Last maintenance item to do for now is replace all the brake lines and perform a brake flush, which I’ll do this week or weekend sometime.

Couple quick shots of how the OCC looks: