[cfm56d7b]

Any recommendations?

Any experience with https://vadersolutions.com/products/...ilter-housing?

[cfm56d7b]

Inviting kern417 to the conversation.

[toxik]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

Inviting kern417 to the conversation.

i believe he made a video about this couple of months ago, explaining why plastic may have been chosen as OEM for a reason.

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by toxik

i believe he made a video about this couple of months ago, explaining why plastic may have been chosen as OEM for a reason.

Saw the video. Nicely done.

[lens]

Originally Posted by toxik

i believe he made a video about this couple of months ago, explaining why plastic may have been chosen as OEM for a reason.

If OEM plastic lasts 60-100k miles.

It'll last another 60-100k miles when it's replaced.

[kern417]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

Inviting kern417 to the conversation.

Thanks for the tag.

You guys know me. I don't like changing something that ain't broke, even if it broke (once)

I have only seen one person say they had to modify the housing so it's a little hit or miss. but Most everyone seems happy with it. i'm waiting for more data before i change from oem.

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by kern417

Thanks for the tag.

You guys know me. I don't like changing something that ain't broke, even if it broke (once)

I have only seen one person say they had to modify the housing so it's a little hit or miss. but Most everyone seems happy with it. i'm waiting for more data before i change from oem.

Great to see you visiting this thread and offering advice. Always appreciated.

[Fast_Rabbi]

Aluminium oil filter housing won't change anything as the seals will remain the same : plastic.
For the people who will tell me : well, the aluminium won't broke/crack at least, I'll answer : don't over torque your filter, that's all.
People just get and OFH in aluminium hoping that it will solve their problem : that will not, that won't change anything at all.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by Fast_Rabbi

Aluminium oil filter housing won't change anything as the seals will remain the same : plastic.
For the people who will tell me : well, the aluminium won't broke/crack at least, I'll answer : don't over torque your filter, that's all.
People just get and OFH in aluminium hoping that it will solve their problem : that will not, that won't change anything at all.

They never learn.

[nosam1g]

I upgraded to aluminum one. If youre gonna keep the car , id go aluminum just to avoid replacing it again. Yes the little gaskets could go. In cali it gets really hot , so to avoid cracking the housing again i went aluminum. i seen plastic one go out 30k 40k 60 70k all depends on the heating cycles. While at it replaced all the coolant lines down there, and aluminum connector that connects to the head

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/375348908430

[OR GE]

As someone who has worked as a designer in various industries (including automotive), I wouldn’t dismiss “plastic” parts out of hand. The gaskets very well may be the true culprit. If a high number of housings are failing, that’s one thing. But if the leaks are occurring due to gaskets, upgrading to aluminum is rather pointless, as some have already pointed out.

[sigterm2.0]

Originally Posted by Fast_Rabbi

Aluminium oil filter housing won't change anything as the seals will remain the same : plastic.
For the people who will tell me : well, the aluminium won't broke/crack at least, I'll answer : don't over torque your filter, that's all.
People just get and OFH in aluminium hoping that it will solve their problem : that will not, that won't change anything at all.

Actually, I never over-torqued my filter cap. I literally just did this a week or so ago.

The lower coolant orifice broke where the seal sits. My metal housing is working fine. I have experienced no heat soak from the block to the exchanger that affects any of the temps in my logs (IAT, Oil, etc)...

So far, no issues. I guess I'll pull this thread up in another 90K miles.

[yupetc]

Mine went out the same way as sighter2.0 posted, almost same exact piece cracked and caused coolant leak. Fortunately enough, water pump weep hole also show signs of leakage. Both of these were dealt with at the same time at around 64k miles.

I also did the coolant flange upgrade to aluminum one, but bought the flange that has a built-in o-ring gutter. There are a bunch of "flat flange" versions of the coolant return junction, I couldn't trust those so I found the correct flange so I can use the OEM O-ring and things went well.


On OFGH replacement into the aluminum version, I'm at about a year after the replacement now, got 88k miles on the clock, and no issues at all. I also did MHD Stage 2+ tune after the full coolant/oil piping refresh. So yeah, the aluminum housing held up well. Few small tweaks I did were that I went with OEM rubber gaskets, OEM bolts, OEM oil cooler unit, and I swapped out the built-in oil check valve from the plastic OEM unit simply because I only trust that aluminum cast housing, everything else I can't help but suspect the quality and the risk involved. Anyway, job took me a full Saturday to take things out, the whole Sunday to put things back along with VRSF CP and DP, and a whole radiator since I did accidentally crack the inlet hose during the big job. The radiator has plastic junctions which are very easy to crack. So if you're doing a bunch of work altogether at the same time, be careful not to proturberate the radiator joints too hard; they crack easily.