[rcaso26]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

I will say that you will thoroughly enjoy Stage 1. It's smooth and good, clean power. If it's within your budget and you want it, I say get it. What's great, too, is that if you decide to go Stage 2 in the future, then it's not difficult to change.

Flash will always be smoother and better. You have control of the entire car vs. a few sensors.

Thanks for your input! That's what I was thinking too.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by rcaso26

Thanks for your input! That's what I was thinking too.

Another great thing is if you sell it and move to a new platform, so long as they support it, you can transfer at least one time. BM3 is pretty damn flexible, which is another reason I love it. I'm considering going to the F8X platform and it makes me happy I at least can milk some power out of it immediately. It's an amazing all-in-one tool and getting better, as I'm sure you can tell by the way I talk about it lol.

Let me know if you decide to go with it!

[Mid_Night_F20]

anyone here got dyno results running FBO with BM3 stage 2 98 map ?

[canman111]

I'll share my experiences with Bootmod3.
I have a 328i RWD complete stock.
Recently added Bootmod3 stage 1 OTS MAP. Was going to go jb4 but given that dme removal is not required and apparently smoother power curve with flash tube it was clear choice.
Compared to OEM ECU, it feels a bit faster but the biggest difference for me was that the "power curve" feels ALOT smoother. Before it was a bit jerky when you put the pedal down, now it speeds up more smoothly and quickly.
Went with stage 1 with the 98RON map.(I think that's 93 in US?)

Might consider OTS stage 2 in the future when I have more mods, but right now I'm just gonna do ER chargepipe for safety.

btw it only took me around 15 minutes? Very easy to do.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Mid_Night_F20

anyone here got dyno results running FBO with BM3 stage 2 98 map ?

If you have Facebook, ask on the "Bootmod3 Enthusiasts" page. Someone might have it there.

Originally Posted by canman111

I'll share my experiences with Bootmod3.
I have a 328i RWD complete stock.
Recently added Bootmod3 stage 1 OTS MAP. Was going to go jb4 but given that dme removal is not required and apparently smoother power curve with flash tube it was clear choice.
Compared to OEM ECU, it feels a bit faster but the biggest difference for me was that the "power curve" feels ALOT smoother. Before it was a bit jerky when you put the pedal down, now it speeds up more smoothly and quickly.
Went with stage 1 with the 98RON map.(I think that's 93 in US?)

Might consider OTS stage 2 in the future when I have more mods, but right now I'm just gonna do ER chargepipe for safety.

btw it only took me around 15 minutes? Very easy to do.

Good to hear! I never got a chance to go with Stage 1, but that is what I've heard across the board. The N20 has a very low peak for torque, so trying to balance that to be smooth was clearly not on the BMW engineers mind, haha. Stage 2 is also pretty great. Enough power to take on a 335i (Enough for me to beat one from the dig 8 out of 10 times. He ran JB4 with E20 mix).

[TO 335]

Originally Posted by TO 335

Hey guys I got Bm3 back in September stg 2 93 octane. I have been running version 1 since, I now see they have version 7 out anyone know how much different the newer version is?

Just updated to V7 no issues car does feel more aggressive still cannot find anything on what was tweaked from version to version?

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by TO 335

Just updated to V7 no issues car does feel more aggressive still cannot find anything on what was tweaked from version to version?

I'd assume changes to timing, fueling, boost, etc. The basic things to refine it and ultimately get cleaner, safer power.

But at this rate, best thing to do is message Dzenan or Halim for that info. They do make Facebook posts usually when they go from VX to VX. You could also try searching the Facebook group and see, but might a lot to comb through.

[iFreeStylin]

Anyone tried the burble settings on stage 1 yet?

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by iFreeStylin

Anyone tried the burble settings on stage 1 yet?

interested in this as well...

[bebe_rossi]

What is the difference between map N20-PWG-L and -H? I can not find an answer any where..

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by iFreeStylin

Anyone tried the burble settings on stage 1 yet?

Not sure if you can enable those on Stage 1. If you can with the user config settings, I wouldn't go high. You run the risk of killing the cat.

Originally Posted by bebe_rossi

What is the difference between map N20-PWG-L and -H? I can not find an answer any where..

L = Low. These maps are for the 28i, where we have 10:1 compression (low)
H = High. These maps are for the 20i, where they have 11:1 compression (high)

When you buy BM3 and go to the OTS Tab, it will only show the maps that apply to your car. No way to mess it up in terms of pulling an incorrect one.

[iFreeStylin]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Not sure if you can enable those on Stage 1. If you can with the user config settings, I wouldn't go high. You run the risk of killing the cat.

I can with the user config settings but it's best to go stage 2 first?

[TO 335]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

I'd assume changes to timing, fueling, boost, etc. The basic things to refine it and ultimately get cleaner, safer power.

But at this rate, best thing to do is message Dzenan or Halim for that info. They do make Facebook posts usually when they go from VX to VX. You could also try searching the Facebook group and see, but might a lot to comb through.

Been couple of days on PWG V7 stage 2 93 man they must of added some more torque the car is just flying. Smooth delivery and the burbles are nice touch noticed the sport gauges changed also the cold start is so quiet good on PTF for the great updates!

[Kailec]

Do I NEED to swap out spark plugs? Going to flash 91 Stage 1 map for stock parts. My car is at 103k km roughly.

[TO 335]

If you haven't changed the plugs yet I would changed mine at 85k prior to getting BM3.

[Kailec]

Originally Posted by TO 335

If you haven't changed the plugs yet I would changed mine at 85k prior to getting BM3.

Thanks! Where did you get your plugs?

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Kailec

Do I NEED to swap out spark plugs? Going to flash 91 Stage 1 map for stock parts. My car is at 103k km roughly.

Yeah, if your plugs are old, you might as well replace and rule out any possible failures. For Stage 1, it can be ran on a stock car and plugs aren't required. It's on Stage 2 that the NGK plugs are highly recommended and gapped around 0.020". You can find the plugs many places. The part # is: SILZKBR8*8S. The asterik can be replaced with D, E, or F. The next letter just indicates a new revision. The difference between them is likely minimal. I personally have the D model. You can find the E model here: https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=40569

I found F once upon a time, but not directly listed on NGK's site, so it may not be a "real" F model.

[Kailec]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Yeah, if your plugs are old, you might as well replace and rule out any possible failures. For Stage 1, it can be ran on a stock car and plugs aren't required. It's on Stage 2 that the NGK plugs are highly recommended and gapped around 0.020". You can find the plugs many places. The part # is: SILZKBR8*8S. The asterik can be replaced with D, E, or F. The next letter just indicates a new revision. The difference between them is likely minimal. I personally have the D model. You can find the E model here: https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=40569

I found F once upon a time, but not directly listed on NGK's site, so it may not be a "real" F model.

Thanks! The part number seems to be the official one with NGK, but since they don't sell directly to the customer in Canada, can I take it that the 96987 model is the one I want? Since I would be doing stage 1 do I need to do special gapping or can I just swap normally? I plan to do stage 2 eventually as well, are there problems with pre-emptively doing 0.020?

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Kailec

Thanks! The part number seems to be the official one with NGK, but since they don't sell directly to the customer in Canada, can I take it that the 96987 model is the one I want? Since I would be doing stage 1 do I need to do special gapping or can I just swap normally? I plan to do stage 2 eventually as well, are there problems with pre-emptively doing 0.020?

Yup! 96987 is the model #. As for gapping, I would gap yours to about 0.024" or 0.026". This will just help performance wise to ensure you get a spark each time under high boost, but it's also possible for some cars to run at 0.024" at Stage 2 with no issues so far. I would say do that while you have them out and if the worst comes to worst when you change to Stage 2, you take them out and regap. But hey, might as well give it a shot to not have to pull them out again. As for your last question, usually if you gap too far without the correct tune, you can get rough idle and possibly run richer as the car isn't burning all the fuel.

[Kailec]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Yup! 96987 is the model #. As for gapping, I would gap yours to about 0.024" or 0.026". This will just help performance wise to ensure you get a spark each time under high boost, but it's also possible for some cars to run at 0.024" at Stage 2 with no issues so far. I would say do that while you have them out and if the worst comes to worst when you change to Stage 2, you take them out and regap. But hey, might as well give it a shot to not have to pull them out again. As for your last question, usually if you gap too far without the correct tune, you can get rough idle and possibly run richer as the car isn't burning all the fuel.

Sounds like 0.026 is the safer route for Stage 1 then?

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Kailec

Sounds like 0.026 is the safer route for Stage 1 then?

Again, for Stage 1, you won't see any difference. It really comes into play in Stage 2 when you have more pressure in the cylinders. If you do 0.024 or 0.026 while you're already swapping out the plugs, then you potentially save yourself another trip of having to take them out, gap them, and put back. At either of the above gaps, you will not see any negative connections to them on Stage 1. If and when you go Stage 2 and let's say you get stuttering or misfires, you know what your first troubleshooting step is. If not, then you enjoy the car and tune. lol.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Kailec

Sounds like 0.026 is the safer route for Stage 1 then?

Also, I wanted to say that I also ran 0.018 when I was FBO but on a stock tune while I was waiting for a revision. No issues aside from a slightly rough idle.