[pclever1]

Hey all,
I am having an odd issue with my 2016 340i and wanted to see how others have fixed it and to update this thread: 1450356


The problem is currently intermittent and started about a week ago. Only the drivers door is affected. When I try to unlock/open the door with the drivers door handle the actuator pin rises a little but not all the way and I am only able to unlock it by the using the unlock button. When I press the button to unlock or lock the doors the drivers pin moves up/down slower than the rest of the doors.

Again this issues is intermittent and not happening more than 30% of the time since I first noticed the problem. This makes me think that the actuator itself is not broken and that the cable might be the issue.


Someone posted these videos showing the problem perfectly (source is above mentioned thread):

• Handle not fully unlocking door:

• Actuator moving slower on drivers door:

Please let me know if you have had issues like this in the past.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by pclever1

Hey all,
I am having an odd issue with my 2016 340i and wanted to see how others have fixed it and to update this thread: 1450356


The problem is currently intermittent and started about a week ago. Only the drivers door is affected. When I try to unlock/open the door with the drivers door handle the actuator pin rises a little but not all the way and I am only able to unlock it by the using the unlock button. When I press the button to unlock or lock the doors the drivers pin moves up/down slower than the rest of the doors.

Again this issues is intermittent and not happening more than 30% of the time since I first noticed the problem. This makes me think that the actuator itself is not broken and that the cable might be the issue.


Someone posted these videos showing the problem perfectly (source is above mentioned thread):

• Handle not fully unlocking door:

• Actuator moving slower on drivers door:

Please let me know if you have had issues like this in the past.

Yes. I wont say common, but not uncommon. Both of my doors actually did this. Not sure when your purchase date was, but if the car is under warranty, just bring it to BMW and it will be covered. Thats what i did. The SA knew about the problem from other cars and i sent my video of the problem, which looked exactly like the ones you posted, to prove i wasnt making it up. I would need to look at my service receipt but IIRC, they ran a diagnostic test on the actuator, confirmed it was faulty, and replaced for free under warranty.

[pclever1]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Yes. I wont say common, but not uncommon. Both of my doors actually did this. Not sure when your purchase date was, but if the car is under warranty, just bring it to BMW and it will be covered. Thats what i did. The SA knew about the problem from other cars and i sent my video of the problem, which looked exactly like the ones you posted, to prove i wasnt making it up. I would need to look at my service receipt but IIRC, they ran a diagnostic test on the actuator, confirmed it was faulty, and replaced for free under warranty.

Thanks for the reply, my car just lost its warranty a few months ago and I was hoping to do the repair myself. Unfortunately I don't know how to diagnose the problem or what part(s) to order. If you or anyone else can help with that I would really appreciate it!

[F32Fleet]

Have this problem on my 2015 435i and dealer was unable to replicate. There was a recall for MY-2014 and before.

IMO they should've recalled more cars, or issues a silent recall "customer complaint regardless of miles".

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by pclever1

Thanks for the reply, my car just lost its warranty a few months ago and I was hoping to do the repair myself. Unfortunately I don't know how to diagnose the problem or what part(s) to order. If you or anyone else can help with that I would really appreciate it!

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

Have this problem on my 2015 435i and dealer was unable to replicate. There was a recall for MY-2014 and before.

IMO they should've recalled more cars, or issues a silent recall "customer complaint regardless of miles".

Lucky for you two i keep all of my service history receipts.

See attachment below. This is the procedure the dealer should follow. Also, sending them a video proves there is an issue with your car and it would be kindof ridiculous if they gave it back without fixing it (but ive seen worse lol).

Note, mine only happened like 1/100 times, definitely not something easy to replicate, but thankfully this dealer did their due diligence and the diagnostic procedure below to confirm the issue and replace the appropriate part.

[Carlo340i]

I had the same problem in my 2016 340i. It was still under warranty so I took it to the dealer. They were not able to replicate the problem but they replaced the cable anyway. It has only happened once since.

As a work around, some people set the doors to unlock when you turn off the car using BimmerCode.

[thejeremyman9]

If you guys are still in warranty i would capture a video of the problem, then go back and show them the video and the picture i uploaded of the diagnostic procedure/code.

[exE36M3]

So to avoid this issue, use the unlock button.
Pulling the door handle "forces" the door unlock... and the door will open.
BUT SOMETIMES the latch mechanism gets stuck in the closed position after you open the door.

So when you go to close it.... BANG. Close it too hard and the latch mechanism jams up or breaks.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by exE36M3

So to avoid this issue, use the unlock button.
Pulling the door handle "forces" the door unlock... and the door will open.
BUT SOMETIMES the latch mechanism gets stuck in the closed position after you open the door.

So when you go to close it.... BANG. Close it too hard and the latch mechanism jams up or breaks.

Not sure what you are trying to say here but when this issue happens you cant force the door unlock by pulling on the handle. The lock just drops back down and the door does not unlock nor open.