[jsouth]

I'm currently at 128k miles on my 2013 328i w/N20 (07/12 build date), mostly highway. I intend to keep the vehicle to 200k, so I do more preventative things than some people.

List of maintenance outside of oil changes:

• Driver's side mirror replaced under warranty.
• Bowden cable for hood release in engine bay replaced with improved part after the first one would no longer open the hood release on one side. Same cable replaced again after body shop hacks screwed it up during a deer collision repair and it failed again some months later.
• Replaced plugs at 65k. Replaced again at 125K with new coil packs. Neither was absolutely necessary.
• Drained and filled ATF at 103k. Shifting was smoother afterwards.

Otherwise, I change oil filter at 5k intervals, and oil and filter at 10k intervals. Air filters as specified in manual.

[kerny7678]

Originally Posted by jsouth

• Replaced plugs at 65k. Replaced again at 125K with new coil packs. Neither was absolutely necessary.

Notice any differences with the new coils?

Any insight on when they should be changed out?

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by kerny7678

Notice any differences with the new coils?

Any insight on when they should be changed out?

No need to change coil packs until one experiences fault code/failure- generally should last life of the car.

[sigtwenty]

Originally Posted by JoeyF30

Aren't you concerned of timing chain issues???

I was reading up a lot on this when I got mine... conclusion was it's quite a rare issue, and in part level of care and also the type of driving and the use of auto/start stop feature (which I refuse to use )

Honestly I'm not worried. It also seems there are some noticable warning signs before major damage is done.

The m62tu was especially prone to this failure too. But mostly I think due to poor vanos maintenance and if the car sits a lot as well as poor oil changes.

[jsouth]

Originally Posted by kerny7678

Notice any differences with the new coils?

Any insight on when they should be changed out?

Of course, those SELLING coil packs say at every spark plug change. I think the previous answer of when a fault is noted, change them is good advice. I simply want to avoid problems by preventative maintenance (done when I have time off) to avoid problems when I need to rely on the vehicle. I felt like a 125k mile interval was reasonable for that philosophy.

[QUiKSR20]

Guys if you want this post to be useful please comment what motor you have ie N20/N26 / N55 etc, Really not worth commenting to say you have a B58 with 35k miles which is basically a brand new car. The post is asking if you have 100K+ miles in hopes im assuming to see how the cars are doing the upper mileages.

• Car - 2013 328i 6MT RWD
• Engine - N20
• Mileage - 105k
• OC Interval - LiquiMoly every 6500-7500
• Major issues - 0 so far but have developed oil pump whine when cold, Warm its gone.

I have a '13 6MT 328i RWD purchased used 4 years ago w/48k miles. Prior to me owning it, it received BMW's horrible intervals ie oil change every 10-15k which is partially to blame why we are seeing sludge issues and stretched and messed up chains... I know people have done blackstone labs tests on the 10k mile changes but I wouldn't recommend that atleast not with the touchy N20/N55. 6500-7500 is prob the sweet spot unless you put those miles on fast and drive a ton. Me, it takes over 6 months to do 10k miles and not looking under the hood for 6months or 10k miles is never a good thing esp with these motors being turbo burning a little oil here and there as is.

BMW's intervals are semi bogus ie ( ZF's dont need maint, when the mfr makes a maint kit ) Their definition of lifetime is "lifetime of the warranty from them" or just to say "Free Maint" its marketing bullshit. Ive had start-stop coded off and have been tuned since 50k, Currently im at 105k miles with a slight oil pump whine ( NOT CHAINS ) I let the car warm up but once warm she gets ringed out to 6500/7k daily, The car is a BMW its mean to be driven not babied.

If you buy oil change kits from FCP Euro they are for life, Buy an oil change and send back the used oil for a refund if you like.

Ive done all the usual maintenance at the proper intervals ie plugs/filters etc + trans fluid change at 100k, No issues. I dont see any reason this car wont hit 200k miles if properly maintained.

[adhrp]

Originally Posted by QUiKSR20

I have a '13 6MT 328i RWD purchased used 4 years ago w/48k miles. Prior to me owning it BMW's horrible intervals were maintained ie oil change every 10-15k which is partially to blame why we are seeing sludge issues and stretched and messed up chains...

Do you have links to sludge issues on the N20? I have not seen a single one reported, but perhaps I missed it. No one has been able to link the TC to any one factor conclusively. In fact, even on forum speculations as to why the TC might fail, oil changes rank very low on the list of potential causes.

[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by adhrp

Do you have links to sludge issues on the N20? I have not seen a single one reported, but perhaps I missed it. No one has been able to link the TC to any one factor conclusively. In fact, even on forum speculations as to why the TC might fail, oil changes rank very low on the list of potential causes.

Not 10000% proof but if you read some of the other threads we are seeing on here the N20 engines that look like the post below tend to have high OC intervals ( im sure its not the sole reason, but it cant be helping thats for sure ) - https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...1595693&page=5

I can tell you when I did a valvecover on my N20 at 90k miles my engine looked nothing like that, It was completely clean.
Is the high oil change interval cause the chain to fail? Probably not but I dunno that sludge is suspect and in general sludge usually comes poor oil change intervals in general with any engine.

Im not sure of your backround but the mechanic / weekend wrencher & track rat in me gets a horrible feeling about 10k mile OC intervals esp how cheap oil is, That also means your not popping your hood or looking at anything for a long time.

[sigtwenty]

Originally Posted by QUiKSR20

Guys if you want this post to be useful please comment what motor you have ie N20/N26 / N55 etc, Really not worth commenting to say you have a B58 with 35k miles which is basically a brand new car. The post is asking if you have 100K+ miles in hopes im assuming to see how the cars are doing the upper mileages.

• Car - 2013 328i 6MT RWD
• Engine - N20
• Mileage - 105k
• OC Interval - LiquiMoly every 6500-7500
• Major issues - 0 so far but have developed oil pump whine when cold, Warm its gone.

I have a '13 6MT 328i RWD purchased used 4 years ago w/48k miles. Prior to me owning it, it received BMW's horrible intervals ie oil change every 10-15k which is partially to blame why we are seeing sludge issues and stretched and messed up chains... I know people have done blackstone labs tests on the 10k mile changes but I wouldn't recommend that atleast not with the touchy N20/N55. 6500-7500 is prob the sweet spot unless you put those miles on fast and drive a ton. Me, it takes over 6 months to do 10k miles and not looking under the hood for 6months or 10k miles is never a good thing esp with these motors being turbo burning a little oil here and there as is.

BMW's intervals are semi bogus ie ( ZF's dont need maint, when the mfr makes a maint kit ) Their definition of lifetime is "lifetime of the warranty from them" or just to say "Free Maint" its marketing bullshit. Ive had start-stop coded off and have been tuned since 50k, Currently im at 105k miles with a slight oil pump whine ( NOT CHAINS ) I let the car warm up but once warm she gets ringed out to 6500/7k daily, The car is a BMW its mean to be driven not babied.

If you buy oil change kits from FCP Euro they are for life, Buy an oil change and send back the used oil for a refund if you like.

Ive done all the usual maintenance at the proper intervals ie plugs/filters etc + trans fluid change at 100k, No issues. I dont see any reason this car wont hit 200k miles if properly maintained.

I'll agree to the oil change interval. My e66 had a very noticable decline in idle and general performance when the oil hit 6000-6500 miles. I went to 5000 max and it made a huge difference. BMWs are not made to enjoy oil over 5000-6000 miles IDGAF what anyone says or recommends from the factory or otherwise. Personally....5000 max. My e38 even doesnt like it at 5000 it starts to feel funny.

[JoeyF30]

I change my oil and filter ever 4.7-5K MAX. Happy N26 owner here just did coils plugs and air filter she's doing great.

[kerny7678]

Originally Posted by QUiKSR20

If you buy oil change kits from FCP Euro they are for life, Buy an oil change and send back the used oil for a refund if you like.

And this deal does not just apply to oil. Pretty much any part they sell is for life.

[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by kerny7678

And this deal does not just apply to oil. Pretty much any part they sell is for life.

Agree FCP is great, Im not gonna lie I feel kinda dirty sending oil back for a refund but then again they do allow it and also I buy parts from FCP constantly and have given them thousands of my money.. Their lifetime guarantee on everything is second to none.

[jh_f30]

FINALLY ordered a transmission filter pan and fluid kit. 124k+ miles. Yes yes, I know...flame away. Slightly delayed and rough shift from 1st to 2nd first thing in the morning when everything is cold. Hoping to get it smoothed out a bit.

Expecting it to be delivered next Wednesday. Hopefully it goes off without a hitch. I'll be attempting it on jack stands. Also, I'm planning on doing a minimal drain and fill. Anticipating using 3-4 quarts of fresh fluid.

[kerny7678]

Originally Posted by jh_f30

Hopefully it goes off without a hitch.

Remember to to open the fill plug before you drain all the fluid.

4 new quarts should help your cold shifting. You will be able to tell it is smoother at low speeds going into 2nd gear.

[QUiKSR20]

Quick question for guys which seems relevant to this thread, I have 105k miles and cannot find any info on "CARBON BUILDUP" for the N20. Has anyone had to walnut blast their motors yet? I know the N20 and N55 which are basically the same engines -2 cylinders are vastly better at resisting carbon buildup but with direct injection there's no way to fully avoid it.

Every once in a while my engine will stumble or have a hiccup and im thinking it maybe something to consider. If anyone has "FIRST HAND" knowledge or has done it id be curious to see the mileage and possibly pics at what it looked like, Theres not alot of info on here or the internet at all for the N20/N55.

[M Smurf]

Originally Posted by JoeyF30

Aren't you concerned of timing chain issues???

Approaching 100k myself. Flawless machine! Second owner from 58k.

I think if you spend enough time on this forum reading about the timing chain, you'd be misled in believing that it is more of a widespread issue than it really is. Keep in mind that this forum represents a very small amount of BMWs that exist. The timing chain/motor failure is statistically insignificant, IMO.

Having said the above, if it does happen to me, I'm inclined to replace the engine since I enjoy this car that much, and paid what I think is very little for it to own and maintain.

[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by JoeyF30

Aren't you concerned of timing chain issues???

Originally Posted by M Smurf

Approaching 100k myself. Flawless machine! Second owner from 58k.

I think if you spend enough time on this forum reading about the timing chain, you'd be misled in believing that it is more of a widespread issue than it really is. Keep in mind that this forum represents a very small amount of BMWs that exist. The timing chain/motor failure is statistically insignificant, IMO.

Having said the above, if it does happen to me, I'm inclined to replace the engine since I enjoy this car that much, and paid what I think is very little for it to own and maintain.

Exactly ^^^^^ We are only a small portion of the N20s in the world, The issue is a little blown out of proportion. I myself have the dreaded oil pump whine but zero chain issues.
The two from what I read are not related and you have a 50% chance of the whine which sounds bad but will not cause the engine to grenade, Once my car warms up the noise is completely gone. I have also heard that people have sucked it up, Replaced the pump just for the noise to come back.

I also bought the car used at the 50k mark or so and outside of maint has been flawless. Proper maintenance is the key with all cars, Just much more important with a German car.

[pcking]

Welp, it happened...

Broke 200K miles on Friday night.

The car has been nothing short of GREAT!

My 4th car to go to 200K and the one with the LEAST issues...

[Phoenix704]

Originally Posted by jh_f30

FINALLY ordered a transmission filter pan and fluid kit. 124k+ miles. Yes yes, I know...flame away. Slightly delayed and rough shift from 1st to 2nd first thing in the morning when everything is cold. Hoping to get it smoothed out a bit.

Expecting it to be delivered next Wednesday. Hopefully it goes off without a hitch. I'll be attempting it on jack stands. Also, I'm planning on doing a minimal drain and fill. Anticipating using 3-4 quarts of fresh fluid.

I'm at 25k and get that when cold. Delays coming out of first and is a bit hard, then butter after that.

[jh_f30]

Originally Posted by pcking

Welp, it happened...

Broke 200K miles on Friday night.

The car has been nothing short of GREAT!

My 4th car to go to 200K and the one with the LEAST issues...

Nice! I'm at 127K+. Hoping it'll last at least another 50K.

[M Smurf]

Originally Posted by pcking

Welp, it happened...

Broke 200K miles on Friday night.

The car has been nothing short of GREAT!

My 4th car to go to 200K and the one with the LEAST issues...

Good to hear! Original turbo?

[pcking]

Originally Posted by M Smurf

Good to hear! Original turbo?

I swapped it for the MHI Big Turbo @ 185K since it was starting to leak a little oil outside the housing.

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Exhaust/...-F22-228i.html

When we took it out and disassembled, it looked like just a minuscule leak with zero wobble so it probably had another 20K+ left in it.

Since I was doing the motor mounts (made the car SOOO much smoother) the turbo was an easy swap so I went for it. The car loves it.