[Ajs_435d]

Seems normal, a 20 mins drive around 15 miles sees mine full warmed - mind you thats motorway.

Its oil temp too not coolant by typically they warm up at about the same time.

[creepy coupe]

Originally Posted by Vroombimmer

Anyone got any bright ideas on how to get the engine to operating temp quicker. Car was great in the summer and gave decent mileage. Now the cold weather has set in, i can pretty much get most of the way to work on my 28mile commute and the engine just about reaches temp- and then the mpg suffers drastically.

Is there anything i can do to increase the speed it reaches optimum temp?
will driving it in eco, comfort or sport make any difference?
heating controls and heated seats on or off?

Are you confusing the temp gauge (which is for engine oil) will engine coolant?

My 435d never reach full oil temp in the winter unless I did 40 odd miles. It made no difference to the heating though

[APJ]

Originally Posted by Chelsea_Tractor

Access the hidden menu on BC and display coolant temp on your dash. This will give you more information. Don't use eco poo in the Winter.

Chelsea, where abouts in Bimmercode is it, i've had a quick gander but can't find it, cheers in advance.

[Hooded]

Originally Posted by Watsey

My car usually takes around 8 miles in these lower temperatures, 30-40mph roads, to reach full operating temperature on the oil temp gauge.

If you use the coolant temp display in the OBC hidden menu you can see when the thermostat opens : typically the coolant temp will increase reasonably quickly to 70-80C then either stop increasing, or may decrease, for a while when the stat opens and the coolant from the radiator starts to flow around the block. Once all coolant has reached the same temperature the reading will increase again, up to full operating temp. This seems to be 98-108C for my car, depending on how hard the engine is working.

This is pretty much spot on^

On my car once the oil temp has reached 100c on the gauge the coolant temp is usually averaging just above 100c too on the hidden menu.

I believe coolant temp needs to be above 75c for the DPF to regenerate.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Hooded

This is pretty much spot on^

On my car once the oil temp has reached 100c on the gauge the coolant temp is usually averaging just above 100c too on the hidden menu.

I believe coolant temp needs to be above 75c for the DPF to regenerate.

Yes, 75C is one of the DPF regeneration parameters.

I'm surprised some of you diesel guys are seeing 100C + for the coolant, (ECT) in normal running. That is a fully open thermostat (BMW data) giving full radiator cooling. That's similar to typical ECT regeneration temperatures. Very surprising in winter time, (suppose it depends on what we call winter temperatures), many will find they barely run ~90C ECT, the bottom end range of an opening thermostat, which is calibrated to 87C/88C opening temperature.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by APJ

Chelsea, where abouts in Bimmercode is it, i've had a quick gander but can't find it, cheers in advance.

Don't require any tools to view the hidden menus, simply open up with the correct procedure, using the 'unlock' code generated by adding the last four numbers of your VIN. For example, my numbers combine to make a code of 11.

If it is similar to the 5-series, you can view raw, oil and coolant temperatures on the same sub menu.

Makes it easy to see the way oil temperature lags behind coolant, and in what situations they level out for normal running.

As Watsey has said, you can also view/detect the exact temperature where the thermostat cracks open and the coolant circuit is introduced to cooling the engine block.

[APJ]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

Don't require any tools to view the hidden menus, simply open up with the correct procedure, using the 'unlock' code generated by adding the last four numbers of your VIN. For example, my numbers combine to make a code of 11.

If it is similar to the 5-series, you can view raw, oil and coolant temperatures on the same sub menu.

Makes it easy to see the way oil temperature lags behind coolant, and in what situations they level out for normal running.

As Watsey has said, you can also view/detect the exact temperature where the thermostat cracks open and the coolant circuit is introduced to cooling the engine block.

Excuse my ignorance or stupidity in most cases, whats this hidden area. I don't need a code to unlock, it just connects but If i press unlock it just says that i have already paid, is there any area to put in this code of your last four vin numbers added together ??

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by APJ

Excuse my ignorance or stupidity in most cases, whats this hidden area. I don't need a code to unlock, it just connects but If i press unlock it just says that i have already paid, is there any area to put in this code of your last four vin numbers added together ??

I'm simply talking of the car's built in hidden menu, opens in the dash display. Assessible from within the car, (no tools or software) using the odometer button and the VIN numbers 'unlock' code.

[agentorange]

Does accessing the hidden menu zero the trip meter too? I may not want to do that.

[APJ]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

I'm simply talking of the car's built in hidden menu, opens in the dash display. Assessible from within the car, (no tools or software) using the odometer button and the VIN numbers 'unlock' code.

I've got to say never heard about this, you live and learn, so what is it you have to press ?

[Soul_Glo]

Originally Posted by APJ

Chelsea, where abouts in Bimmercode is it, i've had a quick gander but can't find it, cheers in advance.

Add up the last 6 digits of your VIN. This is your unlock code. I think coolant temp is under menu 3. Have fun.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by agentorange

Does accessing the hidden menu zero the trip meter too? I may not want to do that.

No, not if you hold the button down until the menu comes up.

I ran a oil/ECT temperature check this morning on my 535i, the procedure I follow…

Hold odometer button down, while doing so press start button (no foot on brake), get initial wake up, ignition on only. Keep holding the odometer button down until the menu shows. Cycle to the unlock command. Press and hold until you get the code line. Then for me press 11 times (my code is 11), then press and hold until the hidden menu list appears. Cycle down until the temperature command shows. Press and hold until temperature window/display shows. Ready to start and get some real time readings.


There are YouTube vid's showing the procedure.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Chelsea_Tractor

Add up the last 6 digits of your VIN. This is your unlock code. I think coolant temp is under menu 3. Have fun.

Beat me to it for video .... BTW, you only need the last four digits.

[APJ]

For any others with an F36, mine was the last 5 numbers, (37 thats a lot of pushing) and it was option 11 Temperature.

Many thanks for your help HighlandPete and Chelsea_Tractor

[Hooded]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

Yes, 75C is one of the DPF regeneration parameters.

I'm surprised some of you diesel guys are seeing 100C + for the coolant, (ECT) in normal running. That is a fully open thermostat (BMW data) giving full radiator cooling. That's similar to typical ECT regeneration temperatures. Very surprising in winter time, (suppose it depends on what we call winter temperatures), many will find they barely run ~90C ECT, the bottom end range of an opening thermostat, which is calibrated to 87C/88C opening temperature.

Yes my old E90 320d used to generally sit at around 87-89c coolant temp on the hidden menu once fully warmed up. For some reason the F30 330d shows the coolant temp as generally just above 100c on the hidden menu once the oil temp reaches 100c on the gauge.

[xrefa]

Hi All,
I have a coupe 430xD model from 2018, 3.0L 190kW Diesel engine.
Since covid, I haven't been driving the car much, around ~10.000km in the past 12 months or so.

I noticed lately is that it takes really long time for the temperature gauge to come to a normal operating position. Thanks to all of the posts here, I did some investigation in the matter and here is the summary:
Driving condition:
1. outside temperature 14-15 degrees Celsius (not that cold)
2. driving in comfort mode with auto start/stop switched off
3. driving in the city, average speed ~42km/h and top speed up to 80km/h
4. no hard acceleration
5. summer sport tires Michelin 225/40r19 front and 255/35r19 rear

Results:
(see the attached table for details)

• It takes about 10 min for the gauge to start moving from the cold blue area.

• It took 19 min. for the Oil temp. to reach 100 degrees Celsius and 14.7km
  drive in the city with outside temperature around 14-15 degrees.

• The average fuel consumption is up from 7.3L/100km to 8.9L/100km.

Around the same time last year, same road (home to work) the Oil temp. reached 100 degrees after 4-5km drive and about 10min with average fuel consumption ~7.3L/100km

Car is under warranty still and BMW service staff member is assuring me that this is quite normal behavior.

What is your experience with 3.0L diesel engines?


Appreciate your feedback.

[Dcs100]

Just my penny's worth . I have a 335D and a twenty two mile drive to work.
I let the engine warm up for about ten to fifteen min's before setting off . The car reaches temp about ten mins after that.

[RickLS7]

"Letting an engine idle actually does more damage to the engine than starting and stopping. Running an engine at idle causes twice the wear on internal parts compared to driving at highway speeds. Idling will increase maintenance cost and shorten the life of the engine."

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Dcs100

Just my penny's worth . I have a 335D and a twenty two mile drive to work.
I let the engine warm up for about ten to fifteen min's before setting off . The car reaches temp about ten mins after that.

Besides the wear issues, a cold and idling diesel is generating lots of wet carbon matter. Not good news long term. Plus it is slower warming up than putting it to work immediately.

[335dX]

Originally Posted by Dcs100

Just my penny's worth . I have a 335D and a twenty two mile drive to work.
I let the engine warm up for about ten to fifteen min's before setting off . The car reaches temp about ten mins after that.

Hope that’s not on a public road as it’s illegal to leave a car idling.

Besides, it’s not doing a great deal for the environment is it, Greta wouldn’t be happy.

[PeakyJ]

Originally Posted by xrefa

Hi All,
I have a coupe 430xD model from 2018, 3.0L 190kW Diesel engine.
Since covid, I haven't been driving the car much, around ~10.000km in the past 12 months or so.

I noticed lately is that it takes really long time for the temperature gauge to come to a normal operating position. Thanks to all of the posts here, I did some investigation in the matter and here is the summary:
Driving condition:
1. outside temperature 14-15 degrees Celsius (not that cold)
2. driving in comfort mode with auto start/stop switched off
3. driving in the city, average speed ~42km/h and top speed up to 80km/h
4. no hard acceleration
5. summer sport tires Michelin 225/40r19 front and 255/35r19 rear

Results:
(see the attached table for details)

• It takes about 10 min for the gauge to start moving from the cold blue area.

• It took 19 min. for the Oil temp. to reach 100 degrees Celsius and 14.7km
  drive in the city with outside temperature around 14-15 degrees.

• The average fuel consumption is up from 7.3L/100km to 8.9L/100km.

Around the same time last year, same road (home to work) the Oil temp. reached 100 degrees after 4-5km drive and about 10min with average fuel consumption ~7.3L/100km

Car is under warranty still and BMW service staff member is assuring me that this is quite normal behavior.

What is your experience with 3.0L diesel engines?


Appreciate your feedback.

The oil temperature seems to heat up in roughly the same time and distance as my 330d does in those ambient temperatures.

Also, If your coolant temperature is staying at 90c+ once fully warmed up and not dropping back down when the engines on low load the thermostat is fine.

[xrefa]

My thought is that different models probably do have different cooling system implementation, position of radiators etc.
Anyone with 430d or 430xd to share their millage and time for the temperature to reach operating levels?