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      11-02-2013, 07:06 PM   #1
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BMW Advanced Battery Charging System with Alligator Clips

Anyone using the BMW Advanced Battery Charging System with their F30 during the winter? I checked with the BMW Accessories site and it doesn't mention this product as compatible.

I get this message when I add to cart:

"We are sorry, the part you have chosen does not fit the current vehicle model you have selected, please make necessary vehicle selection below:"

Thanks
Steven
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      11-03-2013, 05:33 PM   #2
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I think that's just a BMW branded Deltran Battery Tender. I have one and have been using it on my E92 for a few years now. I just used it on the new F30 this weekend with no problems. I don't know about the cigarette lighter option. That won't work on the E92 and probably not on the F30 either. Just hook it to the battery terminal under the hook and you're good to go. Keeping the batteries charged is very important with all the electronics in these cars.
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      11-03-2013, 06:46 PM   #3
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I bought one last year from my local BMW dealer and have used it weekly throughout the winter months on my F30. It has the alligator clips. There is a red positive post in the engine compartment and the black negative just hooks to a post in the engine compartment. The battery is of course in the rear of the car for weight distribution. Kept my battery in good shape throughout the winter. You don't want a dead battery in these cars - its a long way from jump starting a Ford Falcon in the sixties.
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      12-15-2013, 05:22 PM   #4
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Is this the one that works on the F30?

http://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-82...attery+charger

I get the same message saying it is incompatible with my vehicle when I enter 2013 BMW 328I xDrive sedan.

I will be going away for a few months and need to make some type of charger arrangement and this looks like the perfect solution (if it is compatible).
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      12-18-2013, 12:34 PM   #5
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I would get a battery charger which allows you to select the "AGM" option. The new F30's have AGM batteries for the start/stop system.

Most battery chargers are for wet batteries. The old BMW chargers are not for AGM batteries.
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      12-21-2013, 01:36 PM   #6
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I finally got around to buying the charger with alligator clips. My biggest concern was with F30 batteries being AGM, but reading on the Internet AGM batteries do not require some specialized charger.

I asked my SA and he said it's OK to get the BMW Advanced Charger.

The manual also states that it is perfectly safe to charge AGM batteries.

I imagine any car battery charger should suffice since the warranty information that came with has the Deltran logo.
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      12-23-2013, 08:19 AM   #7
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They say it's okay and in a way it is. While the charge rate is slower, you will see a decrease in the battery life. There IS a reason most new battery chargers have the options WET, AGM, and GEL.

Please read this: http://www.lesterelectrical.com/news.../2006feb01.PDF

Play it safe and buy a charger with a microprocessor and the option to select what type of battery you have. I have the BMW battery charger and is mostly collecting dust in my garage. Was not impressed by it when I monitored the voltage coming out of the unit.

Also found this:

Charging your AGM battery

Float or Stand By

This charging method is used for back-up applications. The battery is continuously on charge and consequently the recommended voltages are slightly lower than cyclic charging so as not to damage the battery. Float voltage for these batteries are about 2.25-2.3 volts/cell or 13.2-13.7 volts. These figures may vary.

Cyclic charging is used in applications where the battery is repeatedly discharged then charged. A higher charging voltage is used but should only be done from an alternator or a 2 or 3 stage automatic charger. NEVER leave your AGM battery on charge indefinitely since it will overcharge and destroy the battery. The voltage is about 2.4-2.5 volts/ cell, or up to 14.7 volts. However you will get longer service life if you use 14.1 – 14.2 volts.

Each battery suited to cyclic use will have a prescribed quantity of cycles to end of life and is dependent on the depth of discharge. Near the end-of-life standby capacity of the battery will reduce. When this reduction becomes persistently regular, this indication can also be used for the time of replacement.

Last edited by elester12; 12-23-2013 at 08:24 AM.. Reason: Added information
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      12-23-2013, 12:32 PM   #8
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My car came from the dealer with the BMW charger. It is made by Deltran http://batterytender.com/chargers/
And yes, it works for sealed batteries. I have a Deltran Tender Plus that I have been using on my motorcycles for the last ten years (sealed batteries) and it works perfectly. I store my bike for the winter and keep it charged.
You can find a Battery Tender Plus cheaper online then getting the BMW branded one.
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      10-25-2015, 09:58 PM   #9
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I know this is an old thread, but...

I was coding my car yesterday, didn't drive it today and got a message when I turned it back on (in 'standby'/ignition on) to code some more -- said that the battery was low/needed charging. I had a BMW Advanced Charging System (with alligator clips) lying around from the days of my E46. I attached it to the front of the car (under the hood) to the red terminal, and grounded the black with a chassis screw, but an hour later it still seemed like the battery was still low when I checked. I left it on for over 7 hours that way, and the light never turned from red to green. I know these are low amp chargers so it may just be charging REALLY slow, but is there any way it's not compatible with the F30?

I moved it from under the hood to the battery terminals themselves (in the trunk) to see if it'll help charge faster/better/etc, but any advice would be appreciated!
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      10-25-2015, 10:54 PM   #10
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My ctek charger says some dead batteries can take 24 hours or thereabouts to fully charge, and it probably charges at a higher rate than your older model. Although if your battery has issues (i.e. unable to take/hold a full charge) it's possible you might never get a green light. Or your charger might be incompatible.

I believe BMW advises not to charge directly to the battery itself. I think it can cause some issues with the car's charging algorithms. Also I understand the current from the underhood remote terminal is regulated/managed, so you don't want to bypass that power management.

If you're under warranty, I'd advise just calling BMW Assist for a tow and let the dealer take care of it.
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      10-25-2015, 11:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by int View Post
I know this is an old thread, but...

I was coding my car yesterday, didn't drive it today and got a message when I turned it back on (in 'standby'/ignition on) to code some more -- said that the battery was low/needed charging. I had a BMW Advanced Charging System (with alligator clips) lying around from the days of my E46. I attached it to the front of the car (under the hood) to the red terminal, and grounded the black with a chassis screw, but an hour later it still seemed like the battery was still low when I checked. I left it on for over 7 hours that way, and the light never turned from red to green. I know these are low amp chargers so it may just be charging REALLY slow, but is there any way it's not compatible with the F30?

I moved it from under the hood to the battery terminals themselves (in the trunk) to see if it'll help charge faster/better/etc, but any advice would be appreciated!
You gotta remember its a battery tender, not a battery charger.
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      10-26-2015, 04:47 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by int View Post
I know this is an old thread, but...

I was coding my car yesterday, didn't drive it today and got a message when I turned it back on (in 'standby'/ignition on) to code some more -- said that the battery was low/needed charging. I had a BMW Advanced Charging System (with alligator clips) lying around from the days of my E46. I attached it to the front of the car (under the hood) to the red terminal, and grounded the black with a chassis screw, but an hour later it still seemed like the battery was still low when I checked. I left it on for over 7 hours that way, and the light never turned from red to green. I know these are low amp chargers so it may just be charging REALLY slow, but is there any way it's not compatible with the F30?

I moved it from under the hood to the battery terminals themselves (in the trunk) to see if it'll help charge faster/better/etc, but any advice would be appreciated!
Quote:
Originally Posted by smithf32 View Post
You gotta remember its a battery tender, not a battery charger.
Those tiny little wall pack Battery Tenders will take DAYS to bring back a badly discharged battery.
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      10-26-2015, 07:09 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F32 N55 View Post
Those tiny little wall pack Battery Tenders will take DAYS to bring back a badly discharged battery.
The point is to use them to keep the battery from going dead in the first place. I have one of these, the 1.1amp version:
http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-G750-Ultr...attery+charger

It comes with alligator clips, but don't use them. Have a good mechanic (or DIY, as I did) attach a permanent connection from the supplied connector to the under the hood posts, adding extra wire and a pair of ring connectors. There are ring connectors supplied, but they're too small to fit the under hood posts. Wrap the wires with split loom:
http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Perfor...ords=wire+loom

Run the loomed wires out to the grille, using plastic ties for a clean installation. Have the connector run inside the grille, with just enough slack so you can pull the connector out to connect to the charger. When you're going to be parked for a few days, or if the temperature is going to be particularly cold overnight, plug in the charger. No need to open the hood, and if you have a private garage you can leave the charger hanging on a wall or placed on a shelf, always at the ready.

Last edited by Billfitz; 10-26-2015 at 11:10 AM..
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      10-26-2015, 10:06 AM   #14
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The F30 battery is 90 AH (amp hours). If your chager charges at 1A you're looking at 90 hours to go from 0 to 100%. Of course if your battery is at 0% a day after driving your car then most likely charging time is not what you should be worried about.
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      10-26-2015, 11:12 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefneil View Post
The F30 battery is 90 AH (amp hours). If your chager charges at 1A you're looking at 90 hours to go from 0 to 100%. Of course if your battery is at 0% a day after driving your car then most likely charging time is not what you should be worried about.
+1. The point of a trickle charger is that even when off the car is using current, and if left unused and/or in cold conditions for extended periods the battery will discharge. A trickle charger will supply enough current so that doesn't happen.
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      10-30-2015, 12:01 AM   #16
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I guess I misunderstood the use of this BMW "Charging System" -- thanks for the clarification, everyone!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
I have one of these, the 1.1amp version:
http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-G750-Ultr...attery+charger
I had a NOCO GENM1 Mini 4-Amp 1-Bank waterproof smart on-board battery charger permanently installed on my X5 because I wouldn't drive it from Monday to Friday (used to walk to work), but I just sold the car and the charger with it. Should have taken the NOCO off it! Will the G750 be good enough for my F30's battery (not for permanent install, but for charging while I code my car)? Or do I need something more powerful for this purpose?
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      10-30-2015, 07:05 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by int View Post
Will the G750 be good enough for my F30's battery (not for permanent install, but for charging while I code my car)?
It should be.
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      10-30-2015, 07:10 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefneil View Post
My ctek charger says some dead batteries can take 24 hours or thereabouts to fully charge, and it probably charges at a higher rate than your older model. Although if your battery has issues (i.e. unable to take/hold a full charge) it's possible you might never get a green light. Or your charger might be incompatible.

I believe BMW advises not to charge directly to the battery itself. I think it can cause some issues with the car's charging algorithms. Also I understand the current from the underhood remote terminal is regulated/managed, so you don't want to bypass that power management.

If you're under warranty, I'd advise just calling BMW Assist for a tow and let the dealer take care of it.

This is the most important statement here. Most don't realize this. Never charge the battery at the terminals on a contemporary BMW.
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      10-30-2015, 07:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by int View Post
I moved it from under the hood to the battery terminals themselves (in the trunk) to see if it'll help charge faster/better/etc, but any advice would be appreciated!
I bought my BMW Advanced charger in 2009 when I bought my first "d" (an E90).With my F30 I,too,attach the alligator clip directly to the battery and find that even after a 70 mile trip on the Interstate (at 70MPH) it takes about 14 hours to get solid green (meaning fully charged).
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      10-30-2015, 07:58 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BavarianFanatic
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefneil View Post
My ctek charger says some dead batteries can take 24 hours or thereabouts to fully charge, and it probably charges at a higher rate than your older model. Although if your battery has issues (i.e. unable to take/hold a full charge) it's possible you might never get a green light. Or your charger might be incompatible.

I believe BMW advises not to charge directly to the battery itself. I think it can cause some issues with the car's charging algorithms. Also I understand the current from the underhood remote terminal is regulated/managed, so you don't want to bypass that power management.

If you're under warranty, I'd advise just calling BMW Assist for a tow and let the dealer take care of it.

This is the most important statement here. Most don't realize this. Never charge the battery at the terminals on a contemporary BMW.
Not trying to contradict here, but I have had at least one BMW vehicle (2007 Z4, 2010 E93 and 2014 M235) since 2007.

I purchased CTEK smart battery tenders on all three (sold the Z4 last January) and wired the charging "pigtail" wire eyelets directly to the battery terminals, mounting them via the cable clamp tensioning stud/nuts. When not being driven, each car is connected to a tender, and I route the charging leads out by lying them on top of the weatherstrip and closing the trunk lid. The weatherstrip compresses easily, and there's sufficient "give" to not damage the wires.

I have never had any issues, nor have I ever had to replace a battery in any of these vehicles.

I've also communicated with Mike Milker (BMWCCA) about this method via email and he saw no issues with the setup.

To be clear, I would ONLY use an intelligent battery charging device (tender) this way. If I was charging the battery using a regular (higher amperage) charger, I'd use the jump starting points under the car hood and not connect directly to the battery, as long as it was connected inside the vehicle.

Maybe I'm just lucky, but after 8 years of success, with no issues, I feel pretty good about what I'm doing.

Just FYI...
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      10-30-2015, 08:16 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyewacket69 View Post
Not trying to contradict here, but I have had at least one BMW vehicle (2007 Z4, 2010 E93 and 2014 M235) since 2007.

I purchased CTEK smart battery tenders on all three (sold the Z4 last January) and wired the charging "pigtail" wire eyelets directly to the battery terminals, mounting them via the cable clamp tensioning stud/nuts. When not being driven, each car is connected to a tender, and I route the charging leads out by lying them on top of the weatherstrip and closing the trunk lid. The weatherstrip compresses easily, and there's sufficient "give" to not damage the wires.

I have never had any issues, nor have I ever had to replace a battery in any of these vehicles.

I've also communicated with Mike Milker (BMWCCA) about this method via email and he saw no issues with the setup.

To be clear, I would ONLY use an intelligent battery charging device (tender) this way. If I was charging the battery using a regular (higher amperage) charger, I'd use the jump starting points under the car hood and not connect directly to the battery, as long as it was connected inside the vehicle.

Maybe I'm just lucky, but after 8 years of success, with no issues, I feel pretty good about what I'm doing.

Just FYI...
Frankly, you've been lucky or your batteries never really dipped low enough to make a difference. Contemporary BMWs utilize an IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) mounted at the battery that monitors the charge/condition of the battery. The data is used to determine what the battery's discharge rate is, and subsequently, when it needs to be charged. (The alternator in the F30 does not continuously charge the battery.) When you connect a charger directly to the battery, there is no flow of current through the IBS, so the car doesn't recognize that you've fully charged the battery. The battery's health will now indicate incorrectly. If you do this enough times you can end up with a car that either determines that the battery is bad or it will never charge it fully while driving (it will think it's capacity is compromised).

All of this is avoided when you charge via the ports under the hood since the current will flow through the IBS. In short, the algorithms in play are insanely complex, so it's best to err on the side of caution. There is a plethora of info available online if you search for IBS.
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      10-30-2015, 08:32 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BavarianFanatic
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyewacket69 View Post
Not trying to contradict here, but I have had at least one BMW vehicle (2007 Z4, 2010 E93 and 2014 M235) since 2007.

I purchased CTEK smart battery tenders on all three (sold the Z4 last January) and wired the charging "pigtail" wire eyelets directly to the battery terminals, mounting them via the cable clamp tensioning stud/nuts. When not being driven, each car is connected to a tender, and I route the charging leads out by lying them on top of the weatherstrip and closing the trunk lid. The weatherstrip compresses easily, and there's sufficient "give" to not damage the wires.

I have never had any issues, nor have I ever had to replace a battery in any of these vehicles.

I've also communicated with Mike Milker (BMWCCA) about this method via email and he saw no issues with the setup.

To be clear, I would ONLY use an intelligent battery charging device (tender) this way. If I was charging the battery using a regular (higher amperage) charger, I'd use the jump starting points under the car hood and not connect directly to the battery, as long as it was connected inside the vehicle.

Maybe I'm just lucky, but after 8 years of success, with no issues, I feel pretty good about what I'm doing.

Just FYI...
Frankly, you've been lucky or your batteries never really dipped low enough to make a difference. Contemporary BMWs utilize an IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) mounted at the battery that monitors the charge/condition of the battery. The data is used to determine what the battery's discharge rate is, and subsequently, when it needs to be charged. (The alternator in the F30 does not continuously charge the battery.) When you connect a charger directly to the battery, there is no flow of current through the IBS, so the car doesn't recognize that you've fully charged the battery. The battery's health will now indicate incorrectly. If you do this enough times you can end up with a car that either determines that the battery is bad or it will never charge it fully while driving (it will think it's capacity is compromised).

All of this is avoided when you charge via the ports under the hood since the current will flow through the IBS. In short, the algorithms in play are insanely complex, so it's best to err on the side of caution. There is a plethora of info available online if you search for IBS.
I'm the first one to admit I'm not an electrical engineer, but as I understand the text below...

"The IBS is a mechatronic component for monitoring the battery condition. The IBS is secured and connected to the negative terminal of the battery. The power supply for the IBS is fed across a separate cable. For data transmission, the IBS is connected to the DME (Digital Engine Electronics) or DDE (Digital Diesel Electronics) via the BSD (bit-serial data interface).

The software in the PC-board of the IBS calculates State of Charge and State of Health of the battery and sends the information to the DME via the Bit Serial Data link. Off-load current measurement: When the vehicle is not in use, the IBS continuously monitors the data relevant to the battery indicators. The IBS is programmed to wake up every 14 seconds so that it can update the measured values with new measurements. The measuring time is approx. 50 milliseconds (ms). The measured data are entered in the IBS memory for monitoring the offload current. When the engine is restarted, the DME / DDE reads off the off-load current curve. In the event of a deviation from the definedoff-load current curve, an entry will be made in the DME / DDE fault memory."

...

As I read this, I get the impression that the IBS is monitoring the battery constantly, even in a ignition "off" situation.

Am I missing something?
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