[tturedraider]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

Also, insurance usually goes with trade(e.g. picks comparable trade sales from dealers), so that can drop appraised value to $13k(e.g.) dependent on mileage and conditions.

Insurance is OBLIGATED to pay full retail market value plus sales tax and related governmental fees. The OP could pretty easily make the case that his very low mileage, Luxury line 328i xDrive has a retail value somewhere between $18k - $20k.

[adilakif]

Originally Posted by tturedraider

Insurance is OBLIGATED to pay full retail market value plus sales tax and related governmental fees. The OP could pretty easily make the case that his very low mileage, Luxury line 328i xDrive has a retail value somewhere between $18k - $20k.

Using the same logic ($20k value) can I convince the insurance to repair the car? I don't want them to total it. I am seeing similar cars to mine between $18k - $21k on various used car sites.

Also how does my $2k deductible play into this? Would insurance consider the repair cost $9k instead of $11k?

[tturedraider]

Originally Posted by adilakif

Using the same logic ($20k value) can I convince the insurance to repair the car? I don't want them to total it. I am seeing similar cars to mine between $18k - $21k on various used car sites.

Also how does my $2k deductible play into this? Would insurance consider the repair cost $9k instead of $11k?

Yes, the more your car is worth the more likely they will repair it. To be honest, I don’t know if they consider the amount your deductible reduces their repair payout if they repair instead of totaling. That makes sense, but insurance companies don’t always make sense with their decisions.

If they were to total it you have the option to buy it back and have it repaired. The salvage value would likely be quite low, so you could very conceivably make money. The problem there is that your car would have a “branded”, rebuilt title and that would make it worth less money when you sell it (or trade it) even if all the damage is perfectly repaired and the car is in just as good condition as before the wreck.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by tturedraider

Insurance is OBLIGATED to pay full retail market value plus sales tax and related governmental fees. The OP could pretty easily make the case that his very low mileage, Luxury line 328i xDrive has a retail value somewhere between $18k - $20k.

NJ's statue is similar to CA too and requires settlement to include applicable taxes and other fees.

However the statue does not require full retail market value, but actual cost of a "substantially similar auto". or actual cash value(ACV).

From the the few totaled settlements from friends, the local insurers comp analysis (e.g. from DMV sales records) usually come in close to trade first, and any counter data points move the settlement somewhere between private and trade, but not anywhere close to dealer full retail.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by adilakif

Using the same logic ($20k value) can I convince the insurance to repair the car? I don't want them to total it. I am seeing similar cars to mine between $18k - $21k on various used car sites.

Also how does my $2k deductible play into this? Would insurance consider the repair cost $9k instead of $11k?

Yes the higher insurance's appraisal and lower salvage value, the less likely your car will be totaled.

The unfortunate(or fortunate dependent on your desired outcome) thing is salvage of F30 N20/N26 + ZF 8AT is relatively high right now, e.g. $6k+, so it depends what your insurance's comp analysis says the ACV would be, and total would need:

ACV - salvage < repair cost.

$2k deductible is subtracted from repair cost or any settlement alike, so it does not affect insurance decision one way or another(as shown in above equation).

As far $18k to $21k, your accident and repair likely will show up on Carfax and can affect resale value even if car is repaired/restored back to factory spec.

[rooosh798]

Currently going through the same process as the OP in New Jersey on a 2017 340i that was totaled bc the repair bill was over 75% of the vehicle's value. Based on that repair bill and the video, I think they might total the car because they might find more damage as a further more in-depth teardown is completed. I would think you hit the curb with some serious force bending a thick control arm like that. So even if the other parts look fine they could have taken a huge high force impact which could have compromised them.

As mentioned by others, in NJ if they total the car they will give you the determined value + sales tax + registration fee and then subtract out your deductible. I would start looking at comparable cars in the area and just get a list of the prices ready so that if it is totaled you can start the negotiating process. Knowing every single option on the car is also helpful so that it is accounted for when the valuation is made and negotiate hard. First valuation offers can be pretty low and you may have to provide them with listings from the area and other valuation data points so that they come to their senses somewhat and value the vehicle more accurately. That $2k deductible might be a killer though as that will get subtracted from the total payout. Use autotrader, carvana, truecar, cars.com etc to find similar vehicles.

If you have another car to drive around for the time being I don't think its the end of the world if they total it because the car market is insane right now and there is a chance you come out ahead on the payout just based on the prices at which market transactions are occurring currently for used cars.

[rooosh798]

Originally Posted by tturedraider

Yes, the more your car is worth the more likely they will repair it. To be honest, I don’t know if they consider the amount your deductible reduces their repair payout if they repair instead of totaling. That makes sense, but insurance companies don’t always make sense with their decisions.

If they were to total it you have the option to buy it back and have it repaired. The salvage value would likely be quite low, so you could very conceivably make money. The problem there is that your car would have a “branded”, rebuilt title and that would make it worth less money when you sell it (or trade it) even if all the damage is perfectly repaired and the car is in just as good condition as before the wreck.

Trying to get the car re-insured with a branded title, might also end up costing more.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by rooosh798

Trying to get the car re-insured with a branded title, might also end up costing more.

It depends on insurers, e.g. some local ones do not offer comprehensive nor collision on salvage titles(liability still available).

Also in CA salvaged titles require annual safety inspection@DMV too.

[rooosh798]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

It depends on insurers, e.g. some local ones do not offer comprehensive nor collision on salvage titles(liability still available).

Also in CA salvaged titles require annual safety inspection@DMV too.

I think NJ is similar in terms of having to be inspected every year. In short not worth the hassle and extra cost involved in my opinion for the OP to buy back the car if they do decide to total the vehicle.

[ashkanvafaee2]

Keep in mind that the car may not drive/feel the same even after repairs. For this reason, it may actually be better to have it totaled so you can buy another f30 (or even upgrade).

I know you're probably pretty attached to the car but having it totaled can actually be a good thing.

[rooosh798]

Originally Posted by ashkanvafaee2

Keep in mind that the car may not drive/feel the same even after repairs. For this reason, it may actually be better to have it totaled so you can buy another f30 (or even upgrade).

I know you're probably pretty attached to the car but having it totaled can actually be a good thing.

I know this feeling and its a very weird one. My 340i just got totaled but now I am probably going to end up making money on the car after the total loss payout which will go towards something newer and better AKA a M340i

[F30lolz]

Any updates on this OP?

[adilakif]

Originally Posted by F30lolz

Any updates on this OP?

No. Geico says they assigned an adjuster to my claim but I can't reach him. They say "Your estimate is scheduled.". I texted my service advisor at BMW this morning, he also didn't receive a call from Geico. But he says they should be there tomorrow latest.

In the mean time I am trying to find out what my car's real value is. These 2 cars are pretty close to mine (2013 xDrive Luxury 41kmiles):

2014 45K $21.5k:
https://www.carvana.com/vehicle/1918195

2014 GT 48K $22k:
https://www.carvana.com/vehicle/1977135

[F30lolz]

Originally Posted by adilakif

No. Geico says they assigned an adjuster to my claim but I can't reach him. They say "Your estimate is scheduled.". I texted my service advisor at BMW this morning, he also didn't receive a call from Geico. But he says they should be there tomorrow latest.

In the mean time I am trying to find out what my car's real value is. These 2 cars are pretty close to mine (2013 xDrive Luxury 41kmiles):

2014 45K $21.5k:
https://www.carvana.com/vehicle/1918195

2014 GT 48K $22k:
https://www.carvana.com/vehicle/1977135

Is the car at Ramsey BMW? Regardless, keep that info handy just in case it is totaled and you can have ammo and show them (Geico) that you should at least get $21k minus your $2k deductible. Maybe screen shot everything in case they get sold just to be safe. My brother in law just purchased a Sportline 2015 xDrive 328 for around $12k but it’s at Ramsey now on a 2 week wait for a throttle issue as they’re saying because of the floods, they’re backed up.

[heifetz17]

Insurance doesn't owe retail they owe market value. Retail and market value are two very different things. They owe what similar cars are selling for in the same market, not what a book says it should be worth. As stated salvage value plays a very large role in the repair decision. A high salvage value will total the car, and if there's only suspension damage and no body damage there's likely to be a pretty good salvage bid.

My best advice is to remove the car from the dealer and take it to a reputable independent mechanic. A steering gear, knuckles, tie rods, and control arm aren't 11k worth of damage, and insurance may not want to pay the elevated labor from a dealership anyway if it's not comparable to the market rate in your area.

[adilakif]

Originally Posted by heifetz17

Insurance doesn't owe retail they owe market value. Retail and market value are two very different things. They owe what similar cars are selling for in the same market, not what a book says it should be worth. As stated salvage value plays a very large role in the repair decision. A high salvage value will total the car, and if there's only suspension damage and no body damage there's likely to be a pretty good salvage bid.

My best advice is to remove the car from the dealer and take it to a reputable independent mechanic. A steering gear, knuckles, tie rods, and control arm aren't 11k worth of damage, and insurance may not want to pay the elevated labor from a dealership anyway if it's not comparable to the market rate in your area.

Can anyone recommend an independent shop in North Jersey? I only took the car to dealerships for oil changes. I did other easy maintenance myself. I don't know any BMW mechanic.

There is zero body damage. Just the parts I mentioned.

[heifetz17]

I plugged this into my estimating software for my own car, which is also a '13 328i xdrive. My total for steering gear, both knuckles, both outer tie rods, and right lower control arm, plus alignment and labor comes to $5385.05. If you have "sport steering" the steering gear is another $500. I don't have tax in Montana, so add that in depending on your tax rate.

Your dealer is taking you to the cleaners.

[rooosh798]

Originally Posted by adilakif

Can anyone recommend an independent shop in North Jersey? I only took the car to dealerships for oil changes. I did other easy maintenance myself. I don't know any BMW mechanic.

There is zero body damage. Just the parts I mentioned.

Have heard good reviews for Motorsport GmbH in Lyndhurst, NJ. They worked on my E46 when I had that a while ago.

Can also use Bimmershops to find other reputable Indy shops in the area.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by heifetz17

I plugged this into my estimating software for my own car, which is also a '13 328i xdrive. My total for steering gear, both knuckles, both outer tie rods, and right lower control arm, plus alignment and labor comes to $5385.05. If you have "sport steering" the steering gear is another $500. I don't have tax in Montana, so add that in depending on your tax rate.

Your dealer is taking you to the cleaners.

Yeah my rough guess in post#10 is $6k too including steering rack, and I think that is likely the first estimate from adjuster.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by adilakif

Can anyone recommend an independent shop in North Jersey? I only took the car to dealerships for oil changes. I did other easy maintenance myself. I don't know any BMW mechanic.

There is zero body damage. Just the parts I mentioned.

Has Geico written you a check already?

Try a google search of "NJ BMW specialist", locate those close to u, then carefully read the negative reviews first, then the positive reviews.

[adilakif]

Originally Posted by bavarianride

Has Geico written you a check already?

Try a google search of "NJ BMW specialist", locate those close to u, then carefully read the negative reviews first, then the positive reviews.

No. I am a little concerned. This is the 3rd day I reported the incident and I still didn't hear from Geico. In claim details they say everything is complete on my part. They assigned someone to my case. If he needs my help he'll call me. He didn't call the dealership also for appointment to see the car. So I have no new information.

I contacted a local shop. They are working on an estimate today. If Geico decides to total it because BMW wants to charge too much, hopefully this local shop's price will be low enough to convince the insurance.

If I find the parts on eBay and BMW parts stores they cost less than $2500. Steering rack brand new $2k. Rest of the parts if used very cheap. I don't know how the dealership is getting too $7700 just for the parts. It's almost like dealership wants the car to be totaled. I don't get it.

[bavarianride]

Originally Posted by adilakif

No. I am a little concerned. This is the 3rd day I reported the incident and I still didn't hear from Geico. In claim details they say everything is complete on my part. They assigned someone to my case. If he needs my help he'll call me. He didn't call the dealership also for appointment to see the car. So I have no new information.

I contacted a local shop. They are working on an estimate today. If Geico decides to total it because BMW wants to charge too much, hopefully this local shop's price will be low enough to convince the insurance.

If I find the parts on eBay and BMW parts stores they cost less than $2500. Steering rack brand new $2k. Rest of the parts if used very cheap. I don't know how the dealership is getting too $7700 just for the parts. It's almost like dealership wants the car to be totaled. I don't get it.

One strategy is to seek out insurance network shop that also does good work esp. on BMW's.

E.g. one CCRC(BMW's certified collision repair center) around here is actually insurance network shop too. You can enter your zip into bmwusa.com to find those CCRCs close to u.

In general SAs in network shops act directly as insurance adjusters, so their repair estimates are quickly approved. Finding a CCRC that is also part of your insurance's network would be ideal situation.

In your specific case, it is a judgement call to use an auto repair shop, or a body shop(e.g. CCRC and the like). E.g. if u are 100% sure that there is no other damage after teardown, then auto repair shop should be OK.

As far as pricing, dealer's $11k is per their high retail labor hours and marked up retail prices.

On the other hand, body shops that work with insurance have contracted labor rates that are considerably lower than dealer, and usually don't charge more than MSRP for genuine parts.

Obviously insurance is focused on reducing cost, and you would like to get best outcome, so there may be some work needed to reach the best compromise.