[wishbone]

I recently upgraded my stock F30 328i base model suspension that had 56K miles with a nice set of B14 coilovers (MFG # 47-264632) utilizing the provided spring set, no other suspension pieces were upgraded. They look great and the drop was noticeable with modest settings with about an inch on each corner. Went from 27.5" to 26.5" in the rear and 27" to 26" in the front. Everything was pretty level side to side with the above measurements.

Followed KIES' installation video really being careful to not let the rotors/ brake caliper/ CV joint hang or get pulled out. No force was applied once the new shocks/ springs were installed in the front or rear.

Once everything was reassembled have been driving the car for a bit and am noticing a very faint click on wheel turn at low speeds and sometimes with forces down on the front of the car (e.g., pulling out of a sloped driveway).

The noises disappear when the car is jacked back up and the wheel is turned in either direction, no small/ faint click on wheel turn. No loose bolts, everything was tightened/ torque to spec thorough.

A couple hypotheses that I wanted to test with everyone to diagnose:

- CV joint pulled out and now a spline is slipping? Not sure this is true since it's not clicking through a ton or at speed (have been out on highway and on ramps, etc. with no noticeable click noise)

- drop is impacting something in the stock suspension and straining it. Not sure on this either as believable since tons of others have done this with no problems. Everything seems tight but not strained.

- some bushing is now bad, creating the faint click. Plausible but how to diagnose

- Front stabilizer swing support moved? Since this is removed one at a time could it have shifted making one side potentially shorter/ longer?

- Other?

[wishbone]

alt ideas ?

[alohasurftoad]

did you change the strutmounts aka top hats? 56k is relatively low mileage but i would have got new strutmounts and any other replaceable rubber bits since everything was going to be taken apart, anyway. there is also a thin piece of felt between the strutmount and body that shouldn't be overlooked.

my guesses are...the bearing within the strutmount, contact point between the spring and strutmount, or contact point between the strutmount and body.

if you google or youtube search, coilover clunk/click/creak you'll find numerous possibilities and solutions.

many coilover swaps seem to have noises of some sort, so you may have to just live with it.
.

[_ObiJon]

I second alohasurftoad's recommendation.

My car was on Dinan springs and OEM shocks. Upgraded to bilstein shocks and the removal/re-install of the top hat "upset" the bearing (it was no longer in the orientation it was for the last 80k miles). Didnt inspect them when they were off - my fault. Had a clicking noise on the first test drive (low speed compression and turns).

Ordered new top hats, dust boots/spring isolators and lower spring isolators from FCP Euro. Tore it all apart the very next weekend.

After I took the old top hats out, the play in the bearing was extremely noticeable, and honestly not sure how I didn't catch it the first time and obviously would have saved me a ton of time.

Edit: I could get the bearing to click/jump with the wheel off and articulating the knuckle left/right.

[arekuf3x]

Most likely old top strut mount bearings are done, it’s like $60 part, easy to swap without taking out the whole strut. I had similar problem with my b14 setup, replaced strut mount, no clicking. It could also be coil binding, you can get coilover spring thrust bearings and washer kit 2.5” to fix that.

[wishbone]

Hi Both, thank you and great thoughts. I didn't replace the top hats (i did replace the felt gaskets) but does sound like a relatively easy solution.

When I tear it apart again, might do some of the other arms/ bushing.

[wishbone]

Originally Posted by alohasurftoad

did you change the strutmounts aka top hats? 56k is relatively low mileage but i would have got new strutmounts and any other replaceable rubber bits since everything was going to be taken apart, anyway. there is also a thin piece of felt between the strutmount and body that shouldn't be overlooked.

my guesses are...the bearing within the strutmount, contact point between the spring and strutmount, or contact point between the strutmount and body.

if you google or youtube search, coilover clunk/click/creak you'll find numerous possibilities and solutions.

many coilover swaps seem to have noises of some sort, so you may have to just live with it.
.

Well folks, for those who were anxiously awaiting the outcome, it took me a while to get some parts, put the car up, and go back to diagnosing the problem.

Turns out it was the driver side strut mount bearing. I replaced with OEM Meyle top hat and new bearing (PN# 31306880438), new m10 bolts (PN# 31306863134), and reinstalled and the knock is gone.

In addition to those, while i had the car up, i replaced the upper control arms/ thrust arms with VAC motorsport mono balls (VAC Website), and a wiechers sport racingline aluminum strut brace (Kies Website).

With the new b14s, VAC monoball UCAs, and the strut brace the car is refreshing to drive and much more aggressive than the previous base model stock suspension.

I am also the proud new owner of the following tools as a result of this install:
- 8MILELAKE Macpherson Strut Spring Compressor Kit
- 2 x ESCO 3 Ton Performance Jack Stands (had two already)
- AMM 19-Piece 3/8 Inch Drive Extra Long Allen Hex Bit Socket Set
- Cal-Van Tools 104-03 Finger Socket Drivers
- GEARWRENCH 2 Pc 1/2" Drive Breaker Bar Set
- GEARWRENCH 23 Pc. 3/8" Drive 6 Pt. Pass-Thru Mechanics Tool Set
- GEARWRENCH 21mm 4 Degree Swing Arch 12 Point Ratcheting Combination Wrench
- Dianrui 4PCS Sliver Socket Adapter Set,1/4" x 3/8", 3/8" x 1/4", 3/8" x 1/2", 1/2" x 3/8" Square Ratchet Socket Adapter
- GEARWRENCH 1/2" Drive Micrometer Torque Wrench 30-250 ft/lbs
- Milwaukee 1/2" High Torque Impact Wrench
- AGA Wheel Lock Removal Tool
- 5lb slide hammer with 3/8" adapter

Happy to chat through any of my experience with the tools, too.

Thank you alohasurftoad _ObiJon and arekuf3x

[_ObiJon]

Great news! And welcome to the tool collectors club, aka BMW home garage mechanic. But hey, at least I have a 24mm impact socket, just in case!

[wishbone]

As a second follow-up I ended up doing the passenger side strut mount top hat (and bearing), too. Preventative and figured it wouldn't hurt. Since I was doing that and with the car up also decided after some reading to do the sway bar end links . I went with Meyle HDs (PN# 31306792211) and did both sides. The stock ones were shot, the bushings hung and the seal was starting to deteriorate, although no holes. I would assume these were stock from 2014 at 58k miles.

The Meyle HDs were the same length as the stock ones, so easy fitament.

View post on imgur.com

The car now handles incredibly well and really feels refreshed. I may do the rear sway bar end links, too for similar reasons.

Thank you again all!

Other new tools in the armament:
ICON High Torque T-Handle TORX Key Set
ICON High Torque T-Handle Hex Key Set
Schwaben Shock And Strut Removal Set
BGS 2243 | Socket Set Hexagon | 6.3 mm (1/4") / 10 mm (3/8") / 12.5 mm (1/2") Drive | 192 pcs