[Noelified]

Here is a power button I installed in the center console to power toggle my BM3 OBD Agent. This button also makes it easy for me because I have a crApple iPhone and sometimes have to switch the OBD agent off to mess with hotspot then turn agent back on. This is much easier than unplugging and plugging in a USB cable. It also looks factory. I liked this location because if I ever want to go back to original factory its a separate and cheap panel to replace.



Amazon parts list:

Boat Switch Button There are cheaper ones and illuminated ones, but you get the idea.


Fused USB port. This one only has one USB port, there are some with two that I may switch out for. The convenient part about this, is that I can just get a different SAE connected USB port and the tapped wiring stays in place.


Wire taps


Optional Insulated Connectors


OBD cable


90° USB Power cable. 3ft would work I got 4ft.


Install Process:

After removing and disconnecting the connected drive USB/Audio Panel,
mark a piece of paper and double tape on the back of panel. I drilled small 1/16" holes in all four corners then along the edges before cutting with an exacto. Take your time and be careful. Use a brand new blade


Shave edges until button snaps in tight.


Open back panel on center console where rear passenger has 12v port. There are no screws just pull it back and work all the way around until it comes lose. Disconnect all cable connections for room to work. Unplug the connector from 12v port (circled in green). Use two female wire taps to tap positive (Red/Yellow) and negative (brown) wires. Cut the bare ends of the amazon USB fused USB port and install the male ends and secure to the female ends. The extra wire and fuse can be easily tucked into the area labelled GAP in the photo. Then put the panel all back together.


Fish the two wires up through the button hole you cut out and wire to button. I used a button that toggles both negative and positive. I didn't have female insulated connectors as listed in the parts above so I soldered each wire to the switch. It's probably easier to crimp on the connectors. I then used automotive cloth wire harness tape to secure it all. One wrap is coming from the back wire taps and the other goes down to the SAE end of the USB port.


Drop the panel under your steering wheel. There are three clips and two nuts holing it in place. I have an auto so the pocket where the clutch pedal would be is a perfect fit for BM3 agent. You can mount anywhere under here though. Ironically, the slot in the factory foam where the clutch would pass through is access to the microSD without removing the panel. Although, the agent software is upgrade able without removing it. But in the event you want to remove the card it can be reached without removing panel. NOTE: The foam is not an easy surface to stick to, I used an aggressive double sided tape.



You can see where I routed and taped the USB power cable to the panel around the vent holes then to the USB power port.


It's hard to see in the photo. I taped the BM3 OBD cable to the OBD extension cable then tucked and foam taped the assembly as seen in the photo (green outline representing BM3 OBD cable). I first went with a ribbon style OBD cable from Amazon but that failed I think I kinked the cable too much, so I went with a more robust cable version.


This is the pass through cable I first wanted to try but only the passthrough worked after installing it. Either I got a bad one or I bent the ribbon cable too much and killed it.


Install the panel back and there is plenty of room for the OBD extension cable to fit between the left panel and panel you just reinstalled. This is also easy to remove and plug in OBD tools when needed.


Lastly connect and tuck the USB power cable and USB cable up into the center console, there is plenty of room.

This wire easily tucks up in the center console for a complete hide.

UPDATE: I designed and 3D printed a charger/holder for my iPhone.




Hope this helps and gives some ideas.

[S3RIES28]

Such a professional and clean install. Good job my friend! I need this when spring comes around

[Noelified]

Originally Posted by S3RIES28

Such a professional and clean install. Good job my friend! I need this when spring comes around

Thanks. Yes, let's put it on your spring "to-do" list

[Insane435]

nice build!

[stroker15]

Awesome instructions, thanks. It took me a while to figure out how that 4 pin switch works but I get it now. It connects and disconnects both positive and ground.

I was thinking about going with a round switch so that I just have to drill a big hole, instead of trying to cut with an exacto knife.

I'm thinking about something like this, I like this one because it includes the wiring diagram for the switch. Something like this would only switch the positive lead though. I'm thinking that shouldn't be a problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Gadgeter-Posi...gateway&sr=8-4

[stroker15]

I found this switch that I really like, but it's only rated at 5 amps. The raspberry pi pulls 2.5 amps. Will this work or will I melt it?

https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Latc...ateway&sr=8-36

[stroker15]

Originally Posted by stroker15

I found this switch that I really like, but it's only rated at 5 amps. The raspberry pi pulls 2.5 amps. Will this work or will I melt it?

https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Latc...ateway&sr=8-36

Never mind, I'm sure the switch will be fine, since the USB port can only put out 3.1 amps and the Raspberry PI will only pull 2.5 amps max. I found a set of Unibits and I could easily drill a 3/4" hole for the round switch. I know I'd butcher it if I tried to cut a rectangle.

I'm thinking about mounting the box under the trim by my hand brake since my Enet cable is about 7 feet and I'll be using a 1 foot extension. I could probably hide the box anywhere with all the cable I'll have. We will see. Thanks for this.

I'm just wondering if I really need the switch, since I have an Android Note 9. I haven't seen any complaints about the Android phones.

[stroker15]

It seems the USB port is no longer available for sale on Amazon. It was removed from my cart and the page no longer exists. I found an alternative by Battery Tender.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

AND

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

The downside is it's only rated for 2.1 amps. If you search for Motorcycle USB you'll find a lot of options. But most if not all of them are rated for 2.1 amps, and a lot of them are dual USB port so they are bigger and harder to hide.

For the Battery Tender one, the power cable is 2 feet long. But they also sell a quick connect extension which would allow you to put it anywhere.

I'm just not sure if 2.1 amps will be enough for the Raspberry Pi. The power port on the PI can handle 2.5 amps. Ok, I just checked and the max power the PI uses is 1 amp, so it's all good.

https://www.raspberrypi.org/document...ower/README.md

[Noelified]

Originally Posted by stroker15

It seems the USB port is no longer available for sale on Amazon. It was removed from my cart and the page no longer exists. I found an alternative by Battery Tender.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0DER&psc=1

AND

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0DER&psc=1

The downside is it's only rated for 2.1 amps. If you search for Motorcycle USB you'll find a lot of options. But most if not all of them are rated for 2.1 amps, and a lot of them are dual USB port so they are bigger and harder to hide.

For the Battery Tender one, the power cable is 2 feet long. But they also sell a quick connect extension which would allow you to put it anywhere.

I'm just not sure if 2.1 amps will be enough for the Raspberry Pi. The power port on the PI can handle 2.5 amps. Ok, I just checked and the max power the PI uses is 1 amp, so it's all good.

https://www.raspberrypi.org/document...ower/README.md

Sorry haven't been on in a while. Super busy at work and all. Yeah the round buttons would be easier to drill. You also make a good point, is it worth a button if the droid phones are much more stable. You could go buttonless for a while and always add it later. I'll look for the USB connector I got. I ended going with a dual USB because I also added my iPhone lighting to it.

[Noelified]

Originally Posted by stroker15

It seems the USB port is no longer available for sale on Amazon. It was removed from my cart and the page no longer exists. I found an alternative by Battery Tender.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

AND

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

The downside is it's only rated for 2.1 amps. If you search for Motorcycle USB you'll find a lot of options. But most if not all of them are rated for 2.1 amps, and a lot of them are dual USB port so they are bigger and harder to hide.

For the Battery Tender one, the power cable is 2 feet long. But they also sell a quick connect extension which would allow you to put it anywhere.

I'm just not sure if 2.1 amps will be enough for the Raspberry Pi. The power port on the PI can handle 2.5 amps. Ok, I just checked and the max power the PI uses is 1 amp, so it's all good.

https://www.raspberrypi.org/document...ower/README.md

Looks like this one is still available.
OR
Here is a Dual 2.4A USB setup that looks good on Amazon

[stroker15]

Originally Posted by Noelified

Looks like this one is still available.
OR
Here is a Dual 2.4A USB setup that looks good on Amazon

Thanks, that's weird the original one was gone when I looked, the seller must have reposted it or something. I like the second dual USB one you posted. For now I got my Agent plugged into the power port behind the armrest with a cigarette lighter to usb adapter, I'll hardwire it later.

[stroker15]

Originally Posted by Noelified

Sorry haven't been on in a while. Super busy at work and all. Yeah the round buttons would be easier to drill. You also make a good point, is it worth a button if the droid phones are much more stable. You could go buttonless for a while and always add it later. I'll look for the USB connector I got. I ended going with a dual USB because I also added my iPhone lighting to it.

Thanks for the reply. I did notice that when I shut off the car and turn it back on that the agent doesn't reconnect. So I have to unplug and plug it back in. So yeah, if all the wires are hidden then the switch is necessary.

I could add in my Amazon Echo and go dual like you. With the wire taps, and unibits and other things I'd need to hard wire it, that started adding up in cost so I'll do it later. Right now I'm waiting for my downpipe and intercooler to arrive. :-)

I don't think I ever would have bought a downpipe, intercooler, and charge pipes if I hadn't bought the BM3. But after feeling the huge performance increase on my stock car, I just had to find a way to try Stage 2. Beast mode coming next week!

[stroker15]

Noelified. that charger holder is awesome! That's amazing you designed and printed that. Really nice. I'd love one but I use a magnetic CD mount. I use my phone for navigation and I like having it higher so it's easier for me to see.

[stroker15]

I tried putting a 90 degree on the power adapter and a low profile power adapter to make it look better. Still don't look great.

I'll try and see if I can run the wire on the floorboard behind the dash and to the power port under the glove box.

If I buy the taps, Unibit set, usb plug, and switch, I'm looking at $65. For stuff I may only use once. The taps and drill bits are $20 each. Or I could find cheaper bits and taps.

I bet I could find the parts cheaper at home depot, I'll give that a shot.

I really thought it would look better with the L adapter, but nope, fail.

[Noelified]

Originally Posted by stroker15

I tried putting a 90 degree on the power adapter and a low profile power adapter to make it look better. Still don't look great.

I'll try and see if I can run the wire on the floorboard behind the dash and to the power port under the glove box.

If I buy the taps, Unibit set, usb plug, and switch, I'm looking at $65. For stuff I may only use once. The taps and drill bits are $20 each. Or I could find cheaper bits and taps.

I could send you some of my taps just PM me. I have the whole kit and will never need them all

Wait did you know you have a 12 port under passenger side to the left of glove box? Plug your 90 there and it would be nearly invisible. A lot of people don't even know it's there.

[stroker15]

Originally Posted by Noelified

I could send you some of my taps just PM me. I have the whole kit and will never need them all

Wait did you know you have a 12 port under passenger side to the left of glove box? Plug your 90 there and it would be nearly invisible. A lot of people don't even know it's there.

Thanks Bro, I was just in a rush to hide the wire because it was bugging me. I can eventually buy the taps and bits when I get paid again.

I found that there is no easy or obvious way to run the wire behind the center console down by the brake and throttle pedal. I'm sure it's possible but everything is pretty much sealed off back there.

I happed to have a 6 foot USB extension cable lying around. So I just ran it totally around the whole center console to that USB outlet under the glove box. So where I had my wire connected to the power port behind the armrest, I just attached the extension and continued running the wire all the way around that center armrest console to the power port. I also have my front dash cam plugged into that outlet. My rear dash cam is plugged into the power outlet in the trunk. I always wondered why they'd put a cigarette lighter in the trunk.

I could have taken a shorter route with the wire and lifted the shift boot and center brake lever trim, but since my extension was so long it was way easier to just run it all the way around and push it up under the plastic.

Anyway, the ugly wire isn't bugging me now and I can tap it in later when I need a project.

Thanks again.

[Insane435]

Just getting around to this. I want to do a circular switch a that will be much easier. Is the 3 prong switch ok or do i need the 4 prong?

Also i don't fully understand the wiring. Do you tap into those wires and run them to switch and then run 2 more out to SAE? in the pic is looks like the wires from the SAE are tapped into the console. Confused!!

[jwick10001bmw]

Originally Posted by Insane435

Just getting around to this. I want to do a circular switch a that will be much easier. Is the 3 prong switch ok or do i need the 4 prong?

Also i don't fully understand the wiring. Do you tap into those wires and run them to switch and then run 2 more out to SAE? in the pic is looks like the wires from the SAE are tapped into the console. Confused!!

Thanks for the great write-up. I, too, am unclear about the wiring to and from the switch. Any chance you would kindly clarify that part?

[Noelified]

Originally Posted by yabadaba10001

Thanks for the great write-up. I, too, am unclear about the wiring to and from the switch. Any chance you would kindly clarify that part?

Ok. I'll draw a diagram and add to this thread. Basically I ran the jumped wires from the 12v connector in the photo (+) with fuse to back left prong on switch and (-) jumped wire to right back prong on switch. Then front right prong of switch is wired to red cable on the USB connector and the front left prong is wired to the black cable on the USB connector. Think of the switch as a doorway (gate) that breaks or connects the wires from power to device.

The alternate two prong switch you just break the red cable from back prong to front prong on the switch and run the black cable straight from the jump to the USB connector.

[Insane435]

I ended up getting this to work with a 3 prong circular switch. Much easier to drill a hole out for ht circular switch.

The agent has been working great.