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      01-15-2021, 02:39 AM   #243
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My old 2013 BMW 335ix came with a defective transfer from US with 62k miles...I bought an used transfer and runs over 20k miles never had a transfer failure ATC35L in my hand.
Over 500 1/4 mile passes from 13 to 10 sec and over 130mph trap speed.
Oil Transfer change every 6 months with bmw oil. ( Is not lifetime oil for sure )
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      01-15-2021, 05:27 PM   #244
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      01-24-2021, 07:16 PM   #245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick_FThirty View Post
I wanted to mention that my car has a completely square setup with one of BMWs base rims. My TC failed under the previous owner at 23k km. So far so good though at 77k km. Knock on wood lol
Mine’s square, 72k.
they failed it due excessive rust on the output (think PO surfed and snowboarded)
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      02-02-2021, 06:40 PM   #246
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Additional data point(s), added to the spreadsheet.
I've had two failures on my 2014 328d xDrive Wagon, one at 48k miles and one at 98k miles. Square setup the entire time: OEM 225/45R18 for all but ~2k miles, where I had 255/40/18 square RE-71R on aftermarket square Apex 18" wheels.
Both TCs replaced under warranty. Of note, the car had a ChipWerke piggyback tuning module on it for the majority of those miles and was driven hard, including on gravel, dirt, and snow.
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      02-02-2021, 07:55 PM   #247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselTouring View Post
Additional data point(s), added to the spreadsheet.
I've had two failures on my 2014 328d xDrive Wagon, one at 48k miles and one at 98k miles. Square setup the entire time: OEM 225/45R18 for all but ~2k miles, where I had 255/40/18 square RE-71R on aftermarket square Apex 18" wheels.
Both TCs replaced under warranty. Of note, the car had a ChipWerke piggyback tuning module on it for the majority of those miles and was driven hard, including on gravel, dirt, and snow.
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1579087

See this thread. Cause has been discovered, and the remedy from BMW is to use the rubber giubo instead of the aluminum one to reduce vibrations into the output flange.
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      02-07-2021, 06:00 PM   #248
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This may be a ridiculous question but is it feasible to convert the car to RWD by removing the transfer case and xDrive components, using a drive shaft from a RWD equivalent model, and running xDelete to solve the coding?

I have a 2014 435ix and reading all of this made me nervous... I'm sitting at 47kmiles and I just want to know if there would be other alternatives out there other than buying a new transfer case or repairing one, if mine ever acts up. Because preserving the xDrive isn't as important to me and I would be okay with saving some $$$ if it meant just using a drive shaft and converting to RWD.

Sorry to those who had to deal with this issue, seems incredibly unlucky.
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      02-08-2021, 08:06 AM   #249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onyourheadtop View Post
This may be a ridiculous question but is it feasible to convert the car to RWD by removing the transfer case and xDrive components, using a drive shaft from a RWD equivalent model, and running xDelete to solve the coding?

I have a 2014 435ix and reading all of this made me nervous... I'm sitting at 47kmiles and I just want to know if there would be other alternatives out there other than buying a new transfer case or repairing one, if mine ever acts up. Because preserving the xDrive isn't as important to me and I would be okay with saving some $$$ if it meant just using a drive shaft and converting to RWD.

Sorry to those who had to deal with this issue, seems incredibly unlucky.
The output flange wear is an issue for the 4-cyl diesel and 4-cyl gas mostly, when equipped with the early aluminum giubo. Look at the LCI cars that come with the rubber giubo, they've aged plenty and they're not being reported quite like the pre-LCI 4 cyl.
Most of the failures are caused by engine vibration hammering on the output flange.

The transfer case on the 6 cylinders are way less affected by the output flange issue, and you'd be much better off with changing the flex disk (giubo) to the updated rubber variant.

Changing to rwd simply by removing the shaft doesn't actually 'fix' anything, since the transfer case connects the transmission to the driveshaft.
You'd have to replace the transmission to the rwd variant, remove the front differential and change the front hubs too if you want a complete conversion.

Deleting xdrive function does is not protective and it does not increase power or benefit much of anything.
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      02-08-2021, 01:24 PM   #250
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I believe some compromised transfer cases suffer from something other than worn flanges.
Mine was doing the symbolic shudder under acceleration but it wasn't the flange slipping. When running in RWD only the symptoms were completely gone, ruling out the rear flange. I never got to the bottom of it but I'm guessing some of us are experiencing clutchpack (within the TC) slippage.
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      02-08-2021, 04:02 PM   #251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opinion914 View Post
I believe some compromised transfer cases suffer from something other than worn flanges.
Mine was doing the symbolic shudder under acceleration but it wasn't the flange slipping. When running in RWD only the symptoms were completely gone, ruling out the rear flange. I never got to the bottom of it but I'm guessing some of us are experiencing clutchpack (within the TC) slippage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by opinion914 View Post
I believe some compromised transfer cases suffer from something other than worn flanges.
Mine was doing the symbolic shudder under acceleration but it wasn't the flange slipping. When running in RWD only the symptoms were completely gone, ruling out the rear flange. I never got to the bottom of it but I'm guessing some of us are experiencing clutchpack (within the TC) slippage.
I one hundred percent agree because as soon as I switch my car to rwd using xdrive the slight jerking at 75% throttle goes away. Although I'm not quite sure that it is a t case problem. Might be tires.
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      04-14-2021, 11:46 AM   #252
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Firstly please excuse my lack of technical knowledge. I think this thread is relevant to me so would like to post my story and ask a couple of questions.

2013 3 Series petrol M Sport xdrive, purchased brand new and I am the only one to have ever driven it. I love my car and treat it extremely well. It is driven gently and moderately, mostly long distance on motorways. I have done 48,000 miles in it.

Immediately after a previous service (to replace a wheel bearing and the sensor that does all the electronic stuff) I noticed a clunking nose occasionally happening underneath the accelerator area. It didnt seem to impact the actual car too much but pulling away from a standing start at roundabouts was the time I noticed it the most. I did notice it sometimes at higher speeds as well. I could even "feel" the clunk through the accelerator. I took it in to be looked at by BMW and have received the following line in the email I got back this afternoon

"Clunking noise from VTG Internal fault. Requires VTG"

This is priced at a staggering Ł4,200. Is this the fault a lot of people in this thread are reporting? They changed two of the tyres in January and left the other two the same could that have anything to do with it?

Thank you in advance for any replies.
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      05-27-2021, 02:26 PM   #253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fpladdict View Post
Firstly please excuse my lack of technical knowledge. I think this thread is relevant to me so would like to post my story and ask a couple of questions.

2013 3 Series petrol M Sport xdrive, purchased brand new and I am the only one to have ever driven it. I love my car and treat it extremely well. It is driven gently and moderately, mostly long distance on motorways. I have done 48,000 miles in it.

Immediately after a previous service (to replace a wheel bearing and the sensor that does all the electronic stuff) I noticed a clunking nose occasionally happening underneath the accelerator area. It didnt seem to impact the actual car too much but pulling away from a standing start at roundabouts was the time I noticed it the most. I did notice it sometimes at higher speeds as well. I could even "feel" the clunk through the accelerator. I took it in to be looked at by BMW and have received the following line in the email I got back this afternoon

"Clunking noise from VTG Internal fault. Requires VTG"

This is priced at a staggering Ł4,200. Is this the fault a lot of people in this thread are reporting? They changed two of the tyres in January and left the other two the same could that have anything to do with it?

Thank you in advance for any replies.
yes turning and accelerating, either transmission or transfer case. Just had mine replaced, and it may have resolved some of the issues- sure enough transmissions pasty oil despite no issue and oil change at 105,000 kms, 5000 kms ago... Am at 3800 CAD spent, a used TC installed, same issues...
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      08-05-2021, 04:56 PM   #254
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i think they were underfilling them from the factory. i just did my fluid service at 59k, had some binding and t case overheating issues, guess how much of that nasty fluid i was able to pull? maybe .35 quarts. thing is supposed to hold about .7 quarts. nonetheless, got that new DTF1 in there (with a little anti-friction additive, i like to live dangerously)
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      08-05-2021, 05:27 PM   #255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryreid90 View Post
i think they were underfilling them from the factory. i just did my fluid service at 59k, had some binding and t case overheating issues, guess how much of that nasty fluid i was able to pull? maybe .35 quarts. thing is supposed to hold about .7 quarts. nonetheless, got that new DTF1 in there (with a little anti-friction additive, i like to live dangerously)
You cannot pull it out with vacuum extraction. It needs to be removed and flipped upside-down to get all the fluid out.

That quantity is normal for vacuum extraction.


Anti friction additive in a place where there are clutch plates swimming in fluid that need friction?
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      08-05-2021, 05:31 PM   #256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by perryreid90 View Post
i think they were underfilling them from the factory. i just did my fluid service at 59k, had some binding and t case overheating issues, guess how much of that nasty fluid i was able to pull? maybe .35 quarts. thing is supposed to hold about .7 quarts. nonetheless, got that new DTF1 in there (with a little anti-friction additive, i like to live dangerously)
You cannot pull it out with vacuum extraction. It needs to be removed and flipped upside-down to get all the fluid out.

That quantity is normal for vacuum extraction.
i tilted the car back to the rear, as i had it on the alignment rack with individual axle lift capability, i got every drop of fluid out of that thing, except
for what was retained in the clutch pack/gears
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      08-05-2021, 05:38 PM   #257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryreid90 View Post
i tilted the car back to the rear, as i had it on the alignment rack with individual axle lift capability, i got every drop of fluid out of that thing, except
for what was retained in the clutch pack/gears
You cannot get everything out with vacuum extraction. You cannot reach the bottom of the 'well' with the vacuum tube.

This is the only way to get all the fluid out:
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      08-05-2021, 05:45 PM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by perryreid90 View Post
i tilted the car back to the rear, as i had it on the alignment rack with individual axle lift capability, i got every drop of fluid out of that thing, except
for what was retained in the clutch pack/gears
You cannot get everything out with vacuum extraction. You cannot reach the bottom of the 'well' with the vacuum tube.

This is the only way to get all the fluid out:
[IMG][/IMG]

the fill plug is right by the top left side of that rubber bushing, please go on about this 'well' you speak of
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      08-05-2021, 05:48 PM   #259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryreid90 View Post
[IMG][/IMG]

the fill plug is right by the top left side of that rubber bushing, please go on about this 'well' you speak of
You'll never get all the fluid out from there unless you turn your car upside down.
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      08-05-2021, 05:52 PM   #260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by perryreid90 View Post
[IMG][/IMG]

the fill plug is right by the top left side of that rubber bushing, please go on about this 'well' you speak of
You'll never get all the fluid out from there unless you turn your car upside down.
so, those 2 chambers dont have direct fluid flow? theres no way im removing the fkin driveshafts. id rather do 3 slotted fluid changes that pull the driveshafts. i'll do some research on this before i reply 🤣
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      08-05-2021, 05:53 PM   #261
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Quote:
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so, those 2 chambers dont have direct fluid flow? theres no way im removing the fkin driveshafts. id rather do 3 slotted fluid changes that pull the driveshafts. i'll do some research on this before i reply 🤣
Those two chambers are lower than the lowest point you can ever get your vacuum tubing into.

You can just mix and dilute out the old fluid by removing half quantity for 4-5 times and then you have over 95% replaced.
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      08-11-2021, 11:20 PM   #262
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So my story goes like this: at 50k miles I learned about this issue from the forum and proactively changed the fluid in the case, put a new flange in, and added the rubber flex disc. A few months later, the official recall was issued and I took the car in to bmw. I was told all is okay and that I already had the updated parts. Now at 67k, I get an occasional shudder under heavy throttle and feel some hesitation and clunkiness when setting off from a complete stop. As soon as I did xDelete all the symptoms went away…

Not sure what to do at this point. Is the transfer case covered by bmw under the cv joint recall? If not, can I just leave my car in rear wheel drive indefinitely and avoid dealing with this issue altogether?
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      08-12-2021, 03:29 AM   #263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewC1989 View Post
So my story goes like this: at 50k miles I learned about this issue from the forum and proactively changed the fluid in the case, put a new flange in, and added the rubber flex disc. A few months later, the official recall was issued and I took the car in to bmw. I was told all is okay and that I already had the updated parts. Now at 67k, I get an occasional shudder under heavy throttle and feel some hesitation and clunkiness when setting off from a complete stop. As soon as I did xDelete all the symptoms went away…

Not sure what to do at this point. Is the transfer case covered by bmw under the cv joint recall? If not, can I just leave my car in rear wheel drive indefinitely and avoid dealing with this issue altogether?
If you read the recall notice, it states replacement of the joint or full transfer case as needed.

Max
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      08-12-2021, 10:37 AM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clemsonf31 View Post
If you read the recall notice, it states replacement of the joint or full transfer case as needed.

Max
Is there a time and mileage limit or is it valid for the life of the vehicle?

My symptoms aren't that terrible yet so I feel like if I brought the car in now they wouldn't just happily offer me a new case.
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