[Mkswoosh]

Awesome, thanks for this!! I'll be doing this tomorrow night. Is there any other tips to top off this diy?

[Wires]

Big thumbs up to the OP for doing this. I did my DP last week and it was a walk in the park! This is what I did:

1) The biggest issue I had was unclipping the O2 sensors from the intake manifold. The OP showed how to do it with the poker tool, but just to clarify, that retaining clip is CENTER on the O2 plug, on the O2 side of the connector. When you bend it in a bit, the connector will slide away from the O2 sensors to the center of the engine and pop off.
2) No need to remove the floor pan, not at all.
3) Remove the airbox (it's on crew band clamp, then the lid comes off and the bottom pulls straight up (it's on rubber pegs). By doing that you can do 90% of the removal/install easily from the engine bay. I was able to easily remove the v-clamp, first O2 sensor, and the 2 hanger nuts. The second O2 sensor was turned in a way that I couldn't get a 22mm wrench on there, but once the DP was loose in the hole, you could remove the O2 from the top.
4) Just jacked the car up, and slid wheel ramps under the front tires. Gave lots of clearance to slide under and do the rest.
5) The mid-pipe inlet is actually split. I used the expander to force the split open a bit to make install easier.
6) It will easiest to install the new DP in, hang it on the turbo flange, and install the v-clamp. Keep it loose enough so that you can twist the DP in order to align to the MP (not required if your DP has the hanger like OEM). You can man-handle the DP to MP connection into place, but not the DP to turbo connection.

[BMags--]

Reviving this all the way in 2019.

Got my 340i a couple of months ago and finally got around to working on engine mods. This has been by FAR the best thread for this install. For a downpipe to be so popular as the VRSF one, there sure is little information on how to actually install. I can't even find the factory V-Bands that you would use should one of them break while trying to do the install. Anyways...

I can't get the V-Band off on the Turbo side. My issue is that the bolt turns freely and will just spin and spin, but I can't get anything to grip the nut on the other side. Its almost like the nut was put on backwards and there is so little space to maneuver around as it is, but its only an inch of room to even get a wrench in there. I have use everything I can stick up in there to try and hold the nut, including a deep socket, but nothing will attach due to the way the V-Band clamp is made. I thought about trying to just cut the bolt in the opening of the clamp but it will spark doing so and I'm not trying to blow up. ANY ADVICE ON WHAT TO DO?!? What would the dealer do? Image below.

[jackstrath]

looks like the nut is spinning in the bracket. Try keep some tension when opening up the clamp so the nut stays receded in the clamp.

[BMags--]

Originally Posted by jackstrath

looks like the nut is spinning in the bracket. Try keep some tension when opening up the clamp so the nut stays receded in the clamp.

Yeah I have tried that too. Both directions. I have had several mechanic friends say to just use a dremel and cut it in the middle so all I will need to do is replace the bolt. Trying to find a part number for both the clamp and bolt has been near impossible though.

[RoIIouT]

The shop I was going to go to is charging me $350 for installation. With your tutorial, I might be daring and try this myself. I think I want the experience of doing it more than anything.

Your time and effort to put this together is highly appreciated.

[F30MGM]

Originally Posted by RoIIouT

The shop I was going to go to is charging me $350 for installation. With your tutorial, I might be daring and try this myself. I think I want the experience of doing it more than anything.

Glad to give back my brother It's not hard at all you can use that 350 towards something else.

[RoIIouT]

Originally Posted by F30MGM

Glad to give back my brother It's not hard at all you can use that 350 towards something else.

Question:

Is this: https://www.amazon.com/CNT-90-Degree...gateway&sr=8-4 the correct o2 90 degree extender? Everything labeled "o2" anything is removed on amazon.

Thank you.

[F30MGM]

Originally Posted by RoIIouT

Question:

Is this: https://www.amazon.com/CNT-90-Degree-Angled-Extension/dp/B016P42V4W/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=90+degree+o2+sensor+extension& qid=1568082648&s=gateway&sr=8-4 the correct o2 90 degree extender? Everything labeled "o2" anything is removed on amazon.

Thank you.

Originally Posted by RoIIouT

Question:

Is this: https://www.amazon.com/CNT-90-Degree...way&sr=8-4 the correct o2 90 degree extender? Everything labeled "o2" anything is removed on amazon.

Thank you.

Yessir that's the same one I purchased

[dstanding]

Anyone running a 200-cell or other high-flow cat? Is it worthwhile or is the general consensus catless or nothing?

[Solid67]

Originally Posted by dstanding

Anyone running a 200-cell or other high-flow cat? Is it worthwhile or is the general consensus catless or nothing?

200 cell cat is worth it but you need to find a high-quality one like HJS or GESI which usually run around $1500-$1600 for the downpipe. 200 cell flows just about as much as catless, but still reduces the smell and may help you pass emissions.

[dstanding]

Originally Posted by Solid67

200 cell cat is worth it but you need to find a high-quality one like HJS or GESI which usually run around $1500-$1600 for the downpipe. 200 cell flows just about as much as catless, but still reduces the smell and may help you pass emissions.

What are the indicators of and advantages to a "high-quality" one? I guess my main question is, why shouldn't I go for the $480 VRSF 200-cell DP?

[Solid67]

IIRC HJS and GESI cats are made of metal and can withstand heat much better than a ceramic-based cat which is what's in the VSRF and most of the other brands.

If you intend on having aggressive burbles then you want to go catless or get an HJS or GESI cat. With ceramic-based cats, you will eventually blow them out. If you really don't care about burbles then go with a ceramic-based one.

[dstanding]

Originally Posted by Solid67

IIRC HJS and GESI cats are made of metal and can withstand heat much better than a ceramic-based cat which is what's in the VSRF and most of the other brands.

If you intend on having aggressive burbles then you want to go catless or get an HJS or GESI cat. With ceramic-based cats, you will eventually blow them out. If you really don't care about burbles then go with a ceramic-based one.

Not too keen on farts, I just want more power. VSRF it is then.

[CntryClub007]

Originally Posted by BMags--

Reviving this all the way in 2019.

Got my 340i a couple of months ago and finally got around to working on engine mods. This has been by FAR the best thread for this install. For a downpipe to be so popular as the VRSF one, there sure is little information on how to actually install. I can't even find the factory V-Bands that you would use should one of them break while trying to do the install. Anyways...

I can't get the V-Band off on the Turbo side. My issue is that the bolt turns freely and will just spin and spin, but I can't get anything to grip the nut on the other side. Its almost like the nut was put on backwards and there is so little space to maneuver around as it is, but its only an inch of room to even get a wrench in there. I have use everything I can stick up in there to try and hold the nut, including a deep socket, but nothing will attach due to the way the V-Band clamp is made. I thought about trying to just cut the bolt in the opening of the clamp but it will spark doing so and I'm not trying to blow up. ANY ADVICE ON WHAT TO DO?!? What would the dealer do? Image below.

I had a similar issue. I cut mine.

[IMS-340C]

You don't have to tune.

With Modules like MHD you can keep your OEM tune and have some options like No CEL, Top speed removal, Cooling etc....

Originally Posted by Panda340i

You're sure an O2 spacer would keep CEL off?
I wanna to buy a downpipe but the only thing holding me back is the CEL and I'm not interested for a tune.

[Briland33]

Did you put the first or second o2 in the in the 90deg extension

[F30MGM]

Originally Posted by Briland33

Did you put the first or second o2 in the in the 90deg extension

The second one that is after the cat.

[IMS-340C]

Yes with MHD you can keep everything stock and just turn off CEL.

With regular service MHD wouldn't be noticed but with any other issues it would be noticeable.

Anyway you also have the option to fully remove MHD if there's an issue with the car, not sure if they could know if it was installed on the car.

But as I said in your other post changing the downpipe will void your warranty anyway.

Originally Posted by acort37

So if I get MHD for my B58, I can keep everything stock and just say basically turn off the CEL?

Would it come across to the dealer that I fully flashed it? Don’t want them to void my warranty.

[somedood]

First I want to say thanks for this post. It has been a really useful guide for my DP install. I wanted to clarify a couple of things for those that may have some quesitons or ran into some of the same problems as me and a couple of others

Like BMags-- my V Band Clamp was not coming off. The nut on the other side of the bolt was stuck spinning with the bolt and got a bit rounded off so that it was able to spin in the clamp. To get this off I had to cut the bolt in the middle of the housing. I used a dremel with a diamond cutting wheel that I already had from harbor freight. I had to reach in from the top but there was no visibility on what I was doing so I ended up using an old cellphone camera on portrait mode underneath the turbo so I could see what I was cutting. It took a couple of hours to get it off, but went fast once I used the camera to see what i was doing. The bolt is a metic M8 with a 1.25 thread pitch. This should give you the 13mm head that you need for the V Band Clamp. The longest bolt that I could find was a 70mm shank, but it was just long enough to put on without having to really squeeze the clamp together. You'll want to use a higher grade bolt for this since it will get very hot, like a 10.9 grade bolt

Secondly when I removed the DP I pulled it out from the bottom which required a lot of wiggling. When I put the new DP in I put it in through the top and it was much easier.

To remove the O2 sensors you can also use an O2 wrench that you can rent from Oreily / Autozone. Mine came out easy so an open ended wrench would have worked ok, but if you're renting tools anyway might as well get those to make it easier.

The pipe expander made fitting the midpipe end really easy!

[F30MGM]

Originally Posted by BMags--

Reviving this all the way in 2019.

Got my 340i a couple of months ago and finally got around to working on engine mods. This has been by FAR the best thread for this install. For a downpipe to be so popular as the VRSF one, there sure is little information on how to actually install. I can't even find the factory V-Bands that you would use should one of them break while trying to do the install. Anyways...

I can't get the V-Band off on the Turbo side. My issue is that the bolt turns freely and will just spin and spin, but I can't get anything to grip the nut on the other side. Its almost like the nut was put on backwards and there is so little space to maneuver around as it is, but its only an inch of room to even get a wrench in there. I have use everything I can stick up in there to try and hold the nut, including a deep socket, but nothing will attach due to the way the V-Band clamp is made. I thought about trying to just cut the bolt in the opening of the clamp but it will spark doing so and I'm not trying to blow up. ANY ADVICE ON WHAT TO DO?!? What would the dealer do? Image below.

Maybe try PB Blaster or NUTS OFF spray to dissolve corrosion before loosening ^^

[Supr3me]

Originally Posted by somedood

First I want to say thanks for this post. It has been a really useful guide for my DP install. I wanted to clarify a couple of things for those that may have some quesitons or ran into some of the same problems as me and a couple of others

Like BMags-- my V Band Clamp was not coming off. The nut on the other side of the bolt was stuck spinning with the bolt and got a bit rounded off so that it was able to spin in the clamp. To get this off I had to cut the bolt in the middle of the housing. I used a dremel with a diamond cutting wheel that I already had from harbor freight. I had to reach in from the top but there was no visibility on what I was doing so I ended up using an old cellphone camera on portrait mode underneath the turbo so I could see what I was cutting. It took a couple of hours to get it off, but went fast once I used the camera to see what i was doing. The bolt is a metic M8 with a 1.25 thread pitch. This should give you the 13mm head that you need for the V Band Clamp. The longest bolt that I could find was a 70mm shank, but it was just long enough to put on without having to really squeeze the clamp together. You'll want to use a higher grade bolt for this since it will get very hot, like a 10.9 grade bolt

Secondly when I removed the DP I pulled it out from the bottom which required a lot of wiggling. When I put the new DP in I put it in through the top and it was much easier.

To remove the O2 sensors you can also use an O2 wrench that you can rent from Oreily / Autozone. Mine came out easy so an open ended wrench would have worked ok, but if you're renting tools anyway might as well get those to make it easier.

The pipe expander made fitting the midpipe end really easy!

Had the exact same issue with my install last year. Turned a 45 min walk in the park into a 3 and a half hour shitshow. Ended up cutting the bolt as well.