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      10-28-2020, 12:59 PM   #177
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blumagic - thank you for replying and taking the time to post that video clip! That looks like a fairly easy fix. I'll give it a look when I pull my wheel off.

There's only so many places that noise/rattle/etc. can travel off the wheel to the body of the car:

1. Upper control arm
2. Lower control arm
3. Shock tower
4. Steering rack
5. Sway bar/end links

At this point I pulled the camber plates off and am running the stock mounts. The rattle is still there but about 95% quieter. So it's wheel/hub related. The only thing not stock is my Turner Monoballs which I plan on pulling out and replacing with new OEM control arms.

Given the nature of the control arm/thrust arm (incoming road impacts) and the monoball (can translate harsh road surfaces)... I suspect my swap back to the stock arms will elimnate the rattle with the stock pieces and will luck, produce no rattle once I get the street camber plates back on.

Caveat, I'm running a 19 x 9 forged rim with a 235/40 Hankook Tire. The tire is about as stiff as bricks, so I'm getting more ride noise/harshness than say those running 18s or softer compound tires.
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      10-28-2020, 02:31 PM   #178
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Hope you figure it out, mine is pretty quiet now that I have bent back the bracket to clear.

I’m 225/40 on 19x9 with leaking front control arms lol
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      02-01-2021, 08:21 PM   #179
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these or vorshlag? unfortunately the street millway with the 60mm top hat is now almost $600, making these the most expensive plates on the market right now.
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      02-02-2021, 02:25 AM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike082802 View Post
these or vorshlag? unfortunately the street millway with the 60mm top hat is now almost $600, making these the most expensive plates on the market right now.
Hi guys. Regarding our price I just want to make sure you compare our prices without Tax. With the todays currency our camber plates cost USD 487,51. ex.tax.

The 60mm adapter should normally be included with the suspension. So make sure you not pay twice for this.

Just send me a message if you need some help.
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      02-02-2021, 09:23 AM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samuel Lindkvist View Post
Hi guys. Regarding our price I just want to make sure you compare our prices without Tax. With the todays currency our camber plates cost USD 487,51. ex.tax.

The 60mm adapter should normally be included with the suspension. So make sure you not pay twice for this.

Just send me a message if you need some help.
Am I looking at the wrong product? They all seem to be listed as €422, $507 excluding tax/shipping.
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      02-02-2021, 09:43 AM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weehe126 View Post
Am I looking at the wrong product? They all seem to be listed as €422, $507 excluding tax/shipping.

422 Euro or 487 USD ex.tax. direcly from us. Maybe you seen some other prices on our dealers webpages?

P.s I don´t want to add links to our page with respect for forum rules.
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      02-02-2021, 12:38 PM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samuel Lindkvist View Post
422 Euro or 487 USD ex.tax. direcly from us. Maybe you seen some other prices on our dealers webpages?

P.s I don´t want to add links to our page with respect for forum rules.
I think it is site config or something, for us in America it lists the product in euro (€422) on the Millway site.

But when you go to checkout via PayPal it is only charging €3996 SEK to usd.

€422 = $507usd
$3996SEK = $474.57usd

If they just move to checkout they’ll get the proper price
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      02-02-2021, 01:15 PM   #184
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for me it shows in euros :
Plates 422.78
2 Adapter for 60mm 42.32
2 Adapter for 60mm to 65mm 28.44
23.28 shipping

total 516 euro which equates to $620. and the f30 plates now say back order as of this morning.
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      02-02-2021, 01:23 PM   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blumagic View Post
I think it is site config or something, for us in America it lists the product in euro (€422) on the Millway site.

But when you go to checkout via PayPal it is only charging €3996 SEK to usd.

€422 = $507usd
$3996SEK = $474.57usd

If they just move to checkout they’ll get the proper price
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike082802 View Post
for me it shows in euros :
Plates 422.78
2 Adapter for 60mm 42.32
2 Adapter for 60mm to 65mm 28.44
23.28 shipping

total 516 euro which equates to $620. and the f30 plates now say back order as of this morning.
In the upper right of the page next to where you can select the page language you can also select USD instead of Euros.

Also, for 60 to 65mm adapters just get these (~$21 shipped for two). I've used plenty of them.
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      02-02-2021, 03:01 PM   #186
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Why do you need adapters? They should fit any stock/aftermarket spring that fits our oem strut mounts.
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      02-02-2021, 08:42 PM   #187
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im going to email millway tonight. i thought i needed the adapters for ohlins coilovers.

and farkle, i've used the diftech adapters before, i can get them for $15 on ebay.
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      02-02-2021, 08:44 PM   #188
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I have now changed to US-dollar as default currency for US visitors.

Then type in BP21 as discount code in the checkout.
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      02-02-2021, 09:05 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samuel Lindkvist View Post
I have now changed to US-dollar as default currency for US visitors.

Then type in BP21 as discount code in the checkout.
just emailed you on the site.
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      04-14-2021, 10:10 AM   #190
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If you're wondering how to replace the monoballs in your Millway camber plates I made the video below on the process.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Index
-0:00 Intro
-0:16 Monoball sleeve/shim removal
-1:26 Locking ring removal
-3:59 Pressing out the monoball
-6:09 Pressing in the new monoball
-9:25 Locking ring installation.
-11:51 Monoball sleeve/shim installation
-12:34 Monoball dimensions and closing remarks
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      05-20-2021, 05:04 PM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
I didn't even have to loosen any control arm bolts for it to clear.

5 strut tower bolts
1 strut brace bolt
1 sway bar end link bolt

Push down a bit and the strut will swing out.
Just curious, when you disconnected the end link, the 5 strut tower + 1 strut brace bolts, did the strut drop far enough to the point you could have removed the top hat had the strut retaining nut been removed? In other words, if you had jacked up the strut an inch or two, then removed the strut nut from strut threaded rod, lowered the jack (slowly), would it be enough for the threaded rod to pass through the top hat, allowing you to free just the hat from the strut tower? I have an xDrive so I don't have the luxury of being able to tip out the strut.
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      05-21-2021, 08:44 AM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casualDIYer View Post
Just curious, when you disconnected the end link, the 5 strut tower + 1 strut brace bolts, did the strut drop far enough to the point you could have removed the top hat had the strut retaining nut been removed? In other words, if you had jacked up the strut an inch or two, then removed the strut nut from strut threaded rod, lowered the jack (slowly), would it be enough for the threaded rod to pass through the top hat, allowing you to free just the hat from the strut tower? I have an xDrive so I don't have the luxury of being able to tip out the strut.
Never tried it.
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      05-21-2021, 09:01 AM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casualDIYer View Post
Just curious, when you disconnected the end link, the 5 strut tower + 1 strut brace bolts, did the strut drop far enough to the point you could have removed the top hat had the strut retaining nut been removed? In other words, if you had jacked up the strut an inch or two, then removed the strut nut from strut threaded rod, lowered the jack (slowly), would it be enough for the threaded rod to pass through the top hat, allowing you to free just the hat from the strut tower? I have an xDrive so I don't have the luxury of being able to tip out the strut.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
Never tried it.
+1. I've never tried it that way. I would be concerned about the way the spring might unwind.

I think the greater challenge is the re-install and how you're lining up the spring.
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      05-21-2021, 09:31 AM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
+1. I've never tried it that way. I would be concerned about the way the spring might unwind.

I think the greater challenge is the re-install and how you're lining up the spring.
Do you think there is a risk the spring might spin a bit, and not have the bottom part of it correctly aligned on the spring perch? The idea sprang out of an interaction I had with FaRKle! on YouTube. He suggested I might consider attempting to replace the hat without removing the strut. Given his experience with the F3x platform, it's worth considering giving it a try.

I saw this guy's video where he swaps out the top hat of his F82 without removing the strut. My complication is that I have xDrive so that might make things a bit trickier.

Jump to 6:20
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUguUIoqpVQ

I wondering if this guy's idea is just luck or would it work for other Fx platforms, even xDrive??
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      05-21-2021, 02:25 PM   #195
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Never remove the strut with the topmounts left in the strut tower. I will only work with very short after market springs. With oe spring it is dangerous and you will not be able to remount the parts that way.
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      05-21-2021, 05:40 PM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samuel Lindkvist View Post
Never remove the strut with the topmounts left in the strut tower. I will only work with very short after market springs. With oe spring it is dangerous and you will not be able to remount the parts that way.
Thanks Samuel. Looks like the longer road of removing the strut.
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      05-22-2021, 08:07 AM   #197
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I have done this at least 50-times so here the best way I found out. Every time I’m tempted to try to get the job done quickly by not removing the strut. But trust me. It will take more time with all struggling with springs and spring compression tool in that tight space.

Below written from memory and could be faulty so please follow it with care. And be sure you have a proper spring compressor tool, it is dangerous and always a risk to compress springs.

1. Pop the hood and put masking tape around the +connector above the top mount on the right side. You will be very close to with your tools later so be carful to not make shortcircuit between + and the body.

2. Put the car on jackstands so both front wheels in in the air. If you only raise one side at a time you will have problems with removing the swaybar links.

3. Remove front wheels.

4. Loosen the height sensor that is attached to the left control arm.

If you have M2, M3 or M4 continue to point 7 below.
5. Remove enough plastic covers underneath so you can reach the inner control arm bolt.

6. Loosen the nut on the inner control arm bolt. Just enough so there is no preload on the bolt. Do not remove completely.

7. Remove the swaybar link in the strut (leave it connected to the swaybar.)

8. Put a wood piece on your jack and pump up on the front disc just until it touch.

9. Loosen the brake hose and ABS sensor cable from the sheet metal. Only one point of each hose/cable needs to be removed. Just so the canle will be longer. Take photos before this so you can remember how the cables goes around the strut.

10. Remove the strut bolt completely.

11. Put some tool in the gap where the strut is clamped so you can expand the gap.

12. Lower the jack slowly and let the strut slide out from the carrier. Continue until it fall out completely. Push the strut towards the engine and make sure the carrier will not till too much so it will stretch the brake hose.

13. Hold the strut and remove the top mount from above. 3 or 5 bolts. (Not the damper nut)

14. Put the complete strut in a vice and clamp in the swaybar link bracket.


To be continued....
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      05-25-2021, 12:16 PM   #198
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Hi Samuel

This step

6. Loosen the nut on the inner control arm bolt. Just enough so there is no preload on the bolt. Do not remove completely.

Why do you take this step?

Thanks
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