[Insane435]

Now that i am lowered, do i really need to get an alignment even though i didnt touch any camber bolts?

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Insane435

Now that i am lowered, do i really need to get an alignment even though i didnt touch any camber bolts?

My recommendation is, "Yes."

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by the dope steez

Just did this job two days ago, pretty simple. Even more so if you have new top hats, might not even need your spring compressors.

Could you explain why it's easier with new top hats? Can't you just put everything back together?

Also do you need a special bolt for the tophat nut? I watched a video where you need one to pass a torx bit into but in this thread I didn't really see any mention.

[the dope steez]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Could you explain why it's easier with new top hats? Can't you just put everything back together?

Also do you need a special bolt for the tophat nut? I watched a video where you need one to pass a torx bit into but in this thread I didn't really see any mention.

Ya for sure, it's not that much easier with a new top hat, but if you had new ones all you need to do is assemble everything on the bench, then take out the entire spring/strut assembly and replace.

Top nut is standard, I don't remember anything special about removing it. Only stupid thing I neglected to do was torque that nut under load - very important. I had a bad clunk for a block or two until I realized my error and torqued it up with the car off the lift.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by the dope steez

Ya for sure, it's not that much easier with a new top hat, but if you had new ones all you need to do is assemble everything on the bench, then take out the entire spring/strut assembly and replace.

Top nut is standard, I don't remember anything special about removing it. Only stupid thing I neglected to do was torque that nut under load - very important. I had a bad clunk for a block or two until I realized my error and torqued it up with the car off the lift.

Haha ok like torquing it after the strut is installed from the top?

And oh ok that's weird, maybe in Canada it's different?

If you look at 9:15 he need to use open ended socket and put a bit through it.

[the dope steez]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Haha ok like torquing it after the strut is installed from the top?

And oh ok that's weird, maybe in Canada it's different?

If you look at 9:15 he need to use open ended socket and put a bit through it.

Yes I remember now. You do need to do that goofy thing with the the allan bit to hold the strut in place while you torque it down.

And yes once everything is tied up nicely, load the suspension (i.e. put the car on the ground) and then torque the top nut.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by the dope steez

Yes I remember now. You do need to do that goofy thing with the the allan bit to hold the strut in place while you torque it down.

And yes once everything is tied up nicely, load the suspension (i.e. put the car on the ground) and then torque the top nut.

So did you end buying some kind of special through socket or whatever? Or how did you take it off? I'm not sure what to get for that lol.

[Marlinman]

my socket set came with a few sockets that have an opening that can be used as a pass through, and instead of hooking it up to the socket wrench there are hexagonal contacts that can be gripped with vice grips, etc. then you put the allen key through and don't risk marring the components. Just a suggestion.

[the dope steez]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

So did you end buying some kind of special through socket or whatever? Or how did you take it off? I'm not sure what to get for that lol.

Impact wrench is your friend

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by the dope steez

Impact wrench is your friend

Ah ok I got one. I still would have thought it would require holding the middle like a sway bar end link for example.

[Insane435]

I Installed the KW V1 Coilovers on an x-drive:

1) I didn't need the special tool to install or uninstall top hats on the fronts or rear. Just get a set of pass through sockets and a ratchet with hex sockets. You need these for the sway bar links in the front as well.

2) Having a new top hat would make the install easier, but in all honesty, there is nothing challenging about removing a top hat or compressing the spring. Just rent the compressor from an auto store for a weekend.

3) An impact wrench isn't really required in my opinion. I found it just fine to use breaker bars and torque wrenches, etc. I wouldn't use an impact to put the bolts back in either.

4.1) It helps to have 2 people to remove and install the front strut assembly. I found it helpful to put a jack stand under the ROTOR HAT to support the assembly when you remove the strut. I also undid the top hat bolts first (engine bay). Also, it is possible your CV joint or whatever will come out of place at the differential. Mine did the first time. Just make sure you put it back in. You will know if its dislodged. I have x-drive and was able to remove the entire assembly without dislodging the CV joint from the diff. You just need to have someone use a long crow bar to properly move and leverage the assembly.

4.2) Install was the reverse. Put the strut in spindle and then swing it into the well and bolt the top hat last.

5) I did my install on a lift; DIY shop. In hindsight, I would have no hesitation to do this job in my own garage, at my own pace. You could even warm up by doing the rears one day, and the fronts the next. This would have saved me about $200 of lift time which again, I didn't need.

[sspade]

Anyone have information or DIY on a rear sway bar / ARB swap?

Im itching to get the 15mm M-Sport bar installed but have heard the rear cradle need be lowered/dropped. Just wondering what all is involved with this?

[kern417]

Originally Posted by the dope steez

Impact wrench is your friend

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Ah ok I got one. I still would have thought it would require holding the middle like a sway bar end link for example.

I was able to remove and install everything with my impact wrench. Hold it with your fingers/hand to prevent it from spinning and give the impact a few jabs, don't just lay into it constantly. It'll spin some but it's not the same as twisting it endlessly with a socket wrench. It makes the install go quicker too, and considering most if not all shops will do the install with an air wrench i didn't feel too bad using my cheap battery powered one. If you have the pass through tool then use it but I've installed plenty of coilover/suspension systems without it.

Originally Posted by sspade

Anyone have information or DIY on a rear sway bar / ARB swap?

Im itching to get the 15mm M-Sport bar installed but have heard the rear cradle need be lowered/dropped. Just wondering what all is involved with this?

Pretty simple in concept.
1. Remove the bolts connecting it to the endlinks.
2. Remove all bolts holding the subframe in place, possibly control arms too.
3. Lower the subframe
4. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the bushings in place
5. Swap roll bars
6. Reinstall everything

It's a pretty big job because of the subframe removal. You'll need to take a good look at it to see if the subframe can be removed at the control arm bushings, or if the control arms need to be removed from the knuckless too. Worst case you need to drop everything which would mean disconnecting axles and such, but I don't think you'd need that much room.

[the dope steez]

Originally Posted by kern417

I was able to remove and install everything with my impact wrench. Hold it with your fingers/hand to prevent it from spinning and give the impact a few jabs, don't just lay into it constantly. It'll spin some but it's not the same as twisting it endlessly with a socket wrench. It makes the install go quicker too, and considering most if not all shops will do the install with an air wrench i didn't feel too bad using my cheap battery powered one. If you have the pass through tool then use it but I've installed plenty of coilover/suspension systems without it.

Pretty simple in concept.
1. Remove the bolts connecting it to the endlinks.
2. Remove all bolts holding the subframe in place, possibly control arms too.
3. Lower the subframe
4. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the bushings in place
5. Swap roll bars
6. Reinstall everything

It's a pretty big job because of the subframe removal. You'll need to take a good look at it to see if the subframe can be removed at the control arm bushings, or if the control arms need to be removed from the knuckless too. Worst case you need to drop everything which would mean disconnecting axles and such, but I don't think you'd need that much room.

This. Call it lazy if you want... I call it 'efficient'

[sspade]

Just got my rears installed this afternoon. Couple notes...

I did NOT require an E-Socket. No such bolt on my rear suspension?

The nipple on the lower boot of spring was faced inwards so I replaced it the same way. A video I saw online (Kies Motorsports) said the nipple was on the other side (outside)?

I did not re torque bolts or replace lock nuts as suggested in the Bentley manual. Just zipped them down nice nice with an impact.

Went for a quick rip afterwards and all seems well.


Kinda nervous about the front. Im working alone, as usual...

Any last minute tips or recommendations? Do I need the pass through tool?

A quick last minute tools list would be huge. There seems to be some discrepancy as to whats actually required for the fronts.

I already rented a spring compressor. I plan to re use all nuts/bolts.

What else will I definitely need?


Also... reason behind me not getting new bolts as suggested is Im not sure of the part numbers or best place to source them? Are they special nuts and bolts or will generic replacements do?

[zole2112]

Originally Posted by sspade

Just got my rears installed this afternoon. Couple notes...

I did NOT require an E-Socket. No such bolt on my rear suspension?

The nipple on the lower boot of spring was faced inwards so I replaced it the same way. A video I saw online (Kies Motorsports) said the nipple was on the other side (outside)?

I did not re torque bolts or replace lock nuts as suggested in the Bentley manual. Just zipped them down nice nice with an impact.

Went for a quick rip afterwards and all seems well.


Kinda nervous about the front. Im working alone, as usual...

Any last minute tips or recommendations? Do I need the pass through tool?

A quick last minute tools list would be huge. There seems to be some discrepancy as to whats actually required for the fronts.

I already rented a spring compressor. I plan to re use all nuts/bolts.

What else will I definitely need?


Also... reason behind me not getting new bolts as suggested is Im not sure of the part numbers or best place to source them? Are they special nuts and bolts or will generic replacements do?

I did mine without a pass thru, I just put an openend wrench on the bolt at an angle and then turned it with the torx to loosen it.

[B58 parts]

ECS sells the 'strut nut' sockets, so you can use a torque wrench. Don't use an impact to tighten .. [coming from someone who uses an impact on everything and hates doing any job that involves any tool outside of an impact ] ... Do not use one on a shock nut, unless you want noises and to send it out for repair. The strut nut socket is worth it, or you can gradually work up with a pass through wrench, and keep checking with your torque wrench until you got it to click.

For the front .. mask the fenders with a towel and mask them some more. Tape a rag around the tie rod end boot as it will contact the dust shield and can rip.

If you have xdrive it's kind of a pain getting them back in, the axle pops out so you have to slowly turn the brake rotor, push in on the hub with your knee and push down on the strut with both hands. Eventually the splines will line up and it will all pop in and back up with a very satisfying feeling.

For the rears the only tricky part is getting the outer camber arm and the hub to line up well. You have to turn the inner eccentric bolt and it will line up. Careful not to force the arm up with a jack, if it doesn't line up you'll damage the ball joint on the hub.

[zole2112]

Originally Posted by YuminNuman

ECS sells the 'strut nut' sockets, so you can use a torque wrench. Don't use an impact to tighten .. [coming from someone who uses an impact on everything and hates doing any job that involves any tool outside of an impact ] ... Do not use one on a shock nut, unless you want noises and to send it out for repair. The strut nut socket is worth it, or you can gradually work up with a pass through wrench, and keep checking with your torque wrench until you got it to click.

For the front .. mask the fenders with a towel and mask them some more. Tape a rag around the tie rod end boot as it will contact the dust shield and can rip.

If you have xdrive it's kind of a pain getting them back in, the axle pops out so you have to slowly turn the brake rotor, push in on the hub with your knee and push down on the strut with both hands. Eventually the splines will line up and it will all pop in and back up with a very satisfying feeling.

For the rears the only tricky part is getting the outer camber arm and the hub to line up well. You have to turn the inner eccentric bolt and it will line up. Careful not to force the arm up with a jack, if it doesn't line up you'll damage the ball joint on the hub.

It was definitely tricky and frustrating lining up the camber bars with the hub, it's easy to cross thread it. I was changing my camber arms as well and it was easier to bolt it to the hub first then to the frame.

[IllLojik]

Swapped my stock struts/shocks and springs for B4's and H&R Sports this past Saturday. Started the rear first. Thank goodness I did because they are a pain in the ass. As straight forward as it is, getting that outer bolt back in was a nightmare. Having a jack under the wheel hub helps a ton. There's gotta be an easier way for the rears. 3hrs each side it took me.

Fronts were cake in comparison. About 45 minutes each side. I f**ed up and over torqued the driver's side lower bolt that holds the strut in place and had to run out and grab a new one. Was super careful to torque the right side correctly. An Impact wrench is a Godsend.

Oh yeah, stock shocks were absolute trash at 84k miles. Zero rebound.

[strobe89]

Originally Posted by IllLojik

Swapped my stock struts/shocks and springs for B4's and H&R Sports this past Saturday. Started the rear first. Thank goodness I did because they are a pain in the ass. As straight forward as it is, getting that outer bolt back in was a nightmare. Having a jack under the wheel hub helps a ton. There's gotta be an easier way for the rears. 3hrs each side it took me.

Fronts were cake in comparison. About 45 minutes each side. I f**ed up and over torqued the driver's side lower bolt that holds the strut in place and had to run out and grab a new one. Was super careful to torque the right side correctly. An Impact wrench is a Godsend.

Oh yeah, stock shocks were absolute trash at 84k miles. Zero rebound.

Do you know what the torque values are for each bolt? Any tips for the DIY? Maybe have a spare bolt on hand? Lol.

I swapped springs on my ND Miata last year and had a fancy DIY guide with torque values and pictures so it was super easy. Curious if something exists for the F30. I know the Kies video shows what to do quite well, but is lacking torque values.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by strobe89

Do you know what the torque values are for each bolt? Any tips for the DIY? Maybe have a spare bolt on hand? Lol.

I swapped springs on my ND Miata last year and had a fancy DIY guide with torque values and pictures so it was super easy. Curious if something exists for the F30. I know the Kies video shows what to do quite well, but is lacking torque values.

...those answers should be in the PDFs.

[IllLojik]

Originally Posted by strobe89

Do you know what the torque values are for each bolt? Any tips for the DIY? Maybe have a spare bolt on hand? Lol.

I swapped springs on my ND Miata last year and had a fancy DIY guide with torque values and pictures so it was super easy. Curious if something exists for the F30. I know the Kies video shows what to do quite well, but is lacking torque values.

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=970605