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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N47 and N57 Turbodiesel Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Transfer Case Output Flange Failure, Cause Analysis, Prevention, and Repair
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      08-20-2019, 01:50 PM   #111
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Welp .. its at the Dealership as I type with the same symptoms as it presented 2 years ago @ 22K miles (and everyone else reports ..), now at 58K and am expecting a call back with bad xfer case diagnosis. Looks like the extended warranty I bought when it rolled out of CPO is going to pay off afterall ..

Car in question is an early build 2014 328d Wagon

I just spoke with my service advisor and asked him

- Do they automatically replace the Flex Disk Guibo as part of the Xfer case warranty work ? Will it be with the newer design, i.e. the older design is no longer in the supply chain ? He said he will check and report back ..

- Can they add Locktite to the output flange prior to install ? He said he will ask, but most likely not on their dime AND it would void any future warranty work on said part(s).

I then asked, since you will have replaced the Xfer case now twice, will this carry any etension to the warranty set to expire May 2020 ? to which he replied, No. So .. I hypothetically asked if this was April 2020 and you were fixing it AGAIN .. 1 month later in May I would be S.O.L. ? He fumbled and said they would probably push for a BMWNA good faith effort but basically.. yes.

So .. Do I spend the extra money - on me - while its all apart to have them take the spline off and pack it with Magic Goo and reinstall hoping to keep it alive?

I doubt it will fail again while under warranty and I do agree with the logic and analysis of OP Enabled "improvement".

I've done my fair share of failure analysis in my 30 years in the computer field as well as keeping my old muscle cars alive just as long .. although Im not a professional mechanic I can certainly see the validity of this fix and since I am resetting the clock, my gut instinct is to apply the patch fix given the next time it munches a Xfer case its on my dime.

.. BTW, this is my Wife's car and while she likes to drive (and basically does for a living = visiting nurse), she hardly pushes it aggressively. It almost thanks me for the once or twice a month I drive it and give it the spurs - it is an extremely fun car to drive and I often wish to have the opportunity to drive it more.

Crystal Blue Metallic pic taken this weekend (700 mile trip to in-laws lakehouse and back) to add to the Diesel Wagon Love in hopes of advice - THANKS !
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      08-20-2019, 03:19 PM   #112
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If you have contact and /or good relationship with your service tech, I would have them take pics of the output flange, and getting the extra space between the flange and the shaft sealed will help prevent the vibration damage on the next one.
If you expect to be out of warranty by then, then it makes sense to get done.

That small of a modification wouldn't really change anything on the transfer case in terms of function. But yea, they simply want to cover their butts.
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      08-20-2019, 03:25 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSportWagon View Post
Welp .. its at the Dealership as I type with the same symptoms as it presented 2 years ago @ 22K miles (and everyone else reports ..), now at 58K and am expecting a call back with bad xfer case diagnosis. Looks like the extended warranty I bought when it rolled out of CPO is going to pay off afterall ..

Car in question is an early build 2014 328d Wagon

I just spoke with my service advisor and asked him

- Do they automatically replace the Flex Disk Guibo as part of the Xfer case warranty work ? Will it be with the newer design, i.e. the older design is no longer in the supply chain ? He said he will check and report back ..

- Can they add Locktite to the output flange prior to install ? He said he will ask, but most likely not on their dime AND it would void any future warranty work on said part(s).
Oh no! Glad it's getting covered for you again.

I don't think the new giubo is part of the warranty work. That said, since they've got it apart if you were to buy the updated giubo you could try to work out a deal for them to install it (hopefully free, but otherwise less than doing the job later for sure). Even better would be if you could get them to advocate to BMWNA to get you that part and install it under goodwill since BMW officially went away from the old metal giubo.

LCI cars come with the rubber giubo, and thus far it doesn't look like there are any on the transfer case failure database, so you might be OK with just updating that part and not having the dealer loctite the flange to the shaft.
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      08-20-2019, 03:42 PM   #114
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Thanks much for the quick replies ..

I will ask for the udated Guibo (what an .. interesting? name) and pay for it if necessary and not installed on prior Xfer failure ..

Everything in my intuition (which I've learned to rely on and trust..) says to pack it with Locktite. If I were doing the job myself - given the info in this thread - I most certainly would.

I did form a relationship with the service mgr of my dealership from a previous mishap .. I may try and tap that resource tomorrow

.. as far as being covered again, well lets put that on "hold but hopeful" as they said it would be a couple of days before they get to it to even diag. it. S'ok .. I've got their new X2 loaner

Thanks again !
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      08-20-2019, 05:57 PM   #115
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Haha, Giubo is a portmanteau of the words giunto (Italian for joint) Boschi (the Italian guy credited for inventing it).


If any of you LCI guys with the 96mm giubo ever have your exhaust off or are doing something under there, please wiggle the output flange and look for movement between it and the output shaft. Any little movement is enough to amplify into bigger wear.

Officially the aluminum giubos were superseded because the aluminum would enlarge once the bushing inserts were wearing, causing the whole flex disk to explode when the aluminum cracks through.
There probably is a service bulletin about it. I don't think it's nearly enough to protect the flange, going to rubber, but the data seems to show it helps.
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      09-22-2019, 10:12 AM   #116
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Just completed this fix combined with rubber guibo on my new transfer case that was replaced ~8k miles ago. Flange and output shaft splines all looked good, we’ll see how this goes!
Thanks Enabled for the detailed break down

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      10-02-2019, 12:46 PM   #117
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I had to replace a transfer case in a Ford Aerostar once - cost about $1600 - a year and half later, (also well out of warranty, I believe) there was a recall that paid for the transfer case repair. I got a check and was I ever surprised. So, maybe there's hope! I've only owned my 2015 328d for less than a month and it seems wonderful but since slogging through these posts, I would have to say my apprehension is a little higher now than when I drove the car off the lot...
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      10-02-2019, 10:22 PM   #118
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I wouldn't hold my breath that they will do a recall on it. It would be nice, however.

These specific models are not that unreliable. A handful of users here have been very dedicated to figuring out the typical issues and integrating fixes or prevention methods.
If you're the dedicated type, I would recommend applying preventative methods for this quite simple (yet overlooked) issue for the transfer case.

I'm into this car for life. I don't think there's anything on it that scares me.
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      10-18-2019, 08:06 AM   #119
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Hi guys,
First post here, been a long time BMW follower, but this is the first time I actually own one. We just got our 2014 Sport Wagon last weekend with just over 100k miles on it and I knew before we bought it that the transfer case might be the one thing that I really need to look out for. Ended up pressing the dealer to offer me an extended warranty for now until I can get my ducks in a row and then I came across this great post and had a couple of questions...

1. Like another poster already asked, it seems counter intuitive to actually affix the splines together. Usually splines are suppose to allow lateral movement. But then I also read that there is shims in there that meant to take out that movement/slack. Why would BMW use such a design instead of something that is pressed on that has virtually no backlash?
2. Would an alternative to using Loctite be a very thick grease that replaces the gaps of a still intact spline or is the concern that centrifugal forces would eventually fling it out?

BTW, there is a wrong way/side of installing a circlip/snap ring. Most are stamped out of steel and that means there is a sharp edge on one side and a more rounded edge on the opposite side from the manufacturing process. The sharp edge should always be on the side where the force is coming from to prevent the ring from being pushed out of the groove. Also over time the groove can start to be worn out. Not sure if this is really a concern here, but is meant to highlight the fact that a c-clip can be installed the wrong way.

Enabled, glad to see others out there still keeping the ALH TDI's alive. We have a white 2003 Jetta Wagon with the notorious 01M auto trans, but I have a good shop nearby that has been keeping that thing alive. Got over 230k on now.
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      10-18-2019, 10:59 AM   #120
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Originally Posted by swissarmyknife View Post
Hi guys,
First post here, been a long time BMW follower, but this is the first time I actually own one. We just got our 2014 Sport Wagon last weekend with just over 100k miles on it
Welcome! There's a good amount of F31 forum members (at least five I know of) in the Bay.
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      10-18-2019, 10:39 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Welcome! There's a good amount of F31 forum members (at least five I know of) in the Bay.
Looking forward to connect at some point.
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      10-19-2019, 03:13 PM   #122
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The shims take the slack out in an outward direction parallel to the direction of the driveshaft. If the wrong shims were in there you'd likely have wobble in both planes. Eventually (maybe immediately) I'd imagine you'd feel vibration. And the flange would probably self destruct in a similar fashion to the way it currently does.

Thick grease would probably be better than nothing, but I don't think that would be enough. It could possibly even act as a cutting agent with the vibration and a couple thousandths of clearance.

BMW really should have used a pressed on piece, but they're not likely to revise it any time soon. I'm at 50k on my TC, 30k with the loctite. If it cured correctly, i can't see it failing. It's essentially pressed on at this point. I don't see any downside to the fix, if it fails you can always remove it with a torch if you want to rebuild. If your replacing the TC doesn't really matter
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      10-19-2019, 05:17 PM   #123
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2007 BMW 328i  [8.50]
I know I've posted this elsewhere but I want to share info with the entire F31 community.


Just had my transfer case fail and it is currently at the dealer for a new one. I bought the car last year and have owned it for approx 13 months at 50k miles. I've put on 18k miles in a year as it's my commuter car. I have 18" staggered APEX SM-10 wheels with 245/40/18 tires all-around and within 0.8% ratio compared to previous tires. I also drive around with a cargo carrier daily. Driving style is VERY conservative and never ever had signs/ symptoms of a troublesome transfer case or transmission. I'm very close to ridding this car once I get it back and trade it in for a newer Subaru Crosstrek. I'm not as loyal as I used to be to the brand anymore. I have a garage queen 2010 E60 M5 and the wife drives an E71 X6. Idk, I may change my mind once I sit in the front seat again (lol) but this car has been in a lot the past 3 months for EGR, EGR reprogram and now, transfer case issues. The only silver lining is that I was able to have my SA talk the dealership down from a $4800 fix to about a $4000 fix. I've seen quotes here that have been worse.
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      12-04-2019, 02:45 PM   #124
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What an amazing thread!
Thanks to Enabled for the thorough investigation and suggested fix. I have an F30 320d xDrive manual that had the TC replaced @ 34k miles (out of warranty, but 80% goodwill from BMWUK) and I must say, every day since then (15/01/2018) I can’t help but anxiously wait for that shudder/vibration/slip to return
Very disappointed in this BMW (or ATC ) design flaw. I wish this thread/fix was around in Jan 2018 when I had the TC replaced...I would’ve personally supplied some 660 Loctite

Anyway, car is on 65k miles now and it still feels fine.

Hoping you can shed some light on this; what transfer case did they fit?
Looking at the invoice and the part numbers listed, this is what was replaced that day.
22326856421 mounting
27107649725 TC

I can deduct that the rubber guibo wasn’t fitted
My car is a MY13 (pre LCI)

I am tempted to get an indy mechanic fit the rubber guibo and apply loctite...
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      12-05-2019, 05:57 AM   #125
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Hey, i am driving a 330d xdrive and have some vibrations coming somewhere from the driveshaft. They occur only during stronger acceleration at around 80km/h and are gone after 1second or until i reach 88km/h. I was able to reduced the vibrations by adjusting the tire pressure and I am now driving over 14months with those vibrations. The did not change at all and arent that bad. Co-drivers are not recognizing them.
I recently bought xdelete and expected that switching to rwd only mode would remove those vibrations (this was never intended as a dirty "fix"). I was surprised that the vibrations still occur and are even stronger than in xdeive mode. I am now questioning if they are caused by a defect transfer case or the differential as i feel some vibrations during acceleration in a turn. According to the last inspection my guiabo is worn but not required to be changed (the metal one is cirrently mounted). Xdelete also indicates that my clutch pack is worn, but not completely, so I am not aware If this is considered critical or not.
Could the vibration be caused by the output flange? Any help or information where to start the failure analysis would be appreciated.
Thank you guys.
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      12-05-2019, 09:15 PM   #126
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Definitely change both giubo flex discs first before digging in too deeply.
The output flange is easy to inspect while there.
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      12-06-2019, 12:01 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
Definitely change both giubo flex discs first before digging in too deeply.
The output flange is easy to inspect while there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
Definitely change both giubo flex discs first before digging in too deeply.
The output flange is easy to inspect while there.
Thanks, thats what i thought. Goin to start like that.
Are the symptoms i described typical for rear main shaft vibrations caused by the flange (or giubo)?
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      12-06-2019, 03:25 PM   #128
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I didn't have any vibrations, and my flange was loose.
I had seeping oil because it was so loose, and I simply noticed because I looked under the car.

Typically the flange will shear off after engine pulsating vibration. This is different than driveline vibration. I don't know if driveline vibration precedes failure.

Flex discs are much more likely to cause driveline vibration, as well as a worn driveshaft (u joints).
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      12-09-2019, 05:40 AM   #129
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Thanks again!
The tip with the u-joints is a good one. I already changed the oil last year (pumped out in assembled condition, no major change of vibrations) and had no visual leakage.
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      12-28-2019, 12:53 AM   #130
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Geez. This is interesting. Fretting is a known phenomena. I suppose no one knows why design flaws actually make it out.

Enabled Do you suppose if one were a new owner of such a used vehicle that getting under there and performing this procedure with the existing hardware would make sense? As far as I can tell all years and part #s are affected? I'll be getting a this wagon soon, hopefully not out of repair masochism, but out of enjoyment. Looks like this can all be done in the driveway reasonably well with the case staying on the car?
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      12-28-2019, 10:04 PM   #131
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If there's little wear to the splines, then the Loctite fix will definitely be a good prevention for wearing the splines.
If they're too worn already, it may be a little late for that.

They all had this issue, due to how the output flange is mounted/design. A pressed fit, or something to keep it from wearing would have prevented the failure from happening.



I still need to take my old TC apart to repair and rebuild. I will probably just keep it.
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      01-21-2020, 10:24 PM   #132
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I just purchased the car at 57k. On the PPI they diagnosed a bad transfer case. It did do the stutter on heavy acceleration. I got it replaced under warranty, and Loctite applied. We'll see if this holds any future issues off. I suspect it will since Loctite should mitigate any vibration pain.
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