[MetzgerMeister]

All I want to do is clean the EGR. I’m having the DPF removed, cleaned and replaced on Tuesday so I want to clean as much as I can at the same time.

There doesn’t seems to be any EGR removal diy here. That’s what I’d prefer to do, remove it and clean properly.

I live in Ireland so there’s nothing as advanced as walnut cleaning or anything of the like available here.

[robbiep]

If the EGR is working, then the simple answer is not to mess around with it.

If you really want it getting out for cleaning, then I'd suggest asking the garage that are doing the DPF work to do it at the same time. It'll probably be 10-20 minutes of work for removal, the same for refitting.

[Watsey]

Sorry, I misinterpreted. The Wynns sprays, and similar, are often marketed for IM cleaning so I thought that's where you were going with this.

When the EGR was removed from my car as part of the recall the dealer stated that it just needed a mild clean.

The IM and inlet ports were caked in oily soot and hardened coke. That's where I'd focus.

[MetzgerMeister]

Originally Posted by Watsey

Sorry, I misinterpreted. The Wynns sprays, and similar, are often marketed for IM cleaning so I thought that's where you were going with this.

When the EGR was removed from my car as part of the recall the dealer stated that it just needed a mild clean.

The IM and inlet ports were caked in oily soot and hardened coke. That's where I'd focus.

My car only has 65,000 km on it which is very low for my DPF needing to be removed and cleaned but it's down to a lot of short journeys. When my EGR was checked all I was told was it didn't need the fix. Nothing about it needing a clean or anything like that.

Also, I take it that it's the DPF pressure sensor that measures/estimates the amount of soot in a DPF? From the info BimmerLink is giving me, the soot level has been stuck at 60g for the last week or so. I'm unsure as to whether or not this is true or the sensor is gone. I guess I'll find out tomorrow once the DPF is back on.

[Watsey]

Originally Posted by MetzgerMeister

My car only has 65,000 km on it which is very low for my DPF needing to be removed and cleaned but it's down to a lot of short journeys. When my EGR was checked all I was told was it didn't need the fix. Nothing about it needing a clean or anything like that.

Also, I take it that it's the DPF pressure sensor that measures/estimates the amount of soot in a DPF? From the info BimmerLink is giving me, the soot level has been stuck at 60g for the last week or so. I'm unsure as to whether or not this is true or the sensor is gone. I guess I'll find out tomorrow once the DPF is back on.

There are a few options for the DPF :

Carly has a 'force DPF regen' module which costs ~£10 to activate. I don't know whether you have a Carly compatible OBD dongle.

Use an App such as OBDFusion (which will probably be compatible with the OBD dongle that you're using with BimmerCode) to monitor the catalyst temperature. On the diesels the catalyst temp will be the DPF and will also give you the exhaust gas temps (near enough) as the DPF is pretty close to the exhaust manifold. Take the car for a decent drive and watch for the catalyst temp rising into the 500C+ range under normal driving. Mine did that the other day : 550C on a gentle run, dropping down to 150-350C after a few minutes.

Once you've seen or forced a DPF regen, take another look at the recorded soot and ash levels to see whether there's been any difference.

[Ab16ldn]

my 318d is now in the same boat did you manage to fix it?

[MetzgerMeister]

Watsey - I switched to a Bluetooth coding reader for use with BimmerLink recently and I find it much more stable. BimmerLink is about €50 and has everything included rather than having to pay for individual items.

Anyway I took the car for a drive last week and I kept an eye on the soot level which had been stuck at 60g in the hope of a passive regen. All of a sudden it dropped to 59 and my heart nearly burst with joy. Once I was back home it was down to 12g.

I did a forced regen yesterday and it brought it from 40g down to 5g. All is well again. I’m well versed in how the forced regen works which is how I knew there was an issue. The temp would rise only to fall down again. This time it stayed at 516 degrees for the duration of the regen.

Ab - Moral of the story is don’t allow it to go high and if it does just take it for a proper drive allowing it to heat up. Also let the engine high up in the Rev range.

[B1ue52]

Originally Posted by MetzgerMeister

What steps are involved in the wynns EGR cleaner? Do you remove/loosen the air filter cover, remove the filter and spray it in there with the engine warm and running? N57 330d is what I’ll be doing it on.

I just remove the MAF, clean that with MAF cleaner and whilst it's drying use the EGR cleaner. Or you can just use EGR cleaner on both. Just follow the instructions on the can and spray a little at a time until the can runs out. Prepare for your car to make some horrid knocking noises when you do it though.

I agree with a watsey if your EGR valve is already filthy but as a preventative measure every oil change it can't hurt, especially for a couple of quid

[MetzgerMeister]

Thanks Blue.

What I might do is just wait until I get an actual EGR fault. As they say, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

[Spencer786]

(I'll be honest, I haven't read through this previous post)

I thought I'd just mention that my local Dealership just carried out an EGR replacement FOR FREE (i.e. on an overdue recall) for my 2012 320d ED with 97000 miles on it.

They had been servicing the car over the last 2 years but overlooked the recall -even though I asked them at the showroom service desk, about recall work, some 8 months ago, "computer says -no" was the reply (usually is). Got a call out of the blue, booked it in and they did it.

[SpilltheBimms]

Originally Posted by alex-xs

I have twice a year the same errors, saw the replace manual on ista, connect before fit will do the job, it will retract the postion a bit.
I ordered the clamps, will try to clean it first

couldn't find the reset adaptation thing in ista anyway....

I'm sorry to bring this post back from the past

I'm having codes

255B00
255C00
257E00
272E00

I took out the EGR valve, gave it a cleaning, put it back in, connected it, and made the adaptation procedures.

Some time later, the errors came back. I took another look at the valve and saw that it's not mechanically sound. Operating it manually, It's sticking a lot when fully opened, and the shaft also has some give. I'm deciding for a new one.

However, looking at the post in quotes, I now think that I might've helped to ruin the valve. The first time I disassembled and cleaned it, I put it back in without it being electrically connected (so it was fully closed/retracted). With a bit of fiddling, I managed to fit it in, it was tight but considering the material, dimensional tolerances, and placement/interference of other parts, I didn't gave it a lot of importance.
I also ran the adaptation after the cleaning and refit.

So, my questions are:

Why does it have to be connected before going in? Isn't the spring retracting (closing) the valve fully already? Or am I being confused by the term "retract" used in the post quoted above, and the author actually meant "extend"/open? If so, do I have to use ISTA+ to command the valve to open, or just connecting the valve to the plug will suffice?

Also, now that I'm going for a new valve, why is the adaptation made with the old one? Isn't the procedure just the ECU mechanically sweeping the limits of the moving parts, and making note of the values? Shouldn't that be made on the new part?
alex-xs said "many thanks, found in ISTA how to reset, and it has to be done before fitting the new EGR valve."

I'm a noob with ISTA+, but in the procedure "Remove and install/renew the exhaust-gas recirculation valve (EGR)" only at the end it says "Assemble engine. Check function of DDE." I believe that's the adaptation part(?).

I'm on an F31 20d N47.

Thank you, take care.

[Fudz]

Originally Posted by MetzgerMeister

I live in Ireland so there’s nothing as advanced as walnut cleaning or anything of the like available here.

Where approximately are you, I know a few places do it in the North.

I doubt no one does it in the south also.

[F30_320D_UK]

Originally Posted by SpilltheBimms

I'm sorry to bring this post back from the past

I'm having codes

255B00
255C00
257E00
272E00

I took out the EGR valve, gave it a cleaning, put it back in, connected it, and made the adaptation procedures.

Some time later, the errors came back. I took another look at the valve and saw that it's not mechanically sound. Operating it manually, It's sticking a lot when fully opened, and the shaft also has some give. I'm deciding for a new one.

However, looking at the post in quotes, I now think that I might've helped to ruin the valve. The first time I disassembled and cleaned it, I put it back in without it being electrically connected (so it was fully closed/retracted). With a bit of fiddling, I managed to fit it in, it was tight but considering the material, dimensional tolerances, and placement/interference of other parts, I didn't gave it a lot of importance.
I also ran the adaptation after the cleaning and refit.

So, my questions are:

Why does it have to be connected before going in? Isn't the spring retracting (closing) the valve fully already? Or am I being confused by the term "retract" used in the post quoted above, and the author actually meant "extend"/open? If so, do I have to use ISTA+ to command the valve to open, or just connecting the valve to the plug will suffice?

Also, now that I'm going for a new valve, why is the adaptation made with the old one? Isn't the procedure just the ECU mechanically sweeping the limits of the moving parts, and making note of the values? Shouldn't that be made on the new part?
alex-xs said "many thanks, found in ISTA how to reset, and it has to be done before fitting the new EGR valve."

I'm a noob with ISTA+, but in the procedure "Remove and install/renew the exhaust-gas recirculation valve (EGR)" only at the end it says "Assemble engine. Check function of DDE." I believe that's the adaptation part(?).

I'm on an F31 20d N47.

Thank you, take care.

Hoping someone answers you, as I’m keen to do this as a DIY too

[SpilltheBimms]

Originally Posted by F30_320D_UK

Hoping someone answers you, as I’m keen to do this as a DIY too

I ended up buying a new valve, reseting adaptations via ISTA+, letting the car go to sleep, and replacing old valve with the new one (as per ISTA+ procedure instructions). I still don't know why the readaptation is made before replacing the hardware, nor why it helps to connect the valve electricaly, before you insert it. Car battery was on, but the valve didn't move when I connected it to the electrical plug.
Did it a few weeks ago, no errors since.

FYI: Original valve showed Whaler brand. Bought new valve from Metzger. Arrived with both brands, Wahler and Metzger marked on the metal body and plastic cover. So... are Wahler and Metzger the same company?..

A friend with an F36 (20D) reported that he had original valve from Pierburg and replaced with same brand.

Anyway, good luck

Tip: I managed to not lose any coolant, by releasing pressure from the system BEFORE unplugging the coolant tubes from the valve body.
I opened the coolant reservoir cap (to let pressure equalize to atmosphere), then I closed the coolant reservoir cap again.
Because the tubes diameter is quite small, there's a bit of capilary effect, that helps the coolant remain inside the tubes.
It also helps to keep them pointing up, while the valve body is being replaced.

[kiteboy]

Est ce que quelqu’un sait si sur f31 330d moteur n57 il faut faire cette adaptation pour vannd egr ? Je ne m’en sors pas j’ai mis vanne neuve pierburg (avant c’était une whaler) et toujours un code defaut 255b00 ????

J’ai cherché dans ista + mais je ne vois pas ou il faut faire une adaptation ??
Ce sont des vannes complètement pilotées par moteur électrique et non via roue crantée etccc comme on peut voir sur n47 etccc