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      10-17-2016, 01:06 PM   #23
beppeM3+123d
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roxxor
Quote:
Originally Posted by beppeM3+123d View Post
Hi Roxxor i made several test about door lock:
- 2 friend of mine have bmw f15 and f20 equipped with s302 and i double check that the door lock is not dead
- i made a test on bmw e87 of another friend equipped with s302 and door lock is DIED ( glass down and alarm inserted)

- if the european left drive door locker are the same from e series, why in the f series also in Europe is not working this fantastic feature?

- if you check etk from usa there are no difference between door locker and s302 is not relevant; if you check Europe 8TGA seems to be the antitheft system for door lock, so probably only need vo coding.

What did you think about this?
As I mentioned above, I did not actually replace the door lock modules on mine, so it is not an area I am too familiar with. In my research, it did seem that the E-series were all equipped with the dead-locking system, possibly because there was a factory alarm retrofit option. For whatever reason, on the F-series that did not include the alarm, and apparently on some other models, BMW decided to go with a different lock system.
Just to close the black hole about 8tg alarm option on Europe cars are not equipped with cables because i vo code cars equipped with 302 but the locks still works and don't die with closing of car.
I am not able to say if is only cable or also door lock the problem.

By the way my car with cables added and door lock changed, and car coded have 8tg option working!
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      10-19-2016, 12:07 AM   #24
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Thumbs up

Just wanted to thank the OP for this awesome DIY. I finished mine today and had someone code it.

Only issue is that the alarm goes off by itself 4 minutes after I arm it. anyone seen this?
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      10-20-2016, 01:18 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWMPR View Post
If there is someone that would like to do this alarm retrofit, I have for sale all the needed parts.
Do you have the 61319351186 console? I am looking to buy another one as I am having a false alarm issue with the one I have. How much do you want for it? Please PM me.
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      10-20-2016, 06:28 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lagwag0n View Post
Do you have the 61319351186 console? I am looking to buy another one as I am having a false alarm issue with the one I have. How much do you want for it? Please PM me.
Yes, I have it. Pm sent.
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      10-21-2016, 12:22 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWMPR View Post
Yes, I have it. Pm sent.
I changed my mind on this. Gonna wait to see if roxxor comes around again and see if he can assist me in troubleshooting my issue.

BMW refuses to take the part I bought back.
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      11-29-2016, 06:38 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roxxor View Post
Like many, I was surprised to learn after purchase that my $40k+ car did not come with a factory alarm. I did not want to go aftermarket since there are no “recommended” remote start options for BMW, so I decided to retrofit the OEM alarm.

Total cost for this ended up being around $180 USD, not factoring the extra money recovered from selling the original Roof Module. Patience and waiting for finding good deals on the auction sites makes it much more reasonable than buying parts new.

DISCLAIMER: As with all DIY projects, undertake this at your own risk. I am not responsible for anything that happens to you or your car! With that said, on to the write-up!

Pre-Requisites: About the only thing you need to make sure your car has is a mirror that has the alarm LED dome. Most US model F30’s should already have this. If yours does not, you will need to replace your rear-view mirror. Additionally, this retrofit requires you to have E-Sys(for coding the replacement module) and Rheingold/ISTA(if equipped with Sunroof, as you will need to re-initialize your sunroof once you install the new roof console)

OPTIONAL ADDITIONS: With this retrofit, there are 2 additional optional items that I opted not to do, that you can do if you so desire:
- Replacement Key Fobs – You can obtain replacement Key Fobs that have the Panic Button
- Replacement Door Latches – The F30’s that include the factory alarm feature the “dead-locking” doors which, when the doors are locked via remote/Comfort Access, make it so that the doors cannot be opened from the inside. Those in the U.S. without the factory alarm likely do not have this feature. Easiest way to test is to roll down your windows, lock the door via remote, then without the key on or near you, try to open a door by reaching inside and using the interior door handle. If it opens, you do not have the dead-locking door latches. Not having these type of door locks does not affect the alarm function at all, as I tested it by doing the above and the alarm will trigger. You can opt to replace these with the dead-locking door latches for around $150.00(total for all 4 doors) if you buy them used online. Replacing these does not require re-keying the car, as it doesn’t change the key cylinder, just the part inside the door that latches to the body of the car when the door is closed.

Parts List: (Note: Part #’s may vary per vehicle. Parts listed below are for a US F30 sedan. Check RealOEM or ETK to confirm correct Part #’s for your vehicle)

- Roof Function Center – There are several variants of this part depending on if your car has a Sunroof or the Teleservices/SOS call button, which can be seen here on RealOEM. Since I had both of those options, I used part #61319351186.
- Alarm Siren – 65759198581(there are several different part numbers for this, any of them should be fine)
- Bracket, Alternative Power Siren – 65759224277
- Hex Nut - Qty. 1 – 07129904870
- Rep. Kit for Socket Housing – Qty. 1 – 61132359998
- Socket Contact w/ Grommet – Qty. 3 - 61130005199
- Bushing/Socket Contact – Qty. 3 – 61130005197
- Double Leaf Spring Contact – Qty. 1 – 61130007437
- OEM Wire Tap – Qty. 1 - 61138364566



Tools Required:
- Jack/Jack Stands/Lug Nut Tool
- Socket Set with 10mm and 8mm sockets
- Hex/T set – This project requires a T-35/T-40 bit for removing the Trunk Lining
- Flat Screwdriver/Pry tool for removing the plastic expanding rivets
- Wire Stripper
- Wire connectors/solder depending on your preference
- 3 different colors of 18 gauge wire (alternatively, you can use different color electrical tape/labels to identify wires)
- Standard black electrical tape
- 2 additional colors of electrical tape (I used Red and Yellow during this retrofit)

Prep Work:
- Disconnect Negative Terminal from Battery – Make sure sunroof is closed(if equipped), all doors are unlocked, and trunk is open first
- Remove the Left Side Trunk Lining
- Next, jack up the left side of the car at the front and place a jack stand under the left rear jack point
- Remove the left rear wheel

Creating the Siren Wiring:
- With the left rear wheel removed, use the Socket Set and the pry tool to remove all of the expanding rivets and nuts from the wheel well lining. Once all are removed, pull down to remove the lining from the car
- You should now be able to look up and see the space where the siren will be installed. To the right of that space, you should also see a large black grommet where the existing wiring runs to the inside of the car, as shown below



- Now, you will need to create a harness using the 3 different color wires. For the purpose of the rest of the write-up, I will be referencing the colors I used, which are Red(power), Black(ground), and Yellow(signal)
- Wrap about 1 foot of the wires together using black electrical tape
- Next, using a screwdriver, punch a hole in the black grommet to make an opening for the wire harness to run through
- STARTING FROM INSIDE THE CAR, push the wire harness through to the outside of the car
- Once you have the wires through the grommet, you can now attach the three socket contacts w/ grommets to the harness, and then attach them to the connector. As I attached each contact, I would then connect it to its’ proper connector slot so as not mix up the wires. Wire connections are as follows:
- Red(Power) to Pin Slot #3
- Black(Ground) to Pin Slot #1
- Yellow(Signal) to Pin Slot #2

- Once you have inserted the wires into the connector, finish wrapping the connectors with some electrical tape/heat shrink to secure them together

Mounting the Siren:
- Mount the siren to the Bracket using the Hex Nut and tighten it in place. It will only properly fit in one direction, as shown below:



- Next, connect the Siren Wire Harness to the Siren, then slide the siren bracket up into place inside the wheel well
- Once the Siren is in place, you can replace the wheel well lining and all plastic rivets/nuts
- Replace the left rear wheel and lower the car, remembering to tighten the wheel once lowered

Connecting the Siren Wiring:
- The connecting point for the Black(ground) wire is actually very close to where the wires enter the car, as shown below:



- Using an OEM wire tap, connect the Black(ground) wire to one of the medium sized Brown ground wires, as shown below:



- Next, run the Red(Power) wire along the wiring bundle across the trunk floor to the Rear Fuse Block, which is located on the far right side of the first picture above
- Remove the 10mm Hex Nut to loosen the Fuse Box
- Connect the Double Leaf Spring Contact to the Red(power) wire, then insert the contact into the slot for Fuse F103. On my car, even though there was no existing wire in the slot for F103, there was already a 5A Fuse present. If yours does not have a 5A Fuse in the slot, then you will need to obtain one
- Lastly, begin the process of running the Yellow(Signal) wire towards the front roof control panel. You can choose to either run it up the C-Pillar and then along to the front of the car, as I did, or you can run it along the bottom of the car and then up the A-Pillar. The preference is yours.

Installing the new Roof Function Module and Wiring:
- Start by removing the old roof module by using your fingers to pull down on the trim panel towards the sunroof area
- Once the trim is removed, you will notice one small rectangular hole on each side. Use the flat headed screwdriver to push the clip inside that slot towards the middle of the module while pulling down to release it. Repeat for the other side
- Now that the module is loose, disconnect all wiring harnesses from the module
- Next, pull apart the trim above the rear view mirror to expose the wiring connector for the mirror
- The picture below shows the open space from the roof module, as well as the wiring path and where the wires will be run to: (note: removing the rear-view mirror is not necessary, it just made it easier to handle the wiring)



- Finish running the Yellow(Signal) wire as shown, and then connect one of the Socket Contacts to the end of the wire. Insert the connector into Pin Slot #11 of the Large 16 Pin Black connector that attached to the right side of the Roof Module(not shown in the above picture).
- Next, take the remaining two Socket Contacts and connect them together in the middle
- Insert one connector end into Pin Slot #3 of the same Large 16 Pin Black connector that you inserted the signal wire into
- Run the wire along the red path shown above, and insert the other end into Pin Slot #9 of the Black 10-Pin Mirror connector
- Replace the mirror trim pieces
- Reconnect all wiring harnesses to the New Roof Function Module, and then carefully insert it into place and reattach the trim piece.

At this point, all connections are completed and everything physically should be in place, now on to the coding!

Vehicle Coding:
- Reconnect the Negative Battery Terminal to restore power to the car
- Connect to the car via E-Sys. After connecting, the first step will be to add Option 302 to your FA. Follow the steps in the E-Sys learning guides if you are unfamiliar with how to complete this step
- Once you have updated your FA with the new option code, you will need to create 2 new Cafd files for your new FZD(roof) Module. However, you will need to know your car’s current I-Step Level first
- To find this, go to the Expert Mode-VCM Screen. Under I-Steps, click Read. Your current I-Step level will then be displayed, as shown below. Take down this information, and save for future reference if needed.

SHOWN FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY:


- Now, you can create the CAFD files. On the Expert Mode-Coding screen, if you click Read (ECU), you should now see the FZD listed as one of the modules on your car. However, it will be missing the CAFD files. Highlight the FZD, then click Detect CAF for SWE. When the window shown below comes up, you may have several options available:



- You will need to select the option that matches your car’s current I-Step Level, or is close to it(My I-Step level is F020-13-03-503, however that option was not listed. So I chose the one that also ended with 503 and had no issues). NOTE: The FZD requires both CAFD Files to be present. After finding the correct I-Step Level, hold down CTRL and select both CAFD options, and hit Ok. This will create the CAFD files for the FZD.
- Now all that is left is to VO Code the updated FA to the car. Activate the FA. At a minimum, you will need to code the FZD, REM, HU_CIC/NBT, and FEM modules. Personally, whenever I complete a retrofit, I code the new FA to all modules in the car in the event that there is something related to the new retrofit in that module that may have been missed. How you code is up to you, but by coding them all, it avoids the risk of missing something.

Sunroof Initialization(Only required if your car is equipped with a Sunroof):
Connect to the car via Rheingold/ISTA. Once you have connected, you will go to Service Functions -> Body -> Locks -> Sunroof Initialize, and follow the on screen prompts to re-initialize the Sunroof, as it will not function without this step being completed.

Testing/Reassembly of the car:
Once you have completed all coding, turn the car off, and exit the vehicle. If you press lock/unlock on the remote, you should now hear the audible sound when the car locks/unlocks. You can also test the alarm as I described above in the Optional Additions section. Once you are satisfied that it works, you can replace any remaining trim pieces in the car, and you are all done!

Congrats! You now have a functional OEM alarm for your F30!
Is it possible to do this retrofit in a car without sunroof?
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      11-29-2016, 08:05 AM   #29
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Sure is, you would just find the part number for and order the roof control module without the sunroof button. All functions will still be the same.
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      11-29-2016, 10:58 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roxxor View Post
Sure is, you would just find the part number for and order the roof control module without the sunroof button. All functions will still be the same.
Oh really? apart from the Roof control centre itself, seems I need to change the Headlining and Brackets for roof control centre installation ?
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      02-18-2017, 09:30 PM   #31
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Is there a constant 12V wire on the connector to Roof Function Center? If so, what is the pin number? I am looking for always-on 12V for the dash cam that is installed behind the rear-view mirror.
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      02-19-2017, 12:17 AM   #32
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Thanks for the tutorial
Mounting on bmw M235i and works perfectly
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      02-19-2017, 03:35 AM   #33
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I had the BMW Assist Retrofit done on my car - are there different part numbers that I would need to do this?
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      04-02-2017, 01:03 AM   #34
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Well finally got around to completing the retrofit.

I will say this, everything is pretty straight forward, everything as far difficulty is in the coding. I had to play with the coding in a few modules and change a few aktiv to on.

Only issue is, my siren doesnt honk when i lock it. My clown nose is blinking, and showing the vehicle is armed. If i stay in the vehicle and move just a bit, the alarm will activate, but i know it activated because the clown nose will blink much faster. However, no siren.

Either

a. my siren doesnt work, wish there was a way of testing it. maybe connecting it my battery and using the positive wire to both signal and positive to see if itll trigger a siren, but dont know if i want to risk burning my siren, if it is working.

b. coding, which i made sure all accoustic codes were on. maybe i missed a module, but i mainly focused on fzd, rem, nib, fem. I didnt look through other cafds.

c. Wiring, so far, i wired it straight to the positive fuse as it said in the diy, F 103 in the trunk. Grounded to a screw i screwed, i didnt want to splice into the bundle. I know ground is good to go because i have my amp using that same wire. Signal, wire is good to go pin 3 to the connector in the roof module.


any suggestions?

Thinking of returning the siren back to ebay seller.

Last edited by SMiGGs; 04-05-2017 at 04:51 PM..
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      04-25-2017, 04:21 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMiGGs View Post
Well finally got around to completing the retrofit.

I will say this, everything is pretty straight forward, everything as far difficulty is in the coding. I had to play with the coding in a few modules and change a few aktiv to on.

Only issue is, my siren doesnt honk when i lock it. My clown nose is blinking, and showing the vehicle is armed. If i stay in the vehicle and move just a bit, the alarm will activate, but i know it activated because the clown nose will blink much faster. However, no siren.

Either

a. my siren doesnt work, wish there was a way of testing it. maybe connecting it my battery and using the positive wire to both signal and positive to see if itll trigger a siren, but dont know if i want to risk burning my siren, if it is working.

b. coding, which i made sure all accoustic codes were on. maybe i missed a module, but i mainly focused on fzd, rem, nib, fem. I didnt look through other cafds.

c. Wiring, so far, i wired it straight to the positive fuse as it said in the diy, F 103 in the trunk. Grounded to a screw i screwed, i didnt want to splice into the bundle. I know ground is good to go because i have my amp using that same wire. Signal, wire is good to go pin 3 to the connector in the roof module.


any suggestions?

Thinking of returning the siren back to ebay seller.

Have you figured this out already? What was it if you did?
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      04-26-2017, 09:00 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdmdc5teg06 View Post
Have you figured this out already? What was it if you did?
Im going to test the siren directly to a 12 volt source today, i havent been able to find a reasonably priced siren on ebay for me to continue this as well. Ill update as soon as possible, I think wiring the siren will be pretty simple than the original post, since the wire from the alarm module sends the signal to the siren to activate, so positive could be shortly wired to a 12v on/off fuse in panel, and regular ground, but ill reconfirm, just to simplify the diy for others, since i struggled a bit.

Currently working on a diy for a head up display for the f30, so im looking for a siren and hud module.
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      05-24-2017, 11:23 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roxxor View Post
Like many, I was surprised to learn after purchase that my $40k+ car did not come with a factory alarm. I did not want to go aftermarket since there are no “recommended” remote start options for BMW, so I decided to retrofit the OEM alarm.

Total cost for this ended up being around $180 USD, not factoring the extra money recovered from selling the original Roof Module. Patience and waiting for finding good deals on the auction sites makes it much more reasonable than buying parts new.

DISCLAIMER: As with all DIY projects, undertake this at your own risk. I am not responsible for anything that happens to you or your car! With that said, on to the write-up!

Pre-Requisites: About the only thing you need to make sure your car has is a mirror that has the alarm LED dome. Most US model F30’s should already have this. If yours does not, you will need to replace your rear-view mirror. Additionally, this retrofit requires you to have E-Sys(for coding the replacement module) and Rheingold/ISTA(if equipped with Sunroof, as you will need to re-initialize your sunroof once you install the new roof console)

OPTIONAL ADDITIONS: With this retrofit, there are 2 additional optional items that I opted not to do, that you can do if you so desire:
- Replacement Key Fobs – You can obtain replacement Key Fobs that have the Panic Button
- Replacement Door Latches – The F30’s that include the factory alarm feature the “dead-locking” doors which, when the doors are locked via remote/Comfort Access, make it so that the doors cannot be opened from the inside. Those in the U.S. without the factory alarm likely do not have this feature. Easiest way to test is to roll down your windows, lock the door via remote, then without the key on or near you, try to open a door by reaching inside and using the interior door handle. If it opens, you do not have the dead-locking door latches. Not having these type of door locks does not affect the alarm function at all, as I tested it by doing the above and the alarm will trigger. You can opt to replace these with the dead-locking door latches for around $150.00(total for all 4 doors) if you buy them used online. Replacing these does not require re-keying the car, as it doesn’t change the key cylinder, just the part inside the door that latches to the body of the car when the door is closed.

Parts List: (Note: Part #’s may vary per vehicle. Parts listed below are for a US F30 sedan. Check RealOEM or ETK to confirm correct Part #’s for your vehicle)

- Roof Function Center – There are several variants of this part depending on if your car has a Sunroof or the Teleservices/SOS call button, which can be seen here on RealOEM. Since I had both of those options, I used part #61319351186.
- Alarm Siren – 65759198581(there are several different part numbers for this, any of them should be fine)
- Bracket, Alternative Power Siren – 65759224277
- Hex Nut - Qty. 1 – 07129904870
- Rep. Kit for Socket Housing – Qty. 1 – 61132359998
- Socket Contact w/ Grommet – Qty. 3 - 61130005199
- Bushing/Socket Contact – Qty. 3 – 61130005197
- Double Leaf Spring Contact – Qty. 1 – 61130007437
- OEM Wire Tap – Qty. 1 - 61138364566



Tools Required:
- Jack/Jack Stands/Lug Nut Tool
- Socket Set with 10mm and 8mm sockets
- Hex/T set – This project requires a T-35/T-40 bit for removing the Trunk Lining
- Flat Screwdriver/Pry tool for removing the plastic expanding rivets
- Wire Stripper
- Wire connectors/solder depending on your preference
- 3 different colors of 18 gauge wire (alternatively, you can use different color electrical tape/labels to identify wires)
- Standard black electrical tape
- 2 additional colors of electrical tape (I used Red and Yellow during this retrofit)

Prep Work:
- Disconnect Negative Terminal from Battery – Make sure sunroof is closed(if equipped), all doors are unlocked, and trunk is open first
- Remove the Left Side Trunk Lining
- Next, jack up the left side of the car at the front and place a jack stand under the left rear jack point
- Remove the left rear wheel

Creating the Siren Wiring:
- With the left rear wheel removed, use the Socket Set and the pry tool to remove all of the expanding rivets and nuts from the wheel well lining. Once all are removed, pull down to remove the lining from the car
- You should now be able to look up and see the space where the siren will be installed. To the right of that space, you should also see a large black grommet where the existing wiring runs to the inside of the car, as shown below



- Now, you will need to create a harness using the 3 different color wires. For the purpose of the rest of the write-up, I will be referencing the colors I used, which are Red(power), Black(ground), and Yellow(signal)
- Wrap about 1 foot of the wires together using black electrical tape
- Next, using a screwdriver, punch a hole in the black grommet to make an opening for the wire harness to run through
- STARTING FROM INSIDE THE CAR, push the wire harness through to the outside of the car
- Once you have the wires through the grommet, you can now attach the three socket contacts w/ grommets to the harness, and then attach them to the connector. As I attached each contact, I would then connect it to its’ proper connector slot so as not mix up the wires. Wire connections are as follows:
- Red(Power) to Pin Slot #3
- Black(Ground) to Pin Slot #1
- Yellow(Signal) to Pin Slot #2

- Once you have inserted the wires into the connector, finish wrapping the connectors with some electrical tape/heat shrink to secure them together

Mounting the Siren:
- Mount the siren to the Bracket using the Hex Nut and tighten it in place. It will only properly fit in one direction, as shown below:



- Next, connect the Siren Wire Harness to the Siren, then slide the siren bracket up into place inside the wheel well
- Once the Siren is in place, you can replace the wheel well lining and all plastic rivets/nuts
- Replace the left rear wheel and lower the car, remembering to tighten the wheel once lowered

Connecting the Siren Wiring:
- The connecting point for the Black(ground) wire is actually very close to where the wires enter the car, as shown below:



- Using an OEM wire tap, connect the Black(ground) wire to one of the medium sized Brown ground wires, as shown below:



- Next, run the Red(Power) wire along the wiring bundle across the trunk floor to the Rear Fuse Block, which is located on the far right side of the first picture above
- Remove the 10mm Hex Nut to loosen the Fuse Box
- Connect the Double Leaf Spring Contact to the Red(power) wire, then insert the contact into the slot for Fuse F103. On my car, even though there was no existing wire in the slot for F103, there was already a 5A Fuse present. If yours does not have a 5A Fuse in the slot, then you will need to obtain one
- Lastly, begin the process of running the Yellow(Signal) wire towards the front roof control panel. You can choose to either run it up the C-Pillar and then along to the front of the car, as I did, or you can run it along the bottom of the car and then up the A-Pillar. The preference is yours.

Installing the new Roof Function Module and Wiring:
- Start by removing the old roof module by using your fingers to pull down on the trim panel towards the sunroof area
- Once the trim is removed, you will notice one small rectangular hole on each side. Use the flat headed screwdriver to push the clip inside that slot towards the middle of the module while pulling down to release it. Repeat for the other side
- Now that the module is loose, disconnect all wiring harnesses from the module
- Next, pull apart the trim above the rear view mirror to expose the wiring connector for the mirror
- The picture below shows the open space from the roof module, as well as the wiring path and where the wires will be run to: (note: removing the rear-view mirror is not necessary, it just made it easier to handle the wiring)



- Finish running the Yellow(Signal) wire as shown, and then connect one of the Socket Contacts to the end of the wire. Insert the connector into Pin Slot #11 of the Large 16 Pin Black connector that attached to the right side of the Roof Module(not shown in the above picture).
- Next, take the remaining two Socket Contacts and connect them together in the middle
- Insert one connector end into Pin Slot #3 of the same Large 16 Pin Black connector that you inserted the signal wire into
- Run the wire along the red path shown above, and insert the other end into Pin Slot #9 of the Black 10-Pin Mirror connector
- Replace the mirror trim pieces
- Reconnect all wiring harnesses to the New Roof Function Module, and then carefully insert it into place and reattach the trim piece.

At this point, all connections are completed and everything physically should be in place, now on to the coding!

Vehicle Coding:
- Reconnect the Negative Battery Terminal to restore power to the car
- Connect to the car via E-Sys. After connecting, the first step will be to add Option 302 to your FA. Follow the steps in the E-Sys learning guides if you are unfamiliar with how to complete this step
- Once you have updated your FA with the new option code, you will need to create 2 new Cafd files for your new FZD(roof) Module. However, you will need to know your car’s current I-Step Level first
- To find this, go to the Expert Mode-VCM Screen. Under I-Steps, click Read. Your current I-Step level will then be displayed, as shown below. Take down this information, and save for future reference if needed.

SHOWN FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY:


- Now, you can create the CAFD files. On the Expert Mode-Coding screen, if you click Read (ECU), you should now see the FZD listed as one of the modules on your car. However, it will be missing the CAFD files. Highlight the FZD, then click Detect CAF for SWE. When the window shown below comes up, you may have several options available:



- You will need to select the option that matches your car’s current I-Step Level, or is close to it(My I-Step level is F020-13-03-503, however that option was not listed. So I chose the one that also ended with 503 and had no issues). NOTE: The FZD requires both CAFD Files to be present. After finding the correct I-Step Level, hold down CTRL and select both CAFD options, and hit Ok. This will create the CAFD files for the FZD.
- Now all that is left is to VO Code the updated FA to the car. Activate the FA. At a minimum, you will need to code the FZD, REM, HU_CIC/NBT, and FEM modules. Personally, whenever I complete a retrofit, I code the new FA to all modules in the car in the event that there is something related to the new retrofit in that module that may have been missed. How you code is up to you, but by coding them all, it avoids the risk of missing something.

Sunroof Initialization(Only required if your car is equipped with a Sunroof):
Connect to the car via Rheingold/ISTA. Once you have connected, you will go to Service Functions -> Body -> Locks -> Sunroof Initialize, and follow the on screen prompts to re-initialize the Sunroof, as it will not function without this step being completed.

Testing/Reassembly of the car:
Once you have completed all coding, turn the car off, and exit the vehicle. If you press lock/unlock on the remote, you should now hear the audible sound when the car locks/unlocks. You can also test the alarm as I described above in the Optional Additions section. Once you are satisfied that it works, you can replace any remaining trim pieces in the car, and you are all done!

Congrats! You now have a functional OEM alarm for your F30!
ROXXOR,

I just purchased a 2013 328i which does not have an alarm. I saw this post and I'm trying to figure out if its something I'm able to do.
My car has a Sunroof and the Teleservices/SOS module. Is there a way to know if I can use this module for this retrofit?

Thanks
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      05-24-2017, 12:57 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roxxor View Post
Like many, I was surprised to learn after purchase that my $40k+ car did not come with a factory alarm. I did not want to go aftermarket since there are no “recommended” remote start options for BMW, so I decided to retrofit the OEM alarm.

Total cost for this ended up being around $180 USD, not factoring the extra money recovered from selling the original Roof Module. Patience and waiting for finding good deals on the auction sites makes it much more reasonable than buying parts new.

DISCLAIMER: As with all DIY projects, undertake this at your own risk. I am not responsible for anything that happens to you or your car! With that said, on to the write-up!

Pre-Requisites: About the only thing you need to make sure your car has is a mirror that has the alarm LED dome. Most US model F30Â’s should already have this. If yours does not, you will need to replace your rear-view mirror. Additionally, this retrofit requires you to have E-Sys(for coding the replacement module) and Rheingold/ISTA(if equipped with Sunroof, as you will need to re-initialize your sunroof once you install the new roof console)

OPTIONAL ADDITIONS: With this retrofit, there are 2 additional optional items that I opted not to do, that you can do if you so desire:
- Replacement Key Fobs – You can obtain replacement Key Fobs that have the Panic Button
- Replacement Door Latches – The F30’s that include the factory alarm feature the “dead-locking” doors which, when the doors are locked via remote/Comfort Access, make it so that the doors cannot be opened from the inside. Those in the U.S. without the factory alarm likely do not have this feature. Easiest way to test is to roll down your windows, lock the door via remote, then without the key on or near you, try to open a door by reaching inside and using the interior door handle. If it opens, you do not have the dead-locking door latches. Not having these type of door locks does not affect the alarm function at all, as I tested it by doing the above and the alarm will trigger. You can opt to replace these with the dead-locking door latches for around $150.00(total for all 4 doors) if you buy them used online. Replacing these does not require re-keying the car, as it doesn’t change the key cylinder, just the part inside the door that latches to the body of the car when the door is closed.

Parts List: (Note: Part #Â’s may vary per vehicle. Parts listed below are for a US F30 sedan. Check RealOEM or ETK to confirm correct Part #Â’s for your vehicle)

- Roof Function Center – There are several variants of this part depending on if your car has a Sunroof or the Teleservices/SOS call button, which can be seen here on RealOEM. Since I had both of those options, I used part #61319351186.
- Alarm Siren – 65759198581(there are several different part numbers for this, any of them should be fine)
- Bracket, Alternative Power Siren – 65759224277
- Hex Nut - Qty. 1 – 07129904870
- Rep. Kit for Socket Housing – Qty. 1 – 61132359998
- Socket Contact w/ Grommet – Qty. 3 - 61130005199
- Bushing/Socket Contact – Qty. 3 – 61130005197
- Double Leaf Spring Contact – Qty. 1 – 61130007437
- OEM Wire Tap – Qty. 1 - 61138364566

[IMG]http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...f95872864f.jpg[/IMG]

Tools Required:
- Jack/Jack Stands/Lug Nut Tool
- Socket Set with 10mm and 8mm sockets
- Hex/T set – This project requires a T-35/T-40 bit for removing the Trunk Lining
- Flat Screwdriver/Pry tool for removing the plastic expanding rivets
- Wire Stripper
- Wire connectors/solder depending on your preference
- 3 different colors of 18 gauge wire (alternatively, you can use different color electrical tape/labels to identify wires)
- Standard black electrical tape
- 2 additional colors of electrical tape (I used Red and Yellow during this retrofit)

Prep Work:
- Disconnect Negative Terminal from Battery – Make sure sunroof is closed(if equipped), all doors are unlocked, and trunk is open first
- Remove the Left Side Trunk Lining
- Next, jack up the left side of the car at the front and place a jack stand under the left rear jack point
- Remove the left rear wheel

Creating the Siren Wiring:
- With the left rear wheel removed, use the Socket Set and the pry tool to remove all of the expanding rivets and nuts from the wheel well lining. Once all are removed, pull down to remove the lining from the car
- You should now be able to look up and see the space where the siren will be installed. To the right of that space, you should also see a large black grommet where the existing wiring runs to the inside of the car, as shown below

[IMG]http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...eel%20Well.jpg[/IMG]

- Now, you will need to create a harness using the 3 different color wires. For the purpose of the rest of the write-up, I will be referencing the colors I used, which are Red(power), Black(ground), and Yellow(signal)
- Wrap about 1 foot of the wires together using black electrical tape
- Next, using a screwdriver, punch a hole in the black grommet to make an opening for the wire harness to run through
- STARTING FROM INSIDE THE CAR, push the wire harness through to the outside of the car
- Once you have the wires through the grommet, you can now attach the three socket contacts w/ grommets to the harness, and then attach them to the connector. As I attached each contact, I would then connect it to itsÂ’ proper connector slot so as not mix up the wires. Wire connections are as follows:
- Red(Power) to Pin Slot #3
- Black(Ground) to Pin Slot #1
- Yellow(Signal) to Pin Slot #2

- Once you have inserted the wires into the connector, finish wrapping the connectors with some electrical tape/heat shrink to secure them together

Mounting the Siren:
- Mount the siren to the Bracket using the Hex Nut and tighten it in place. It will only properly fit in one direction, as shown below:

[IMG]http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...%20Bracket.jpg[/IMG]

- Next, connect the Siren Wire Harness to the Siren, then slide the siren bracket up into place inside the wheel well
- Once the Siren is in place, you can replace the wheel well lining and all plastic rivets/nuts
- Replace the left rear wheel and lower the car, remembering to tighten the wheel once lowered

Connecting the Siren Wiring:
- The connecting point for the Black(ground) wire is actually very close to where the wires enter the car, as shown below:

[IMG]http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...re%20Entry.jpg[/IMG]

- Using an OEM wire tap, connect the Black(ground) wire to one of the medium sized Brown ground wires, as shown below:

[IMG]http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...ound%20Tap.jpg[/IMG]

- Next, run the Red(Power) wire along the wiring bundle across the trunk floor to the Rear Fuse Block, which is located on the far right side of the first picture above
- Remove the 10mm Hex Nut to loosen the Fuse Box
- Connect the Double Leaf Spring Contact to the Red(power) wire, then insert the contact into the slot for Fuse F103. On my car, even though there was no existing wire in the slot for F103, there was already a 5A Fuse present. If yours does not have a 5A Fuse in the slot, then you will need to obtain one
- Lastly, begin the process of running the Yellow(Signal) wire towards the front roof control panel. You can choose to either run it up the C-Pillar and then along to the front of the car, as I did, or you can run it along the bottom of the car and then up the A-Pillar. The preference is yours.

Installing the new Roof Function Module and Wiring:
- Start by removing the old roof module by using your fingers to pull down on the trim panel towards the sunroof area
- Once the trim is removed, you will notice one small rectangular hole on each side. Use the flat headed screwdriver to push the clip inside that slot towards the middle of the module while pulling down to release it. Repeat for the other side
- Now that the module is loose, disconnect all wiring harnesses from the module
- Next, pull apart the trim above the rear view mirror to expose the wiring connector for the mirror
- The picture below shows the open space from the roof module, as well as the wiring path and where the wires will be run to: (note: removing the rear-view mirror is not necessary, it just made it easier to handle the wiring)

[IMG]http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...ire%20Path.jpg[/IMG]

- Finish running the Yellow(Signal) wire as shown, and then connect one of the Socket Contacts to the end of the wire. Insert the connector into Pin Slot #11 of the Large 16 Pin Black connector that attached to the right side of the Roof Module(not shown in the above picture).
- Next, take the remaining two Socket Contacts and connect them together in the middle
- Insert one connector end into Pin Slot #3 of the same Large 16 Pin Black connector that you inserted the signal wire into
- Run the wire along the red path shown above, and insert the other end into Pin Slot #9 of the Black 10-Pin Mirror connector
- Replace the mirror trim pieces
- Reconnect all wiring harnesses to the New Roof Function Module, and then carefully insert it into place and reattach the trim piece.

At this point, all connections are completed and everything physically should be in place, now on to the coding!

Vehicle Coding:
- Reconnect the Negative Battery Terminal to restore power to the car
- Connect to the car via E-Sys. After connecting, the first step will be to add Option 302 to your FA. Follow the steps in the E-Sys learning guides if you are unfamiliar with how to complete this step
- Once you have updated your FA with the new option code, you will need to create 2 new Cafd files for your new FZD(roof) Module. However, you will need to know your carÂ’s current I-Step Level first
- To find this, go to the Expert Mode-VCM Screen. Under I-Steps, click Read. Your current I-Step level will then be displayed, as shown below. Take down this information, and save for future reference if needed.

SHOWN FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY:
[IMG]http://f10.5post.com/forums/attachme...8&d=1432571785[/IMG]

- Now, you can create the CAFD files. On the Expert Mode-Coding screen, if you click Read (ECU), you should now see the FZD listed as one of the modules on your car. However, it will be missing the CAFD files. Highlight the FZD, then click Detect CAF for SWE. When the window shown below comes up, you may have several options available:

[IMG]http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...%20Choices.jpg[/IMG]

- You will need to select the option that matches your carÂ’s current I-Step Level, or is close to it(My I-Step level is F020-13-03-503, however that option was not listed. So I chose the one that also ended with 503 and had no issues). NOTE: The FZD requires both CAFD Files to be present. After finding the correct I-Step Level, hold down CTRL and select both CAFD options, and hit Ok. This will create the CAFD files for the FZD.
- Now all that is left is to VO Code the updated FA to the car. Activate the FA. At a minimum, you will need to code the FZD, REM, HU_CIC/NBT, and FEM modules. Personally, whenever I complete a retrofit, I code the new FA to all modules in the car in the event that there is something related to the new retrofit in that module that may have been missed. How you code is up to you, but by coding them all, it avoids the risk of missing something.

Sunroof Initialization(Only required if your car is equipped with a Sunroof):
Connect to the car via Rheingold/ISTA. Once you have connected, you will go to Service Functions -> Body -> Locks -> Sunroof Initialize, and follow the on screen prompts to re-initialize the Sunroof, as it will not function without this step being completed.

Testing/Reassembly of the car:
Once you have completed all coding, turn the car off, and exit the vehicle. If you press lock/unlock on the remote, you should now hear the audible sound when the car locks/unlocks. You can also test the alarm as I described above in the Optional Additions section. Once you are satisfied that it works, you can replace any remaining trim pieces in the car, and you are all done!

Congrats! You now have a functional OEM alarm for your F30!
Can the siren be updated to one that doesn't sound like a microwave meal has cooked?
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      07-13-2017, 03:23 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paco29toy View Post
ROXXOR,

I just purchased a 2013 328i which does not have an alarm. I saw this post and I'm trying to figure out if its something I'm able to do.
My car has a Sunroof and the Teleservices/SOS module. Is there a way to know if I can use this module for this retrofit?

Thanks
You ever find the answer? My 2014 320i has the same thing but no alarm.
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      07-16-2017, 01:34 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhnblckwood View Post
You ever find the answer? My 2014 320i has the same thing but no alarm.
Not yet, I need to remove it to find out the part number
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      07-17-2017, 03:50 PM   #41
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Must have to purchase roof control module with the sensors in it. It will work on all F30s.

OEM part is in OP
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      07-20-2017, 12:32 PM   #42
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I have pretty much zero electrical experience. Would this retrofit be very difficult to do on a F32? (again I have zero wiring experience) Or does anybody know of a shop that will install this for me in Maryland/Northern Virginia?
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      08-01-2017, 07:55 PM   #43
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OP, any change you can get the pics hosted again?
Anyone have leads as to where to get the pieces needed?
Thanks.
__________________
Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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      08-02-2017, 08:55 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus View Post
OP, any change you can get the pics hosted again?
Anyone have leads as to where to get the pieces needed?
Thanks.
I have for sale three retrofit kits with all the parts needed.

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1393060
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