F30POST
F30POST
2012-2015 BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > F30 DIYs and Coding Discussions > DIY: F30 Rear Park Distance Control (PDC) Retrofit
proTUNING Freaks
Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      03-22-2015, 09:04 PM   #89
steelerfan
Lieutenant
steelerfan's Avatar
116
Rep
463
Posts

Drives: F30 335i Msport 6MT
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NC

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1lyfe View Post
try VO coding your head unit (either hu_cic Hu_entry or hu_cic) as well.
i had to do that for someones car with pdc retrofitted

read SVT means you are reading the ECU's based on your VO (vehicle order) codes this does not check to see if the ECU is actually available.
read ECU means you read the ACTUAL ECUs plugged into your car.

Also judging by the install manual from BMW (if you get front pdc) you need to run a wire from the switch to the ICM module. in that case you may need to code icm as well. as it may not be programmed to take any input from that pin until you tell it to.
Just closing the loop here.. i was VO coded the HU_CIC & that did the trick... So to be clear, to get this working if your just doing the Rear PDC you will add option 507 & VO Code the REM & HU_XXX module. Can't wait to have a day to myself where I can install the rear view camera & front PDC!!!
__________________
OEM 437M Wheels | Dinan Exhaust | MPE: Front Aero Lip | Rear Diffuser | Rear Spoiler | Interior trim | Red Brakes | My Car is For Sale
Click here to see my entire Build Thread

Appreciate 0
      03-22-2015, 10:40 PM   #90
squidlyboy
Major
squidlyboy's Avatar
United_States
516
Rep
1,034
Posts

Drives: 2014 Alpine White 328i M-Sport
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chandler, Arizona

iTrader: (0)

Awesome! Congrats on getting it going... thats a good feeling

I was playing around with TokenMasters NCD/CAFD tool last night and tried out the "What-if" feature that shows what needs to be coded (or what ECUs are affected) when you enable certain options, and indeed it showed that REM and HU_NBT both have parameters that need to be updated if option 507 (PDC Rear) is enabled. I guess your success confirms that his app gives correct information
Attached Images
 

Last edited by squidlyboy; 03-22-2015 at 10:55 PM..
Appreciate 1
      03-22-2015, 10:54 PM   #91
squidlyboy
Major
squidlyboy's Avatar
United_States
516
Rep
1,034
Posts

Drives: 2014 Alpine White 328i M-Sport
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chandler, Arizona

iTrader: (0)

Your accomplishment motivated me to through the "FA(VO) Step-By-Step (MWPos) 8-24-2013.pdf" procedure again getting ready to VO code for when all my parts arrive, post-installation, and i had this question that always stuck in the back in my mind when it came to coding...

Why is it when you do the Connect to the car, sometimes you use "F10" and sometimes you use "F20" for the vehicle target selector? It just weirds me out that something can go wrong if you pick the wrong one.

In this case (VO-coding), you use F10, but last night when i was reading out the entire SVT tree to back up all my ECU (cafd/.ncd) files, the TokenMaster video showed that you needed to use F20.

Anyone know why its F10 in some instances and F20 in others?
Appreciate 0
      03-22-2015, 11:00 PM   #92
shawnsheridan
General
shawnsheridan's Avatar
United_States
3781
Rep
20,438
Posts

Drives: 2016 650i GC M-Sport
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston, TX

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by squidlyboy View Post
Your accomplishment motivated me to through the "FA(VO) Step-By-Step (MWPos) 8-24-2013.pdf" procedure again getting ready to VO code for when all my parts arrive, post-installation, and i had this question that always stuck in the back in my mind when it came to coding...

Why is it when you do the Connect to the car, sometimes you use "F10" and sometimes you use "F20" for the vehicle target selector? It just weirds me out that something can go wrong if you pick the wrong one.

In this case (VO-coding), you use F10, but last night when i was reading out the entire SVT tree to back up all my ECU (cafd/.ncd) files, the TokenMaster video showed that you needed to use F20.

Anyone know why its F10 in some instances and F20 in others?
Because some people own 3-Series (F30) cars and others own 5-Series (F10) cars, and they have different ECU's, hence different Targets.
__________________

2016 650i GC M-Sport w/ 20" 373M Wheels; Alpine White; Individual Opal White Full Merino Leather; Gray Poplar Wood Trim
Anthracite Alcantara Headliner; Ceramic Controls; Executive Package w/ B&O Sound System; Integral Active Steering, etc.
Appreciate 0
      03-22-2015, 11:21 PM   #93
squidlyboy
Major
squidlyboy's Avatar
United_States
516
Rep
1,034
Posts

Drives: 2014 Alpine White 328i M-Sport
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chandler, Arizona

iTrader: (0)

I probably shoulda provided more details... sorry

I have an F30. In the intro coding docs, i was told to use F10 to connect. For the first ECU i coded (ASD), it worked, no problem. On the next ECU i tried to code (i forget which now, maybe FEM), i got an error saying it couldn't read it or something, and someone told me i needed to change it to f20 in order for it to work. I did that and it worked. I'm not sure why i needed to do that, but it worked. So... at that point, i'm not sure when i need to use F10 or F20.

Last night, watching TM's video on "FDL Coding for BMW F30", it said to connect using F20. In this document i'm reading on VO coding, it says to pick F10.

None of what i've read has ever said anything along the lines of, "if you have a F30, ALWAYS use this, if you have .... ALWAYS use that..." It seems like it will change for the same car, depending on what ECU you are coding or for different situations. I'm kinda at a loss at when to use what in a definitive way, because it seems like the rules change randomly...

Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnsheridan View Post
Because some people own 3-Series (F30) cars and others own 5-Series (F10) cars, and they have different ECU's, hence different Targets.
And as you know, there is no F30 option in the vehicle target selection dialog. So all this time using F10, i've been coding for a 5-series??

Last edited by squidlyboy; 03-22-2015 at 11:35 PM..
Appreciate 0
      03-22-2015, 11:35 PM   #94
shawnsheridan
General
shawnsheridan's Avatar
United_States
3781
Rep
20,438
Posts

Drives: 2016 650i GC M-Sport
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston, TX

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by squidlyboy View Post
I probably shoulda provided more details... sorry

I have an F30. In the intro coding docs, i was told to use F10 to connect. For the first ECU i coded (ASD), it worked, no problem. On the next ECU i tried to code (i forget which now, maybe FEM), i got an error saying it couldn't read it or something, and someone told me i needed to change it to f20 in order for it to work. I did that and it worked. I'm not sure why i needed to do that, but it worked. So... at that point, i'm not sure when i need to use F10 or F20.

Last night, watching TM's video on "FDL Coding for BMW F30", it said to connect using F20. In this document i'm reading on VO coding, it says to pick F10.

None of what i've read has ever said anything along the lines of, "if you have a F30, ALWAYS use this, if you have .... ALWAYS use that..." It seems like it will change for the same car, depending on what ECU you are coding or for different situations. I'm kinda at a loss at when to use what in a definitive way, because it seems like the rules change randomly...
It is always like this:

F001 psdzdata covers the F01/F02/F03/F04/F07 (5-Series GT is an F07 NOT an F10)
F010 psdzdata covers the F06/F10/F11/F12/F13/F18
F020 psdzdata covers the F20/F21/F22/F23/F30/F31/F32/F33/F34/F35/F36/F45/F80/F82/F83 (There is no Z4 Fxx Chassis yet)
F025 psdzdata covers the F15/F16/F25/F26/F48/F85/F86
F056 psdzdata covers the F54/F55 F56 (Mini Cooper and Clubman)
I001 psdzdata covers the i3/i8
__________________

2016 650i GC M-Sport w/ 20" 373M Wheels; Alpine White; Individual Opal White Full Merino Leather; Gray Poplar Wood Trim
Anthracite Alcantara Headliner; Ceramic Controls; Executive Package w/ B&O Sound System; Integral Active Steering, etc.
Appreciate 2
      03-24-2015, 07:44 PM   #95
koch92
New Member
2
Rep
11
Posts

Drives: BMW 118i
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: UK

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by squidlyboy View Post
Awesome! Congrats on getting it going... thats a good feeling

I was playing around with TokenMasters NCD/CAFD tool last night and tried out the "What-if" feature that shows what needs to be coded (or what ECUs are affected) when you enable certain options, and indeed it showed that REM and HU_NBT both have parameters that need to be updated if option 507 (PDC Rear) is enabled. I guess your success confirms that his app gives correct information
Guys I only added option 507 and coded ICM and REM, I'm missing anything then?
Appreciate 0
      03-24-2015, 08:38 PM   #96
squidlyboy
Major
squidlyboy's Avatar
United_States
516
Rep
1,034
Posts

Drives: 2014 Alpine White 328i M-Sport
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chandler, Arizona

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by koch92 View Post
Guys I only added option 507 and coded ICM and REM, I'm missing anything then?
I think steelerfan said if you are only doing 507 (rear PDC only) you only need REM and HU_XXX. I think ICM is for the front PDCs.
Appreciate 0
      03-24-2015, 09:21 PM   #97
squidlyboy
Major
squidlyboy's Avatar
United_States
516
Rep
1,034
Posts

Drives: 2014 Alpine White 328i M-Sport
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chandler, Arizona

iTrader: (0)

Man.. i'm getting impatient waiting for all my parts to arrive Everybody's done with their retrofit already or finishing up their coding... dang.

I only just got my metric step drill bits in and my Vata-Pro sensors (Ebay) today. I was hoping the default white paint that they used on the sensors would match Alphine White, but alas, its way brighter, so it would really stick out. Good thing i ordered some Alpine White touch up paint/cc. I'm not good with painting where the goal is a thin even layer... esp when the touch up paint tube is like a bottle of white-out with that little useless brush. I already read what roxxor and steelerfan did - any other tips you guys have for getting a good even coat would be appreciated.

I decided to drill a practice hole this afternoon while i'm waiting. One good thing i found out is that an 18mm drill step bit creates the PERFECT sized hole. I lucked out too. The drill bit i used had the 18mm step as the last one on the drill bit, so i didn't really have to think about it - I just drilled straight to the end and pushed it through. I practiced on a peg board and i was pretty amazed how perfect and snug the sensor was against the hole BOOM
Attached Images
    
Appreciate 0
      03-26-2015, 11:57 AM   #98
koch92
New Member
2
Rep
11
Posts

Drives: BMW 118i
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: UK

iTrader: (0)

Guy now I have the PDC guide displayed on the screen when put in reverse, but no signal? Any idea?
Appreciate 0
      03-26-2015, 12:36 PM   #99
roxxor
Lieutenant
roxxor's Avatar
331
Rep
586
Posts

Drives: 2019 X3 M40i
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Florida

iTrader: (7)

Quote:
Originally Posted by squidlyboy View Post
Man.. i'm getting impatient waiting for all my parts to arrive Everybody's done with their retrofit already or finishing up their coding... dang.

I only just got my metric step drill bits in and my Vata-Pro sensors (Ebay) today. I was hoping the default white paint that they used on the sensors would match Alphine White, but alas, its way brighter, so it would really stick out. Good thing i ordered some Alpine White touch up paint/cc. I'm not good with painting where the goal is a thin even layer... esp when the touch up paint tube is like a bottle of white-out with that little useless brush. I already read what roxxor and steelerfan did - any other tips you guys have for getting a good even coat would be appreciated.

I decided to drill a practice hole this afternoon while i'm waiting. One good thing i found out is that an 18mm drill step bit creates the PERFECT sized hole. I lucked out too. The drill bit i used had the 18mm step as the last one on the drill bit, so i didn't really have to think about it - I just drilled straight to the end and pushed it through. I practiced on a peg board and i was pretty amazed how perfect and snug the sensor was against the hole BOOM
Nice work! Yeah its even harder doing it on a step bit that ends in 20mm. My PDC holes were fine, but when I did the holes for the Parking Assistant, well, let's just say there is a little bit of a gap
Appreciate 0
      03-26-2015, 12:38 PM   #100
roxxor
Lieutenant
roxxor's Avatar
331
Rep
586
Posts

Drives: 2019 X3 M40i
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Florida

iTrader: (7)

Quote:
Originally Posted by koch92 View Post
Guy now I have the PDC guide displayed on the screen when put in reverse, but no signal? Any idea?
I would double check everything, connections on the sensors and connections on the REM. Can you put up a pic of what the screen looks like?
Appreciate 0
      03-26-2015, 01:29 PM   #101
squidlyboy
Major
squidlyboy's Avatar
United_States
516
Rep
1,034
Posts

Drives: 2014 Alpine White 328i M-Sport
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chandler, Arizona

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by roxxor View Post
... but when I did the holes for the Parking Assistant, well, let's just say there is a little bit of a gap
Did you ever get that Parking Assistant project working? If so, curious if you did a DIY on it...
Appreciate 0
      03-26-2015, 02:31 PM   #102
roxxor
Lieutenant
roxxor's Avatar
331
Rep
586
Posts

Drives: 2019 X3 M40i
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Florida

iTrader: (7)

Quote:
Originally Posted by squidlyboy View Post
Did you ever get that Parking Assistant project working? If so, curious if you did a DIY on it...
Still a work in progress. Just got the replacement Pulse Generators (that I had missed when ordering the parts before) in the mail yesterday, planning on putting them in this weekend which should let me code the DSC without any errors. I'm still not 100% sure if that will fix everything as I think there may be an issue with the Park Assist module I bought on eBay. But yes, I plan on writing up a DIY on it once I finish
Appreciate 0
      04-04-2015, 05:38 PM   #103
squidlyboy
Major
squidlyboy's Avatar
United_States
516
Rep
1,034
Posts

Drives: 2014 Alpine White 328i M-Sport
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chandler, Arizona

iTrader: (0)

REM replacement notes

My Rear Electronic Module (REM) - Part #61359329700 - arrived this week, and since my retrofit cables have not come in yet, i figured i would go ahead and do the REM replacement first since its a necessary pre-requisite task. Thanks to everyone who did NOT bid on this on Ebay ... It was sitting there at $175 for the longest time, and i finally offerred the guy $125, which he accepted It had one missing mounting tab, but between one mounting tab and another mounting screw it was good enough to secure it in the battery compartment.

This particular REM is the one roxxor recommended as having all the necessary pins/connectors needed to power the PDC sensors and connect/run the data to the NBT head unit and stereo speakers. I was tempted to take apart the REM unit to see how its wired, but ahh.. was too lazy But i did take some pics of the install and wanted to share some of my install details in case anyone might find it useful during your own rear PDC retrofit.

Btw... other than having to drill holes in the rear bumper, this part (replacing REM) of the overall rear PDC retrofit made me the most nervous, since its such a key part of the car and could screw up a lot if something went wrong. However, after seeing how easy it was to replace, most of those fears are gone.

The whole install takes less than 15-20 minutes as there is not a lot to remove. This was one of the easiest things i've replaced on the car. However, coding WILL be required after replacing this part to get rid of an innocuous dash error and your rear windows not being able to open/close. Or you can do coding all at once after the PDC sensors are installed. More on the coding part later. Here is the removal/swap procedure:

  1. Remove storage cover to reveal the battery compartment in the trunk. The nice thing here is that you don't have to remove any of the trunk liners which woulda been somewhat of a PITA. Its nice for once not to have to tear apart the car to do something. The battery compartment area is conveniently covered up by this recessed storage cover that is removed by just turning that dial at the top of it.
  2. Remove battery ground cable (13mm nut) - for safety and to protect sensitive electronic components should something weird occur. You might see small sparks fly when the connector/cable contacts the grounding post. It kinda freaked me out a little when i did this. Don't be alarmed. Use an insulated needle-nose pliers to hold the grounding cable for safety. I was always wondering with these new type of computerized cars, that if you remove the power to the car, what would happen? It turns out for a BMW, the only thing that is affected is the time/date. Thats the only thing lost when you "unplug" your car. Very minor impact.
  3. Remove all three (3) electrical connectors from the REM - There are 3 connector/harnesses plugged into the original REM, and all will need to be removed in order to replace the REM. These connectors have the flip-locking mechanism that holds them into place. In order to remove these, a) Press in the release lever/button in the middle of the connector, then
    b) Flip the release handle upwards . As you flip the handle up, the connector should start to move out of the connector slot on its own.
  4. Remove power cable to the REM - this is the +12 power cable to the REM. In order to remove it, there are two things you'll need to do. a) first, use a pair of needle-nose plier to grip the red locking tab and pull it straight out. Then b) press down on the release lever using needle nose pliers, then pull the connector straight out/back towards you.
  5. Remove 10mm mounting screw that holds REM to chassis - now that all cables/connectors have been removed, the only thing that remains is a 10mm screw that holds the REM to the mounting point on the chassis. Remove that and the REM will just pop out.
  6. Replace REM - a) two mounting tabs into chassis slots - there are two tabs on the left side of the REM that slide into the accompanying slots/holes in the chassis where the original REM went. Just slide the tabs into those two holes/slots, then b) align the mounting hole on the right side of the REM on the hole in the chassis where the original REM went, then screw the 10mm screw back in. Your new REM is now secured!
  7. Replace everything in reverse order - just be careful with the little pieces - e.g. red locking tab to power cable, nuts... if you drop them, it will fall between the battery compartment and it will be a PITA to fish out. When you re-connect the battery ground cable to the post, you will definitely see small sparks now if you didn't see any during the removal. Again, don't be alarmed, but i do recommend using an insulated pair of pliers to hold the cable to place back on the post.

Once you button everything back up, turn on the car to make sure everything looks the same/normal. The only thing that should show up on your dash is a warning to set the date/time on the car again and a Trunk Open warning on your dash. Don't be alarmed about the Trunk warning. You have a new REM that requires new coding to bring it up to snuff. From Rsnic:
Quote:
Originally Posted by RSnic View Post
Thanks to advice from Shawn Sheridan, when I replaced the REM in my car, I injected CAFD into the REM ECU; to do so, after connecting to car with E-Sys
  • Click on READ FA/VO
  • Right Click on FA/VO and ACTIVATE FA/VO
  • Click on READ SVT(VCM)
  • Left Click on ECU (not the associated CAFD)
  • Click on DETECT CAF for SWE
  • Select CAFD matching car's I-Level
  • Select OK
  • Click on Code in the Coding pane on right (NOTE: DO NOT click on 'Code Default Values'!!! Or you may need to have you car towed to the dealership if you do)

That will bring the REM into line with the rest of the car
One other side effect of changing out the REM (but no error shows up for this on dash) is that the rear windows don't seem to respond to the driver window controls. This seemed to also have been corrected after programming. YMMV.

Thanks again to roxxor for pioneering this Rear PDC Retrofit DIY thread, taking all the initial risks and paving the way for the rest of us! You did the hard work, and the rest of us are just filling in details, and enjoying the fruits of your labor

EDIT: add coding info about the 'Trunk Open' warning on dash
Attached Images
              

Last edited by squidlyboy; 04-18-2015 at 11:54 AM..
Appreciate 2
      04-04-2015, 09:22 PM   #104
Shazsta
Private First Class
18
Rep
175
Posts

Drives: 2013 335i xDrive
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Thanks for the info. I bought the REM that supersedes the 700. Hopefully it works. I took a picture for comparison and will post it when I can get the link working.
Appreciate 0
      04-06-2015, 07:57 PM   #105
f30GTR
First Lieutenant
f30GTR's Avatar
48
Rep
338
Posts

Drives: 2014 AW F30 335i M-Sport MT
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chicago

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shazsta View Post
Thanks for the info. I bought the REM that supersedes the 700. Hopefully it works. I took a picture for comparison and will post it when I can get the link working.
Same here. I bought a brand new and it's the replacement for the 700. I have my fingers crossed.
Appreciate 0
      04-07-2015, 12:06 AM   #106
squidlyboy
Major
squidlyboy's Avatar
United_States
516
Rep
1,034
Posts

Drives: 2014 Alpine White 328i M-Sport
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chandler, Arizona

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by roxxor View Post
...
- Place 1 Decoupling Ring around the top of the sensor, and place the sensor inside the mount. Once you have done this with all 4 sensors, test fit them to the holes with the backing still on the adhesive to make sure that they fit properly into the holes you drilled.
Note: When installing the sensors, the end with the connector socket should be facing away from the center of the bumper.
- Once you have done a test fit to ensure the sensors fit properly in the holes, remove the adhesive from the mount and place the sensor in the hole, pressing firmly on the back of the mount for about 10-15 seconds. Make sure you press down on all areas of the mount to make sure you get good adhesion to the bumper. Repeat for the other 3 sensors, and you are done with installing the sensors!
...
Just received my four sensor mounts for the rear bumper today, but still waiting for the retrofit cables (taking forever!). I was fiddling with the sensors and putting them into the mounts and i can see why you guys were saying you really only have one shot at placing/locating it. Once you remove the adhesive backing, you're committed

Anyways, while i'm waiting, I just wanted to inquire about the above statement you made in your DIY procedure about pointing the connector sockets away from center of the bumper. Just curious why this is needed / why it matters? Thanks!
Appreciate 0
      04-11-2015, 05:23 PM   #107
squidlyboy
Major
squidlyboy's Avatar
United_States
516
Rep
1,034
Posts

Drives: 2014 Alpine White 328i M-Sport
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chandler, Arizona

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shazsta View Post
Thanks for the info. I bought the REM that supersedes the 700. Hopefully it works. I took a picture for comparison and will post it when I can get the link working.
Shazsta/f30GTR - did you guys ever install your new REM? If so, any issues? Unfortunately, i have to return my 700. I noticed a 'Trunk Open' warning message after installation that wouldn't go away. I thought it might be a blown fuse, or loose connection, so i checked all the fuses this morning and re-seated all the plugs, but i couldn't find anything wrong. Then i put back my 702 REM and the error went away. I guess its a bad 700 - i guess thats par for the course when you buy used equipment on Ebay. But the guy gave me a 12 month warranty on it so i can return it.

I was originally debating going with a used 700 or a new 61359362394 (which is the one i think you guys bought) since the difference at the time was only about $40 difference. But when the guy dropped the 700 to $125, i couldn't pass it up.

But before i pull the trigger on this brand new REM, just wanted to see if you guys encountered any compatibility issues?
Appreciate 0
      04-11-2015, 08:58 PM   #108
Shazsta
Private First Class
18
Rep
175
Posts

Drives: 2013 335i xDrive
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

I installed it to check and I have that same issue so your REM is probably ok. Maybe it has to do with coding and when everything is plugged up correctly it will work
Appreciate 0
      04-11-2015, 09:20 PM   #109
Shazsta
Private First Class
18
Rep
175
Posts

Drives: 2013 335i xDrive
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Roxxor coming through in the clutch. I suspect we didn't do this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roxxor View Post
When I did mine, I just applied the FA change to every ECU just to make sure there wasn't something left out. The only downfall to this is that if you had made other coding changes, it will most likely put everything back to default and you would have to redo any coding changes.

As for the REM, once you install the new one you will need to generate the new CAFD for it. Once you get it in I can help with that.
Appreciate 0
      04-11-2015, 09:31 PM   #110
squidlyboy
Major
squidlyboy's Avatar
United_States
516
Rep
1,034
Posts

Drives: 2014 Alpine White 328i M-Sport
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chandler, Arizona

iTrader: (0)

Hmm.. i'm a little confused.

I'm not sure how to generate a new CAFD for the REM without VO coding the car for the new option, which is the rear PCD sensors (option 507). However, I (we) haven't installed the PDC sensors yet... just the REM ... so it seems like its premature to do any coding yet.

I'm guessing if you VO code right now for 507, you will get some kind of PDC sensor malfunction error since it won't be able to detect them.
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:28 PM.




f30post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST