[Evangoz]

Hi guys, as you may know I had a regular and oil filter and plug service that costed me 1000 over the 777 labour and they suggest i need to change my rotors and pads for my 2015 428i for another 1k. So i decided to do it my self, but im new and im not that confident in ordering the parts, are these compatible or a good combination? Let me know. i was hoping you guys can help me.

Rotors:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-zimmerma...16792227ktzkt/


Pads:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-hawk-par...hb749z.648~hk/


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-brembo-p...206873094~brm/

[jh_f30]

Originally Posted by Evangoz

Hi guys, as you may know I had a regular and oil filter and plug service that costed me 1000 over the 777 labour and they suggest i need to change my rotors and pads for my 2015 428i for another 1k. So i decided to do it my self, but im new and im not that confident in ordering the parts, are these compatible or a good combination? Let me know. i was hoping you guys can help me.

Rotors:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-zimmerma...16792227ktzkt/


Pads:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-hawk-parts/rear-performance-ceramic-brake-pad-set/hb749z.648~hk/


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-brembo-p...206873094~brm/

The rotors you have linked are just the rears, are you looking to do all four? If so, the sizes for the fronts are different. If you have the base brake package, the linked rotors are correct. Use this as a guide:
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-b...ke-Differences

Also, cross-shop with FCP Euro. They tend to be a little cheaper for OE/OEM parts, plus they have a lifetime warranty.

I'm in the South Bay Area as well. Hit me up if you're unsure about the install or if you have any other questions. And just a word of advice, avoid dealerships for basic maintenance in the future. I've done pretty much all my own maintenance for the last 2 years or so and have amassed a decent number of tools to do pretty much anything I need.

In addition to this forum, YouTube, and Google searches, this has also been a valuable resource for working on my own car:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

[Onizukachan]

Not hard. I taught my non mechanically inclined wife how to do it. Get a harbor freight or similar inexpensive c clamp.
For floating calipers:
Break loose lugs, jack up car remove wheel.
Open hood and remove brake fluid cap.
and use clamp to compress the pistons. I usually do it before I loosen the calipers, but if you are unsure on clamp placement or have rigid mounted calipers, , remove caliper from the mount and press on the old pad with clamp to compress.

Install New pads. If not changing rotors reassemble.

If installing new pads and rotors, next remove the caliper mounts, usually two large bolts.
If the rotor locating/securing screw can’t be turned easily with a screwdriver or appears corroded,
Get a cheap propane torch from Walmart harbor freight etc.
heat up the area surrounding the screw and quench with ice or your favorite penetrating spray a few times. if this doesn’t work, you can drill the head off it. Once the head is off the actual screw part the tension is released and they will turn quite easily.

Reassemble.

Tip. If using coated rotors like zimmermans, I put the old pads back in and CAREFULLY drive slowly around the neighborhood until they have worn thru the coating to metal. Then I do the pad change. So I basically do the job backwards.

Also pelican parts usually has photographic step by step diy for bmw. I know I still refer to them to this day when needed and I’ve been doing this for 25 years.

[Onizukachan]

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...W_F30_Tech.htm
They don’t have one yet, but look for any other similar model, e90, f10 just to get an idea of the job.

If you like videos instead.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1613966

[JeffreyB]

Super easy!
After dealing with the head ache of figuring out what rotors I have since I have the blue m sport calipers
I ended up getting cross drilled and slotted all the way around from Rockauto for an amazing price!
Got hella-pagid 2 piece rotors at less then half the price of OE

[BMWILUVU]

Just one important piece of advice: Never rely on a jack to hold the car, use jack-stands after you jack it.

[ontheway]

Originally Posted by BMWILUVU

Just one important piece of advice: Never rely on a jack to hold the car, use jack-stands after you jack it.

^^^ Very important ^^^

Brake fluid is very corrosive to paint - just an FYI in case something happens.

You can buy the jack pads pretty cheap so you can use a trolley jack.

Chock the wheels and apply the handbrake.

Otherwise easy.

And my local quality brake/tyre shop will do it for USD $75 per axle so despite wanting to do it myself, I don't bother.

[zinner]

Brake pads and rotors are only hard if something is rusted up.

[Hobie18]

I'll add a plug for RockAuto.com for parts. Good selection and very low prices. Fast delivery as well.

Brakes are easy and a good way to save significant money. Note, the pad wear sensor wire runs to a junction box under the wheel well cover at the edge of the trunk in the rear. There is only one sensor wire for each axle.

[zole2112]

Make sure you wipe down the rotors to remove the oil on them before you mount them so you don't contaminate your new pads.

[Evangoz]

Originally Posted by jh_f30

The rotors you have linked are just the rears, are you looking to do all four? If so, the sizes for the fronts are different. If you have the base brake package, the linked rotors are correct. Use this as a guide:
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-b...ke-Differences

Also, cross-shop with FCP Euro. They tend to be a little cheaper for OE/OEM parts, plus they have a lifetime warranty.

I'm in the South Bay Area as well. Hit me up if you're unsure about the install or if you have any other questions. And just a word of advice, avoid dealerships for basic maintenance in the future. I've done pretty much all my own maintenance for the last 2 years or so and have amassed a decent number of tools to do pretty much anything I need.

In addition to this forum, YouTube, and Google searches, this has also been a valuable resource for working on my own car:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

Woah! Thanks alot! Sorry for the late rep I just got back from a trip

[Evangoz]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

Not hard. I taught my non mechanically inclined wife how to do it. Get a harbor freight or similar inexpensive c clamp.
For floating calipers:
Break loose lugs, jack up car remove wheel.
Open hood and remove brake fluid cap.
and use clamp to compress the pistons. I usually do it before I loosen the calipers, but if you are unsure on clamp placement or have rigid mounted calipers, , remove caliper from the mount and press on the old pad with clamp to compress.

Install New pads. If not changing rotors reassemble.

If installing new pads and rotors, next remove the caliper mounts, usually two large bolts.
If the rotor locating/securing screw can’t be turned easily with a screwdriver or appears corroded,
Get a cheap propane torch from Walmart harbor freight etc.
heat up the area surrounding the screw and quench with ice or your favorite penetrating spray a few times. if this doesn’t work, you can drill the head off it. Once the head is off the actual screw part the tension is released and they will turn quite easily.

Reassemble.

Tip. If using coated rotors like zimmermans, I put the old pads back in and CAREFULLY drive slowly around the neighborhood until they have worn thru the coating to metal. Then I do the pad change. So I basically do the job backwards.

Also pelican parts usually has photographic step by step diy for bmw. I know I still refer to them to this day when needed and I’ve been doing this for 25 years.

Woah, is it alright if i use the new pads to scape off Zimmerman's coating? Or is it a bad idea since im gonna replace both pads and rotors at the same time

[Evangoz]

Originally Posted by ontheway

^^^ Very important ^^^

Brake fluid is very corrosive to paint - just an FYI in case something happens.

You can buy the jack pads pretty cheap so you can use a trolley jack.

Chock the wheels and apply the handbrake.

Otherwise easy.

And my local quality brake/tyre shop will do it for USD $75 per axle so despite wanting to do it myself, I don't bother.

Okay gotchu guys, I heard alot of jacks failing mid process and that'll be a big problem. Ill keep that in mind