[NxTH]

I've owned my 2013 335i AH3 RWD for 2 years. The car has 100K miles on it. In this time, I've noticed that the car essentially consumes half a quart of oil in 1000 miles. What I have also noticed however, is that when I fill it up from missing half a quart by adding exactly that, the iDrive oil level does not change. It only changes when I keep adding more, sometimes almost a full quart despite the idrive meter being in the middle.

Last year when the oil meter showed minimum, it never even warned me. I just did a manual check and it asked me to add a quart immediately. So I did, and the iDrive level went from minimum to middle, not max. I did not add anymore oil because it didn't make any sense, and I had an oil change coming, after which the level was at max again.

I've also made sure to do a couple of trips after topping oil, but the idrive level does not budge to max despite adding the asked amount.

The car is obviously drinking a lot of oil, for some reason. I'm running Stage 1 BM3, but my xHP values are set to 3500 rpm for shift 1 -> 2, and 3000 rpm from 2 -> 3, and 2500 rpm from 3 -> 4. I did this 2 years ago straight up when buying the car, because I wanted it to behave like I was driving a manual, because essentially those rpm's are where I would normally shift myself. Question is, if xHP with these values could be responsible for the consumption. I feel like just doing a few pulls, the oil level goes down a notch.

Still, the way the idrive level operates, seems to make no sense at all. I also considered trying 5W40 oil instead of 5W30, but I live in Finland with winters going down to -13f at times. Should still work right? Maybe the Castrol Edge 5W30 is just too thin. The car does not smoke. Neither do I.

Car has zero leaks. Everything is bone dry.

Here's what I did as a preventative maintenance early this year. These did not affect anything in terms of oil consumption.

- Oil & Coolant change
- Cleaned VANOS solenoids
- Aluminum coolant hose flange
- Electric Water pump
- Thermostat
- Water hose
- Oil pan gaskets
- Oil filter housing gaskets
- Valve cover gaskets
- Intake manifold gaskets
- Serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pulley
- Fixed a fuel line nut
- Crankcase Vent Hose

I also just noticed that there's some black sluge on the oil filler cap, where I marked the area. Basically on those holes. The bottom of the cap seems good otherwise from the center. There's also black sludge around the outside of where the cap tightens, but not inside. This is probably from spills?

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by NxTH

I've owned my 2013 335i AH3 RWD for 2 years. The car has 100K miles on it. In this time, I've noticed that the car essentially consumes half a quart of oil in 1000 miles. What I have also noticed however, is that when I fill it up from missing half a quart by adding exactly that, the iDrive oil level does not change. It only changes when I keep adding more, sometimes almost a full quart despite the idrive meter being in the middle.

Last year when the oil meter showed minimum, it never even warned me. I just did a manual check and it asked me to add a quart immediately. So I did, and the iDrive level went from minimum to middle, not max. I did not add anymore oil because it didn't make any sense, and I had an oil change coming, after which the level was at max again.

I've also made sure to do a couple of trips after topping oil, but the idrive level does not budge to max despite adding the asked amount.

The car is obviously drinking a lot of oil, for some reason. I'm running Stage 1 BM3, but my xHP values are set to 3500 rpm for shift 1 -> 2, and 3000 rpm from 2 -> 3, and 2500 rpm from 3 -> 4. I did this 2 years ago straight up when buying the car, because I wanted it to behave like I was driving a manual, because essentially those rpm's are where I would normally shift myself. Question is, if xHP with these values could be responsible for the consumption. I feel like just doing a few pulls, the oil level goes down a notch.

Still, the way the idrive level operates, seems to make no sense at all. I also considered trying 5W40 oil instead of 5W30, but I live [...]

Looks like your oil cap is beginning to leak and the oil mist is allowing dirt to attach to the outside edge of the cap.

Per BMW. 1 liter/ 1k miles is considered excessive.

Weird that the drive didn't warn you about the oil level. Remember it only measures if your 1 quart/liter down. Looks like you were 1.5 low.

[Leon S. Kennedy]

what oil are you using?

[Malo_Industries]

When you changed the valve cover gasket, did you notice any oil residue? What was the reason for the change? (also, it's easy to have the gasket improperly seated)
Do you have the engine cover on?

[NxTH]

I'm monitoring the situation, changed to 5W40 instead of 5W30 and did a BG EPR maintenance in Fall. I checked again with a mechanic and no drips or anything anywhere, all clean. I changed all gaskets this year, but they are also all dry with no leaks. I changed them all as preventative maintenance. No residue.

So far the iDrive shows full after a few months, I'm going to have to see how it develops. I'm starting to think it's my aggressive xHP RPM's causing excess consumption.

[NxTH]

Mystery no more I suppose. Over time, the bolts on the oil filter housing start coming loose and oil starts seeping out. Turns out the shop has been tightening the bolts each time, but the issue comes back. This time they added thread locker to the bolts, but I'm already seeing a new leak after a day.

I will have to take my car into another shop to redo the entire OFHG job.

Meanwhile, does this belt look dry to you? There was oil on the tensioner which I cleaned. Can I keep driving with this belt for a few weeks? The dampener looks moist, but the belt seems dry? I just renewed the belt like a few months ago..

[Billfitz]

Leaking oil filter housing gaskets are a well known and often referenced problem. The bolts don't come loose, it's the gaskets drying out and shrinking. A good BMW shop would know this.

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Leaking oil filter housing gaskets are a well known and often referenced problem. The bolts don't come loose, it's the gaskets drying out and shrinking. A good BMW shop would know this.

I'm aware they are making a mistake by tightening the bolts. Question is if someone is knowledgeable enough to say whether that belt looks dry enough to drive for a couple of weeks or not, assuming the leak doesn't get too bad and I'm able to wipe it off from the top of the housing.

I will obviously have to take the job elsewhere.