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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N20, N26, B46, B48 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > N20/N26 Build Thread!
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      09-17-2018, 04:45 PM   #265
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Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
Yes. That's the same one we all have. The N20 and N26 share the same turbo.
Thanks for the confirmation!
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      09-17-2018, 07:08 PM   #266
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yes I am on stock fuel pump as of now my stg 2 lpfp was acting funky for some reason.
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      09-17-2018, 08:39 PM   #267
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Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
Yes. That's the same one we all have. The N20 and N26 share the same turbo.

Update on the car: Tech ran into a problem getting the o2 senor out. Even said after a few attempts with heat they still couldn't get it out. They are letting it soak overnight. He said it looks as if it was cross threaded on. Not sure, what's going on with that or what could have caused it since it was never touched by me. If they can't get it off would they just replace it since the DP is coming off anyway?

He also asked me if my car has ever been in a front end accident because my condenser unit was all banged up. I was like not that I know of. Car was purchased a year ago through a very reputable BMW dealership certified preowned/clean car fax. Not sure what could have caused that or what that's going to cost to fix it?!?!? Hopefully, the rest of the job goes smoother tomorrow.
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      09-17-2018, 09:31 PM   #268
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Originally Posted by fate_f30 View Post
Update on the car: Tech ran into a problem getting the o2 senor out. Even said after a few attempts with heat they still couldn't get it out. They are letting it soak overnight. He said it looks as if it was cross threaded on. Not sure, what's going on with that or what could have caused it since it was never touched by me. If they can't get it off would they just replace it since the DP is coming off anyway?

He also asked me if my car has ever been in a front end accident because my condenser unit was all banged up. I was like not that I know of. Car was purchased a year ago through a very reputable BMW dealership certified preowned/clean car fax. Not sure what could have caused that or what that's going to cost to fix it?!?!? Hopefully, the rest of the job goes smoother tomorrow.
I also got my car with a clean Carfax, CPO, and it was in an accident, which my dad pointed out as soon as I brought it home... I was too naive to realize it when I took delivery. You and I both go to show that Carfax doesn't mean everything. Funnily enough, my condenser is also kind of shot, I noticed it during my FMIC install. Attached are pics of both the condenser and pieces of it on the old FMIC. I have yet to have it fixed...

About your 02 sensors, I have heard of them getting hot enough that they essentially weld themselves to the DP, that could be your problem. The shop should just replace the 02 sensor, shouldn't be a big deal.
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      09-17-2018, 09:40 PM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjdnyy224 View Post
I also got my car with a clean Carfax, CPO, and it was in an accident, which my dad pointed out as soon as I brought it home... I was too naive to realize it when I took delivery. You and I both go to show that Carfax doesn't mean everything. Funnily enough, my condenser is also kind of shot, I noticed it during my FMIC install. Attached are pics of both the condenser and pieces of it on the old FMIC. I have yet to have it fixed...

About your 02 sensors, I have heard of them getting hot enough that they essentially weld themselves to the DP, that could be your problem. The shop should just replace the 02 sensor, shouldn't be a big deal.
Holy smokes! Your condenser is shot!
Any idea as far as price what I'd be looking at to do the condenser and the O2 sensor? I looked up condensers and I saw it should be around $100 for the part not sure about the O2 sensor though.
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      09-17-2018, 09:47 PM   #270
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Originally Posted by fate_f30 View Post
Holy smokes! Your condenser is shot!
Any idea as far as price what I'd be looking at to do the condenser and the O2 sensor? I looked up condensers and I saw it should be around $100 for the part not sure about the O2 sensor though.
Yah it's toast lol. It's been like that for months, but I use A/C effectively never, even on those 100° NJ summer days. Pretty only much when I have whiny passengers

I really have no idea how much the labor would be on a condenser job. I don't think its a really simple job though...
02 sensors should go for around $115 for the pair if I remember correctly, and it's obviously a very easy job. I would have the shop just do two new 02 sensors, it will probably take them an additional 15 seconds, considering they already have the DP out.
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      09-17-2018, 09:51 PM   #271
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Originally Posted by rjdnyy224 View Post
Yah it's toast lol. It's been like that for months, but I use A/C effectively never, even on those 100° NJ summer days. Pretty only much when I have whiny passengers

I really have no idea how much the labor would be on a condenser job. I don't think its a really simple job though...
02 sensors should go for around $115 for the pair if I remember correctly, and it's obviously a very easy job. I would have the shop just do two new 02 sensors, it will probably take them an additional 15 seconds, considering they already have the DP out.
Thanks for the info. The AC in my car always ran fine from the moment I got the car and I haven’t had any problems yet so maybe I’ll skip that for the moment. I still have a warranty on the car but I guess it would be a pain in the a$$ to try and get that fixed under warranty considering how I would have to explain “how” it happen since now that I’ve modded my car. That’s probably not going to fly.. sorry for hijacking the thread with this nonsense...
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      09-17-2018, 10:11 PM   #272
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Thanks for the info. The AC in my car always ran fine from the moment I got the car and I haven’t had any problems yet so maybe I’ll skip that for the moment. I still have a warranty on the car but I guess it would be a pain in the a$$ to try and get that fixed under warranty considering how I would have to explain “how” it happen since now that I’ve modded my car. That’s probably not going to fly.. sorry for hijacking the thread with this nonsense...
Yah my A/C works fine when I do use it. I'm still gonna try to get it done under warranty, but I'd bet the farm they'll say I did it during the FMIC install. You know, because everyone knows violently stabbing the condenser with the new FMIC is part of the install...
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      09-17-2018, 10:18 PM   #273
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Originally Posted by rjdnyy224 View Post
Yah my A/C works fine when I do use it. I'm still gonna try to get it done under warranty, but I'd bet the farm they'll say I did it during the FMIC install. You know, because everyone knows violently stabbing the condenser with the new FMIC is part of the install...
Lol! Yup!
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      09-17-2018, 10:30 PM   #274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fate_f30 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
Have you tried flashing to stock and seeing the results? Probably one of the easier choices before looking at the mechanical side.
Are you 100% sure the Go Fast DV valve (T9357) will work with the n26? I’m tech wanted to know for sure before he drops the manifold.
YES. 100%

And why is your tech dropping the manifold?!

Not necessary!
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      09-18-2018, 09:01 AM   #275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diegov209 View Post
yes I am on stock fuel pump as of now my stg 2 lpfp was acting funky for some reason.
Let us know how she runs! Curious if the stock LPFP can push 100% E85 and for how long.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fate_f30 View Post
Update on the car: Tech ran into a problem getting the o2 senor out. Even said after a few attempts with heat they still couldn't get it out. They are letting it soak overnight. He said it looks as if it was cross threaded on. Not sure, what's going on with that or what could have caused it since it was never touched by me. If they can't get it off would they just replace it since the DP is coming off anyway?

He also asked me if my car has ever been in a front end accident because my condenser unit was all banged up. I was like not that I know of. Car was purchased a year ago through a very reputable BMW dealership certified preowned/clean car fax. Not sure what could have caused that or what that's going to cost to fix it?!?!? Hopefully, the rest of the job goes smoother tomorrow.
Worst comes to worse, you replace the O2 sensor, no biggie. Make sure if they can, they use a similar method that was posted on the forums on how to install the GFB without taking off the manifold. Saves them time and hopefully you, money.
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      09-18-2018, 02:17 PM   #276
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Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
Let us know how she runs! Curious if the stock LPFP can push 100% E85 and for how long.



Worst comes to worse, you replace the O2 sensor, no biggie. Make sure if they can, they use a similar method that was posted on the forums on how to install the GFB without taking off the manifold. Saves them time and hopefully you, money.
So I decided not to install the diverter valve (at this point). For both reasons agreed on by my tech and myself. It's something I've revisit at a later date. Question: I see 2 maps for Stage 2. Stage 2 93 Octane and Stage 2 93 Octane (AGG). Which one should I flash? What is AGG?
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      09-18-2018, 03:23 PM   #277
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So I decided not to install the diverter valve (at this point). For both reasons agreed on by my tech and myself. It's something I've revisit at a later date. Question: I see 2 maps for Stage 2. Stage 2 93 Octane and Stage 2 93 Octane (AGG). Which one should I flash? What is AGG?
What reasons?

The only difference is AGG has more aggressive burbles.
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      09-18-2018, 04:18 PM   #278
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What reasons?

The only difference is AGG has more aggressive burbles.
Diverter valve in. He ended up swinging the turbo to get it in. Smells and sounds are a lot different! Something I’ll have to get use to. Driving home to flash to Stage 2. Hopefully I’ll get some logs tomorrow. Thanks for the clarification.

Last edited by fate_f30; 09-18-2018 at 06:12 PM..
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      09-18-2018, 07:23 PM   #279
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Diverter valve in. He ended up swinging the turbo to get it in. Smells and sounds are a lot different! Something I’ll have to get use to. Driving home to flash to Stage 2. Hopefully I’ll get some logs tomorrow. Thanks for the clarification.
Nice! So all the hardware's in?

Let us know what you think of stage 2.
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      09-18-2018, 07:53 PM   #280
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Nice! So all the hardware's in?

Let us know what you think of stage 2.
Yes. Installed
1. ER Catless DP
2. ER DP
3. ER FMIC
4. Go Fast Bits DV+ Valve
5. New spark plugs gaped to PTF specs

My impressions so far are...

First flashed with the more aggressive burble tune and it was too much for my liking. Then took it down to the lesser aggressive burble tune. Burbles sound good I may end up toning it down a little more not sure how I feel about them just yet. Power feels strong through revs. Power feels stronger when you ease into the gas rather than just punching it. Good loud, long burbles and backfires when you let off gas once turbo has spooled up and you back off the gas. Car feels light and pulls a lot stronger off the line. I'd like to get some logs over the next few days to see if everything is dialed in correctly. Also, I feel like with the new DV valve the car seems to hold boost a little longer. Maybe a placebo effect? but something feels stronger. Butt dyno feels GREAT!

In my opinion if you want to push your car safely to it's limit this is the best way to go.

Question: I noticed there's a setting to turn off "heating your cat" during a cold starts. I'm running catless so I'd like to cut down on noise during cold start up's but is it recommended? Should I continue to heat my cat when cold starting. If yes, what are the pro's? And con's? Thanks
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      09-18-2018, 08:21 PM   #281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fate_f30 View Post
Yes. Installed
1. ER Catless DP
2. ER DP
3. ER FMIC
4. Go Fast Bits DV+ Valve
5. New spark plugs gaped to PTF specs

My impressions so far are...

First flashed with the more aggressive burble tune and it was too much for my liking. Then took it down to the lesser aggressive burble tune. Burbles sound good I may end up toning it down a little more not sure how I feel about them just yet. Power feels strong through revs. Power feels stronger when you ease into the gas rather than just punching it. Good loud, long burbles and backfires when you let off gas once turbo has spooled up and you back off the gas. Car feels light and pulls a lot stronger off the line. I'd like to get some logs over the next few days to see if everything is dialed in correctly. Also, I feel like with the new DV valve the car seems to hold boost a little longer. Maybe a placebo effect? but something feels stronger. Butt dyno feels GREAT!

In my opinion if you want to push your car safely to it's limit this is the best way to go.

Question: I noticed there's a setting to turn off "heating your cat" during a cold starts. I'm running catless so I'd like to cut down on noise during cold start up's but is it recommended? Should I continue to heat my cat when cold starting. If yes, what are the pro's? And con's? Thanks
Glad to hear you like it! Like you said, Stage 2 hardware with BM3 is definitely the way to go.

About your question, turning off cat-heating will disable the cold start entirely, so the car will just startup very mildly and quietly every time to remedy the fury that is a catless N20 cold start. I recommend turning cat-heating off because it's only there to heat the cat, which you've just removed. It really quiets things down well. There are no cons to turning it off. That said, I did experience a rough idle after startups with it turned off, but that has fixed itself over time through adaptations, I assume. So if you experience the same, don't worry it will go away eventually. It took about a month of rough starts before it finally adapted to not having a cold start cycle, but it's smooth as butter now.
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      09-18-2018, 08:23 PM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjdnyy224 View Post
Glad to hear you like it! Like you said, Stage 2 hardware with BM3 is definitely the way to go.

About your question, turning off cat-heating will disable the cold start entirely, so the car will just startup very mildly and quietly every time to remedy the fury that is a catless N20 cold start. I recommend turning cat-heating off because it's only there to heat the cat, which you've just removed. It really quiets things down well. There are no cons to turning it off. That said, I did experience a rough idle after startups with it turned off, but that has fixed itself over time through adaptations, I assume. So if you experience the same, don't worry it will go away eventually. It took about a month of rough starts before it finally adapted to not having a cold start cycle, but it's smooth as butter now.
It's funny that you say that I did experience a little rough idle upon start up during the few times I let the car sit for awhile. In my mind I would assume it would adapt over time like you said.
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      09-19-2018, 09:25 AM   #283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fate_f30 View Post
Yes. Installed
1. ER Catless DP
2. ER DP
3. ER FMIC
4. Go Fast Bits DV+ Valve
5. New spark plugs gaped to PTF specs

My impressions so far are...

First flashed with the more aggressive burble tune and it was too much for my liking. Then took it down to the lesser aggressive burble tune. Burbles sound good I may end up toning it down a little more not sure how I feel about them just yet. Power feels strong through revs. Power feels stronger when you ease into the gas rather than just punching it. Good loud, long burbles and backfires when you let off gas once turbo has spooled up and you back off the gas. Car feels light and pulls a lot stronger off the line. I'd like to get some logs over the next few days to see if everything is dialed in correctly. Also, I feel like with the new DV valve the car seems to hold boost a little longer. Maybe a placebo effect? but something feels stronger. Butt dyno feels GREAT!

In my opinion if you want to push your car safely to it's limit this is the best way to go.

Question: I noticed there's a setting to turn off "heating your cat" during a cold starts. I'm running catless so I'd like to cut down on noise during cold start up's but is it recommended? Should I continue to heat my cat when cold starting. If yes, what are the pro's? And con's? Thanks
Good to hear! Yes, definitely post logs and please try to get a bottom of 3rd to top of 3rd gear WOT pull.

Concur with above on cat-heating. Mine was so loud it'd set off car alarms, so 10/10, do recommend turning it off.
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      09-19-2018, 10:00 AM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
Good to hear! Yes, definitely post logs and please try to get a bottom of 3rd to top of 3rd gear WOT pull.

Concur with above on cat-heating. Mine was so loud it'd set off car alarms, so 10/10, do recommend turning it off.
Looks like my cat heat was turned off when I flashed so that’s good. I’ll try and post some logs over the next few days once the rain clears around here.
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      09-21-2018, 01:44 PM   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
Good to hear! Yes, definitely post logs and please try to get a bottom of 3rd to top of 3rd gear WOT pull.

Concur with above on cat-heating. Mine was so loud it'd set off car alarms, so 10/10, do recommend turning it off.

Question: How do you diagnose with bootmod to check for fault codes? Is it something you can do while on the server after you flash? I'll be getting some logs this week.
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      09-21-2018, 01:47 PM   #286
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Drives: 2013 328i
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: San Diego, CA

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Quote:
Originally Posted by fate_f30 View Post
Question: How do you diagnose with bootmod to check for fault codes? Is it something you can do while on the server after you flash? I'll be getting some logs this week.
Go to Diagnostics > Read Codes
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2013 F30 328i: MHI Big Turbo, GFB DV+, Mishimoto CAI, ER TIC/CP/Catless DP, AWE Touring Quad Exhaust w/ Resonated Midpipe, NGK LI Plugs, BM3 with PTF Stage 2 91 AGG Tune, Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP, Solowerks S1 Coilovers, and DEPO/M-Sport Retrofit
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