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      03-12-2014, 06:47 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by ToyotaBMW
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Originally Posted by RealStig View Post
I drive a E90 M3 and I, like many others, have been suffering from this issue since 500 miles 3 years ago. I cannot believe that BMW STILL has not fixed this issue after so many years. My car had a sticker price of 78k and for that kind of a price, something like this is ridiculous. What's even more ridiculous is that there is a service bulletin out (or there has been since 2008 apparently) and all they can do is applying teflon tape to door seals. I took my car in 6 times to 3 dealerships over the course of 3 years and the issue always returned after 1-2 weeks.

I was hoping the new M3 wouldn't have this problem, but it looks like it will too. This is such an annoying and embarrassing problem to have, when people are in your 80k car and it starts squeaking all over the place, they can't help make fun of you and they have every right to do so.

I was reading this thread and it is depressing since I find noises the most annoying. I was considering the new M3 but you just put a dent into my plans. What the heck is going on BMW?
Yep. No more 3 series, M3 or BMW sedan for me. Rather pay more monthly than to suffer this defect.

Maybe that's why they are making gran coupe because they can't figure out how to fix the door seal noise lol.

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      03-12-2014, 06:51 AM   #68
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Can somebody who got it fixed by dealership via the Teflon Tape method take a picture of how it looks like? I am considering letting the dealership do that if it doesn't look awfully ugly.

Thanks!

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      03-12-2014, 06:54 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtuds
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Originally Posted by Sprocket View Post
Like I posted in another thread on the issue (the threads should be merged, btw), I have suffered the problem and the dealer finally solved it by replacing the seals. I just picked it up today and it is dead quiet, but I am not sure if it will last.

Brief history goes like this: I first heard signs of it when picking up the car after a complimentary detailing at the dealers (as compensation for some other things).
I asked the dealer for advice and was told to use silicone. Which made it worse. The dealer then tried on two occasions to get rid of the problem by cleaining the seals and using silicone remover (as well as applying the special BMW seal lubricant). Nothing helped - it sounded worse than ever.

Finally they ordered new seals (both interior door seals and the ones at the top of the doors). According to the dealer, changing the interior seals helped a bit but changing the top seals was the main thing to get rid of the sound.

At this point I am personally interested in knowing what might be causing the problem (so I can avoid it happening a second time). But I would advise anyone not able to get rid of the problem to demand new seals.

Clearly they are either of inferior quality OR we are not being given enough information on how to care for them.
This is interesting to me for a couple reasons....the one thing, I only hear it on the passenger side of the car. Also, when I crack the rear passenger window, just a tiny bit, the noise is significantly reduced. So it sure seEms like seals is a legitimate cause
I agree I only hear it on the passenger side also.

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      03-12-2014, 04:51 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dL. View Post
Can somebody who got it fixed by dealership via the Teflon Tape method take a picture of how it looks like? I am considering letting the dealership do that if it doesn't look awfully ugly.

Thanks!

dL
+1. I'd be willing to try it myself. I've seen adhesive Teflon tape for sale before.
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      03-13-2014, 07:59 AM   #71
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A few people with this issue have gone to a dealership and had them "lubricate" the seals. I complained and they tried that and it helped a lot, for a while....then the noise started coming back. Pretty annoying though.
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      03-16-2014, 04:50 PM   #72
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Pretty much there's no permanent fix for this.

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      06-03-2014, 09:54 PM   #73
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The teflon tape method lasts a really long time. Some report over 18 months plus with no creaking.

Teflon tape isn't something you get at the hardware store. It's kind of industrial use only tape. Here is where you can get it.

http://www.uline.ca/BL_6085/3M-5480-PTFE-Film-Tape

There is a US web site as well

http://www.uline.com

While made by 3M it's not Scotch tape. It's $70 a roll!

As for the root cause, that doesn't seem to be known. I've seen some BMWs that even after 10 years+ never had a creak. Then there those less than a few months old and the creak appears. The only sort of pattern, and even then it's a weak link, is the cars that creak tend to be those that get . . . well run. As the chassis stretches it seems the doors creak.

It seems that if teflon tape fixes the problem it should be applied at the factory.
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      06-03-2014, 10:19 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by menncars View Post
The teflon tape method lasts a really long time. Some report over 18 months plus with no creaking.

Teflon tape isn't something you get at the hardware store. It's kind of industrial use only tape. Here is where you can get it.

http://www.uline.ca/BL_6085/3M-5480-PTFE-Film-Tape

There is a US web site as well

http://www.uline.com

While made by 3M it's not Scotch tape. It's $70 a roll!
For those who have problems getting it applied from the dealer, there's cheaper "low friction" tapes available that might be worth a try. I bought some for my woodshop once, although for the life of me I can't remember exactly why.

Here's one example for $12, there's more on amazon/google.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...10,43466,32182
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      06-04-2014, 04:51 AM   #75
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I had an issue with my F32 creaking when the passenger door was opened or moved on the hinges.
It was not the door rubber seals creaking. It was to do with the seal for the door mirror mount. Where the door mirror is mounted, it is mounted on a rubber seal. If the seal is not perfectly seated the bottom of the mirror plastic rubs against the plastic door trim. It was only a tiny area rubbing but plastic on plastic creaks.
I tried to re-seat the mirror on the seal but the seal was slightly creased from not being correctly mounted. So I used a tiny piece of foam tape just on the area that was rubbing and remounted the mirror.
The creak is now gone.
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      06-04-2014, 05:29 AM   #76
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The 'official' method on fixing the problem. See attached. This tape is transparent and is . . .even more expensive. Find some BMW buddies and split the cost. $125 a roll. Jeez, made by 3M, priced by BMW
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      06-04-2014, 06:26 AM   #77
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This creaking developed in my car over the first couple of weeks I had it and it was killing me. I tried using Gummi Pflege after reading some of the posts here, but it had little effect. After seeing mention of the Teflon tape, it seemed to me that anything that would lower the friction between the felt-backed rubber seal and the shadowline trim would help. I applied a paint sealant, Blackfire Wet Diamond, to the bottom edge of the shadowline trim, the creaking stopped completely and I haven't heard it return in several months. If it does come back, it takes about 2 minutes to coat the trim. I'd imagine that other products that would create a similar slick surface would probably work.
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      06-04-2014, 08:36 AM   #78
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So I tried the gummi thing. After cleaning the seals and the door jambs, I rubbed a good wet coat all over the seals. Well it's worse than ever now! I don't know WTF is going on. I will try a couple more rounds of this treatment but it doesn't appear to work at all. I'm still unsure which of the seals is causing this exactly (there are an awful lot of seals around this door). I treated them all and it just made it worse.

As snj49er said there is also a felt-backed piece of seal that contacts the black glossy trim above the door (is this the "shadowline trim"?). Could be from that? Obviously I didn't treat the felt with gummi since it's not rubber. I will try some sealant on the trim and door jambs to see what happens...
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      06-04-2014, 08:42 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by menncars View Post
The 'official' method on fixing the problem. See attached. This tape is transparent and is . . .even more expensive. Find some BMW buddies and split the cost. $125 a roll. Jeez, made by 3M, priced by BMW
Thanks and good job on finding this thing. How successful could we be in bringing this service bulletin up to the attention of the dealer for the F30? Seems like the same issue. But I don't see BMW refunding them for the cost tho, so not gonna happen...

If it's clear tape I'm pretty sure another kind might do as well? Heck I might even try some regular painter's tape as a temp fix to see what happens.

But first I'll try the suggestion of cleaning the felt with the 3M adhesive remover, and then sealing the trim as suggested by snj49er....
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      06-04-2014, 10:05 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ft1330 View Post
As snj49er said there is also a felt-backed piece of seal that contacts the black glossy trim above the door (is this the "shadowline trim"?). Could be from that? Obviously I didn't treat the felt with gummi since it's not rubber. I will try some sealant on the trim and door jambs to see what happens...
"IF" you're experiencing the same issue that I did, you should be able to reproduce the noise by pressing in on the rubber where my finger is located in the 1st picture. Probably, the entire run over and around both doors is suspect.

I first applied gummi to the area labeled "Mating Surface" in the 2nd picture (not the felt) and I found no joy. The instant that I put a paint sealant on the BOTTOM surface of the shadowline trim, I never heard another creak. Maybe it's a combination of the 2 things, but it appeared to me that, like the Teflon solution, the friction between the rubber and shadowline trim needs to be lowered so that they can easily slide past each other as they flex.
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      06-04-2014, 11:21 AM   #81
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So I know this discussion has mainly focused around the creaking from the door seals, but I just wanted to share my experience with another creaking sound in the car. Mine was coming from the rear dome light. Any time I hear the sound, I can reach back and push up on the dome light, and the sound is eliminated. I took my car in for the noise, and at first they tried to add some foam to the light surround, but it actually made it worse. So they ordered me an entire new dome light and installed it last week. It's better, but still not completely gone. Anyone else have the creaking noise coming from the rear dome light?
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      06-04-2014, 02:31 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snj49er View Post
"IF" you're experiencing the same issue that I did, you should be able to reproduce the noise by pressing in on the rubber where my finger is located in the 1st picture. Probably, the entire run over and around both doors is suspect.

I first applied gummi to the area labeled "Mating Surface" in the 2nd picture (not the felt) and I found no joy. The instant that I put a paint sealant on the BOTTOM surface of the shadowline trim, I never heard another creak. Maybe it's a combination of the 2 things, but it appeared to me that, like the Teflon solution, the friction between the rubber and shadowline trim needs to be lowered so that they can easily slide past each other as they flex.
Thanks for the helpful post. I will try pushing on it and see what happens. I did apply gummi precisely where you point the mating surface arrow (and pretty much anywhere else that resembled rubber)
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      06-04-2014, 03:10 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snj49er View Post
"IF" you're experiencing the same issue that I did, you should be able to reproduce the noise by pressing in on the rubber where my finger is located in the 1st picture. Probably, the entire run over and around both doors is suspect.

I first applied gummi to the area labeled "Mating Surface" in the 2nd picture (not the felt) and I found no joy. The instant that I put a paint sealant on the BOTTOM surface of the shadowline trim, I never heard another creak. Maybe it's a combination of the 2 things, but it appeared to me that, like the Teflon solution, the friction between the rubber and shadowline trim needs to be lowered so that they can easily slide past each other as they flex.
I have the same symptoms. By "paint sealant" do you mean wax?
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      06-04-2014, 03:29 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by ft1330 View Post
Thanks for the helpful post. I will try pushing on it and see what happens. I did apply gummi precisely where you point the mating surface arrow (and pretty much anywhere else that resembled rubber)
I'll be interested to hear how you make out. If I'm right on the cause of the creaking, it seems to be an "unfortunate" choice of adjacent materials. At least I was able to make it stop before I had to endure my wife rolling her eyes at me as I asked her to drive around with me in the back seat.

IIRC, the window trim on my '84 Audi 5000 was far better from a functional and aesthetic standpoint. I mean really, does someone think that it looks good to have more than an inch of rubber between the glass and body trim?
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      06-04-2014, 03:48 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by snowghost View Post
I have the same symptoms. By "paint sealant" do you mean wax?
A paint sealant is not the same as wax, but I don't doubt that wax may help to correct the problem...I haven't tried it. After I read the service bulletin that referred to Teflon tape as a solution, it seemed to me that anything that would impart an extremely slick surface to the shadowline trim would be a step in the right direction.

This is the actual product that I used: http://www.detailedimage.com/Blackfi...P205/16-oz-S1/ If wax was all that I had available, I'd give that a shot before spending any money.
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      06-04-2014, 09:47 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dL.
Can somebody who got it fixed by dealership via the Teflon Tape method take a picture of how it looks like? I am considering letting the dealership do that if it doesn't look awfully ugly.

Thanks!

dL
dL, I had my car into the dealership last week for the Teflon Tape fix, seems to be working. I'll post pics in the next couple of days, the tape used is black, and you can barely notice it if you know what you're looking for, if you don't know, you'd never know it was there.
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      06-09-2014, 12:15 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snj49er View Post
"IF" you're experiencing the same issue that I did, you should be able to reproduce the noise by pressing in on the rubber where my finger is located in the 1st picture. Probably, the entire run over and around both doors is suspect.

I first applied gummi to the area labeled "Mating Surface" in the 2nd picture (not the felt) and I found no joy. The instant that I put a paint sealant on the BOTTOM surface of the shadowline trim, I never heard another creak. Maybe it's a combination of the 2 things, but it appeared to me that, like the Teflon solution, the friction between the rubber and shadowline trim needs to be lowered so that they can easily slide past each other as they flex.
Dude you're a genius! I used Xymol Cleaner Wax all along the metal that looks to contact the felt area. No more creaking!!!!
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      06-09-2014, 03:58 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TN_3 View Post
So I know this discussion has mainly focused around the creaking from the door seals, but I just wanted to share my experience with another creaking sound in the car. Mine was coming from the rear dome light. Any time I hear the sound, I can reach back and push up on the dome light, and the sound is eliminated. I took my car in for the noise, and at first they tried to add some foam to the light surround, but it actually made it worse. So they ordered me an entire new dome light and installed it last week. It's better, but still not completely gone. Anyone else have the creaking noise coming from the rear dome light?
Me.

Drove me crazy for 3 weeks. First thing I did was get the dome light out of the car, disconnect it, then using a glue gun to epoxy the metal clips to the plastic dome light (clear the old glue first). While not affecting all cars, on mine the glue was very poorly applied so I needed to clean it off first.

Before putting the dome light back in. Tap the headliner and listen for a rattle. Surprise, surprise, a lose clip. That took 20 minutes but I finally tapped it out.

Here you go:
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=941943


Finally, silence, until the door creak a week ago.
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