[Cruise'n]

I have tonight started to install a dash cam into my new 340i

Was going to buy the BlackVue and didnt....

Ended up buying the iRoad V9 for much smaller, with HD front and Rear cameras ( not SD rear), and with events I have been told are not recorded over like the other. ( Blackvue records over )

Didnt need a Magic Power that used a cigarette plug to then conect to the unit that was bulky and not need, the iRoad just simply has three wires....

All functions and battery voltage is digitally set with the app.

(BAT+) Permanent.
(ACC+) Power when car used.
Ground....

I have installed the cameras front and rear, and wired the cables down from the from camera to under the glovebox....

I didnt think was wise to cut into the cables to the cieling lights for power and acc, and once I had run the cables down found only fuse boxes were in the boot and under the bonnet ( damn should have check and not presumed). All other cars I've owned have been in the front.

I FOUND A HIDDEN cigarette plug OUTLET under the glove box, this has power but does turn off after some time when the car is locked.
( great as I used to run the power to my mobile phone wireless window phone holder to be able to charge the phone )

THis outler I guess this could be used as the (ACC) but need constant power.
( with a delay off )

Does anybody know the location of a safe to use, none Cambus power connection in the front dash of a 2016 340i F30 3 Series???????

[Versipellis]

I mean, you could still run the cable to the fusebox, you just need a longer wire - tuck it into the panels or run it along the floor. That's what I did with my friend's F36 dash cam install.

[Emilim]

Just get a Power Magic Pro and run everything to the trunk fuse box. Way cleaner with zero visible wires. Takes like 10 minutes.

[Cruise'n]

Hello.

The power magic pro is not needed as is a add-on device for the older tech used with Blackvue I believe, as this iRoad has it all built in.
You can adjust power cut-off etc all via a mobile phone app. So no need to find a spot for the box and then plug into it, always worries me not being hard wired of high resistive joints.

I did find an easier way in the end than to run to the trunk under boot floor.

When you remove the cover under the glove box and then fuse box under the bonnet, you can simply run a cable through as in these photos, the inner fuses are all 12+ permanent, the outter fuses are all Accessories when the car shuts down after preset delay.

Simply installed new fuses into spare slots in the fusebox that were not being used.

[Cruise'n]

Looking from the under bonnet. you can see the front right of the part removed there is a small clip, this you press in to remove, there is also one more on the left rear side. Simple to lift with NO force and can completely remove with free access to poke throught the soft plastic puller rod.

Look from passenger side under glovebox.
Removed the screws from underneath for access.

[Cruise'n]

Wiring that is run behind the cover that is around the front windscreen camera.

Cable run is throught roof lining and taped down with gaffa tape to prevent many movement to ensure no rattles.

Photo showing path that is easy and open.

Rear window brake light.

Position of camera, up high and cant see blue light while driving and missed by the electric rear screen blind too.

[Cruise'n]

Rear blind in up position

Rear blind doesnt effect the camera

[Cruise'n]

[attach]1411830

[Cruise'n]

Wiring front from camera across inside the roof lining. Then down the pillar and into under the glovebox and straight to the fuse box.

[etinifni]

Why not try what was done here?

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=974007

[Cruise'n]

Always safer to have its own circuit that to tap into another.

If the camera has a fault that is unlikely but possible as exposed cables could be weakened by UV light over item and then insulation would brake and fuse the ground and positive together and wanted a lowest current fuse to protect the circuit as the cable would not be thick enought to trip larger thermal fuses.

Also if blows it will not knock out anything else.

I did think of tapping into a existing circuit but needed 12 volt and Accessories and didnt want any chance to have issues with cambus or anything else.

Those connectors uses reduce the crosectional area of cables and I have seen many high resistive joints and melted cables with them in the past on several cars, I would prefer to splice and solder into a cable then insulate.

Was tempting but didn't take too long to run two dedicated circuits.

[etinifni]

Originally Posted by theseanofsydney

Always safer to have its own circuit that to tap into another.

If the camera has a fault that is unlikely but possible as exposed cables could be weakened by UV light over item and then insulation would brake and fuse the ground and positive together and wanted a lowest current fuse to protect the circuit as the cable would not be thick enought to trip larger thermal fuses.

Also if blows it will not knock out anything else.

I did think of tapping into a existing circuit but needed 12 volt and Accessories and didnt want any chance to have issues with cambus or anything else.

Those connectors uses reduce the crosectional area of cables and I have seen many high resistive joints and melted cables with them in the past on several cars, I would prefer to splice and solder into a cable then insulate.

Was tempting but didn't take too long to run two dedicated circuits.

Does your camera setup have capacitors or batteries?

[Cruise'n]

Super Capacitors so when in a accident the camera will continue to roll even if there is no power, batteries in my past camera have fried in the Australian sun, and didnt last long, the super capacitors can handle better I am hopeful. Only time it tell....

[etinifni]

Originally Posted by theseanofsydney

Super Capacitors so when in a accident the camera will continue to roll even if there is no power, batteries in my past camera have fried in the Australian sun, and didnt last long, the super capacitors can handle better I am hopeful. Only time it tell....

Good, I was going to suggest not going with a unit with internal batteries.

[etinifni]

I found this forum to be a great resource for all things dash camera related:

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/

I ordered one of these to wire up the camera in my wife's Accord so that it can be set to receive constant power during times that the car is parked in congested areas since the camera I installed has a g sensor.

https://shop.pier28.com/index.php/pa...-wire-kit.html

[Cruise'n]

Originally Posted by etinifni

I found this forum to be a great resource for all things dash camera related:

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/

I ordered one of these to wire up the camera in my wife's Accord so that it can be set to receive constant power during times that the car is parked in congested areas since the camera I installed has a g sensor.

https://shop.pier28.com/index.php/pa...-wire-kit.html

I'll have a read of that link tonight thanks.

Sounds like the best option with power when parked, as when driving you have insurance for repairs in accidents, but when parked and somebody damages your car and takes off, with no camera your paying for sure. With a camaera hopefully they are

[Emilim]

I stand by my original assessment. Wiring to the trunk fuse box requires absolutely no removal of any trim materials and is a 10 minute job at most. There is enough space back there to accommodate even a backup cellink battery if you want and the best part is the whole set-up is contained inside the cabin. Using the engine compartment fusebox is always less ideal as you're going through the firewall and your wiring is exposed to the vibration, dust, and other elements out there.

[XKxRome0ox]

Originally Posted by theseanofsydney

Cable run is throught roof lining and taped down with gaffa tape to prevent many movement to ensure no rattles.

wow... this is way too much work to install a dash cam

[Cruise'n]

Originally Posted by Versipellis

I mean, you could still run the cable to the fusebox, you just need a longer wire - tuck it into the panels or run it along the floor. That's what I did with my friend's F36 dash cam install.

Originally Posted by Emilim

I stand by my original assessment. Wiring to the trunk fuse box requires absolutely no removal of any trim materials and is a 10 minute job at most. There is enough space back there to accommodate even a backup cellink battery if you want and the best part is the whole set-up is contained inside the cabin. Using the engine compartment fusebox is always less ideal as you're going through the firewall and your wiring is exposed to the vibration, dust, and other elements out there.

All looks messy but all clip out parts.

From the cabin they have a area big as a first through to the fusebox.

Yes would next time run as you suggested.

As the battery post is the best place for power when car is asleep and the computer will not throw a fault. None genuine aftermarket device installed. Ooops.
On the battery post before the amp meter.

Though the original install was perfect and no cable seen.

Saved the day when a guy stopped at the lights then bumped into the back. Was uninsured and no issues at all.