[jaximointhecut]

Originally Posted by jaximointhecut

I did not. Thank you for your reply. The vendor just messaged me saying to do the same. Fingers crossed, time to get the hands dirty again lol

Thanks again for the tip. So I swapped the optic cables, and the vehicle info is showing up again on my dash and iDrive. The ONLY thing is the sound is just a bit off. On iDrive the radio quality is a bit poor and for CarPlay the bass/treble is very high. I have to lower it very much on the main audio settings. The vendor sent me over this audio volume screen shot (picture 4), but on my iDrive it shows up as not being able to edit anything. It does let me select the aux though. I'm not sure what else I can do… any ideas? I can live with this for sure. Just a little less than ideal with the distortion.

[DerIs]

Originally Posted by DerIs

To report back and say a thank you!

Tried your steps, doing the same, but with wired AA. P30 Pro.

Seems to be working and BT routed via car, for music and calls. At least the phone is confirming that. Didn't try much yet, but music seemed way clearer.

Now I will try to fix some disconnection issues I'm facing right now, which I believe are related to a USB mount I installed the other day. Already changed cable USB type C from the USB mount to the phone. Rebooted phone. Updated MCU to latest version. And now I'm testing connected directly via USB cable type C to the MMI female USB cable. If I don't have the same disconnections (going back to the MMI menu) it means the USB mount I added it's the one at fault.

As an extra note, I believe the music sound is identical as before, I guess sound it's going via USB cable, when using wired AA. Still pending to try AA wireless (beta) on my Android 10.

And for the disconnection problems I was having, it's the USB mount I installed, confirmed. Will try with a replacement.

[aohus]

does the andream CIC revision B support being able to play BT audio through the combox after some coding changes (thereby eliminating the need to connecet the aux cable from the MMI unit to the armrest aux port)?

from my understanding other boxes have the ability to do this after making some coding changes below:

3000 HMI
CDMM_AUX_HU
aktiv

3003 TELEFON_TELEMATIK_ONLINE
CDMM_USB_AUDIO_SINGLE
nicht_aktiv

CDMM_USB_AUDIO_DOUBLE_0B
nicht_aktiv

[Elimination]

Hi all,

I just bought a Andream Box with label CICHL and I just cannot get it to work in my F11 5-series from 03-2011. I have the CIC system still and we tried 2 different modules, and 2 different cable sets. So that (most probably) rules out any defective items from Andream.

We tried all 3 connection methods (cable route & dipswitches) as displayed in the attachment, and no luck.
When we try method #3 (which is supposedly for F10/F11 with CIC), for the idrive wiring harness, if we only connect the large connector, the iDrive controller doesn't work. As soon as we also connect the 2 smaller (4 pins I believe) connectors together, the iDrive controller works. The mechanic working with me told me that the smaller connectors are not supposed to be linked, as they are intended for another iDrive controller type. Maybe something is wrong in that aspect.

What does work:
- CIC works as it's supposed to
- When connecting iPhone via USB connector, it finds the Carplay functionality

Just when long-pressing the menu button or the backbutton has no result (also no 'clicking' sound comes from the MMI unit)
Do you guys have any idea in what direction I must look to solve this issue?

[Chaton78]

FYI. Still pending issue but if it happens to you...

My device is from Aliexpress, unknown HW, 3.1.2.gpe.b, MCU 20.22 something. It was installed in April and working perfectly with my iphone.

I came back from vacation. The car have been sitting in the driveway for two weeks. Battery was old. Anyway, I cranked the engine and drove for 100m. Car was still on the NBT screen and the MMI was booting. It "tried" to switch to carplay. Suddenly, NBT screen went black and turned off (black to really black).

The NBT started to reboot every 30 seconds (dvd drive clicking). I tried to unplug the battery to reset it. I even changed the battery because it was old and it can cause gremlins to appear. It solved nothing. I've plugged in Ista and E-Sys.. Kombi, NBT and AMP were showing red. It could not communicate with them. Not a good feeling.

I've disassembled again the dash. Pulled the NBT, it was still extremely hot. I've removed the quadlock t-harness, plugged back the original cable back in with the fiber optic cables. I did not even move back the screen cable. The system is back alive.

So my next step, it is remove the glove box and unplug the MMI box. It smells like something is shorting the bus. It will check if the harness was damaged or something obvious blew up in the box, a cap?

Don't hesitate to share your ideas...

[RAAF12]

Originally Posted by DerIs

As an extra note, I believe the music sound is identical as before, I guess sound it's going via USB cable, when using wired AA. Still pending to try AA wireless (beta) on my Android 10.

And for the disconnection problems I was having, it's the USB mount I installed, confirmed. Will try with a replacement.

Wireless AA on Android 10 means developer mode
Then Dev settings and choose

Wireless projection
Video focus
Works OK on a 3 year old Oneplus 9

[DerIs]

Originally Posted by RAAF12

Wireless AA on Android 10 means developer mode
Then Dev settings and choose

Wireless projection
Video focus
Works OK on a 3 year old Oneplus 9

How will you go about the part connecting to the MMI?

I've managed to enable that on the phone.

What's the carplay wifi password? And I can't remember how could you give data to the phone, as the wifi you connect to, it's the MMI one and that won't provide internet connection.

[ggrcrash]

Originally Posted by DerIs

How will you go about the part connecting to the MMI?

I've managed to enable that on the phone.

What's the carplay wifi password? And I can't remember how could you give data to the phone, as the wifi you connect to, it's the MMI one and that won't provide internet connection.

Technically there isn't a WiFi password. You have to set MMI device to link Bluetooth AND WiFi then it will just connect. You might need to connect by wire, the first time if your phone isn't a late Samsung or Google pixel phone, I remember reading something about that before, unfortunately I can't recall exactly where I read it.

[eltech]

What phones are compatible with Android Auto wireless?
Wireless Android Auto is supported on any phone running Android 11 or newer with 5GHz Wi-Fi built-in.
...
Samsung:
Galaxy S8/S8+
Galaxy S9/S9+
Galaxy S10/S10+
Galaxy Note 8.
Galaxy Note 9.
Galaxy Note 10.

And now it's any phone with android 11 and 5GHz wifi support

[bedou974]

Hello,

Just quick thank you for this thread, I read all the pages and ended up ordered this one : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...17bf4c4dCThlUh

SDK:25.0.0.7.0.0.2.0
CUST: B2_V1.5.9
MCU: 21.6.7.116
HW Version: BMW_NBT2_1_G

I have a Mini Cooper F60 2017 no nav, no touch, 6.5 screen and everything works great! I was scared at first because it came with the AUX cable and I didn't understand because AUX, from what I understood here is only used for CIC, so I didn't plug it and I still have the AUX Front and everything works great still.

From the version number do you know if there is an update for this model ?

THank you

[birillo_79]

I could not read all the posts on this topic so apologies if this has been discussed already, but I wanted to give you an update on Bavarian Automotive. I bought my NBT box earlier this year. Seller has been responsive in giving info before purchase and as I received the box without instructions he send me the pdf in a matter of minutes. I am now in contact with him to sort out a "problem" (see below) and again they are on it.

Only note - the supplier states in the instructions that any unauthorised software update will void the warranty.

Said that - I can recommend this company.
For the sake of understanding the software version, please find the screenshot of the SW as out of the box (purchase Mar21)
I think the software is pretty old. Has the reverse camera menu, but audio is all over the place in the main menu.

the "problem"
I tried to search in the discussion, despite finding someone mentioning a "funny car image" I could not find any info. I have installed a reverse camera, everything works but the radar shows a mercedes SLK Any info on how to change the image into a mini F56?
Given the warrenty clause, I have addressed this issue to the seller too and I am expecting him to provide direction (likely to be a SW update), unless you have other tips.

[Fishypops]

Please help. Wife acceptance factor at all time low.

Currently, the following problems exist;
1. When getting in the vehicle, the MMI auto displays Waze. But not able to access Waze on phone.
2. Phone audio is not good.

Using Android phone ( Pixel 4G + 3XL).
BMW i3 with standard (basic) sound system.

Question: what are the settings that I should have on my phone and MMI to achieve the best result;
Bluetooth ?
WiFi ?

I think that I would prefer to simply use Autolink exclusively, if that makes life simpler.

Please advise me and help save my marriage.

[bedou974]

Originally Posted by Fishypops

Please help. Wife acceptance factor at all time low.

Currently, the following problems exist;
1. When getting in the vehicle, the MMI auto displays Waze. But not able to access Waze on phone.
2. Phone audio is not good.

Using Android phone ( Pixel 4G + 3XL).
BMW i3 with standard (basic) sound system.

Question: what are the settings that I should have on my phone and MMI to achieve the best result;
Bluetooth ?
WiFi ?

I think that I would prefer to simply use Autolink exclusively, if that makes life simpler.

Please advise me and help save my marriage.

For waze i think it's normal, i can't use it on my phone too when in carplay

for the music go to settings and disable loudness and then make all your settings on the equalizer and on the stock car menu

[BavarianMotorWorks]

So I'm hoping someone can help with two minor issues I'm having. I have the Andream unit for the CIC system.

1. When I get into my car and start it up either one of two things will happen. The CIC system will boot up normally and wireless Carplay will be connected and the Andream MMI will automatically come up and display carplay. But there are times where the CIC system will boot and just stay stuck on the BMW GUI. And my iDrive controller will actually not work either. As soon I long press the menu button the iDrive works again. And if I long press again it will go right into Andream and Wireless Carplay. So I know my phone was connected already during this time I'm just wondering why there are times the system is stuck on BMW GUI and I need to long press the menu button to get iDrive back and once more to get into Andream.

2. And I'm not sure if this is an Andream issue or something else but there are times where I'll go into Pandora and there is no audio. If I switch to a different audio app like spotify or iheart radio it will play audio fine. If I switch back to Pandora audio is perfectly fine.

Hope someone can help!

[S133py]

Originally Posted by bedou974

Hello,

Just quick thank you for this thread, I read all the pages and ended up ordered this one : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...17bf4c4dCThlUh

SDK:25.0.0.7.0.0.2.0
CUST: B2_V1.5.9
MCU: 21.6.7.116
HW Version: BMW_NBT2_1_G

I have a Mini Cooper F60 2017 no nav, no touch, 6.5 screen and everything works great! I was scared at first because it came with the AUX cable and I didn't understand because AUX, from what I understood here is only used for CIC, so I didn't plug it and I still have the AUX Front and everything works great still.

From the version number do you know if there is an update for this model ?

THank you

Based on the CUST version you have an Andream B2-Version. Your software seems to be newer than that of the first page, but I recall seeing a link to updates a few pages back, but think it was to the same version you currently have.


I know the first page links needs some maintenance again, there are a few newer links that are not on there yet. Firefly1337 has probably been a bit busy.

[bedou974]

Originally Posted by BavarianMotorWorks

So I'm hoping someone can help with two minor issues I'm having. I have the Andream unit for the CIC system.

1. When I get into my car and start it up either one of two things will happen. The CIC system will boot up normally and wireless Carplay will be connected and the Andream MMI will automatically come up and display carplay. But there are times where the CIC system will boot and just stay stuck on the BMW GUI. And my iDrive controller will actually not work either. As soon I long press the menu button the iDrive works again. And if I long press again it will go right into Andream and Wireless Carplay. So I know my phone was connected already during this time I'm just wondering why there are times the system is stuck on BMW GUI and I need to long press the menu button to get iDrive back and once more to get into Andream.

2. And I'm not sure if this is an Andream issue or something else but there are times where I'll go into Pandora and there is no audio. If I switch to a different audio app like spotify or iheart radio it will play audio fine. If I switch back to Pandora audio is perfectly fine.

Hope someone can help!

maybe try to to update the software ?

[BavarianMotorWorks]

Originally Posted by bedou974

maybe try to to update the software ?

Well yes I have tried many software versions and they all result in the same behavior.

I'm just wondering if it's "normal". Since both issues aren't "huge" issues I know I can live with it. The biggest thing for me was stability and it works really well without any crashes or any random reboots.

It just takes an extra button press when I first get into my car to get to Andream.

I just want to know from anyone else if they experience the same? I'm wondering if it has something to do with when the BMW displays the iDrive notification vs. when it doesn't.

[bedou974]

Originally Posted by S133py

Based on the CUST version you have an Andream B2-Version. Your software seems to be newer than that of the first page, but I recall seeing a link to updates a few pages back, but think it was to the same version you currently have.


I know the first page links needs some maintenance again, there are a few newer links that are not on there yet. Firefly1337 has probably been a bit busy.

thanks, yes I noticed that I didn't see anyone with this firmware yet.

I Noticed one problem tho, when I back up if I stop the car the screen stay on the camera and when I press menu it goes back to the defaut screen and no way to get back into the MMI without turning the engine off, but if I backup and then go forward for a bit the screen revert back to the MMi by itself.

[bedou974]

Originally Posted by breakitout

Long time lurker...

I have had my MMI box installed for about a year (thanks to this community!), but have been annoyed at the slow charging rate when my phone is plugged in. The wireless has never worked reliably for me, so I have always had my phone plugged in.

To overcome my frustration with the slow charging, I ended up designing a 15W USB C Charger (max 5V@3A) with data passthrough to use with the MMI setup that allows fast charging a phone and using Carplay/Android Auto at the same time.


Photo of the charger I designed.


Designed and printed a 3D enclosure out of PETG for it.


Repurposed the cigarette lighter in the passenger footwell for the 12V the charger needed and it made for a clean setup. (Before)


(After)


Using the 12V from the cigarette lighter and re-running the MMI USB cable to attach to the charger for data passthrough for a completed install.

I have some boards left over since there was a minimum order quantity when I was getting them assembled. Willing to give back to this community and give them away for free to anyone who'd like one. They aren't going to do anyone good collecting dust on my desk.

Hello, Do you have a diagram for that ? I would like to do the same thank you!

[chuy409]

So I have the andream cic version b. I tried updating the software and mcu. The software updated fine to 1.5.5. But once i updated the mcu to 21.1.28.10, It auto starts android auto fine. But the thing is i cant control anything except scrolling with the wheel. Holding menu button doesnt bring me back to cic. So i disconnect my phone from android auto and it goes back to cic but I can only scroll, cant click, cant press any of the shortcuts on the controller.

What happened? any help I would appreciate greatly

[Chaton78]

Originally Posted by Chaton78

FYI. Still pending issue but if it happens to you...

My device is from Aliexpress, unknown HW, 3.1.2.gpe.b, MCU 20.22 something. It was installed in April and working perfectly with my iphone.

I came back from vacation. The car have been sitting in the driveway for two weeks. Battery was old. Anyway, I cranked the engine and drove for 100m. Car was still on the NBT screen and the MMI was booting. It "tried" to switch to carplay. Suddenly, NBT screen went black and turned off (black to really black).

The NBT started to reboot every 30 seconds (dvd drive clicking). I tried to unplug the battery to reset it. I even changed the battery because it was old and it can cause gremlins to appear. It solved nothing. I've plugged in Ista and E-Sys.. Kombi, NBT and AMP were showing red. It could not communicate with them. Not a good feeling.

I've disassembled again the dash. Pulled the NBT, it was still extremely hot. I've removed the quadlock t-harness, plugged back the original cable back in with the fiber optic cables. I did not even move back the screen cable. The system is back alive.

So my next step, it is remove the glove box and unplug the MMI box. It smells like something is shorting the bus. It will check if the harness was damaged or something obvious blew up in the box, a cap?

Don't hesitate to share your ideas...

Found it.. for unkown reason... dip switch 2 was ON. I don't understand how it was working for 6 months.. I've turned it off.. now, it works.

[bedou974]

Originally Posted by Chaton78

Found it.. for unkown reason... dip switch 2 was ON. I don't understand how it was working for 6 months.. I've turned it off.. now, it works.

maybe you took a bump and it switch I see your are in Montreal too, on connait la qualité des routes ici ahah