[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by rgf30kid

Hey guys,

Bought bootmod3 today, have it running stage 1 93 oct on my n26 328xi. Was wondering if someone could shed light on the options available under "Config" when at the flash screen. I am honestly new to this and would love to understand what the options do with the available choices before I go fiddling.

For stage one, leave everything on OEM, save for the exhaust flap and speed limiter. I set the exhaust flap at open and speed limiter at off. Everything else is self explanatory, but doesn't need to be adjusted for a stage 1 car.

[shadowx360]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

For Stage 2 93, a little over 300whp. I'll have to track down the Dyno for that one.

Thanks in advance. I was told by BM3 that Stage 2 93 targets 16-17 psi which is a lot lower than 290whp@22psi with JB4. I've seen only 300whp for bootmod3 on here with a downpipe and larger turbos so not sure what's going on.

[rgf30kid]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

For stage one, leave everything on OEM, save for the exhaust flap and speed limiter. I set the exhaust flap at open and speed limiter at off. Everything else is self explanatory, but doesn't need to be adjusted for a stage 1 car.

Could you elaborate? The options aren't self-explanatory to me. Do I have to manually set them to OEM or will the flash have them set to that?

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by rgf30kid

Could you elaborate? The options aren't self-explanatory to me. Do I have to manually set them to OEM or will the flash have them set to that?

My apologies for the half-ass response. This is what happens when I try to post on my way out the door.

Exhaust Burble Type- This will control how many or how few burbles, cracks, pops, etc. you want to have coming from your exhaust. The tune will make slight adjustments depending on how you configure this setting. It is strongly recommended to leave this at OEM for a car with the stock downpipe and catalytic converter. This is because these burbles are caused by a little extra fuel combusting in the exhaust rather than in the engine, and the cat is not designed for this. However, even on the OEM setting, you will get a few burbles in the lower RPM range. This is normal and ok.

Cold Start (Cat Heating)- This will control whether or not you'd like to use the cold start cycle. In other words, when the engine is cold, the car will rev higher and idle higher for the first minute or so to warm up the cat. Some people choose to delete this feature when they remove the cat, because it is no longer necessary, and because cold starts without the cat are very loud. Leave this at OEM.

Cold Start RPM- This will control how high the car will rev and idle in the scenario described above. Leave this at OEM

Exhaust Flap (Sport)- This will control whether or not you want to open the small valve that closes off the outer most tailpipe. Our cars have a valve closing off the outermost tailpipe and you can choose, via this configurable, whether or not you'd like it to be open or closed. You will get a louder more aggressive crack on upshifts and more burbles with it open, but it does not make a huge difference. I leave it at open, but it is up to you

Speed Limiter (VMAX)- This will control whether or not you'd like to leave the factory speed limiter on. VMAX stands for Velocity Maximum. From the factory, the 328i is electronically limited to a top speed of 132mph. If you want to go faster than 132mph, you can turn this option off. If you don't plan to go faster than that, you can leave it on. It's up to you.

Catalytic Monitors (CEL)- This will control whether or not you want the car to display check engine lights (CELs) if the cat is not detected. When people replace the stock downpipe and thus remove the cat, it causes a check engine light. So, BM3 gives you the option to get rid of this check engine light as a convenience if you remove the cat. Leave this at OEM, as this option is only designed for people who remove the cat.

In order to configure these settings, go to my maps, select the map you'd like to configure, and on the top right you'll see a little red button with a gear and the work "Config" on it. Click on this and then click on the "select" button all the way to the right of the configurable options and configure how you'd like or how I recommended above. Then go to the bottom and hit save changes. This will redirect you back to the map page, and it will say the map is being processed or something like that. Wait about 2 minutes, refresh the page, and voila, you have your configured map and can flash it.

Regarding how they are configured if you don't change them at all, I assume they are all set to OEM from the start, but I am not 100% sure. You should go in and set them all to OEM or how you'd like them configured anyway, just for piece of mind.

I hope that helps!

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by shadowx360

Thanks in advance. I was told by BM3 that Stage 2 93 targets 16-17 psi which is a lot lower than 290whp@22psi with JB4. I've seen only 300whp for bootmod3 on here with a downpipe and larger turbos so not sure what's going on.

You're thinking of Stage 1. Stage 2 runs around 21psi. You also have to remember that it's not just about the boost being run. Timing/fueling is also important.

[rgf30kid]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

My apologies for the half-ass response. This is what happens when I try to post on my way out the door.

Exhaust Burble Type- This will control how many or how few burbles, cracks, pops, etc. you want to have coming from your exhaust. The tune will make slight adjustments depending on how you configure this setting. It is strongly recommended to leave this at OEM for a car with the stock downpipe and catalytic converter. This is because these burbles are caused by a little extra fuel combusting in the exhaust rather than in the engine, and the cat is not designed for this. However, even on the OEM setting, you will get a few burbles in the lower RPM range. This is normal and ok.

Cold Start (Cat Heating)- This will control whether or not you'd like to use the cold start cycle. In other words, when the engine is cold, the car will rev higher and idle higher for the first minute or so to warm up the cat. Some people choose to delete this feature when they remove the cat, because it is no longer necessary, and because cold starts without the cat are very loud. Leave this at OEM.

Cold Start RPM- This will control how high the car will rev and idle in the scenario described above. Leave this at OEM

Exhaust Flap (Sport)- This will control whether or not you want to open the small valve that closes off the outer most tailpipe. Our cars have a valve closing off the outermost tailpipe and you can choose, via this configurable, whether or not you'd like it to be open or closed. You will get a louder more aggressive crack on upshifts and more burbles with it open, but it does not make a huge difference. I leave it at open, but it is up to you

Speed Limiter (VMAX)- This will control whether or not you'd like to leave the factory speed limiter on. VMAX stands for Velocity Maximum. From the factory, the 328i is electronically limited to a top speed of 132mph. If you want to go faster than 132mph, you can turn this option off. If you don't plan to go faster than that, you can leave it on. It's up to you.

Catalytic Monitors (CEL)- This will control whether or not you want the car to display check engine lights (CELs) if the cat is not detected. When people replace the stock downpipe and thus remove the cat, it causes a check engine light. So, BM3 gives you the option to get rid of this check engine light as a convenience if you remove the cat. Leave this at OEM, as this option is only designed for people who remove the cat.

In order to configure these settings, go to my maps, select the map you'd like to configure, and on the top right you'll see a little red button with a gear and the work "Config" on it. Click on this and then click on the "select" button all the way to the right of the configurable options and configure how you'd like or how I recommended above. Then go to the bottom and hit save changes. This will redirect you back to the map page, and it will say the map is being processed or something like that. Wait about 2 minutes, refresh the page, and voila, you have your configured map and can flash it.

Regarding how they are configured if you don't change them at all, I assume they are all set to OEM from the start, but I am not 100% sure. You should go in and set them all to OEM or how you'd like them configured anyway, just for piece of mind.

I hope that helps!

Perfect, that explains everything. Thank you so much!

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by rgf30kid

Perfect, that explains everything. Thank you so much!

Happy to help

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

You're thinking of Stage 1. Stage 2 runs around 21psi. You also have to remember that it's not just about the boost being run. Timing/fueling is also important.

This actually a really interesting topic. I've been chatting with PTF for a while about Stage 1 targeting 20.85 psi, but MAP only getting to 17psi. Every stage 1 log I've seen shows MAP only getting to 17 and not hitting targets, and they even released an update after I mentioned it to them and it still didn't remedy the stage 1's inability to hit boost targets. But stage 2 cars seem to have no problem hitting boost targets assuming they're healthy. Kinda weird to me. I'm thinking that'll just be the way stage 1 is for now.

But yah, stage 1 will target 20 psi and only hit 17, stage 2 will target 21 psi and hit it too.

[Kraftwerk]

QQ - I've been running BM3 stage 1 for a couple of weeks with great performance. I recently added AFE filter and VRSF 5" IC, and it seems that the low end has a bit more lag now. Top end is still great. Is this a result of the IC install?

I'm throwing on my DP this weekend and moving up to stage 2, so I wanted to make sure all things were good to go before then.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Mission3

QQ - I've been running BM3 stage 1 for a couple of weeks with great performance. I recently added AFE filter and VRSF 5" IC, and it seems that the low end has a bit more lag now. Top end is still great. Is this a result of the IC install?

I'm throwing on my DP this weekend and moving up to stage 2, so I wanted to make sure all things were good to go before then.

FMIC might have hurt you on Stage 1.

[perryo91]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

This actually a really interesting topic. I've been chatting with PTF for a while about Stage 1 targeting 20.85 psi, but MAP only getting to 17psi. Every stage 1 log I've seen shows MAP only getting to 17 and not hitting targets, and they even released an update after I mentioned it to them and it still didn't remedy the stage 1's inability to hit boost targets. But stage 2 cars seem to have no problem hitting boost targets assuming they're healthy. Kinda weird to me. I'm thinking that'll just be the way stage 1 is for now.

But yah, stage 1 will target 20 psi and only hit 17, stage 2 will target 21 psi and hit it too.

Hey just wondering why do you have the cold start cycle kept on OEM if you have catless DPs...

There's no functional need for it.

[Kraftwerk]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

FMIC might have hurt you on Stage 1.

Thx. That's what I'm thinking too. I'm having the DP installed this week, so I'll have a better idea when running stag2.

[madmortar]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

FMIC might have hurt you on Stage 1.

Really?
A properly designed FMIC shouldn't give any noticable pressure drop, stock, stage 1 or higher. From what I understand at least.

I'd swap back to stock air filter and see if that changes anything to at least rule that out.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by perryo91

Hey just wondering why do you have the cold start cycle kept on OEM if you have catless DPs...

There's no functional need for it.

Did you quote the wrong post by mistake? I don't have a catless DP nor did I mention the cold start cycle.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

FMIC might have hurt you on Stage 1.

Really? How would an FMIC upgrade hurt a stage one car? I've been considering an FMIC for a while to continue running stage one with.

[perryo91]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

Did you quote the wrong post by mistake? I don't have a catless DP nor did I mention the cold start cycle.

Cold Start (Cat Heating)- This will control whether or not you'd like to use the cold start cycle. In other words, when the engine is cold, the car will rev higher and idle higher for the first minute or so to warm up the cat. Some people choose to delete this feature when they remove the cat, because it is no longer necessary, and because cold starts without the cat are very loud. Leave this at OEM.

Cold Start RPM- This will control how high the car will rev and idle in the scenario described above. Leave this at OEM

I'm referring to this, but if you don't have a catless DP then nevermind!

[shadowx360]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

You're thinking of Stage 1. Stage 2 runs around 21psi. You also have to remember that it's not just about the boost being run. Timing/fueling is also important.

I asked specifically stage 2 but they may have quoted me wrong.

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

This actually a really interesting topic. I've been chatting with PTF for a while about Stage 1 targeting 20.85 psi, but MAP only getting to 17psi. Every stage 1 log I've seen shows MAP only getting to 17 and not hitting targets, and they even released an update after I mentioned it to them and it still didn't remedy the stage 1's inability to hit boost targets. But stage 2 cars seem to have no problem hitting boost targets assuming they're healthy. Kinda weird to me. I'm thinking that'll just be the way stage 1 is for now.

But yah, stage 1 will target 20 psi and only hit 17, stage 2 will target 21 psi and hit it too.

Maybe the psi loss is from the lack of upgraded FMIC and downpipe?

[bebe_rossi]

I run map 4.1 and hit 21+ psi on stage 1 93
Try it out, it's fresh and it's goood!

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by perryo91

Cold Start (Cat Heating)- This will control whether or not you'd like to use the cold start cycle. In other words, when the engine is cold, the car will rev higher and idle higher for the first minute or so to warm up the cat. Some people choose to delete this feature when they remove the cat, because it is no longer necessary, and because cold starts without the cat are very loud. Leave this at OEM.

Cold Start RPM- This will control how high the car will rev and idle in the scenario described above. Leave this at OEM

I'm referring to this, but if you don't have a catless DP then nevermind!

Ohh that's this thread Thought we were in another thread... Yah I don't have a catless DP. But you're right no point in having the Cold Start Cycle on if you're catless unless you want the loud cold start.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

Really? How would an FMIC upgrade hurt a stage one car? I've been considering an FMIC for a while to continue running stage one with.

Because if the car isn't tuned to support it, all that new, extra space isn't accounted for and essentially takes longer to spool/fill the boost chain. Imagine filling a 10 gal bucket at 1 gal/sec and then you upgrade to a 15 gal bucket but remain at 1 gal/sec.

[madmortar]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Because if the car isn't tuned to support it, all that new, extra space isn't accounted for and essentially takes longer to spool/fill the boost chain. Imagine filling a 10 gal bucket at 1 gal/sec and then you upgrade to a 15 gal bucket but remain at 1 gal/sec.

Yes indeed. But I still think a properly designed FMIC should see very little pressure drop, while running stock boost. Nothing that you should really notice. If im wrong, so be it. But i still think he should go back and swap OEM paper air filter to see if that caused any issue, as I heard sometimes it can.

https://www.goapr.com/products/testi...tercooler.html

Scroll down to where they are talking about fin design.

[shadowx360]

Originally Posted by madmortar

Yes indeed. But I still think a properly designed FMIC should see very little pressure drop, while running stock boost. Nothing that you should really notice. If im wrong, so be it. But i still think he should go back and swap OEM paper air filter to see if that caused any issue, as I heard sometimes it can.

https://www.goapr.com/products/testi...tercooler.html

Scroll down to where they are talking about fin design.

Yes, larger FMIC means more fins for the air, meaning more surface drag and turbulent flow. But that's not what he's talking about - the much larger FMIC has a much higher volume and thus basic ideal gas equation means you have to pump in a lot more air to pressurize it = more time to pressurize it = low end lag. The other part of the ideal gas equation is temperature - stock FMIC heats up quickly and temperature increases the pressure as well. Combine all that with the increased turbulence and stage 1 may not provide enough boost for the upgraded FMIC.