[valetudo81]

I am opening this thread in hopes of getting N20 engine guys who have hit the 300+ RWHP mark to help out the community. I myself am looking to get around the 350 RWHP mark. I am looking for a proven and reliable set up and tune to meet this goal. Rather than throw money at various mods in an attempt to make it there I am hoping we can all communicate what got us there.

What is your current RWHP?

What mods do you have?

What tune do you have?

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by valetudo81

I am opening this thread in hopes of getting N20 engine guys who have hit the 300+ RWHP mark to help out the community. I myself am looking to get around the 350 RWHP mark. I am looking for a proven and reliable set up and tune to meet this goal. Rather than throw money at various mods in an attempt to make it there I am hoping we can all communicate what got us there.

What is your current RWHP?

What mods do you have?

What tune do you have?

I know Stubok and a few others are in here.

Currently, I'm around the 270whp mark. My new turbo is going in today and as soon as the new tune is completed (I'll say two weeks), I'm going to be pushing ~300whp/~340wtq. All the mods I have are in my signature ATM. Tune I have right now is through PTF, but HC Performance will be doing the new one.

I read in the other thread that you were looking for reliable tune without having to build the engine and what I listed above is the safe zone for that. Stubok is running a similar tune in that zone. The issue with our platform is rods are NOT forged. Because of this, under heat and stress, they tend to break. Studying historical failures of this sort, it's TYPICALLY limited to the track where there is constant, high heat and high torque (400 range). Our platform reaches peak torque really early and that sudden jolt of power can cause them to break. So, to hit 350whp RELIABLY without engine work is slim. Stubok recently installed an oil cooler (To augment the current water/oil heat exchanger) and I, too, would like to experiment with that to bring down our engine temps. Our hope in this is to bring down the engine temps (Which means rod temps) and achieve two things: Push more power through the engine AND push it through safely and reliably. In the meantime, if you want to safely get above 350whp and not worry about the rods breaking, you will need to get forged ones. CP Carillo offers a kit for this. While you're in there though, you might as well start replacing other parts for the sake of not having to do it later down the road.

[carbon428i]

I'm not sure how much HP I'm pushing but I have a 2014 428i with a VRSF Downpipe, ER Chargepipe, K&N Drop In, and JB4 Map 2 (EWG) also have a 435i muffler retrofit, not sure if that adds anything by reducing back pressure.

Anybody know what kind of numbers I might have?

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by carbon428i

I'm not sure how much HP I'm pushing but I have a 2014 428i with a VRSF Downpipe, ER Chargepipe, K&N Drop In, and JB4 Map 2 (EWG) also have a 435i muffler retrofit, not sure if that adds anything by reducing back pressure.

Anybody know what kind of numbers I might have?

You're probably 280+ at the crank.

[carbon428i]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

You're probably 280+ at the crank.

How much at the wheels?

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by carbon428i

How much at the wheels?

240-250. That's conservative. Very well could be higher ofc.

[rjd_F30]

I'm probably not the best guy to ask (mods in signature) but I feel like 350whp would be hard to achieve reliably without getting forged internals, as BunkerJ said. at that point you're looking at almost 400 crank, which is quite a lot to expect from a car that was already boost heavy from factory making 240 crank. just my 2 cents.

Originally Posted by carbon428i

I'm not sure how much HP I'm pushing but I have a 2014 428i with a VRSF Downpipe, ER Chargepipe, K&N Drop In, and JB4 Map 2 (EWG) also have a 435i muffler retrofit, not sure if that adds anything by reducing back pressure.

Anybody know what kind of numbers I might have?

I would say 300+ crank. Dinan dynoed 290 crank with no mods other than a sport tuner that does nothing but add 4psi of boost. so with JB4 and the DP, that'd be my guess.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

I'm probably not the best guy to ask (mods in signature) but I feel like 350whp would be hard to achieve reliably without getting forged internals, as BunkerJ said. at that point you're looking at almost 400 crank, which is quite a lot to expect from a car that was already boost heavy from factory making 240 crank. just my 2 cents.

Exactly. I'm going to cap around 300whp, which will be ~360 at the crank. The cars that did break had about 400wtq and were on the track, where the high heat and sudden torque stretched and broke them. I think that 350wtq is a safe number if you aren't tracking it and just doing runs.

[carbon428i]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

I'm probably not the best guy to ask (mods in signature) but I feel like 350whp would be hard to achieve reliably without getting forged internals, as BunkerJ said. at that point you're looking at almost 400 crank, which is quite a lot to expect from a car that was already boost heavy from factory making 240 crank. just my 2 cents.

I would say 300+ crank. Dinan dynoed 290 crank with no mods other than a sport tuner that does nothing but add 4psi of boost. so with JB4 and the DP, that'd be my guess.

What would I need to hit 300 HP at the wheels?
My next mod will probably be an intercooler, but correct me if I'm wrong that'll only help keeps temperatures down and hold boost for longer.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by carbon428i

What would I need to hit 300 HP at the wheels?
My next mod will probably be an intercooler, but correct me if I'm wrong that'll only help keeps temperatures down and hold boost for longer.

correct and correct about the intercooler. but, it also lowers IATs, and colder, denser air means more power. so to get to 300 wheel, I would recommend E85 first and foremost (which will require an upgraded fuel pump), our engines seem to take quite well to it. also an intercooler like you said, proper flash tune, and perhaps meth if you want to go that route. obviously, you could also go upgraded turbo, but that's quite a process not many are willing to get into. all the above will get you much closer to the 300whp mark.

[carbon428i]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

correct and correct about the intercooler. but, it also lowers IATs, and colder, denser air means more power. so to get to 300 wheel, I would recommend E85 first and foremost (which will require an upgraded fuel pump), our engines seem to take quite well to it. also an intercooler like you said, proper flash tune, and perhaps meth if you want to go that route. obviously, you could also go upgraded turbo, but that's quite a process not many are willing to get into. all the above will get you much closer to the 300whp mark.

All that just to get 300hp? Damn, might as well stick with what I have and save that money towards my next car :

Also, I heard N26 EWG is not recommended running E85. What is "meth"?

Maybe if i stack my JB4 with a flash tune I can get to 300whp?

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by carbon428i

All that just to get 300hp? Damn, might as well stick with what I have and save that money towards my next car :

Also, I heard N26 EWG is not recommended running E85. What is "meth"?

hahaha not what I meant, a combination of just a few might get you there. for example E85 and an intercooler could get you there. or e85 and a flash tune. perhaps an intercooler and flash tune. I did not word my original post correctly, apologies.

I haven't heard of anything about the EWG n26 not being compatible with E85, thats interesting, I'll have to look into it.

meth is short for water-methanol injection system. it is a system that injects water and methanol into the engine (I believe at the intake manifold) helping with cooling primarily, and thus making more power. it is very effective in lowering temps, and can help increase power. It requires a tank, nozzle and pump.

I have heard that stacking JB4 over a flash tune (bootmod3) can be effective. it may not be enough to get you to 300 wheel, but it will help in the right direction.

for your situation, if I'm judging it correctly, I would do an intercooler and a flash tune, stacking with JB4 is up to you. this will be price efficient, simple and should get you darn close to your goal ~330-340 crank, pretty close to 300 wheel.

I just said a lot, if anything is wrong, anyone please correct me accordingly.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by carbon428i

All that just to get 300hp? Damn, might as well stick with what I have and save that money towards my next car :

Also, I heard N26 EWG is not recommended running E85. What is "meth"?

Maybe if i stack my JB4 with a flash tune I can get to 300whp?

To hit 300whp reliably and safely, it's going to require FBO (CAI, FMIC, CP/TIC, Exhaust, Catless CP) and either going the E85 route or turbo. I was initially going the E85 route, which is perfectly fine so long as you get the upgraded LPFP, but decided on the upgraded turbo since mine was close to dying.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by carbon428i

All that just to get 300hp? Damn, might as well stick with what I have and save that money towards my next car :

Also, I heard N26 EWG is not recommended running E85. What is "meth"?

Maybe if i stack my JB4 with a flash tune I can get to 300whp?

Also, stacking JB4 and a flash is only good if you are doing meth.

[valetudo81]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Exactly. I'm going to cap around 300whp, which will be ~360 at the crank. The cars that did break had about 400wtq and were on the track, where the high heat and sudden torque stretched and broke them. I think that 350wtq is a safe number if you aren't tracking it and just doing runs.

Just curious what track racing you are speaking of. Is this autocross? or Drag? I wouldn't think drag racing it would allow for the rods to get as hot as you are referring to. Unless you are literally making back to back to back passes.

[valetudo81]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

hahaha not what I meant, a combination of just a few might get you there. for example E85 and an intercooler could get you there. or e85 and a flash tune. perhaps an intercooler and flash tune. I did not word my original post correctly, apologies.

I haven't heard of anything about the EWG n26 not being compatible with E85, thats interesting, I'll have to look into it.

meth is short for water-methanol injection system. it is a system that injects water and methanol into the engine (I believe at the intake manifold) helping with cooling primarily, and thus making more power. it is very effective in lowering temps, and can help increase power. It requires a tank, nozzle and pump.

I have heard that stacking JB4 over a flash tune (bootmod3) can be effective. it may not be enough to get you to 300 wheel, but it will help in the right direction.

for your situation, if I'm judging it correctly, I would do an intercooler and a flash tune, stacking with JB4 is up to you. this will be price efficient, simple and should get you darn close to your goal ~330-340 crank, pretty close to 300 wheel.

I just said a lot, if anything is wrong, anyone please correct me accordingly.

I'd read my other post concerning E85. I have heard some horror stories about using E85. I also know being that our cars are not designed for flex fuel that the ethanol content can reek havoc on our engines in places you might not expect.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by valetudo81

I'd read my other post concerning E85. I have heard some horror stories about using E85. I also know being that our cars are not designed for flex fuel that the ethanol content can reek havoc on our engines in places you might not expect.

you definitely need a tune that adjusts for E85 and a proper upgraded fuel pump, but the higher ignition point of ethanol reduces knock risk, which I would imagine most owners would be happy about. I guess it depends on the person. anything other than stock and you're risking worse reliability, but generally if done correctly, I don't think E85 is very harmful at all to our platform IMHO.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by valetudo81

Just curious what track racing you are speaking of. Is this autocross? or Drag? I wouldn't think drag racing it would allow for the rods to get as hot as you are referring to. Unless you are literally making back to back to back passes.

To me, when I talk of a track, I'm talking laps/autox. Drag is drag haha. But yes, typically they won't get hot enough on a track, but capping it around that area is still the safe bet right now.

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

you definitely need a tune that adjusts for E85 and a proper upgraded fuel pump, but the higher ignition point of ethanol reduces knock risk, which I would imagine most owners would be happy about. I guess it depends on the person. anything other than stock and you're risking worse reliability, but generally if done correctly, I don't think E85 is very harmful at all to our platform IMHO.

And yes. Most I've pushed this engine was E40, no issues. Upgraded LPFP and a proper tune is all you need. Heck, these things will do E30 no problem, but you will run out the stock pump quicker. The only ones that were being trashed was HIGH E mixes or pure, and not the correct LPFP. It leaned out the engine too much at the time.

[valetudo81]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

To me, when I talk of a track, I'm taking laps/autox. Drag is drag haha. But yes, typically they won't get hot enough on a track, but capping it around that area is still the safe bet right now.



And yes. Most I've pushed this engine was E40, no issues. Upgraded LPFP and a proper tune is all you need. Heck, these things will do E30 no problem, but you will run out the stock pump quicker. The only ones that were being trashed was HIGH E mixes or pure, and not the correct LPFP. It leaned out the engine too much at the time.

What LPFP are using? Could you send the brand and maybe site you bought it from.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by valetudo81

What LPFP are using? Could you send the brand and maybe site you bought it from.

I'm running Fuel-It!'s stage 2 LPFP. That's the common choice.

[nemobanks]

finally an informational thread

[valetudo81]

Originally Posted by nemobanks

finally an informational thread

Thanks! An appreciate would be nice. Trying to up my street cred lol.